Golf/GTI VII :: Grunt From Manual Transmission On Upshift
Sep 22, 2014
About 1500 miles on my GTI and I have been noticing on upshifts, just as I release the clutch, I get a short grunt from the transmission. It's very brief, but consistent in lower gears. it's not terribly loud (may not hear it with the radio on but definitely will with the radio off).
It doesn't seem to impact the drive at all so I'm not stressing about it but I will want it looked at if it poses a risk to the drivetrain... Never had anything like it with my last stick ('02 e46).
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On my mk7 manual, I'm getting a slight growly noise when I shift upwards, mostly noticeable from 1 to 2, a bit less from 2 to 3, and almost none from there up. Nothing when I downshift.
It's almost like a DSG fart, but much subtler. Happens for like a split second, just when I release the clutch, as if it the engine is revving up right when the clutch is engaging. But I know it's not engine related, because my RPM remains steady. Can it be the clutch slipping a bit before it fully locks? Not even sure if that's even a thing.
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So my daughter's '04 Jetta SW 2.0 will not upshift and has the engine light on. After having it read by the local shop I have the following codes:
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0811 Excessive Clutch Slippage
So what to do? I read a lot about issues about the alleged poorly designed/manufactured stock "Auto Trans Valve Body" and how that seems to be a culprit of shifting issues above 150K.
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Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
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I recently purchased an 02 F250 v10 4x4 with 150k from a local auto auction. The transmission, for lack of a better term, will "grunt" when going into third and in and out of overdrive. It doesn't seem to slip at all and the fluid looks slightly discolored, but it does not smell burnt. No Torque Converter whine either. A friend of mine who has owned 10+ SDs for his business said I may need to replace the TCM. Not too sure about that, because other than the strange noise, the truck seems to shift normally.
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Having a problem with water being in the manual transmission oil? I ended up having to drain the oil because 3rd gear started grinding again and it ended up being water in there again. I drained it into a milk jug with the top cut off and let it separate and there was a little over an inch of water in it at the bottom.
Is there possibly a bad deal or something because that seems like way more than a little bit of condensation especially since the oil was changed not too long ago. Also it does not leak anything so I'm not sure where it would be coming from.
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What RPMs do you see in 6th gear, say at 60mph or 80mph? Consumer Reports claims the RPM at 60mph is 3020!
So I went to vw.com to look at the gear ratios for a reality check. The site lists two final gear ratios for the manual. "Final I" is 3.94 and "Final II" is 3.09. When do you get one versus the other? With a final gear ration of 3.09, I get roughly 2400RPM at 60mph. But with a ratio of 3.94, I indeed get about 3000RPM at 60mph or 4100RPM at 80mph!!! That's absolutely insane.
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2004 Jetta 1.8T w/5 speed manual transmission. Bought the car this way, mostly for a parts car, but everything else runs and drives good, so if it wasn't for this issue it would be a decent driver.
Won't/can't select first gear. Seems like there is no "spot" for first, or that the shift mechanism has no where to go., locked out. All the rest of the gear selections work perfectly. Tried the cable adjust ritual, but it was fine-as I suspected. The shift assembly works/moves perfectly from the tranny end and the shift lever end. Not a synchro, it won't go in stopped, moving, running or shut off.
So, what's the probable best guess or best way to come to a diagnosis? Shift tower parts broken somewhere, or something like a shifting fork bent broken? Seems like if it was internal there would be other gear selections that would be affected. Any links to some diagrams?
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I just picked up another GTi and knew the transmission was iffy when I bought it. I had to deal with the serpentine belt tensioner which is now new and also a new waterpump since it was wobbling.
I've already drained and replaced whatever oil was in there with VW G60 Gear Oil which is what my Dealer here told me to put in and it shifts smoother now but still has the same issue. I also did the Shifter Cable adjustment to see if that was the problem but that only made it easier to shift but it still got stuck.
Basically what happens is when driving I shift into 3rd gear and when I go to shift out of 3rd it comes out of gear but it's like it hits a brick wall and will not go into the home position. I was hoping the adjustment and new oil would work but it hasn't done anything.
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So I recently bought my 03 VW Golf TDI, and have it in the shop this morning to get the wheel alignment done, balance my winters, fuel/cabin filter changed, as well as an oil change. I am now wondering whether or not to give them a call to change the transmission oil as well...
But.. the vehicle has alot of km's on it (358K) and I keep reading that it would do more harm then good? Is this true? Doesn't make any sense to me, but the car could shift more smoothly I think if I do it, and I have yet to see any tran fluid change in the previous owners records in quite some time..
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I am having an issue with my 1998 5.4l Expedition, e4od. It will not up-shift from 2-3... It feels almost like it's in a 4x4LOW shift schedule.
I've done a lot of research, I was really hoping the fault was inside the valve body and a stuck spring or valve. I went ahead and scanned the computer and I have no codes. The O/D light does not blink. I can toggle it off and on via the button on the end of the shifter.
I watched the gear data correlate with the shifting to eliminate the cable. The reverse lights come on when in reverse, manual 1 works, reverse works, and I can get it to upshift to 2nd with manual two. In {D}, 1st gear runs until the engine is @ apprx 4,000rpm and if i let the throttle go a bit, it'll upshift to 2nd. Speed will keep increasing until the engine is screaming at 5500rpm.
