I had some Helix HID lights installed (opdparts). The lights all work except the driver side low beam. Here are two short vids showing problem:
The light in question also will flicker if I hit a bump. I tried to research solution but i'm ignorant on this matter.
Also The adjustments do work for the light. I can raise/lower or make beam go left or right.
Just the other day my remote began to stop unlocking my doors at all? And the hatch button works most the time along with the lock. Locking it always sets the alarm but on occasion it doesn't actually lock the door. Am I just out a whole key..
View 13 RepliesHeat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem?I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
View 1 RepliesThis morning a dash light informed me a headlight bulb was out. It was my DTR light on the passenger side.
I purchased Sylvania H7 high intensity, installed it and it failed to work properly. Daytime light on only drivers side works.
High Beam on , both lights works.
I checked my manual and it said to check fuse in the 5 slot on the driver side dash/door panel and there actually is no fuse in there. I checked the driver side and there was no fuse there either.
I replaced my driver side bulb last year and it took 5 mins....i am already 4 hours into this!
Well my alarm is not working properly, when lock my doors all my doors lock but yet my headlights don't flash and i dont get any alarm chirp..
View 2 Replies So far i haven't been able to find a lot of solid info on this rain sensor. Here's what i know:
My sensor indeed works, if i remove it and move my fingers the wipers will speed up/slow down accordingly. It looks like the window has been replaced and a very "shotty" job was done replacing the sensor/rearview mirror.
There was extra adhesive around the sensor, i removed that and cleaned it up, also cleaned up the gel over the sensor. Reinstalled everything, still cannot get it to work.
If i have just the sensor on the windshield, it semi-works, but when i put the mirror back on, it doesnt work at all.
I know the sensor is good, i get the fastest wiper settings. Relay #192 is good.
My best guess:The sensor is going bad, or the gel isn't making a good enough contact with the windshield allowing it to "detect" the rain hitting it. You can tell the gel isn't in the best of shape and I am pretty sure that's the culprit.
Where to locate a rain sensor? or the Gel, or if any gel can be used, I am going to try and find something i can "substitute" in place of the gel thats on it.
I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
View 2 RepliesEver since I painted my car my outer door handles have not worked properly. Once you open the door using the inner door handle then the outer one works fine...lock the doors and the outer handle becomes almost useless. I say almost useless because if you kind of pull it just right it seems to catch and work. How to remedy it? Really tired of using this auto window roll down to reach in and open the door.
View 4 RepliesI have 2000 golf with a gli front end. Recently just did the swap and now I'm having issues with one blinker and one high beam not working. The running lights work on both sides. The headlights work on both sides. I checked the bulbs and they were good. I check for power it was all good. I checked the fuses and they were fine.
View 7 RepliesDriving home the other day my right turn signal stopped working. Checked all lights when I got home and the front signal had a constant but low illumination and all the other lights were mostly out as well, very little was working actually.
Pulled the bumper and head lamp tonight. The plastic connector on the low beam was melted and the wires were burnt. The problem was the two brown wires that are sort of routed together. Third wire (grey or another shade of brown depending on headlight manufacturer) was OK.
Headlights are aftermarket, Volx Tuning, < 1 yr old. The rest of the harness inside the assembly looks good- certainly don't see any opportunities for a short.
I replaced the connector and bad section of wire and plugged it back in for a test. All lights were then 100% operational. I removed the assembly to find that the same lamp was smoking again. (I sort of expected this, but had to try.)
Clearly I've got a short somewhere but where do I start? The part of the vehicle's wiring harness that is visible behind the assembly is in good condition. The lamp itself (H7 I believe?) appears OK as well, I don't guess I get so so lucky as to hear those can develop an internal short in the base or something?
My problem(s) are as follows:
I recently got a 2001 VW Golf 1.8T from a buddy in the Marines. He delivered it to me at my home almost 4 hours away, as described, reportedly without any issues. I got all of the paperwork transferred so that my wife could have a solid daily driver, only to discover ...
1) The vehicle in question was apparently used by a car audio company local to him, who has done some serious screwing with the electrical system in order to incorporate (and then remove) their crap.
2) When shifting through the gears, and coming to 4th gear, you get a couple of seconds of initial acceleration, followed by deceleration and RPMs falling, which in turn leads to the speedo dropping.
3) The same thing happens in 5th gear.
4) The only option is to downshift to a lower gear, which she did, and was apparently cruising along at 60 mph in 2nd gear, as 3rd gear was behaving the same way as 4th/5th upon downshifting. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm pretty sure this is a BAD thing .
I have had my T-Reg for 2 weeks now, and absolutely love it! However, there are some strange things I have found with the Nav System that are just a bit annoying.
1) Not all cities are on the CD. This is obvious - they can't put *all* the cities on, but there has been more than one occassion where the city I needed was not in there. For instance, I tried to find "Centerville, VA" but the Nav System only knew "Clifton, VA" (I guess they are the same), which ultimately became "Fairfax, VA." I didn't realize it was "Clifton" until I arrived there (following a map) and saw a sign.
