Had the car for about a week, Autobahn with lighting pack, leaving home is set to fogs. So when its dark out and I have the switch in auto, obviously the fogs come on when I unlock the car, as soon as I push the button to start the car the headlights will come on for a microsecond, shut off, then start up again and stay on. This happens about 99% of the time and it can't be good for the ballasts.
View 13 RepliesHow do I get my gauge needles to run a cycle on start up? It is even possible?
View 2 RepliesOk, to start off. I have a 2010 2.0T CCTA with 23k miles. I recently purchased a HPA Intake Manifold and installed it myself. I was told by HPA that they offer a tune specifically for their manifold. I however, purchase the Maestro suite by Eurodyne with the intention on getting it all tuned myself. I was able to code out the CEL for the flappers no problem. Now my only issue is the cold starts. During the cold start cycle I get misfires and air surge. I ran the fault reader and got the P0300-P0304 (Misfire faults). Obvious thing to check were plugs and packs. So I changed them. No change.
I read in a bunch of threads that these faults as well as air surge are a sign of the PCV Valve. I have a catch can kit on order so I will see if that wotrks. My guess is no. Another thing I think it could be is the N75 valve however, this issue only occurs during the cold start cycle. After the cold start cycle is done I have no issues what so ever. So I ruled out the N75 valve. If it was bad, then it would be bad regardless of how cold/warm the engine was. I have attached a video of the Cold Start.
Why recently the fan comes on when I start the car, then a few seconds later it turns off, then a few seconds later it's on regardless of outside temp or engine temp? Is this simply caused by a malfunctioning green coolant temp sensor? What type of electrical Gremlin causes our cooling fans to cycle "on" and then "off" every three seconds?!
View 1 RepliesI had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.
I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)
I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.
A few months ago my teg started idling a bit funny. Its got a chipped ECU and has always idled very low (500 - 750 rpm) once warm.
In the past few months however the revs have started fluctuation or surging. Basically once the engine is warm the revs drop right down to nearly 200 - 250 (the needle actually drops off so its hard to tell ), then the engine bounces back up to around 500 rpm. It then does this non-stop if I leave the throttle alone.
Ive found that resting on the throttle tends to solve the problem as I'm forcing the system to run constantly, however when letting off the throttle (or dropping out of gear), she drops right down gets really ragged then bounces back up to ~500. The drop and surge cycle takes roughly 2 seconds.
Ive taken it to an auto electrician who sat on it for 2 weeks and eventually shrugged his shoulders. I've heard that one factor could be the O2 sensor, however another camp has said ECU and yet another said throttle sensor.
Details of the car are:
94 Honda Integra (GS-R model)
B18C (Gen 1) motor - Enlarged throttle body, Gizmo chipped ECU, better breathing with a pod etc.
Whenever I use the a/c on the 88 camry it blows hot air unless you driving very fast when the vehicle is idling it seem to heat up again you can hear the compressor cycle on and off so that would mean the compressor needs replacing right? And also when I replace it do I need to get a new receiver dryer and filter for it?
View 1 RepliesOk, '99 F450 has had a/c problem for couple years and finally getting around to fixing it(co. truck and enough people complained).
When dead cold, compressor will cycle quickly, like low on freon. Low side goes from 40 to 20 and back again as it cycles. Put a set of good gauges on it today and I can't get it to turn on at all. Even jumped both hi and lo switches.
Originally I was thinking it was the clutch, but when cold I was able to jump switches and make it run continuously. I didn't have gauges then and didn't want to burn it up so now I have gauges and it won't come on at all(when warm). Will have to wait a couple days til I can try it again when cold(like in the morning before it gets used).
Vehicle is a 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5. Door locks cycle on and off. Happens during wet weather and usually takes 2-3 hours of driving. Sounds like there is a relay shorting out so that even though the doors are already locked, it attempts to relock them. If I unlock doors using the rocker switch, immediately locks them.
Then the lock mechanism tries to lock them again, and cycles through this every 10 seconds to 3-4 minutes randomly. Is there a relay under the hood which might do this when moisture enters the engine compartment? If so, where is it located and what is the part number.
One mechanic suggested that I replace the multiples computer located in the rear tailgate but he wasn't very clear about why he thought that was the case.
My prius was reset due to HV battery being replaced, I need to pass the NY State inspection and for that I have to complete a Drive cycle.
I have followed the instructions in the service manual for Catalyst, O2 and Evap test. I put the car in inspection mode and idle for few min to warm up then drive it for 10-20 min while monitoring it with techstream the Catalyst and O2 showed Pass and Complete the Evap needed the car to cool down for 6 hours so did that but I am not sure if I am ready to go in or not.
The COMPLETE does not show any more for the catalyst or O2 even but it does say PASS for all 3 . What does this mean?
why does it say incomplete for the test that I already passed?
My truck is a 91 sierra 2500 over 8600 gvw (8 lug) 5.7 4l80E. After my truck failed a Calif smog test I set about testing the different sensors that are attributed to the reason it failed (a few points high on HC's). All the smog equipment and sensors tested ok except for the 02.
