My dsg shifter feels tight from p to r to n etc. I have a torque mount insert. That is not related correct? Just wanted to know before I bring it to the dealer and have them replace the shifter.
View 4 RepliesI'm looking at purchasing a 2003 F-350 from a Ford Dealer, Drove the Vehicle last night and the Gear shiftier was very tight and hard to pull down. Is this a real concern? The Sales guys said its better to be stiff rather than sloppy. But they will say anything, right. The vehicle is a deal and so I'm looking to find out why.
View 1 RepliesI recently changed the bushings and installed SS kit. I don't know if this was the case before, but now while in any gear, i can still move it approx half inch to the right and half inch to the left.
I checked everything and all screws are tight. Could it be that the shifter cables need adjustment?
Does the latching mechanism on hatch have a little play in it or is it tight. I would like to get some info before I tear into the hatch trim to see if it needs to be tightened up a bit.
View 10 RepliesIt's not entirely repeatable but only happens on tight left turns under deceleration such as a u-turn or turning left into a parking spot. The noise is a continuous whirring like a bit of plastic is rubbing the front passenger tire tread and continues for a moment even as I straighten the wheel out. I'm going to take the wheel off tomorrow to change my brake fluid and will take a closer look then. I'm on stock suspension and wheels.
View 1 RepliesSo I got my Haldex fluid and DSG fluid changed two weeks ago. When I picked the car up I noticed a vibration when I was making tight turns. Last week I called the dealer and told them. They said to drive it a bit more to see if it works it self out. But now after getting back from H2Oi, it still is doing it but not as bad.
Its a vibration you can feel and a rumble you can hear when making a tight turn at slow speed. Like turning into a parking space or turning at a stop sign. What would this be? I searched but couldn't find an exact answer.
When I drive in a parking lot or parking garage and start off into a slow, tight corner, I feel a "surge". If I had a locked diff I would understand. I have a Haldex composition controller. I am not bothered about it...just wondering what it could be. Maybe the clutch slipping?? No evidence of that at full throttle acceleration runs in the higher gears.
View 5 RepliesSo i was driving home from work yesterday and out of no where i couldnt get the shifter to get over to 1st or 2nd gear. i had to wiggle it around and push down on the shift knob and it eventually went over. Happened a few more times yesterday and like twice on my way to work today. It feels kind of sticky or something, not really moving as freely as it used to. What could be causing this?
View 6 RepliesOkay, my shifter rod got spun, and now it doesn't want to go into any gears. Just freely kinda swirls, and you can't push down. The guy working on the car wants to pull the shift box down and see what is going on. He thinks the shift cable or selector cable is broke.
View 5 RepliesThe car came with a EIP Short Shifter. It is short, but seems to be having some problems. Is it normal to feel like I have to really try and get it into gear? I like being able to shift and not "muscle" it in.
I don't know how to put it. It takes so much effort that in a "track" scenario I do not see how this could even be used. Does that make sense?
A bigger a more worrying problem is that on high rpm shifts (5k+) 3rd gear will sometimes grind unless I REALLY slam dunk it in.
This is keeping me from really "driving" the car. My damn Volvo sedan could be romped on harder. It didn't fight me. Is this some crazy EIP thing?
The issue with the car is that the tranny won't go into any gear. With clutch in or out. I had very little play left or right or up and down. Not sure what could be wrong. The car has 120k miles and no mods.
View 2 RepliesOut of nowhere the car wont go into 5th, so I need to check the cables adjustment and if that doesn't work go from there. This car as of now is nothing more than a daily driver, never driven hard. I bought it last June with 40k on it and as of today it sits at 68k. Happened Friday worked fine on the commute to work, but on the way home once I got on the highway I noticed it would not engage 5th. Does not grind, pop, or anything. It is like the shifter goes into 5th but the cable has been shortened to not engage. This may be the issue but reverse, and 1st-4th work great with no issues.
I also read about the narrow oiling holes for the 5th gear and they are very easy to starve when temperatures get too low, which it has been roughly 0-15* here. I also read that the seal on the transmission gear shift unit (0A4301230H) can get worn out and allow back and forth play in the shift unit. Lastly the 5th gear is pretty weak and teeth like to shear off.
I had installed new shifter bushings the week I bought the car, and the fluid was flushed and replaced with Liqui Moly and their MoS2 additive about 5k miles ago. I'm hoping it is just the cables out of alignment due to the cold, but if not I will explore the options, as I have priced out all of the replacement parts and it'll be around $1k to replace the gear, 5th synchros, shift fork, and the gear shift unit. So a 02Q might not be out of the question.
