Golf/GTI VII :: Got Message About ECS Is Stationary And Engine Idling?
Mar 27, 2015
SO this morning I let the car idle for aprox, 5 to 10 min. its was a bit cold so figure I warm it up a bit. As soon as I pulled from the driveway a msg came up on the cluster. I only got a glimpse but it said ECS is stationary and about engine idling. I was told ECS stands for Emission Control System. If thats true or not Idk. I did look on my owners manual and found nothing on it. I checked the car status and everything seems to be ok. Car also drives normal.
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I got a Mk7 in October and my Mk4 has unfortunately been parked since. I started it and let it idle to warm once a week or so when I went on Vacation for 10 days. Before going on vacation I moved the car and after warming up everything seemed to be normal. Unfortunately I neglected it once I got back and haven't started it since the beginning of December. I'm selling it here soon and so went out to spruce her up tonight and upon trying to start the battery was dead so a buddy came over and jumped it.
It started right up but immediately was idling funny which I assumed was because of the cold (it's 25 degrees F tonight and has gotten in the negatives in the past few weeks due to snow storms). I shut it down and checked the fluids which were all pretty low especially the oil due to a small leak. So I topped off the all the fluids and started it again and let it idle to full warm.
I decided to take it for a drive around the block and it was still driving pretty rough, no knocking or anything but the engine was "sputtering" and the CEL was on and flashed when I gave it gas. I'm running stock boost so my gauge usually reads around 12psi but is now only going up to 3-5 psi and the vacuum is only at -15 which i think used to idle at -20. I drove it to the gas station and filled it up from a little less than a half tank but it's still running the same and there's a slight burning smell from the exhaust.
I was worried it was my turbo but it was perfectly fine a month ago. I was thinking of throwing some Seafoam or Heat.
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When the car is in neutral or in gear at a standstill there's a noise right around 1000rpm that sounds like a serious rattle or knocking. It sounds as if the car is puttering out. So essentially, I give it gas to around 2000 and then take my foot off and on its way back to idle it will putter at 1000rpm.
If the clutch is fully depressed or fully disengaged the noise is no different. I haven't noticed the noise in any other situation other than when the car is stationary but it's still a very disconcerting noise and likely just being drowned out by other noises when moving.
Does this sound like something engine related or could it be DMF chatter? Could I possibly pick up on an issue by running tests or logging with VAGCOM?
Some background on the car:
-Modified with APR Turboback and Stage 1/2 file 1.3 (the noise is present with and without tune file)
-I run 93 only
-Most miles are highway miles, currently sitting at 23k miles
-I don't notice any issues with shifting, albeit some slipping when tuned in 6th gear (no slipping when using stock file)
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Just picked up my 2012 2dr. GTI. My first wash and I noticed the left rear stationary window leaking from the inside. ( not impressed ). It is going back to be fixed under warranty but wonder if the seal and window are one or two piece and what is involved in this repair? Hopefully the person doing it has done it before and not using a tube of silicone to repair it. What to expect for a proper repair.
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I was just at work tonight and went out and started my car for it to warm up (it is -20) and go back inside for about 15 mins, I come out and as I am walking back to my car. I notice tons of exhaust is blowing out from the bank puffing like a steam engine and idling insanely rough with the RPM gauge at about 900 RPM with a EPC code. I immediately shut off the car. Cautiously turn the car back on. Car is idling normally, EPC code is gone, rev it a bit. Everything seems fine.
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I have a Golf GTI IV 1.8T Tiptronic and having this problem when the car is Idling i can feel the engine vibrations trough the seat and are anything but soft, especially if the trany is neutral and less if leave it in D.
I've changed the dog bone recently, wich was very bad, but the vibrations didn't smooth they remain the same but the driving improved, so the dog did replacement was good.
The next step would change the engine mounts, but they look goof and I don't want to start change parts just in case. Where I live car parts aren't cheap and some times new ones are just crap.
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When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
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I have a MK4 Golf 2003 1.9Tdi PD100 , the problem is that the engine seems to miss when idling , so the question really is how can I tell which cylinder is missing , it seems to do it every 10 seconds or so and the engine shakes slightly at the time as if it were missing ! .
I suppose it would be easier if the cylinder was missing all the time , then maybe I could crack open a line at a time ! , but can you do that on a PD engine !
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So today I ran into an issue with my idle, anytime I let the gas off the rpms come down but don't stop until the engine quits and the car dies. The battery warning light comes on until I restart the engine. Right before this started happening I was driving and all of a sudden the power cut out, puttered down to 11-1400 rpms and wouldn't respond to gas pedal, I shut the car off, restarted and it continued to cut power at 1400ish rpms. Let it sit for a few minutes, restarted and the car drove like normal.
A few miles down the road it started to die when no gas was applied. The car has a VF stage 2 SC with Um E85 tune. Seems to go in and out of dieing at idle, sometimes it will be fine and sometimes it'll die. I should also mention that I threw a coolant temp sensor code and haven't had a chance to replace it yet, but when I was troubleshooting the idle issue I cleared the stored codes and the coolant temp sensor code disappeared. At least I'm getting some good practice left foot braking for the time being.
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Code 0341 (cam sensor?)On my way home epc light flashed about 5-7 times and message saying service engine. 111,000 miles and just had intake manifold replaced and plugs and coils not to long ago. I have been feeling a slight hiccup at cruising speed and twice my gti has just shut off while driving. New fuel filter as well. I searched the forum and didn't come up with anything specific. Can I just replace the cam sensor or is there more to it than that.
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I've been noticing my GTI has been making some weird noises, especially after only have 380 miles on it. When idling with the clutch engaged, it makes a rattling noise that goes away when depressed. There's also a rather loud sound coming from the timing belt and just underneath the plastic engine cover. I'm hoping it just needs breaking in, but I'd just like some reassurance that it's nothing serious.
