I have 1500m on my 6m and all of a sudden it feels like it take more effort to move the shifter from neutral to hear and vice versa. Specially first gear but the others as well.
View 12 RepliesSo, For the past week or so, I've been noticing that my clutch has been getting harder and harder to depress when I go to shift. I only have 1500 miles on the car and picked it up 3 weeks ago. When I took delivery, the cars clutch was silky smooth.
This "tightness" is almost as bad as my 6MT clutch on my old subaru (which needed to be replaced because the spring on the pressure plate tightened). What could be making the clutch feel so heavy? I'm not too familiar with the VW clutch. Is it hydraulically actuated? If so, maybe the fluid is low or leaking?
Decided to see if any of you fine gentleman could offer some insight into my shifting problems. OK so here it is. I have a short throw shifter and it shifts perfectly at lower RPM's ( under about 3k) anything over that and I have to somewhat force it into gear. I also noticed that when in neutral the shifter seems off centered to the right about an inch roughly. I had the R into VW for some other work recently and they said it was prob the short throw itself so I ordered a new one which should be here tm. Hopefully that will take care of this problem
View 5 RepliesI just brought my gti in for the 20K oil change etc... I have noticed something weird... when I accelerate hard or have been driving for a while, and then shift into neutral or push in the clutch, the engine revs up to almost 2K, then back down to 1K once or twice, then finally settles to 700rpm's. It doesn't do it cold, or when I have the AC running.
I have no CEL's, and the dealer just said they ran a fault check, and it was clear. I do have an APR exhaust and a K&N intake (I think stage1 tune)... I asked about the PCV valve, and they said that would throw a code... They said they could do additional diagnostics out of warranty, since they think it has to be part of my aftermarket stuff.
I don't know if it's related, but if I really jump on it, in 5th gear or so, I can hear the car losing a little rpm's then around 4K just for a second, then it's goes back to normal... This only happened once or twice, so maybe it was just in my head...
On a manual car, I know it's not the best thing to go from neutral, completely bypass 1st gear, and shift to 2nd gear. As well as 3rd to 5th bypassing 4th. However, is it the same for downshifting into neutral or another gear? Will it hurt the transmission to go from 3rd to neutral (bypassing 1st and 2nd) when coming to a stop? I do know that shifting from 4th to 2nd gear and bypassing 3rd will harm your tranny. I just want to double check if I'm right...
View 24 RepliesI have a 2002 Saturn SL with nearly 170,000 miles on it, but the manual transmission has gone seriously wrong... I was driving today and I noticed that it was progressively getting harder and harder to shift. By the middle of the afternoon I was strong arming it. Yanking it into as well as out of gear. By around early evening I could no longer get it into gear at all. I was at a stop sign when this happened and ended up stuck there. Now here's the weird part: When I shut off the car the shifter would slide right into gear. In fact, it would go into all of the gears no problem. As soon as I started the car back up I couldn't get it into gear. So what ended up happening is that I put the trans in gear then started it and limped it home in 2nd.
View 6 RepliesI had something unusual happen recently... I backed out the driveway and went to put the car in drive and found the shift lever harder to move than normal and it wouldn't go into drive. It would go into park and reverse easily enough. After some manipulation it went into drive and ran with no problems to my destination. At first, I thought something fell down into the mechanism and was causing it to bind. AND of course, when I showed it to a pal, I could not recreate the issue. The next morning it worked fine, but it happened again later in the day, but it took much longer to get it into drive.
On the way home, the check engine and traction control lights both came on. I dropped it off at my mechanics and he diagnosed error code C1201 P0705 and claims that the remote starter (shop installed after market) is interfering with the transmission control module. I contacted the installer of the starter and he says it is not possible, but I know something is wrong... Now, I can't get it to act up and the idiot lights are gone. I need to rely on my vehicle and can't afford to be stranded somewhere. I feel it would be pointless to take the car to the installer, since the warning lights are gone and there are no shifting issues now.
I have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.
Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.
After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.
Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!
This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.
It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.
We love our 04 Prius (190K, still original brakes, etc.). Today we encountered a strange problem. My wife was driving and pulled into a parking lot. She could not turn the car off , remove the box key, or shift out of neutral. No warning lights.
After about 10 min. the car would drive again. We've now cycled about 5 times (i.e. driven somewhere) and it seems OK. We replaced the 12V battery a couple of years ago and haven't seen any problems in that area.
My 02 Alero will start, but when I went to put it into reverse it looked into neutral and wont come out. I can move the gear shift but it won't come out of gear.