I tried to manually pull up on the selector and move it right into the 5th position. Would not engage, so I am lead to believe that something is either wrong with the selector shaft of the transmission or the 5th gear itself.
This is my first DSG car and I find it un-natural to push the stick forward as I am accelerating then pull it backwards to downshift.
I feel that I would prefer to pull back when accelerating 1-2-3-4 and then push forward as I am decelerating 4-3-2-1...
Is there a way to modify the direction with Vag-Com or other?
Ok so I was putting a drill bit into the home slot under the shifter boot. I didn't realize it was so deep and the piece dropped all the way down the hole. Is this bad? If so, what can I do to get in there and get it?
View 5 RepliesI recently noticed a rattling coming from my intake manifold and with little research I discovered it was the intake shifter rod. I ordered the new updated bushings and installed them today and the rod continues to rattle just as bad. My car only has 90k and I am unsure what to do to fix the noise. I am hesitant to order a whole new shifter rod because it could be the manifold itself too worn. I am just curious if there is anything that I may have overlooked or if there is anything I can do.
View 4 RepliesHow do you remove the shifter box from the center console for the 5 speed mk6? how do you drop it out of the car?
View 1 RepliesThere is only one DIY i can find that is still alive. I have a megan short shifter. Its already half way in. I just don't have any instructions and i am kind of at a loss as to where i go from here. Does this shifter change the way my reverse gear will be engaged? I mean will i need to pull the trigger up to go in reverse or will i still push down? Does the spring that came with the kit go under the sleeve or above it? Sounds confusing.
View 3 RepliesI have the 20th anniversary GTI with the 6-speed manual at 90k miles
I have the Dieselgeek Short shifter installed so for the most part my shifter is nice and tight/precise. However, I have some play in the shifter while it is in gear and I understand that this is normal for a car as it ages. But I assumed that the Dieselgeek would've solved all the gear slop in my shifter, and I was wrong.
So is there a part I can replace to tighten it back up?
When the car is in gear it's great! Or at least it seems great. However, trying to place the Shift Lever in the car into the gear "slots?" is troublesome.
It feels as though there is a wall in the way for each gear, and i have to force my way through the wall. It's not absolutely Terrible, for i've been driving like this for months. But i want a smother shift! I want to be able to just slide the Shift Lever into gear without any hangups or major resistance.
Double Clutching seems to work, however it might just be from the small loss of RPMs through the process of double clutching.
Personally I would rather not have to double clutch just to see a slight improvement. I have big feet and they constantly are rubbing on the floor mat as well as the plastic above the pedals, so double clutching always feels like i'm wedging my foot into a hole, then back out and in, before i can go into another gear lol.
The problem is only a real issue when i'm in higher RPMs giving the car more gas. I.E. after a fast launch in first, shifting even around 5500 puts a WALL up on second gear making it impossible for me to get it into second gear, after not getting it into second i usually throw it in third, and essentially lose all the acceleration i had from the first gear launch.
As well is there anyway to make the clutch a little stiffer? She grabs fine, i just like stiffer clutch, it requires less of me trying to wedge my huge foot on the pedal.
It's an un-molested MKIV Jetta VR6 with 167k.
I'm having a problem with the intake manifold shifter not working on my r32. I've tried all of the normal fixes, the shifter rod itself and the vacuum diaphragm that opens it are both functioning correctly, all of the vacuum lines are new and not leaking. Connecting vacuum directly to the diaphragm causes the shifter to immediately open. I've tried 3 different solenoids with the same result, all open when 12v is directly applied, but the manifold doesn't open at it's RPM point like it's supposed to. The solenoid sees a constant ~11v under all conditions, regardless of engine RPM. I've traced this wire back to the ECU and confirmed it's not damaged. No CEL other than for the SAI missing.
At this point, I'm assuming whatever circuit that controls this in the ECU is fried (cruise control doesn't work either.) I have an extra 24v vr6 (2.8) ECU sitting around which from what I've read uses the same hardware, just a different flash. This may be a stupid question, but if I were to take this to UM to get a performance flash, would I be able to basically overwrite the 2.8 ECU and make this work in the R? Would there be any issues with the immobilizer?
So after installing the short throw shifter I ran into an issue. My reverse is actually first gear, i do not have second gear, 3-6 work fine so far and i do not have a reverse. also my shifter doesn't seem to move far enough to the left.
We took the short shifter out and put the factory one back in and it still doesn't work. Is it possible for me not to have to take it to VW? i feel like they're going to tell me I need to replace I don't need and how to fix it.
Also, I drive a 2013 jetta GLI but its the same set up for a mk6 GTI....