I tested the one in the truck when it failed smog, it came out at 400 millivolts key on engine off as my Haynes manual and the Autozone website said it should, after running the truck for 10 minutes and running it at around 1200 RPM's for 2 min to get the O2 cycling it doesn't, best I have gotten was a slow rise of about 0.01 millivolt rise per second to about 0.590 MV where it seemed to level off, the problem is 2 seperate new sensors do the exact same thing, none cycle rapidly between 100-900 MV as the Haynes manual and the Autozone website say they should.
The 02 is pre-cat stock location, no changes to the exhaust since my last smog check. I don't even know if this is the reason I failed smog, it's just the only thing that didn't pass my testing. the truck does seem to be running a bit rich (per my ultra sensitive tailpipe sniff test).
I did do all the normal repairs after I failed the smog test, tune up, air filter, clean the TB run a can of cleaner through the gas tank, ETC, then I failed the re-test by 3 points worse. The truck does not run bad or blow a bunch of smoke, the truck is not throwing any codes.
Is it normal for the engine to turn on for about a minute when you first start it? Mine always does it, seems normal, but just wanted to check and also find out why. I assume it has to power a couple electrical things in the car?
View 1 Replies1999 olds cutlass I am only owner . while driving at all speeds and conditions the air cond will shut off and not cycle back on. If I hit,tap or push on temp control it will come back on also low fan speed (position 1 and 2) does not work.
View 4 RepliesDecided to put the AC on one day but nothing but warm air, observed compressor didn't cycle. Why this would suddenly occur and why?
Vehicle is a 98 tahoe.
My son just got a 2001 Explorer Sport. Among the minor issues that need taken care of is an interesting situation with the wipers. The wipers only function when you press the wash button. It operates fine with wash, it parks fine after wash cycle. However, I get no response from any settings in the normal wiper switch. Where to start looking? Bad connector? Switch? It does have a tilt wheel, wire pulled out of connector?
View 14 RepliesMy nav. when I put the air cond on auto and lower the temp so the air comes on, it blows out the vents on the front of the dash like it should and is cold. Then after about 30 seconds give or take, I hear a door deep inside the dash shut, or open, then the cold air only comes out the dash vents that are the defrosters for the windshield.
Then I can make it go back to the front vents again by pushing the button on the heater control to make the cold air come out the front vents again, but then it does the same thing again. Whats going to need to be replaced/repaired?
High mileage santa fe 190K+ miles. Will only start while cranking. Dies when key is in "on" position. Fuel pump runs/cycles normally when turned to "on" position. No obvious vacuum leaks. No intake obstructions. Vehicle will cont to run using starting fluid. Vehicle starts, idles and runs (somewhat poorly) with MAF unplugged. Fuses appear ok (although the fuse cover/fuse index is lost). Stranded at rural property with limited tools and average abilities.
View 3 Replies2010 Escape with 74,000 miles. Backstory: This is my daughters car who is away at college about 300 miles away. About a year ago the engine started hesitating when driving and would stall to idle at highway speeds. She took the car in to dealer and they replaced the Throttle body under the CSP that had been issued just prior to the dealer visit. All was fine for about 3 months, then she reports that the car is doing the same thing. Check engine light briefly illuminates and goes right back off when this occurs. She is able to slip the car into neutral and it seems to correct the malfunction. Unfortunately she has gotten so good at this that she keeps her hand on the gearshift when driving. It seems to happen at various speeds with no warning and no lasting effects.
She came to visit for Christmas and I was able to replicate the problem after about 30 minutes of city driving, but not quick enough to take a picture of the wrench that illuminated briefly. I slowed to the edge of the road, put it in park and turned off the key (engine ran the whole time at idle). Cranked back up and good to go! She had the oil changed about a thousand miles ago, I replaced the air filter last night and she had to return to her house for work in the next couple of days. She said it happened 5 times on the way home last night.
Car has always been serviced regularly and was a certified pre-owned when we bought it in March or so of 2012. I also bought the extended warranty although that may be expired by now.
Her local dealer said they can't fix it if the CEL is not on or the problem is not occurring at the exact time they have it in the shop. Now, I am not sure but was under the impression that the computer would record any codes and store them even if the light went off and the car returned to normal.
I've got a 2000 F350 PSD XLT. When I turn on the AC it runs and cools fine. However, the first time the clutch cycles off or you select another position then back to an AC position the clutch will not reengage. The high and low pressure check good. How to trouble shoot this.
View 14 RepliesOn my 2011 the gauges would cycle when I turned the key on... My 2014 doesn't... Is there something wrong or has Ford changed the sequence? ...
View 3 RepliesA co-worker of mine got a recent 300h and has had some intermittent recurrences of the following issue when powering down the car. Normally, the tilt wheel tilts up and driver's seat slides back for you to exit the car easily. It's happened about 5 times during very cold weather where the motion of both steering and seat would stop partially along the way, not completing the cycle.
View 11 Replies