Golf/GTI VII :: Full Throttle Acceleration - Slight Hesitation As Revs Climb
Jul 3, 2015
My GTI is the first FWD car I've had since 1985, so the issue that I'm having may be just me adapting to a front drive platform. Here's what's happening: when I nail the throttle in 3rd or 4th gear, on or about 4K rpm or above, the car feels as if it's hesitating slightly as the revs climb.
It accelerates fiercely (I have the JB1, and I had the Neuspeed Power Module before it, and it's reacted the same way with each mod), and it's almost as if the front end of the car is lifting and struggling for traction (although the traction control light doesn't come on).
Is what I'm experiencing normal FWD behavior? Is it the beginning of torque steer? I only notice this at full throttle--not noticeable at all at partial throttle. Also, it doesn't happen consistently. My car is a performance package manual.
View 21 Replies
Advertisement
The problem started with a slight hesitation around 2500 under hard acceleration. Then it became more pronounced from 2 to 3.5k. The CEL would blink when it happened for more than a few seconds. Eventually the CEL stayed on. Now the car idles roughly with a periodic thump feeling, and any time a load is put on the engine, it feels very rough. I don't have VAG-COM, so I don't have any codes.
View 3 Replies
I posted awhile back about my R not wanting to start. It will start, just not turn over right away, but it will start the first time. However, it feels like it's going to stall out because the revs don't climb very high at all (1k at best) when it usually goes just over 1k to start, then drops down to 5-600rpms.
Yesterday, after it sat in the hot sun for nearly 3 hours, it cranked but didn't start right away. It had started right up when I left my house to go to the gym, and I drove it 5 miles to the gym.
Then again, this morning, after it had been sitting outside all night, I went to start it and it just didn't sound right when it started, like maybe fuel wasn't getting to the engine.
The car has 31,500 miles on it, has had all recalls done, and the battery checked out last month. The battery was fine, so it's not the problem. I have been doing some research on this issue, and have come up with the following things to have the dealer check:
-fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-coil packs
-crank position sensor
-fuel pump fuse
-fuel filter
-injectors
-alternator
-starter motor
-crank angle sensor
-cam sensor
-check all grounds
-check fuses
And to top it off, I just drove it down the road and the sunroof randomly opened on its own. I have never had that happen before! Do you think the two are related at all? I'm just wanting to make sure what to tell the dealer when I drop it off later this afternoon. I ran a vag-com scan last night and there were no electrical or engine fault codes found, so I don't know what is up with it.
View 13 Replies
I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
View 19 Replies
In the past month for 3 times I've experienced problems with engine start (starter turned properly and I could hear fuel pump working). Yesterday however, I noticed that during full acceleration - at higher revs, engine suddenly loses a bit of power and at the same time you can feel kind of rattling or vibration in the engine. After letting off the gas pedal everything goes back to normal ... Besides, everything seems to be normal. Lambda control light does not light up indicating any errors. However I get a faulty knock sensor code 1-4-3. To my intuition the problem is with the ignition (but approx. 2 years ago I replaced distributor cap + rotor and the plugs + ignition wires were replaced about 3 years ago) or the amount of fuel in the mixture, but that could be caused by many things.
View 1 Replies
My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
View 13 Replies
So among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
View 1 Replies
I bought a 2009 f150 5.4 with 150000 miles on it. I have a slight hesitation from idle so I want to clean the throttle body. I found several for the older f150"s with the horizontal throttle body but this 2009 has a vertical mounted one. I change the air filter and cleaned the MAF but didn't change anything. My wife's ford 500 had this problem and cleaning the throttle body completely cured it.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0T Gas 2WD Tiptronic Auto.
I noticed a while back on a cold morning that at first start the idle would seem off a bit.
I only would notice it for about a couple of minutes and then it would smooth out as I began to drive.
Lately that still happens some but mainly I have some hesitation or slight jerking as I accelerate now.
Mainly it will do it while starting to take off slowly/ when pulling a hill/ and when having to maintain a low speed behind many other cars.
I can counter act it a bit by stepping harder on the gas pedal(when there's room) and getting the RPM to go and stay over 2000 like on the highway.
If it is under 2000 RPM you can notice it pretty well.
I am concerned as I have not had this problem before and it is very well maintained and cared for.
Though it is likely due for a tune up...
What could be the most likely cause? I don't really want to take it to the dealer first as they would want a fee beforehand just to check it out.
It had a check engine light on for just a minute one day but it did not stay on.
If it stayed on then I could get the parts store to check it using the OBDII scanner.
View 24 Replies
Last night i noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration. Today i had driven around in town for awhile and did not notice any hesitation. When i got onto the interstate I pushed down the peddle to pass someone and it did nothing, I let off the gas and back on and the car bucked pretty bad. All the way home it has issues when I pressed on the gas but did fine at cruising speed. I would think a fuel filter would have been a slow progression issue so I am thinking maybe it is a sensor. I sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum hoses today and did not notice any surge so I think I eliminated a vacuum issue.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7 149k
View 5 Replies
Last night I bought 2000 F250, 346k on it... Crew cab short bed 4x4 with ranch hand bumpers like I wanted .... Headed back home (Miami FL ~1100mi) and covered about 200 miles @70-75mph before i ran into few problems ....
