Golf/GTI VII :: Engine Throwing CEL After Startup
May 10, 2015
I'd rate my car knowledge at about a 6.5 - I can do my own brakes / rotors / replace lights / O2 senors / etc. For whatever that's worth. I have not modified this vehicle performance-wise at all as yet. My '11 GTI has suddenly started throwing a CEL after startup, as pictured below:
It causes the engine to run oddly for a few moments after ignition, and then seems to correct itself as I drive more. In fact, the light will occasionally go off entirely. The engine runs unevenly, and the CEL will occasionally blink as the error occurs. I have one of these neato code readers which links up with my phone, so I checked that out and came up with these:
and
I couldn't figure out how to format them to be smaller. I've checked into some of these errors. They seem to be related to the O2 sensors (pre/post cat)- I had a similar issue on my Integra, and I needed to swap out and o2 sensor, and then all was well.
I guess the root of my questions is: Does this look like I need to swap out sensors? Which ones / why? Is there a simpler cleaning procedure that I might try before going the full distance?
I'm due an emission inspection at the end of the month, and I seem certain to fail unless I can resolve this issue.
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Just started getting this noise recently when I start the car. It's coming from the engine bay and only occurs briefly for maybe a second, mainly when the engine is warm. It's a rattle sound. Other than the rattle, the car runs great..
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Started happening yesterday. If I start the car I get 3 very distinct clunking sounds that I can also feel in both the clutch pedal and brake pedal. Then the car runs fine. No other issues I can find while driving, even driving a little aggressive. Then when I shut off the car I get the same clunking/shaking that I can feel in the pedals and hear. Sounds like something is broken but I can't figure out what. Only happens as the engine goes from 0 to idle or idle or 0.
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I have a MT '12 Golf 2.5L with around 8k miles. I always park with the transmission in neutral. When I first start it up in the morning, the engine revs high, around 1500RPM, so I can clearly hear the engine inside the car. I start it, it revs up and holds, and when I release the clutch I hear what sounds like a rev, but the tach doesn't move.
I believe the GTI doesn't need the clutch depressed for the entire turn over, but the Golf does, so I have to hold it until the engine is running. It may not be a big deal, but I'm just wondering why releasing the clutch in neutral would make a noise. I don't hear it any other time than at start up.
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I just has a gen 2 haldex and wireless controller installed. 10 minutes of driving around getting on it in sport mode, I feel a thunk from the back and when slowing down a few odd shudders. Drove it cautiously a bit more and felt fine, then harder and harder. Felt better, no understeer, seemed ok.
Got home and scanned with Vagcom, got the errors below, cleared DTC and scanned again, same errors.
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: HW0 5Ha lde x
Component: Tuning
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 5AB1BED4953067CEBA7-800F
2 Faults Found:
16347 - Control Module - EEPROM Error
014 - Defective
02248 - Valve for Controlling Clutch Operating Angle (N373)
014 - Defective
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I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
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On start up I constantly get a almost dial up Internet connection sounding noise coming from my engine (2.5)? I've been told that it could be from the cold weather ,,,,
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I recently had an issue with a coolant leak. the Y shaped coolant line connection went bad located under the power steering reservoir. The car got hot and the coolant light came on i immediately turned the car off and saw coolant leaking out from this.
Now today I start my car it has a rough idle and dies once it dies it doesn't start again and the epic light comes on throwing the codes
17579 P1171 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Range/Performance
17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low
16497 P0113 Intake Air Temp.Circ High Input
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started
17953 P1545 Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction
17976 P1568 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. mechanical Malfunction
18012 P1604 Internal Control Module Driver Error
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Throwing 2 codes -
P0172: too rich
P1176: post cat 02 reached limit
Last time it turned on it had horrible air flow, it felt as though it was choking. definitely not a misfire. occasionally after spirited driving the engine would die after I came to a complete stop then worsened to cutting off when I put the clutch in at high rpms. also have a slight loss of power. I also recently added a 3" tbe and changed coil packs.
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I am stage 1 tuned and just have simple bolt ons. About a year and a half ago i had my CEL come on and it was P2400. I was still under warranty and took it into the dealer. They ran through the whole eval system along with replace my evap pump and the CEL was still on. Well then they replaced the ECU and all was fixed. that following fall i took it to APR to get ref lashed and all was well. Until 2 weeks ago. The CEL is back on throwing the same code. I believe its the ECU again and I'm waiting to get into APR to have them fix whatever it is. They believe its evap but I'm not convinced.
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So my car has been dropping multiple codes after I scanned her and found all five: p0303, p1128, p0172, p1300, p0301. She is just a simple five speed AEG and has no mods other than a SRI. I already replaced the MAF but that ended up causing more codes and I have checked the vacuum lines to no avail.
