Over the last few weeks the clutch in my 6mt will occasionally stick in. Doesn't happen often, maybe once or twice during my commute to work. So, when i let my foot off the clutch, the pedal will either come back slowly or stop about half way out. there has been 2 occasions now where I've had to get behind it with my foot to pull it all the way out. Does it just need to be bled?
I have about 20k miles on the car now.
Put in a brand new Clutch Masters stage 2 kit with flywheel and throwout bearing. Also installed ecs bleeder block. Got everything back together and bled the system. But the pedal is still sticking to the floor with no pedal feel at all.
View 9 RepliesSo I was living in Texas for the past 4 months and noticed my clutch started to act up. It was sticking at the engagement point and sometimes I would need to pull the pedal up with my foot. Also sometimes when I was engaging the clutch, the pressure on my foot from the pedal would suddenly disappear. I had an hour commute to and from work when I was down there and frequently was in stop-and-go traffic.
Fast forward to now, I am back up in New York. It is much colder here and I don't drive nearly as much. I took it into the dealership to have it looked at. My car sat for a day before the tech could take it for a drive. I received a call saying that the problem could not be replicated and everything seemed fine. I picked my car up and it hasn't happened as frequently as before but it is still doing it. I think it has something to do with temperature.
So I've been dealing with this for a little while now and it's starting to really irritate me. With my 850, when cold, it drives awesome- perfect engagement, pressure, etc. When hot, I'm noticing that even with the pedal to the floor while in gear, I might get a few 'jerks' until it frees up. Also engaging while hot (in traffic) can sometimes cause rapid 'jerks' which leads to stalling, the pedal engagement is all over the place and you really have to know how to drive the car, just to get it right.
Now I've bled the line about 4 times now in the last three years and it seems to improve slightly (maybe placebo effect), but I'm not looking into it maybe being the grease on the input shaft? I know we greased the throwout bearing and input shaft, but it was a very light coating since I was nervous about getting grease on a $2400 clutch.
I don't put many miles on my car, so even though I'm going on 2 years my 2010 GTI (6 speed manual) only has 11k miles on it. Over the last few months I have notice that when starting out in first gear on a hill, as I let the clutch out I will sometimes (not always) hear a squealing noise that isn't insanely loud but definitely noticeable and sounds like a cross between chewbacca and an elephant. It goes away once the clutch is fully let out and I start moving. Over the last couple days I've noticed a hesitation in the throttle occasionally, as if the power is just dying. But, the rpms don't suddenly rev up when this happens (as I would expect if the clutch were slipping). It just feels like the power is dying and hitting the gas has no effect -- the car just slows down. Happened today in 4th gear going about 45 mph -- car just started to slow. 5-10 seconds later it recovered.
Could this all be due to my clutch? If so, can it be adjusted or does it require a new clutch? It's under warranty. Problem is it's intermittent and I just know I'll drive all the way out to the dealer and it won't do it on command. I am APR stage 1. But I don't drive hard at all.
5.3L v8 .. Occasionally when starting the truck with either the remote start or with the key, the starter sticks on and keeps trying to start until I roll the key back and shut off the truck. It is random and only happened 3 times in past 6 months. What it would be?
View 1 RepliesMkIV 2.0 ... My 4th cylinder will occasionally misfire if I release the clutch at too high of a rev. It is intermittent but happens if I do a burn out or something. How to fix this other then stop doing burn outs and such.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 99 Honda Civic. Our clutch is sticking in all gears and won't go into 5th gear at all. There is no resistance when I push down on the clutch pedal.
View 8 RepliesWe have a 2000 Honda Accord, standard shift, with 105,000 miles on it. The clutch has been sticking at the floor on random occasions (especially on hot days). Our mechanic (Honda Dealer) has not been able to correct the problem. Last summer he changed the clutch fluid and said that looked like the problem as it was vey dark. It corrected the problem for a few months but now it is happening again in the cold weather. It can happen at any time you depress the clutch, even while shifting when moving. Of course, then it is very difficult to get the car in gear. Our only solution is to manually pick up the clutch with hand or foot and this is dangerous in traffic.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Mazda 6 with 104k on it. The clutch started sticking a couple weeks ago right where it would engage into gear, and I'd have to use my foot to pop it back up. It only happened here and there until finally, it stuck to the floor and became very difficult, if not impossible, to get out of gear. So everywhere I looked, it seemed that the slave cylinder was the culprit. I got a new one at AutoZone, replaced it yesterday, and the car ran great last night and this morning.
