Golf/GTI VII :: Gravel Like Transition Between The Gates
Oct 25, 2015
I find that I often don't get smooth shifts; mostly to 2nd and 3rd. By this I mean I notice a gravel like transition between the gates. Doesn't happen all the time but I wonder if it's how I'm shifting versus the car. Or maybe the RPMs I shift at.
I did ask dealer to take a look and they said smooth and normal to them. I generally will shift when shift advice pops up on display. Also. I've noticed it doesn't happen as much if I pause the shift at the neutral point versus a single push gear to gear. Clutch is always to the floor for the entirety of the shift.
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From a dead stop it takes a second to go and isn't super smooth, slightly jerky. Seems fine for all other gears, just from dead stop it isn't a smooth transition into 1st gear. Is this typical of DSG or no?
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My car is not my daily and I only hear the sound after it's been sitting for a day or so, at low speeds right when I pull out of my driveway, I hear what sounds like the rear tires dragging over gravel and "sticking," the sound is more pronounced the sharper I turn. As I go a mile or so down the road and make turns, the sound goes away. I don't notice any vibrations or clinking sounds.
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Drove my wife's 4motion today after having drove it a few days ago,didn't really notice anything unusual,then ......but today going around a curve at highway speed(app.55-65mph) went over a small (low) but the length of the lane paved strip and it acted like it had a solid rear axle instead of the indi rear ,showing up as an uneven rough transition ,than the usual nice unoticable smooth ride it had for years,...what rear suspension item would create that if it were broke/failed, Didn't notice any other strange behavior or noises on straights or curves w/o bumps.
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Just wondering how many other C owners are experiencing harsh transition when the hydraulic brakes take over, just as the car comes to a stop, when it's wet outside...
There's a delicate balance just when you're coming to a stop with mild pedal pressure. MG2 regen. braking tapers off, and at the same time, the hydraulic brake system applies the brakes. Do this at a low enough speed, with little pressure, like creeping forward in traffic, and the brakes grab pretty harshly...
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Ever since I picked up my V8 Touareg I've noticed that the transition from stopped to starting can sometimes be rough, and that the shift from 1st to 2nd is often a fairly violent jerk. The worst transmission problem on my Touareg is experienced when I'm in stop-and-go traffic going around 5mpg in 1st gear then accelerate normally. The shift to 2nd is extremely rough.
I took my Touareg into the shop last week to fix this, and another problem I was having, and the car is still at the dealer. When I talked to my service advisor on Friday he said that this is a fairly common problem with later VIN cars. Evidently, they had to reprogram the transmission to meet some EPA regulation and that is causing rough shifting in the lower gears.
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I'm new to Prius V ownership. Just bought it a month ago. I do have a question regarding what I can best describe as driveline chatter. It seems that when I slow down to a point where the EV mode takes over and then speed up again, the Prius will chatter as it makes the transition from electric to gas. Is this a normal thing for a Prius to do. It goes away after the pedal is further depressed and doesn't last for long. It seems just at the transition from EV to ECO (engine) mode.
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Is it necessary to change the transition fluid every 60,000 miles?
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I have recently done a battery disconnect hoping the issue was a glitch in the ecu/tcu as this has solved some clunkiness in my old audi. But the issue is till there.
I also went ahead and did a fluid change of the transmission at the dealer.
The issue is intermittent and the rpms just rev up slightly only on the 3rd and 4th transition and like I mentioned it is an intermittent issue.
I have read something about adjusting bands to the transmission? Is this solution applicable to the 05 solara v6 tranny? The old transmission fluid was pink and not black or burnt.
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I have a vacuum leak. That's clear. When I put the truck in 4WD the air vents to the defrost after a slow (15-20 s) transition. The only way I can get the air to come back to the dash vents is to disengage 4x4. Of course, the auto-lockers aren't working. I can trouble shoot the vacuum lines and find the leak. No big deal.
I've isolated it downstream of the vacuum reservoir. It could be the PVH solenoid but at least the reservoir side holds pressure.
My concern is the noticeably poor A/C performance. It cycles between kinda cool and kinda warm. I remember the A/C being ice cold a few weeks ago.