2) There are two sections of major roads that I travel (Rte. 95 and Rte. 66) where the Nav system stops giving me directions to my destination. It tracks my position on the map as I am driving, so I know I have a fix on at least 3 satellites, but when I press the "i" button for my next cue, it says something like "Routing to your destination is not available from this location." The blue line on the display that shows where I should be going also is missing. Once I exit either of these major roads (in the areas that this occurs) the Nav System resumes guidance.
3) The map display on the Nav System is always "behind" by 10 or 15 seconds. When I cross a roadway, the map doesn't indicate my crossing until a good 10 or 15 seconds later, depending on my speed. The turn-by-turn display and voice prompts are *dead on*, it is just the map that isn't.
Hey for some reason my esc light will pop on saying it's off without Mr pressing the button. What makes it do that?
View 9 RepliesI have had an engine code for some time claiming my auxiliary air pump is not working properly. My indy saw no obvious problem, but it could just be shot. He suggested I take it to the dealer. But from my understanding, that pump only works to achieve cleaner combustion when the engine is cold right after a start. I am tempted to continue ignoring it. Would I be making a mistake? I haven't noticed any power or mpg reduction.
I guess I can always take my car in for the under the hood seal recall and have them do a diagnostics too.
Well, just a little history of what'd happened to my Prius 1 month ago; I've got rear-ended and was shunted forward and hit the car in front of me, so the damages were both bumpers at back (more severe) and front (slight damage to the front number plate). Got it back last Thursday and it all looked fine and well, until today where I was being asked to show off the IPA at work, and it is not working properly, in fact it is not working at all.
View 19 RepliesToday I was driving getting on the highway while having the clutch engaged I went to shift into third and it was very hard to get it into gear. For the rest of the day today this was a problem and especially at higher rpm. I am pretty sure my clutch is going. I asked around local and they say it is the clutch. Do I need to also replace my flywheel or can I just use my old one?
View 7 RepliesWhen I first get into my car, the AC works and the fan will move the air. However, after 20-30 min., the air is no longer cooling and I can barely feel the fan blowing the air and I have touched neither the thermostat control nor the fan. The AC will not put out cool/cold air with the fan at the same position until after the car has been turned off for at least 10 min.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry SE-V6 and recently noticed my heater is not working properly. The fan dial works fine and I can adjust the speed of the fan no problem. When I adjust from the defroster, to the feet, to the face etc.. I don't hear that noise I usually hear of the system opening or closing the appropriate vents in behind the dash - all I hear is the fan blower going - as though it's just blowing on my windshield but no air seems to be coming in any of the vents (ie. if I put the dial to the face and the fan speed on high, no air comes out the vents).
If I adjust the temperature, I can feel heat is there vs. cold but since no air is blowing out (all I hear is the blower fan going), I don't get any heat in the cabin. Is this a fuse problem or something more serious? I have about 70,000km so I'm out warranty of course....
Where is the fog light relay located in the car? I have checked the fuse and the bulb everything is fine but it wont turn on.
1. Fog light fuse still good (even try to switch to new fuse) the fog light wont turn on at all.
2. Check the connection wire everything is in intact.
3. High beam still working fine using the stalk but fog light still not working. Yes, we can only use fog or high beam, but the issue is low beam and fog not even working.
4. Before the Fog light problem, the driver side fog light is blown. So I replace it with the new bulb. Everything is OEM part there are no aftermarket part or HID .
5. This happen about a week after the driver side bulb blown then all sudden the fog just not working at all.
I have a brake problem on my 2001 Isuzu Vehicross that has mechanics at 3 garages stumped.I bought this SUV in Dec 2013 and drove for 9 months with no noticeable problems.
At PA state inspection in Sept 2014, all 4 brakes and rotors were replaced. Since then the brakes slowly started to not engage when the pedal is first pushed. It progressed until they didn't engage until about an inch from the floor.
In Nov 2014, the brake lines were checked for leaks and bled twice. Each time they worked fine for a few days, then started to not engage again. A friend suggested maybe it was not brake fluid in my brake line. A mechanic assured me they contained brake fluid. Needless to say, I did not drive this SUV much over the last several months.Then in July 2015, another mechanic thought it was the master cylinder so I had that replaced. It did not fix the problem.
It has progressed to the point where I can feel they are engaging when the pedal is close to the floor, but not very strongly and I travel further & further until I finally stop.There are no dashboard indicators, nor codes on a diagnostic computer showing a brake problem. I have never seen brake fluid on the ground under the vehicle. What might be causing this brake problem?
I recently put in a new compressor and accumulator. I didn't change the orifice tube since it is almost impossible to get to. I added freon and oil with dye and it would work fine sporadically sometimes it wouldn't get cold at all other times it would be freezing. This lasted about a week. I noticed that when it was hot the clutch was engaging fully but I felt the pipe near the firewall and it wasn't cold as if the compressor wasn't compressing and then it would start compressing and it would get cold. The compressor sounds different when it was making the car cold. This led me to rule out a problem in the air control doors. Now there seems to be a leak which is bad since it runs out almost immediately. The problem is finding it since there isn't any oil residue or freon dye where I can see.
(Looking for some shortcuts where I don't have to remove the vacuum brake, brake booster to change the orifice tube?)