View 3 Replies1993 Geo Prizm with some odd 275,000 miles on it. Was at a stop sign, in first gear, and gave the car some gas. Very quickly it jumped out of first gear and stopped moving abruptly. Tried to get it back in first gear and it just stayed in neutral. Had to push it to the side of the road. Tried putting it in any gear and it wouldn't go. Then tried to have the car running in neutral and let up on the clutch and as soon as I started letting up on the clutch, something (like metal) started grinding. Pushing the clutch it (in neutral) stops the grinding. So, do I need a new clutch? New transmission?
View 11 RepliesOK, so for the last few days it gets harder and harder to get into 1st, the rest are fine. Now it will not engage at all. If it were cable, shouldn't it also have problems in other gears? Even with the car off and clutch out, 2,3,4,5,and 6 all go in and stay just fine. First gear feels as if there is a physical blockage. Thoughts?
View 6 RepliesVehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
View 6 RepliesMy 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 85,000 miles and we are having trouble with the gear shift. It will not shift into 1st from neutral but will shift into 1st from 2nd. We recently replaced the clutch (about 3 months ago). We are about to go on a road trip and are wondering whether we should get it checked out before hand.
View 9 RepliesIn hot weather or even warm / humid weather, my very low mileage Mazda 626 (2002) becomes almost impossible to shift, especially from neutral to first, after about 20 minutes of driving. If I stop driving and the car cools off, it's okay again, until another 20 minutes of driving. It's fine in cool weather. This problem started in the summer of 2010.
View 4 RepliesI'm wondering if it is OK to shift into neutral while coasting (engine on). I've read varying arguments back and forth on whether or not it hurts it. I've done for a while in my 99 suburban and the transmission still shifts just fine. I've tried it once in the elantra just to see how it affects my fuel economy, and it boosts it about 100mpg (coming off a freeway ramp). Braking and steering controls don't seem to be affected by the lower vacuum.
I can see why its not advised while the engine is off (i.e., towing), but if the engine is on, torque converter turning, transmission fluid pumping, I can't see where it would hurt.
I have recently been having problems with my 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon). When I press power, all the dashboard lights turn on. And when I try to shift the car into reverse or drive the car stays on neutral. What is going on?
View 7 Repliesi was trying to align my headlights last night and forgot to switch them off. now the battery is dead and i need to shift it to neutral to roll it out of the garage and jump it. but it won't shift. the dealer said to turn it to on and step on the brake. doesn't work. i just get a buzzing sound coming from the engine compartment. is there any way to shift it? or do i just need to take the battery out and get it charged?
View 9 RepliesI read a couple posts on Gear Shift switching back to neutral. Here is my situation. Got in the car to return some movies and realized I left them on the table. Went back to the house, and right before I turned into the driveway, noticed a metal coffee cup had come out of the holder and the edge was up under the accelerator. I had been applying my brakes to slow for the turn into the driveway, then when I went to accelerate, nothing, then noticed the cup.
Removed the cup and stepped on the gas to go into the driveway. Nothing. Turned the car off, then back on and tried to put into drive, goes a tiny bit then slips back into neutral. Tried it in reverse, same thing, pops back into neutral.
I can hold the shift lever in position and the car moves. It's in the driveway now and will get towed to the Toyota dealer tomorrow. Obviously a problem with the shifter as a result of the "coffee cup" under the edge of the accelerator. And yes, I know it's dangerous, hubby used the car last on his visit home this weekend and apparently the coffee cup either got put down on the floorboard or was knocked out. I bring it in the home when I'm done.....anyway.
So, the most likely cause was the spring talked about in other posts breaking, or a switch sticking or what. Seems like something got knocked or shifted out of adjustment. Does the accelerator have some type of cut off switch if something gets lodged under it?
This may be an old question: is it beneficial to shift into neutral while coming to a stop in an automatic transmission? But, my new Ford Fiesta has a PowerShift 6-speed transmission that behaves differently from a standard automatic. According to Ford, it's "like two 3-speed manual transmissions put together, with the dual clutch and shifting components controlled electronically."
Since the PowerShift is really a computer-controlled manual transmission (without a fluid torque converter), it's actually in neutral when I'm stopped and the shifter is in Drive position. I can feel it disengage as I come to a stop. However if I try coasting to a stop uphill, the engine still pulls the car upward at low speed without my foot on the accelerator. So the computer has to judge when to activate the clutch.
The issue is, I tend to apply the brakes lighter than average and decrease speed at a slower rate to come to a stop. So I think I might be confusing the computer, working against the engine before it wants to disengage the clutch, whereas most people would come to a stop more abruptly and the shifting action would have no problem. This is why I shift into neutral early in my slow-down phase, so the engine doesn't have a chance of pushing the brakes.