After reversing the car and coming to a stop to change to drive the car seems to bog down like the engine is dying or hesitating but then will pick back up and then start moving forward.
View 2 RepliesOkay, the code I am getting is a "Misfire on Cylinder 3" code. The car hesitates in REVERSE and DRIVE only, not in neutral.
This is what I have already done: checked all wiring (fixed a bare wire), did an ignition coil swap (#3 to #2) to see if it was actually the coil (no change), replaced all the spark plugs (no change), replaced the MAF sensor (no change).
A shop I tok it to said it was the ignition coil, and that all the spark plugs needed to be replaced. They did not know that I already replaced all the plugs and, having already done the swap with another coil (and getting no change), I find it hard to believe anything they say.
I am leaning toward an O2 sensor issue or a fuel filter issue (but these cars are supposed to have lifetime fuel filters and that is not a job I ant to do if I don't have to).
I was also told that the "green thing" in this photo might be bad. What that is and/or why it would be bad. it does move a little, but so do all the others.
Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesI bought a MK4 GLS 2.0 5 spd with 200,000km on it back in february, It currently has 208,000km on it.
Whenever I drive in reverse, I get this loud shuddering/rattling noise with a slight vibration. I've noticed that it is louder from a stop and when the clutch it partially depressed accelerating,but pretty much goes away when the clutch is let out or when coasting.
It is sounds like it is coming from behind the front seats to the rear of the car. It almost sounds like the rear shock mounts are rattling. I also sometimes still here a slight knock, similar to the sound of worn sway bar bushings, but replaced those a few weeks ago.
I also get the same knock whenever I screw up a shift and the engine moves. I also considered and engine or transmission mount but i don't really get any vibration through the steering wheel other than a small amount which could be attributed to the poly dog bone bushings.
About two months ago but I replaced the RR shock mount with a new one. The old one looked fine. I replaced the RL shock mount with the one that I removed from the RR side.
Changing the shock mounts made no difference but I noticed that I could easily compress the RL rear shock with my hand. Could worn rear shocks be causing this noise/vibration? I've searched but I can't find an explanation besides the shock mounts.
I have replaced a few suspension components in the last few months:
-rear beam bushings in august
-front sway bar bushings a few weeks ago
-RR rear shock mount (new)
-RL rear shock mount (used from other side, but looked fine and replacing it made no difference)
-energy suspension poly dog bone bushings about six months ago
I don't think the car was really maintained that well due to it having original sway bar bushings and having tires that were worn very unevenly due to the rear beam bushings when I got it.
I have a 2001 RAV4 4WD. I gave the car to my sister. When she and other family members drive it, the car revs to 4K rpm without moving, hesitate, then drives. It is dangerous to merge. I know there is a bulletin on this problem for model years 2001 to 2003, and Toyota will replace the ECU and transmission, if damaged, extending the warranty to 150K miles or 10 years (the car has 108K miles, and approaching 10 years). However, no engine light and no code shows up.
We took it to 2 transmission specialists; both will not touch the transmission because they (independent of each other) feel it's the ECU. (We have used them in the past for other cars.) We then took it to 2 Toyota dealerships; Toyota won't fix it, recommends replacing the transmission. We are stuck because we can't get answers and can't get any solutions to our problem.
We called Toyota; the Toyota case worker has been useless, says he sees nothing wrong with the car and said it's safe to drive (it's not, especially when merging). Both local transmission specialists said they would not drive the car in that condition. Right now it's sitting in the driveway, totally useless.
Just a little background, my Ex is a 2000 V10 4x4 with 217,000 miles. I've owned it for a little under a year. Very clean truck, and well maintained by previous owner. Now the issue. Starting about a month after I bought it, it would occasionally hesitate to engage drive from park. I checked fluid and it was full and clean. I had a buddy recommended that I check for chafed wires in the steering column which I did and found nothing. It seemed to get better for a while but now it's back. It's doing it more than half the time I put it in drive and sometimes takes 10-15 seconds to engage. So am I probably looking at a new trans? Or, is there anything that can be done to save the old trans?
View 1 RepliesMy father's 2000 F150 5.4L has developed an issue. But the issue only surfaces in it's last gear. As it shifts into overdrive it begins to miss and hesitate and bog. If you disable overdrive you never feel it.
I'm thinking an exhaust restriction. There are no trouble codes, no check engine light. I notice that the note of his exhaust changes as the vehicle warms up, sounds like it's being smothered. And the flow out of the pipe lessens.
My only issue is whether the EGR is causing it or the converters. Haven't seen them go bright red yet, but this has been going on for a good while.
I wanted to get a few opinions before I tear into it today. I'll do a vacuum test on the EGR valve and rescan the codes but don't wanna drive it and heat up the exhaust when i gotta disassemble it.
Two months and 2500 miles on my GTI and I feel like I finally know what the DSG is going to do most of the time. Driving with a cold tranny? Expect some delayed clutch takeup and very noticeable downshifting. Downshifting to pass? Goose the throttle a bit before hand to let the car know what you want. Shifting from reverse to drive? Better come to a full stop. EXCEPT! My DSG will still seemingly stall during this transition roughly 1 out of 3 times. I cannot find any rhyme or reason to it and now basically have to sit stopped in N for a good 3-5 seconds before shifting into D to keep the car from doing that quick surge and stop maneuver. I feel like it might be something with the timing of when I press or release the brake. I love every other aspect of the car which is why it's so annoying having to explain to passengers why the transmission in my 30 thousand dollar hatchback just fell on its face.
