Golf/GTI VII :: Engine Cutting Out At 5000 RPM Under WOT
Apr 15, 2015
I'm hoping it's nothing, maybe bad gas.
View 6 RepliesI'm hoping it's nothing, maybe bad gas.
View 6 RepliesYesterday when I started up the engine it cut out and died on me a number of times. The engine would start but it would not hold the idle for more than about 10 seconds, then it would quickly drop down to about 500rpm and die. It felt like it was starved for fuel. I pressed on the accelerator to try and give it more gas, but it was a bit unresponsive. Car did this for about 5 or 6 times and then on the last time I was able to give it gas and keep the rpm up around 2,000, then it went back to working normally.
Car was warmed up and it had been parked for about an hour after a prior 30 minutes of normal driving.
There were no error codes thrown up or messages on the dash. Is this a sign of something that I need to be concerned about? Where would I even start looking for a problem? If this a something that would be covered under warranty I want find it sooner than later so I can get it fixed while I still have coverage.
Car is a 2012 MK6 GTI DSG with 17,000 mi.
I have noticed this problem off and on over the course of the last year and a half. Last night we had a ridiculous rain here in Longview, TX. and my power cut out at my apt. I decided to go to the girlfriends house, and on the way, kinda took it easy, just because I am paranoid about hydrolock due to having AEM intake.
The problem only happens at WOT. I did this once and then really took it easy the rest of the way there. The engine really seems to cut out though, and the car bucks like a bronco.
Get to her house, park it, hang there for a couple of hours. Driving home I just took it easy, the rain was done, and it was fairly late. The esp light came on 1-2 minutes into the ride home, and stayed on all the way there.
Parked, slept, started up for work the next morning. Dry. No problems at all.
Now what I am wondering is if maybe some water is getting into a connector perhaps grounding out a circuit? And since the ESP light is coming on, maybe the haldex connector? I know there have been threads about ate up connectors due to corrosion, but I don't know if that could throw the system off so much as to cause the engine to "choke".
Currently the car has 75k miles on her.
Last weekend I drove 200 miles non-stop. 4 times the throttle died on me, the engine returned to idle and the throttle pedal wouldn't do anything for 3-4 seconds. Then the car acted like everything was fine. No CEL, ABS, or traction lights. Scanned the car, NO CODES. This happened to my GTI 24V VR6 couple months before I sold it. VR6 issue?!? Checked VCDS and the engine has NO misfires whatsoever.
View 23 RepliesI got 4 cyl 2009 sonata and i have a problem when standing still can't REV the engine above 5000 RPM but when driving it does, even if i put it in N mode it does. but when standing still it won't REV higher than the 5000 RPM.
View 7 Replies230 miles and I have one question. I'm braking in the R slowly and haven't really hit the RPM's in a crazy way but when I go from say 3000-5000 RPM I hear a vibration along with the nice sounding exhaust. It happens in each gear if i take it that high.
I'm thinking it's maybe a heat shield or something? Have any of you experienced this or maybe have heard of this symptom.
Other than this issue, the car is the bomb! My R is not numbered? Isn't the number on the steering wheel?
I have a 2011 GTI, with an apr chip and apr intake stage 1. Car is brand new 4000 miles
When hitting boost in 3rd-6th gear i hear a fluttering sound between 3500rpm and 5000rpm after 5000rpm the sound either dissipates or is drowned out by the motor.
I've done a lot of research around this sound and i havent been able to find a certain answer, it could be compression surge (i wouldn't see why), a leaky DV ( also cant see why because the 2011 has the new revision D piston actuated DV), A fluttering wastegate.
Sage 1 apr chip and stage 1 apr intake...
When I purchased my 2010 mk6 about 3 weeks ago there was a noise in the dash board when ever the RPM's pasted 5,000 It sounds like a rattling noise from the intake or something. So i put a stage 2 APR intake, Magnaflow cat back exhaust and a AWE tune. After all that work the rattling noise is still there and is driving me crazy. I love the car but there's gotta be a way to get rid off the noise ...
View 9 RepliesI was running in a track day at Sebring today and missed a shift. Rookie move...the car eventually went into limp mode. I took the car back to the pits and scanned the codes. Limp mode was confirmed in addition to a cylinder 4 misfire and a random/intermittent misfire. Cleared the codes and went back out; couldn't even finish the lap before the car was thrown back into limp mode.
I was able to hobble home by keeping the car out of boost and started trouble shooting. So far I have ruled out spark plugs and coils. Should I be looking at the injector next? Any chance I bent a valve? The misfire can be triggered by putting the car under a load and bringing it up to 5,000 RPMs or higher.
My GTI has started to bog out, i guess is the best way to describe... As I am trying to accelerate on the highway my RPMs rev up to 5000 till I get any response to amount of gas I am giving. It will dramatically drop to 3000 without letting off the gas. then gradually will accelerate, untypical to way it use to perform. She respond this way cold or hot.
View 7 RepliesMy CW R has 12k of combined mileage primarily in D/S with some aggressive Topanga Canyon driving in M. While sprinting onto the 405 the other night a resonant metallic buzz/vibration was audible between 4800-5000rpms in 3rd & 4th gear! The sound is coming from below the shifter console area. I can't reproduce it in any other gears or rpm range.