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So recently I took my engine apart to do a valve cover gasket and Ecs tuning 2.0 coil conversion. I noticed a good amount of oil in the plug tubes so I got out my trusty soap dispenser and started pumping out oil. Pulled plugs and cleaned them (wanted to make sure oil was all out b4 getting new) also while I had it apart I wanted to take intake off, ( just to polish it and clean out any carbon inside).. Well I never ended up doing that. I removed the injector connections and realized it was to much work for such little satisfaction. So I plugged the injectors back in.
I got my car all back together and now I'm throwing 6 cel codes!! P0102 (maf) which I'm assuming b.c I took it off for so long, p0201, p0202 ( injector 1 and 2 miss), then some misfire codes p0300 (random) p0301 (cylinder 1) and p0304 (cylinder 4). The car starts runs very rough then cel comes on and blinks. I was thinking maybe the oil getting down to the combustion chamber couldn't be the best for it but it would just burn off. Only other thing I did was take off the thottle body and cleaned it.
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I own a 2003 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L 4 Cylinder and my CEL recently came on throwing the PO420 code (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)). So I replaced both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Well just one day after replacing the sensors the CEL came back on with the same code. I was wondering weather or not I should replace the whole catalytic converter or if there was anything else I should try. The car runs fine, exactly how it did when I bought it.
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I have a 03 GLI 24v VR6 thats throwing a P0113 code, which is for the intake air temperature sensor. The sensor is part of the MAF sensor, ive tried 2 brand new BOSCH MAF sensors yet the same check engine continues to reoccur. Is there anything else that oculd be triggering it to come on? Is there anyway to bypass/disable it through vagcom?
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Last weekend I installed a usp test pipe with a hfc welded in and now I am throwing the code p0160......
What this is and maybe some ways that I can fix it?? I have a hard time believing an o2 sensor is shot since the car only has ~27k miles....
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A couple months ago I was hearing a hissing noise under the hood throwing the same code replaced the Valve cover, after there was no issues. Yesterday saw I had CEL and I was throwing P0174 code and there is a similar vacuum leak sound coming from under the hood but the Breather in the valve cover is not sucking in air. The Oil cap comes off but the engine starts to bog, what it could be now?
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What I need to do to fix these codes
p0171 system too lean bank 1
p2637 torque management
p0420 ...
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The car doesn't seem to run that rough.
Replaced coil pack and spark plug wires with parts from O'reilly auto
16684 - Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0300 - 35 -10 - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 35 - 10 - misfire detected - intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 35 - 10 - misfire detected - intermittent
I have searched and browsed multiple websites and threads to no avail. They all seem to be dead ends.
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So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
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Had the tail lights coded for at a local shop.. realized as I was leaving that the reverse lights are throwing an error. Can these be coded for? Now that the car recognizes the tails as LED, is the error coming from the incandescent? Should I replace the bulbs with low pulling LEDs without resistors? As for the fog, do I have to replace the bulb as well? No euro switch or wiring done. Basically, how do I get rid of the error.
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I'm working on a 2003 Jetta GLI 1.8t (MT and 140,000m if it matters). The CEL has been on for a couple of weeks because of an exhaust leak throwing a catalyst efficiency code. After I make this post I'm going to run down to the advance auto I used to work at & see if I can borrow the scanner to see if there's anything new, but as of right now I don't know. I'll update the thread if I find anything.
The car started yesterday AM perfectly fine. Started again when I left work around noon. No problems with the start, idle, acceleration.. it's all good.
3 hours later I tried to start it to go pick up my kid from school but it just cranked without firing and would not start. I took care of business with the kiddo and then started trying to pin down the problem.
1. Opened the door & listened for the fuel pump to prime.. No sound.
2. Noticed the dome light is on.
3. Checked ALL of the fuses on the side of the dash.. All are fine. Turned key to listen for secondary prime.. no sound.
4. Bought Fuel pump relay & replaced.. no change.
5. Cursed.. a lot
6. Bought fuel pump.. replaced.. no change.
7. Cursed a lot more.. and cried a little too.
8. Noticed the fuel pump was now priming with the key being turned, but still not when I open the door.. Dash indicates the known CEL, but now I notice that the EPC light is on too (this could be from all the fruitless cranking drawing down the battery charge)
9. Figured I'd throw in a new crank angle sensor cuz of the EPC.. no change.
10. Shot starting fluid down the intake.. didn't hit a lick.
I feel like I'm at a dead end.. It's acting like a bad ignition control module, but there's no such thing on a vw 1.8t.
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