It does not ever neutral out. It just wont upshift..
I pulled the TRS harness off to inspect, and I checked for codes whilst it was unplugged just to be sure I can read TCM codes. The TRS code showed up.
I tested the TPS sensor and it checks out good.
My speedo works fine and as well as my Tach.
The fluid was not low on initial check with the onset of symptoms. So, I went ahead after doing my tests, drained the pan and dropped it. I pulled the accumulator body and as well as the valve body. I could not get the solenoid off today. I will tomorrow and I will ohm it out. I inspected the valve body and accumulator body and to be honest, I do not know what a stuck valve or accumulator looks like or what it would feel like.
The pan magnet had grey material on it. I pressed it between my fingertips and it did not feel like metal. The one third to the right didnt like right at first, but I can feel a little movement when pressing it in. My camera basically washed out, but without disassembling the individual valves, they look intact via the spaces. The last one on the right is stationary..
I cannot tell if these look right (they are unaltered)
The one on the left felt like it was catching when being pressed in
What else could cause no upshift and no codes?
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I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
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On a manual car, I know it's not the best thing to go from neutral, completely bypass 1st gear, and shift to 2nd gear. As well as 3rd to 5th bypassing 4th. However, is it the same for downshifting into neutral or another gear? Will it hurt the transmission to go from 3rd to neutral (bypassing 1st and 2nd) when coming to a stop? I do know that shifting from 4th to 2nd gear and bypassing 3rd will harm your tranny. I just want to double check if I'm right...
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Daughter bought 05' Santa Fe 4wd 3.5L, from original owner ,car has 47,000 miles on it, was maintained by dealer, and was obvious that car was well taken car of.
So first issue was throttle hesitation, which was mostly corrected by software update.
Now, transmission is acting goofy. If you step on gas heavily, it's as if the front wheels - or tranny -slip, then catch. Almost like a limited slip, then as it up shifts, you get a clunk. If it starts out in 2nd (I dont understand this ) then it's clunking going into 3rd.
If you are gently taking off, tranny acts normal. If you're cruising and punch it, it upshifts well, car goes nice.
Daughter called dealer who said update to throttle programming should have corrected any shift issues
So tech takes it out for ride, is able to get it to act up and states : issue in internal, and we need new tranny. 47,000 miles and need new tranny. Nice
I'm wondering if a fluid change and battery disconnect would work. Seems to me the the tech did a quick and dirty diagnosis.
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I have a 2000 Passat Wagon with a V6 and automatic.
When in "D", the transmission refuses to upshift sometimes. Moving to the tiptronic gate and manually upshifting works, so I think it's a control issue and not something mechanical with the transmission.
It also downshifts inappropriately on occasion. For example, when lifting off the throttle and coasting down just to lose a little speed, it downshifts and I get engine braking. I'm not looking forward to this in the snow. Once again, I can manually upshift just fine when this happens.
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Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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On occasion my 2001 Monte Carlo SS will sometimes upshift all the way to 4th gear when leaving a stop sign. Then it will lug & vibrate obviously from being in high gear at a low speed. I can pull over & shut car off for a minute then start it again & it will shift just fine like normal. Then randomly out of the blue it will do it again without any sort of pattern. I replaced the main computer but that didnt work.
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Late January started having transmission problems. Car would not upshift correctly. Sometimes it would not shift out of 4th unless I used either the paddle or the sport shift. Even when it would up shift to the proper gear the torque converter would not lock/unlock correctly. When at speed and I would lift off throttle trans would not free wheel/coast. It would act like you downshifted to engine brake. Sometimes when doing 60+mph rpm would be about 3000 and would get a 'roaring' noise from trans and would require more peddle than normal to accelerate. It was like the trans had selected two gears and they were fighting each other. Sometimes when this happened would smell acrid clutch burning odor when stopped.
I live near Cape Cod so you have been watching the weather you know we have been getting slammed with snow. Because of the snow I didn't get to the dealer until Feb. Tech took car for test drive with me riding shotgun, luckily transmission did everything listed in first paragraph which made the tech a believer. He did some diagnostics and called Hyundai Tech Service. They requested additional diagnostics which would more time and they wanted car earlier in the week since this was a Friday. The technician did reset the transmission adaptive and returned car to me.
OK now comes much more snow. I put more miles on my snow blower than my car. The adaptive reset made some improvements but proper up shifts were not there but trans growling and odor still there.
Finally got back to dealer today. Additional diagnostics done and the Regional Hyundai rep who was at the dealership agreed to replace transmission under Warranty.
I am original owner. Car is a 2012 2.0 SE with 61600 miles purchased Dec. 2011.
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
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I've been experiencing some intermittent issues with my up-shift pedal not registering when driving in Manual mode.
Would a replacement paddle be required or a simple cleaning of the internal mechanism fix the issue? I don't have access to Vag-Com or I would have already pulled the codes.
I figure now is a good time to fix this issue as my Double Apex Pedals are on their way to me.
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