Then, this afternoon, in one 10 mile trip, it went back to the original problem. Stuck with every gear change, then stuck to the floor after I pushed it in and darn near wouldn't come out of gear. What in the world could be the problem?
It was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
So... I have a 99 Subaru Outback 5 speed that I love the hell out of. Anyway, recently my clutch pedal has started momentarily sticking mid return. The clutch appears to be fully engaged, but the pedal sticks, or hangs for a moment before popping the rest of the way up. Once, and only once so far, it stuck completely just for a moment before returning after being depressed again. I'm not sure how concerned I should be, and given that the car is new to me I'm still trying to familiarize myself with it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Montana with 140,000 miles on it. I bought it used five years ago. The transmission is going out. The shop did a scan and found the torque converter clutch is sticking on. What this is? Should I make the repairs or ditch the van?
Good points: four new tires in December 2013; body is great; and minor maintenance repairs.
Bad points: the air conditioning is broken and the heat is forever terrible.
The van is currently at my regular shop and they do not do transmissions so I do not have an estimate or more information about the problem.
I have a 2007 Tacoma 4 cylinder 5 speed. The clutch pedal started sticking about a month ago and has only happened a hand full of times. When the pedal is pushed to the floor it would stick, I thought it was hanging up on the floor mat at first but that was not the case. I went out to move the truck today and the pedal immediately stuck to the floor. Like usual I tapped the pedal kind of on the side to get it to release. the pedal then came back up. But now it wont push back in at all!!! There is only 1/2" of travel on the pedal and stops solid. It's like it is binding up on something. The spring seems to be in place the right way and nothing that I can see obviously wrong.
View 4 RepliesBeen having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
View 11 RepliesI just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
View 2 RepliesI just noticed today that my passenger front wheel is sticking out further than my driver side wheel. I did a brief search and had a hard time finding anything.
I've read about shifting the subframe, but that only seems to adjust a few millimeters.
Pics of ball joint issue and difference in wheel tuck:
Notice the shift in the ball joint mounting on the passenger side. The driver side was replaced at the time of alignment.
So I just did my rear brake pads and rotors a few days ago. For the last few months, my e brake hadn't been working well (have to pull it way up, and still weak).
While doing the brakes, I noticed the park brake arm was more or less seized on the left rear. I worked it a bit, and then my park brake worked perfect - 4 or 5 clicks, right on.
Then I noticed it isn't disengaging (brake smoke). I figured the ratcheting mechanism in the piston must be kaput.
So today I got a new (reman) caliper & bracket, installed it, and... still sticking. Cables are fine, the arm is moving fine. I'm now certain that the problem must be hydraulic, but what?
I would think that a master cylinder or booster would cause all the brakes to drag, or at least one axle worth, but that isn't the case. After a short spin on the freeway with little brake use, 3 of the brakes show 40 - 45C or so, and the sticking one shows 150C. (with an infrared thermometer).
During the brake job I noticed the left side was harder to turn in than the right, so I guess that could have been hydraulic back pressure somehow. Didn't seem to notice any damage to the hoses, they look pretty mint. master cylinder still?
I did the rear bearings at the same time. The bearing on the left was bone dry, probably from overheating in the past - I'm sure this POS stuck at some other time too, overheated and lost its grease. right side was fine but I figured might as well do them both.
I just picked up an R32 a couple weeks ago, and I've noticed that occasionally when using the remote door locks that the driver's door refuses to lock/unlock. When locking, the alarm doesn't arm as I assume the car doesn't think the door is closed. When unlocking, well, it just doesn't unlock. In both cases if I use the key in the door, everything works nicely.
View 10 RepliesI bought some coilover for my mk4 Jetta, and the two front coilover just don't seem write, they are sticking way to much from where they need to be at, and they are hitting my hood..
View 24 RepliesMy car is not my daily and I only hear the sound after it's been sitting for a day or so, at low speeds right when I pull out of my driveway, I hear what sounds like the rear tires dragging over gravel and "sticking," the sound is more pronounced the sharper I turn. As I go a mile or so down the road and make turns, the sound goes away. I don't notice any vibrations or clinking sounds.
View 2 Replies