Golf/GTI VII :: Engine Lugging Noise At 40 - 50 MPH In D Mode Fully Automatic
Oct 8, 2014
Mk7 GTI DSG is very uncomfortable to drive at speed between 40-50 Mph in "D" Mode. You can very clearly feel/hear Engine Lugging/Clutch slippage noise because the DSG slips in to 6th gear and the RPM goes below 1200. the noise become more pronounced if it is going up the hill or the A/C unit is on. The throttle response becomes really really slow. Clearly it is not in the right gear, use the paddle shifter to go down one notch it will be ok. So VW gives you two choices , drive like a maniac in DSG-S mode or drive like severely handicapped two legged tortoise.
It goes away if you are above and below the 40-50 mph range. Why would VW design a power train with such a serious flaw I cannot understand, considering all the small roads in USA force you to drive at that speed range. I did contact VW about this and the response is " it is as designed to improve MPG". Also every GTI reviewer in North America never mentions any of this. I just dont know what they review/Test drive, All are bunch of lap dogs and paid trolls of VW. How do i fix this annoying problem, I am afraid that this will damage the Engine/Clutch pack in the long run.
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So there seems to be an issue with the sunroof already ( 2 weeks since ownership) . In UP/ DOWN mode it will not fully close and causes wind noise. With up down I'm referring to the tilt functionality. I don't get the message sunroof open when leaving vehicle however.
The work around is for me to open the sunroof in the horizontal mode and then close it again to get a proper seal and to eliminate wind noise. In the image you can see that the rear part of the moonroof sits lower than the metal roof....
Read the manual. performed reset. The reset made no difference. So basically to remedy the situation one either must open and close the sunroof or after closing it from tilt mode bump the button to make the moon roof rear part raise and become flush with the roof panel.
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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So i have been noticing a lugging/clunking sound when accelerating from turning.
I say it sounds like that because its almost like when a noob driving is trying to shift and stalls for not giving enough gas. but this is comming from the back and for the longest i thought it was due to the ESP kicking in but i been driving quite calm lately due to blow shocks.
I wish I could get a sound clip but its only when driving. Is that normal? Prolly not but hear something when it engages? I am on a OEM haldex controller atm.
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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The problem is, say I'm going around a 90-degree turn and I'm going 10 miles an hour and the engine stays in 2nd gear it does not want to pick up speed until it gets into the power band. Even if I am in overdrive and want to pick up speed it will kind of hesitate until it down shifts to 3rd then it will take off . Same thing when I am in second going to slow trying to take off, if I floor it it will down shift to first and take off like a rocket.
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Heading out on 4 week 3k mile road trip. Have 12v adaptors for a very efficient laptop and smartphone.
It seems that in "Accessory" mode the PIP is using only the dinky 12V battery so this is not a healthy solution. Is there a recommended strategy to put the car in semi-ready mode and reduce all possible drain so that utilizing the 12V will not be draining the traction battery reserves much at all?
I'm thinking that perhaps trying to put the car in "ready" mode with the FOOT OFF the brake indeed fires up access to the traction battery without firing up other things that require the full power monty that Ready mode with the FOOT ON the brake requires. Seems to me the PIP is a great mobile office solution if we could gain access to traction battery reserves without running much else.
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About twice a year I am noting a too soon change of gears on automatic mode. This may be the fourth time it happens is just coming and going by itself.
I notice that when driving on constant traffic and going about 40mph I'm doing 5th gear so when traffic clears up I have to really step on the gas so car downgrades to catch up with traffic. What may be happening?
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I have been having trouble with the shift solenoid and the trans going into limp mode. I recently replaced the shift solenoid and I now have the same problem but just when the temp outside is above 90 F or when I sit in traffic or idle for more than 3 or 4 minutes. The same code p0758 comes back up. I was thinking maybe the temp sensor?
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I was driving around some very steep hilly highways recently. I have tried this in both cruise control and normal coasting.
I noticed that the Tiguan will automatically downshift when going down a steep enough incline and a certain higher speed is automatically reached. Whether that is based on what was set by your cruise control, or even when letting the car coast down by releasing the gas peddle, it will still reach a point of downshifting automatically.
What I hate about it though is that this downshifting causes the engine to suddenly rev very high RPMs. Its also pretty loud at that point. That's bad for the transmission system right?