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 3.9v6 auto trans does not shift properly. I have to lift my foot off the accelerator for it to shift. If I don't it just screams at a high RPM and sounds as if it is about to blow. It has a hard time making it up a small incline such as an overpass. Truck will not shift properly when going upgrade. Engine will rev at 4500-5000 rpm but will not shift until I slightly release the gas pedal. Truck will also perform multiple hard up shifts when in cruise control going upgrade.
Took the truck to the dealer reprogrammed the computer with a "flash update" that was no dice. The technician is now saying the original shifting problem is normal because dodge reprogrammed the transmission to avoid multiple up & down shifting when going up a grade. This was down to put "less stress" on the transmission. Doesn't make sense, dodge is saving the transmission by making it work less and destroying the engine by letting it rev at 5000 rpm. Automatic transmission will not shift to third gear unless the gas pedal is almost fully released. Transmission will not downshift to pass.
My Mk4 2000 Jetta 2.slow has been acting up, a week ago I went to pick something up from my fathers house and a minute later I cam back to start it to only have the idle strange,it as well the throttle being all sorts of weir till it cut out and I had to push it into the drive way. I has the coil pack tested, and it was measured to be right where it needed to buy. I then bought starting fluid and after spraying it into the air intake it started. I had it running till it cut out and had to redo it again. Then when driving home again after putting more in it stopped, I was able to start it again keep moving for another ten second before having it stop again. I am receiving no check engine lights, alternator is good and as wel as the battery.
View 10 RepliesSo I just installed a boost gauge. Vacuum line is running off the fuel pressure regulator. My boost is now not going over 10 psi and the engine is cutting out. It kinda feels like the dv isn't holding psi but just always open. The car is a 05 gli with intake and exhaust.
Also the car seems to be running alright at below 2000 rpm and it just starts to cut out when it should be making boost. And I'm pretty sure this car is reprogrammed because yesterday when I finished the boost gauge install it was running at19 psi.
My jetta has been cutting off at stop lights ... I've been reading all of the posts here and come to the conclusion that I needed to replace the crankshaft position sensor...once I found the sensor, hours later...I was able to remove it...it's been a week now, and the car runs great!
View 2 RepliesI recently replaced my SAI pump rivets with stainless bolts so everything is nice and tight. However, the pump will randomly cut on and run for a few seconds while driving... i notice it usually when I come to a stop, such as at a stop light. I would assume this is because there is an air leak somewhere in the SAI system... sound likely? Maybe purge valve? I haven't yet had it pressure tested in case there is something I can easily to to rule out most potential sources.
View 8 Replies2004 GTI VR6 24V Manual trans. My son's GTI has an intermittent problem that I think will be hard to pinpoint because it is intermittent. I will hopefully have more info this afternoon. Three time now after driving about 20 miles the car will cut off. Usually while slowing down to a stop or to make a turn. So far it has run great at highway speeds.
It has some random symptoms. I drove it to work and it happened to me. The first time I had slowed to about 20 to make a turn and it cut off. I made the turn and let out the clutch and it bump started and I made it to my work parking lot. While turning into the lot it cut off again so I coasted into a parking spot. This part has me puzzled it would not crank the starter. I moved the gear selector to every gear and nothing. I put it in reverse and the starter would crank but would not start.
Came back about an hour later and it started fine and acted like nothing wrong. Drove it home and again about 20 miles and it cut off again. This time it would crank in all gears but would not start. This time the EPC light came on. Left the car and came back later that night and it started fine, EPC light off and drove the last two mile home no problem. I am borrowing a friend from work computer with the VAGCOM software and hopefully will have more info.
My gas filler keeps cutting the pump off and car runs bad in certain situations. I'm a vrt btw so I have eliminated the Sai crap and have the n80 solenoid detached from the vac lines but still hooked in electrically. EVAP Charcoal canister Delete....
View 17 RepliesWhat's the deal with making fuel filters difficult to replace? My engine has started sputtering (cutting in and out) and I began to wonder if it was the fuel filter. So, I investigated how to change it. Apparently it's part of the fuel pump and located in the fuel tank -- good grief.
A filter is there to catch stuff, and if it catches stuff it can get clogged, if it gets clogged it has to be replaced. It appears they put in the filter to catch stuff but assumed it never would.
Had driven about 3 miles, engine warmed up. Stopped at the store for about 5 minutes and cut motor off. I started engine, put in drive and after about 20 ft., the motor cut off. Luckily I was in a parking lot and coasted to a stop. Started up again and everything seemed ok. One thing I did notice was after the cutoff, all dash icons, (oil, brake, engine, etc) were on. I especially noticed the key icon, indicating key was not in car, was on. What happened? Is this something that I should have the dealer look at? I doubt they could ever replicate it.
View 13 RepliesI have APR Stage I+ and love it. However, I've noticed at around 6000 rpm I'm getting what feels like the fuel pump cutting out like you would experience when you hit redline. Of course, stock redline is higher than 6000 and APR Stage I+ redline is even higher. So this shouldn't be happening.
View 24 Replies