View 8 RepliesThe other day I noticed the car slipped into reverse fairly hard, then when I placed it into drive it also slipped in fairly hard. Once I was out on the road it hesitated and then slipped into gear 3rd then 4th, and when I slowed down it seem to hesitate when gearing down. Two days passed and no problems, then today started up again, and now the "check engine" light came on...! Shifted ok on the way home this evening but check engine light still on. Only 34K, 2012 bought in June 2011. Has been an absolutely brilliant ride up until this week. I understand the tranny is sealed ? Any tips besides taking it to a dealer ? Problem is I live quite a ways from one, and finding the time.
View 14 RepliesI just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
View 12 RepliesI have what sounds like a spring noise or a slight rub of a newly installed coilover set. The thing is it only happens when backing out of the garage and down the drive way in reverse, I'm not able to recreate it when moving forward. I've notice that it happens on all four. It is a very subtle sound/feel but it is there. I have about a one inch drop when backing out this when it occurs and yesterday I noticed it also happens when I go over the small lines that divide the driveway concrete slabs, but only when in reverse. Besides this the car rides and feels great with no other problems.
View 2 RepliesI'm almost 99% positive I need to replace my Drivers Front Axle Assembly. I can feel it "click" when I reverse down my drive way and at low speeds regardless whether I turn the wheel. However, at street speeds, you can no longer feel it. I wanted to know if all Axles aftermarket are created equal.
Can I go with the one from ECS : [URL] ..... Or is this a part where staying OEM is important?
I have a 2001 vr6 Jetta automatic transmission. When I shift my car from park into to reverse or drive the whole car jerks as if it's banging into gears. But while driving it drives normal. When I stop and accelerate I feel the same jerking you would say.
View 5 RepliesSo I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
View 12 RepliesI just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
View 1 RepliesToday was the first time this happened. The car is modified as follows:
-APR Stage 1+ tune
-APR HPFP
-CTS Intake
-OE LEDs wired for fog, not that it matters for this
-2800 miles on the car, Stage 1 since 1000; 1+ since 1500.
I was flooring it in second and at the top of the RPM band, around 5500 to redline, the car was hesitating ever so slightly. It felt almost like it was bouncing off the rev limiter; but it wasn't. So I shifted into third and rode it out to redline and again, same feeling of hesitation.
After that, I was where I was going (grocery store). After leaving I got on it again first, to second, to third paying very close attention. This time there was only a very small hesitation at the very top of second; I may have made it up it was so faint in comparison to the precious hesitation.
I have an '02 GTI VR6. It died on me on the freeway after surging then limping to a stop and wouldn't restart. I replaced my fuel pump 5 months ago and now I suspect that it has died again, but I want to be absolutely sure that the pump is the problem before I replace it again.
Last time the car would sometimes hesitate in 1st and 2nd for a couple weeks before the pump actually went bad. This time it seemed fine for 5 months then just went out.
The pump does not prime when I open the door. I checked fuse #28 and it's not blown, but there doesn't seem to be any power to it. I tested the power to the fuel pump connector. When I turn the key on I get ~12v for a split second then nothing. While cranking the engine I get ~9v constantly. I hooked a square 9v battery straight to the two outside connectors on the pump and nothing happened.
Can I be sure that the pump is the only problem? Obviously it's dead, but is there any reason for fuse 28 to not be getting power? And should the connector only be getting power for a split second when the ignition is turned on? I tried a different fuel pump relay with no change.
I shifted to "reverse" but the car went to "drive" instead. I've only had my Prius for 2 weeks. Today was the first time I encountered this problem, and it happened 3x.
View 14 RepliesI was being dumb and floored my passat in reverse. Now its making a really bad noise when i rev it or drive at all. It sounds like someone holding something against a moving tire or wheel or something. Not sure if its the tranny or a belt or what and there's a slight burning smell...
View 16 RepliesI bought (in November 2012) a 2009 Subaru Impreza. On a couple of occasions, when I put the car in Drive, it started going in reverse (in a flat parking lot). Each time, I put the car back in Park, turned the ignition off, started up again and it seemed fine - till yesterday. I was in a parking lot again, tried putting the car in drive and it went in reverse! A few times in a row, till I got so close to the vehicle behind me that I had to call roadside assistance... What's going on??
View 4 RepliesI have a beautiful 2002 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI with just over 100k miles on it. I've been saving for a new set of tires and a new regulator for the rear window. The window suffers from the "pop and drop" syndrome but I have instructions on how to fix it myself when I can get the parts.
Yesterday, I started her up to go to my second job when I discovered I had no reverse. In drive, I could just creep forward at 3000 rpm. Fixing a transmission is probably the worst case scenario I could imagine happening.
I'm left with two options: Either find something simple I can do myself to get it moving again or get what I can for it and use the proceeds to buy a piece of metal to get back and forth to work.