Could the vacuum leak in 4x4 vacuum lines be related to the A/C problems? I'm thinking blend door vacuum issues. But I can't even find the blend door vacuum lines.
How do I know if my blend door is fully open/closed? Are there any other place to look that can cut down on my troubleshooting?
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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I feel like I am caring around a couple of hundred extra lbs. of sand and gravel around all the time. There are two about 4' long panels under my car that are so full of sand and gravel you can see them sagging down from the side of the car. I took one of them off (not a breeze to do) and cleaned it out and put it back on and it just filled up with sand again. I live 2 miles off of the black top road and that is all it takes. I have tried to wash them out with some success but the panels still sag down. I have thought of taking sheet metal screws and caulking and screwing it up tight but no telling what I might run a screw through.
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Ok, I have a noise, rattle, clunk that is bothering the heck out of me. I know it is not the famous clunk from the yoke or the pads missing on the leaf springs. I have even removed the Tailgate thinking that was the issue, but no it was not.
When driving on gravel roads or if I hit small bumps in the road I hear the noise and it sounds like it is coming from underneath and towards the rear of the truck. It is hard to explain the sound, but it almost sounds as if there was something loose and the metal is hitting again the frame?? I have 126000 miles on it, so I figured I would replace the shocks, they needed it and that did not work, it is still there.
Now the twist, when the temp outside gets below 60 the noise starts to fade away or I have to run over a bigger bump to hear it, and below 40 it almost does not exist. Now the hotter it gets out, the more I hear it and during the summer months it is really annoying. I have also looked underneath and could not find anything that looked cracked, broke or loose.
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I have an xc90 D5 awd. It has about 200 000 km on the clock. It started cutting out a month ago while driving on a gravel road. After cutting out about 10 times I just tried are 2nd key and it hasn't given us the problem ever again. I then went to Volvo who told me to replace the key .. R4200 rand.. Insane I obviously didn't go thru with it been using the other key ever since.
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When I go over a rough gravel road, there is a rattle that is definitely in the steering column. How is this fixed? Is it a simple tightening of something? My Prius is a 2006 with 180,000 miles.
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LS 460 of 2008: I was driving on a gravel road with LS 460 of 2008 and sudden the check engine light came on the dashboard whilst driving and also the check psc light came on and battery light came on signalling battery low. then the car just stopped and could not start.
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I've mentioned in the recent passed a vibration I have and thinking it may be one of my hub bearings. Now I really can't tell if it's that or something else as it feels like powertrain when accelerating but at speed feels like I'm driving on gravel?? The vibration is a tight one if that makes sense..it's bugging me to death.
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It started happening after our week vacation at the beach. Not sure if the salty air caused this or what. We mainly notice it at lower speeds on bumpy/gravel roads. No noise when the sunroof is open.
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I am the proud owner of a P.O.S it’s a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, the trouble is with my ABS braking system. I replaced both hubs a year ago they have the ABS sensor built into them. The light has started coming on so I checked the voltage on both sides of the car the reading are, driver side at 169mv-320mv and the ohm reading is 1.02K, on the passenger side it reads 140mv-240mv the ohm reads 1.01K, one is a bit lower but well above the 50mv minimum. When I restart my car sometimes the light is out until the ABS kicks in on a wet or gravel road. Then the dash light comes on and the ABS system shuts down again, the only thing a code reader states is low voltage in the system but does not call out what side or where the low voltage is coming from…
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I replaced the clutch, slave, flywheel and pilot bearing. Now it sounds like gravel bouncing around under the truck.
Everything works beautifully, but there is horrible noise especially at idle. If push the clutch it will quiet a little. If I change the rpm it will get worse then quiet out then get loud again, there is a sweet spot.
What the heck did I do wrong. It's a horrible gravelly grinding sound.
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After the hard downshifting full throttle highway run low speed stomp on it freeway cruising tires spinning on gravel crawling through town day yesterday -
my tranny just doesn't know what to do!! One thing that it does like to do is make that 6.2 spin and sing! Eventually we'll be on the same page so we can work and play seamlessly.
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