Usually in automatic mode driving, gear shifts up at around 2,500 RPM (mostly around 2000 RPM point). But when you are going downhill in a steep incline, the Tiguan automatically goes to a lower gear causing the RPM to shoot right up. I've had mine go up to 4,000 RPM downhill and the engine screams and spins really fast as you can clearly hear. It of course does the job of keeping the car at a certain speed, but is this bad for the transmission?
I mean, I prefer pressing on the breaks to control speed downhill. Break pads are cheap and easily replaceable. Transmission strain and failure is a whole other business. So I would prefer the strain be placed on my breaks and not my transmission system for the purposes of controlling speeds downhill. The latter failure mode will be the case if they rely on the transmission to control speed downhill.
So what is a "happy RPM" for the engine anyway? What RPM is the 2.0T engine at its most efficient?
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I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2007. have recently had problems with the car not want to start in P mode on the automatic gear box.
It starts as usual in the N mode instead.
Looking for recognize the error, what could it be? A sensor, fuse, or what?
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I need to select AC on when running in the automatic mode. I get from the manual that when I select Auto the system will maintain the selected temperature.
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Experienced an accidental shift from automatic to sports mode when attempting to "park" your Sonata? It happened to me last weekend. My car shot forward like a torpedo, doing considerable damage, not just to my car but to others as well. I have often thought it takes no effort to switch to the sports mode, but have never used it. Now I wish it were not available.
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1987 Buick LeSabre V6 w/automatic transmission. Suddenly getting a fairly loud "knock" from somewhere in the engine area. Only present at low rpm or idle, goes away at higher rpm's. Does not seem to be related to vehicle movement. "May" change some with gear shifting but can not really tell. Oil is full and no "idiot" light warning. Timing belt recently changed. Car seems to run fine, just making noise. Any clues???
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I'm driving home from work around 10:15pm and driving around 45mph; I switch my car from the manual mode to automatic and all of a sudden my car skids 40 feet and just stops. No lights on the dash, just completely stops and locks up the rear tires. I am in the middle of the road at this point and try to restart the car and put it into drive and the car just jolts forward and makes a grinding noise. I was still in shock at the moment, and a cop pulls behind me and asks me what is going on and I tell him the situation. He says he needs to call a tow truck to move the car. I brought it home and now I don't know what to do. The car is a lexus 2007 gs350 awd with about 104k miles, I don't think the car should just stop while driving 45 mph and come to a skidding stop.
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Quick observation: with the exhaust brake switch off, I notice it appears that the exhaust brake is still working automatically when you are in Tow/Haul mode and apply the brakes coming down a hill.
I notice the engine drone and turbo boost gauge rise...although neither the drone nor the boost are as noticeable as when the switch is turned on.
I know the 2011-2014 had "auto exhaust brake only" but it appears some of that functionality is still built in.
Another question: what is the consequence of turning the exhaust brake on and leaving it on for normal driving? Is mpg affected? Engine output? Engine wear?
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I've noticed a bit of noise when the R is in manual mode, upshifting from 1st to 2nd. It can hear a bit of a clunk with the windows up or down (obviously a bit more pronounced windows down). It never makes the noise in "D", and maybe 50% of the time in "M".
No other noises that I can tell, from upshifts to downshifts in any other gear. Just the manual 1st to 2nd shift. Trans seems smooth, already had a Mech replacement.
Should I be concerned, or even take it to the dealer? I'd take a video, but I dont' think the mic on my phone would even pick up the sound. It's definitely there though...
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Hear a vibration kind of noise coming from the engine when accelerating in 4-6 gear at a lower RPM? It ONLY seems to happen in sport mode with the soundakator on. Normal mode it doesn't. I thought maybe flutter but I'm not flooring it in low RPM/high gear... even just halfway throttle.
I should say I have a JB1 and K&N drop-in installed.
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So since I added the spark cut tune, I've had this weird buzzing noise when it's down gearing. It doesn't do it in D though which is odd. What could be wrong?
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I know it is possible to go to "Accessory" mode without starting the engine. However, is there a way to stop the engine but stay in "Accessory" mode?
I started copying music from the SD card to the HDD. When I got to my destination, it copied maybe 150 of 200 songs. It would have been nice if I was able to stop the engine without disrupting power to the accessories and let it finish copying instead of having to start over again or having to leave the engine running.
Apparently, you can do it with a quick "tap" on a Nissan system. Is this possible with KESSY?
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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