First off, while cruising I noticed slight hesitation in the throttle, with loss of speed regardless of pedal pressure, noticeable on inclines. It would go away on downhill and get smooth response again and pick up speed. This went on for about 40 miles.
Then I noticed heater blower stop blowing hot and start blowing cold, without me changing any settings. At the same moment, I noticed temp gauge move up and I hit next exit offramp to check what's up. During right turn at the end of off ramp truck stalled. Pulled to the shoulder, and popped hood.
Noticed empty degass/overflow bottle. Carefully opened lid and water gushed up to the top. When all pressure slowly released, water pulled down and emptied the bottle. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are empty. Engine oil has no traces of water tho. There were no leaks under the truck. I then tried to fire up the truck to get me to the gas station 1/8th mile away.
No crank in Park. WTS comes on and goes off. Cranks in Neutral, RPMs come up some, oil pressure shoots up to normal running position, but won't fire. Tried a while then gave up as not to kill starter and batteries completely.
Fuel pump works 20 sec then shuts off. There is fuel in bowl. I covered 140 miles since last full fill up, so not fuel pickup issue I don't think.
Summary
Have crank
Have RPM
Have oil pressure
Have fuel
Have (had) batteries, now not so hot
It's cold out ....
View 14 Replies
My 2010 Prius with 140000km has developed a vibration noticeable anywhere from 50-80 km/hr when in slight acceleration (just over 1/2 on the green bars) with the ICE running. Dropping the throttle or hard acceleration makes it disappear completely - which tells me it's driveline related. It feels like its coming from the passenger side, particularly rear, but it's definitely getting worse and I can now feel it in the driver's door panel so it's becoming a major concern.
My first thought (due to the location) was a bad muffler but it's not any louder. I'm starting to worry it may be a transaxle bearing. I can't see it being a cv joint as there's no noises when cornering and everything underneath looked OK at a recent oil change. I love this car (what Prius owner doesn't?) and I sure can't afford to replace it. It's been babied since day one.
View 19 Replies
When I rev my engine while the car is parked or stopped in neutral it revs up like normal. If I am cruising down the road and drop it into neutral and try to rev up the motor its sluggish and the rpms don't want to climb as quickly.
View 14 Replies
(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
View 3 Replies
I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
View 3 Replies
2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
View 3 Replies
So I finally reached what I considered my break in period at 800 miles and now when I give the car full throttle, it shudders like it's going to stall. I can go as fast as I want at any RPMs but when I give it full throttle it nearly goes into a stall til I let off.
I do have APR STG1 and it is in the correct setting (93 OCT) I tried putting it to stock & running it like that on my drive home & still no go, check engine light is still on.
View 21 Replies
Where to find this wiring diagram? I was getting hesitation in my throttle and the EPC light kept going on.. So I did some looking and found that 2 wires pulled out of the plug in the cowl harness... There are like 5 plugs under there, and these 2 wires were pulled clean.. So I cant tell which one goes to which... I know its definitely part of the 4 wires going to my pedal...
View 2 Replies
Have any other PP 6MT owners experienced strange throttle hesitation while shifting with a APR 1.2 HO tune? I know what turbo lag feels like, but it is almost as if the throttle position is not being read for 1-2 seconds after shifting.
No matter how hard/fast I shift, I can't get the tires to chirp, even shifting at high RPM. When I watch my speedo after shifting, the needle does not move at all until the delay ends, and of course it moves fast when the boost builds. But for 1-1.5 seconds after shifting, with the pedal to the floor, I would expect some acceleration, even not at full boost.
Even when not shifting, and going from no throttle to medium/full throttle, there is a delay with no acceleration and no significant noise/rev build.
I don't remember this being as pronounced before I was tuned. Also, I had GFB DV+ installed about the same time, but I would expect the DV+ to make this better, not worse.
View 3 Replies
Noticed A Slight Hesitation On Take off?
View 23 Replies
I finally decided to take my car in to the dealership for this random split second hesitation that mostly happens in first gear. I have 8600 miles on the car and it has done it since the day I bought it. I thought it might have been compressor related from running the AC. I have tried driving with no AC and ESP off and it still does it.
So I take it in and they decided to let the new guy work on my car. I take him on a ride (AC and ESP off) and sure enough it does it nice and strong for him to feel it. I was happy so we went back to the dealership and they gave me a 2.slow rental and I was on my way. 24 hours later they call and tell me, "Ron we believe it might be your throttle body so we're waiting on the regional master tech to get his opinion before we put a $750 part on your car".
I'm like "ok, whatever you say, just call me tomorrow with an update because I don't want it back till it's fixed". They call me the next day to inform me that my brake light switch was faulty ($10.25), they replaced my wiper blades, adjusted my wiper arms and the car was ready to be picked up.
Now that I have it back I can say driving it now that it's acting normal is an adjustment. My mind expect that hiccup but it doesn't happen, at least not most of the time. I'm not completely convinced that this hesitation is gone because I think I felt it happen once yesterday. Time will tell... In the mean time it is 95% cured.
View 24 Replies