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I thought it was just my imagination but I have since noticed a slight vibration in the car while I am stopped at a stoplights. This problem is intermittent, and not caused by sitting on a bridge or other roadway that can move. I can sit at a stoplight and turn off the Climate Control, it still vibrates. The RPMs are constant, nothing seems to be wrong other than the vibrations. The radio will be off (I turn off the techno). It looks like Jurassic Park when there is a water bottle in my cupholder. The vibration is steady in both intensity and frequency, and will not go away on its own once I notice it while stopped. The problem is pretty intermittent and I have been unable to reproduce it for a service tech.
V8 w/ 8k miles.
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Temperatures just went significantly down. Tonight it was around 45 degrees when I started my car. 1 mile down the road, refuel light went on and it said the Range was 40 miles. I was at a traffic light when suddenly the car started choking, cabin lights started dimming with the choking. I stepped on gas so that it won't die on me and raise the car's temperature; that kept the car running.
Re-fueled the car at the next gas station 1 mile down the road. Thought the choking would be gone but no, it still choked when stationary. Right then the check engine light went on too confirming that something has really gone wrong.
Drove the car for about 12 miles and then dropped the car off at the dealership - should find out what went wrong tomorrow morning. The check tire-pressure warning has been on for a week too - but that goes on every year when the temperature drops.
Car has 13500 miles and is taken very good care of - VW recommended services done at 5000 and 10000.
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2013 Prius v (wagon) Level 3: When I pull into a rest stop (“Ready” on, in “Park”) for a few hours of snooze, and the traction battery is “full” (~6 bars), it will run the AC for 60-90 minutes before the ICE starts up (at 2 bars) to recharge the battery. It recharges to 3 bars (in ~3 min) and then shuts off.
After that the ICE cycles on every 15-20 min (which is annoying) and each time it runs just long enough to charge from 2 bars to 3 bars. All of that on/off is hard to sleep through. I bought this car because it can run the AC off the battery, which it will automatically charge when low. It’s brilliant – up to a point.
Question: How do I tell the ICE to charge the traction battery from 2 bars all the way up to 6 bars again (should take ~ 15 min or so) while parked, for another whole hour+ of quiet slumber?
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My wife has said that yesterday morning (and also a couple of weeks ago), she started the car and a constant whine came from the engine area. It went a few minutes later while she was driving.
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This one has me stumped, and I can't find a rational explanation on the net but it appears to be a known problem. I have a friend with an '06 Nissan Pathfinder that has climate control with dual zones (front and rear) that fails to blow hot (in front) when the vehicle is stationary and the rear heater is on. I used to wrench for a living so I've eliminated the obvious. The front blows hot air when the vehicle is in motion and also when stationary and the rear climate controls are off. So clearly it would seem to me that the issue probably lies in the switching of ventilation ducts from hot to cold. I'm not familiar enough with the system to proffer a solution though. The way I see it it's probably a sensor at best, an issue with the climate control unit itself at worst, or some sort of bizarre mechanical malfunction involving the vents closing when they should be passing air from across the heater core to the entire interior.
I haven't spent much time diagnosing the issue mainly because I don't do it for a living anymore. Hot air comes out of the front when the car is warm, stationary, and the rear blower motor is off. My friend who isn't very technical and speaks English as a second language tells me that when the rear heat is on it blows cold in the front while the vehicle is stationary (in Park or perhaps just when stopped for an extended period i.e. at a traffic light).
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When stationary the vehicle shudders randomly as if it is cold. When moving it seems to judder and almost burst with power then lose power again, over 3000 rpm the problem becomes less of an issue but the vehicle does occasionally judder still as if the tyres have low pressure - which they don't.
At first I thought the oil may need filling up but after this the problem still persisted. I have also checked all spark plugs and no wires or tubes appear to have come loose. I read on anpther forum that the clutch have have been soaked? - If a new clutch is needed, how much that would cost?
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The engine of our 2003 Camry (4 cylinder, automatic) is making a loud rumbling noise when stationary, both in drive and in park. The rumbling can be heard and felt, especially via the brake pad, and it persists when the car is driving at below highway speeds.
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My daughter's 2004 Camry V6 has been hesitating when starting from a stationary position or when accelerating after slowing down. Dealer has been having hard time identifying cause but thinks it is an oxygen sensor. Had one sensor replaced last fall when light came on. Tech Rep says there are four sensors. At least one is bad but the other two sensors may also be bad. Is there really four oxygen sensors in the 2004 Camry? Would this cause the hesitation when accelerating?
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My daughter's 2004 Santa Fe (2.4L standard transmission) is making strange noises on start up which I think is due to a power steering issue as the noise is greater when she turns the wheel while stationary or when driving for the first 5 minutes or so until it warms up.
She came over tonight I she is about an 1 to 1.5" below the MINIMUM line on the Power Steering Reservoir.
Is there any special or proprietary Power Steering Fluid I need to be buying or what should I be buying to top this up?
I know there has been much discussion on using only Hyundai automatic transmission fluid over the years, but in this case it's for the power steering?
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I have recently purchased a 2007 Gen 2 Prius and sometimes it emits a very annoying squeak. It occurs when the car is stationary, with the brake pedal fully depressed. When inside the vehicle it seems to be coming from behind the glove box. When on the outside and facing the car it seems to be coming from below / behind the electric motor. I have made a recording of it with the noise in question being audible for a couple of seconds at 0:13, and then again at 0:22 until the end. It could be nothing I guess, but this is my first hybrid and I am not too sure what is perfectly normal and what is not.
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