Golf/GTI VII :: Inboard Front Light Seems Nonfunctional
Oct 9, 2014
Seems that on my GTI S w/lighting the inner headlamps are completely nonfunctional. Just a tiny marker light in the center with headlamps turned on. Even the inner 'hockey stick' LED tube is dark. My MK5 R32 also had non-working inner lights, but I stumbled upon a post that allowed the inner halogens to turn on with my high beams. I don't remember what I did, but it didn't require VAGCOM or hardware changes.
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I am having a really curious issue with the charging system on my 1999 Golf VR6. The battery will not charge and the alternator seems to be nonfunctional. While running the voltage at the battery starts normal but drops until the engine dies within 20 minutes. Over the last two days I have replaced the alternator, battery, and the battery grounding cable with no change in behavior. The exciter wire on the alternator is showing 9 volts when the vehicle is running and 0 when it is off. There is 1.6 ohms of resistance between the B+ terminal on the battery and the respective terminal on the alternator. There is 0.3 ohms of resistance between the B- battery terminal and the case of the alternator. My task for tomorrow is to trace the exciter wire back to the cluster and try to troubleshoot it there.
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The rubber on all my CV joint boots looks really good. Really amazingly good, I don't see anything that looks like a tear or split anywhere, or even anything looking like weak spots.
And yet ... Both of the inboard joints are leaking some grease that looks like it's coming right out under the lip of the boot at the fat end, beyond where it's clamped.
Is that common?Even though the noise I was checking into turned out to have a simpler explanation ....
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Today I noticed that the "click" sound on my turn signals was gone. I had someone watch the front and rear signals and none of them lit up if the clicking/dash light didn't either. Sometimes it would come on for 2-3 clicks, then stop. I could sorta force the issue by flipping the level back and forth, but it only worked for about half of the times I flipped the lever.
I tried the hazard switch. In this situation, the lights stay on (blinking), but they have an irregular cadence, like a heart murmur (just in signal form!). Click-a, click-a, cli-cli-cli-cka...etc.
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Our 2008 Prius' center display stopped working last night during our drive home. We are in the middle of a move from Oahu to now Big Island and are in a fairly remote location...
What might have caused this and how to fix it? We can still run AC via steering wheel, however, it's output volume (low or high) can no longer be adjusted. The radio is non functioning now as well.
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Just got my R32, used. I noticed that the previous owner had replaced the front side markers with clear ones. I checked that there are no bulbs inside, and they don't light up. Are they suppose to light up?
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Ok, I'm bit confused with how this remote works and how the factory set up is suppose to be.
1. Drove the car at night with light on "on"
2. Got out, turn the lights off
3. close the door
4. try to open the hatch, realized it was locked, so press the "open" button and i see my headlight turning back on?
I thought its suppose to stay off? I hate for the lights to turn on and off all the time when I press the switch.
When its suppose to turn on? I thought the light stays off when the light switch is on "off" position.
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I checked fuse 23 as many people have said to do and nothing is wrong with it. any other things I could check?
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My 2015 GTI, Gas engine, Manual Transmission ... Blinkers consistently give me an error code advising me that I need to get the front left, front right, or both blinkers checked and do a rapid flash and make them inop. Turning my car off and restarting usually clears this (almost always on the first try).
Also, the following problem has happened 3 times at varying degrees of severity when the temp has been -30F or colder. I've started my car to warm up, when I've come back to my car after 10-20 minutes I've had 2 warning lights on. One is the little yellow eng light, which my manual says is "Engine control malfunction". And the other is "EPC" which my manual says is also "Engine Control Malfunction", but also governs it to 20mph. After many restarts, or letting the vehicle sit, both lights will come off (not at the same time). 2 of the times there has been a burning rubber smell. Currently it has a battery blanket and battery pad (pad added by my husband after the first time I had the -30 issues, as the battery was low) and an oil pan heater.
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Have an SE DSG w/ PP and 3300 miles.. When under hard acceleration and the traction control light blinks on I sometimes hear a loud BANG from the front - the car pulls great and goes like hell - just wondering is this the VAQ at work - sounds like the car slamming into gear.. Other than that noise the car is a total blast to drive even though it is now too cold to really play with it..
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I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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Today a new light came up in the dash and no its not the snowflake of doom, went to the manual and found out one of my front light is dead. Did some research about a better alternative to oem bulbs and came to the conclusion Philips X-treme vision is the way to go.Silverstar Ultra also seem to be a good option but going with philips after reading reviews . Found some online in the states and on ebay but would like to get them local or at least online in canada.
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I ordered and replaced all the LEDs in the car and the license plate LEDs as well. Now I got that damn orange bulb on my dash. Anyway to clear it?
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I am installing Sparco Evo Seats, a custom Harness Bar and racing harnesses in my MK4 R32 and have questions about wiring of the airbag and seatbelt sensor. What do I need to do so the airbag light and seatbelt warning light do not come on.
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Just bought a new grill and I was trying to take off the original one but idk where the other bolts are apart from the 4 on top.
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Is this considered a warranty issue or will I have to pay out of pocket? If I fix it myself, will I have to find someone to VAG the warning light on the instrument panel?
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I have a stock GTI MKVI and now if I turn or cut the wheel sharp to park (all at slow speed) I get a ratcheting sound from up front. It is not the suspension "clunk" that some lowered cars get.
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I have an 04 Jetta that I recently had the trans replaced and ever since I picked it up there is a vibration in the front end. I took the car back and they said it was my DP hitting the cross member. They suspected mounts. I ordered and installed all 3 new mounts but the noise is still there and the trans mount looks crooked where the mount bolts to the trans bracket.
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Since i bagged my car and i didn't bought the swaybar end links to fix it it to my air struts, when i got it installed the swaybar got removed.
Now as my swaybar is off i might upgrade, my question is, Is an h&r front swaybar much better than an OEM one, and if yes should i pick a 26 or 28 mm o e (what's the difference, pipe size?)
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Yesterday i had taken my front grill off, 08 R32 including the bottom sections where fogs would otherwise be since you have to.... Anyway, i did all that to get my euro plate secured on my grille. Now I'm hearing a rattling noise when I go over a rough surface or descent sized bump. Everything with the grill is clipped and bolted back in tightly, any other things that could be causing this?
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got my new brake set up installed about 3 days ago. Adams double slot rotors, ebc redstuff pads. I put about 250 miles on the new set up after bedding in the setup. Im now getting a squeak from the fronts when i hit the brakes normally. Is this something that will work its way out or is there an issue?
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