Golf/GTI VII :: Cannot Engage Reverse Warning And CEL Came On - DSG Failure
Sep 27, 2014
MK7 GTI - I was driving along yesterday when I got a warning message that said "cannot engage reverse," accompanied by a CEL and the transmission downshifting into 1st gear (luckily I was only going about 20 mph.) I tried pulling over and restarting the car, and tried shifting into the different transmission and engine modes, but the transmission continued to only be able to engage 1st gear or neutral. Luckily I was five minutes from my APR dealer, and cruised over there at 15 mph so as to not over-rev the engine in 1st gear, a lot of pissed off traffic was flying by me honking.
They ran the codes, flashed it back to stock, and the codes and CEL persisted in stock mode. I drove back to my house at 15mph, took my intake off, and called roadside assistance to tow my car to the dealership. They are currently waiting on a rep to come out and authorize a new DSG most likely.
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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Just got a new GTI two weeks ago, and wow. I love it. It's like a dream come true to me to own a GTI. It's everything I've imagined and more. Anyways, while driving my girlfriend to the store last night I received the "Transmission error: Cannot engage reverse" error while driving down the highway (and obviously not trying to go into reverse). I have seen a few others with 2015 GTIs that have the DSG transmission with the same issue. Unfortunately my night ended in me limping the car home, and having it towed to the dealership today. Sadly the car only has 2800 miles on it, and it's my baby. Even the girlfriend says I love it more than her.
Now my question is, how was it fixed? Total replacement of transmission? Electronics issue? As you can imagine, I am super bummed about this. I can honestly say, 75% of the time I drive the car in manual mode, and very rarely take it over 4k RPM and have never redlined the thing. My mother and my girlfriend insist that I got this transmission error by driving an automatic in manual mode so much, however Volkswagen and the dealership insist that driving the car this way will do no harm whatsoever to the transmission.
So again, my question is, how is this issue resolved? Is driving my car this way really not good for it? Until then, I will be driving around this rental Passat, that feels like a boat compared to my GTI. But the sunroof and leather seats are pretty nice.
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My truck has a very specific hesitation/failure to engage at 1300 rpm and 45-55 mph. I took it to a reputable national chain that specializes in transmissions thinking this should be a very specific issue that I was able to catch early. After "transmission rebuild" with new torque converter, I have the exact symptoms. How is this possible?
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I have a 1999 VW Passat that has a problem with its cruise control that two dealers have not been able to solve. Most of the time I cannot engage the cruise control. Other times it will work properly for 30 minutes. On a rare occasion, it will work properly for several hours. It does not seem to matter what type of road I am driving on. On the rare occasions when it works properly, it does not seem to matter if I stop the care and shut off the engine.
It appears is is there are times when it stops working that stopping the care and shutting off the engine is useful when I begin driving again. However, there is nothing consistent about when it fails, and when it again functions. The dealers have said little more than the cruise control is not working. One dealer installed a new break pedal sensor which did not resolve the problem.
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Our 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
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my 91 525i wont engage 1st gear..fluids fine..nothing smoking...fluid levels great. color correct in fluid appearance..reverse works..no funny noises from rear end..car just will not shift above 1st. i have replaced transmission filter and fluid.
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So I did a fairly hard 1st to 2nd gear pull on my way to lunch today. Got to a stop light and I had to slam the shifter to get my car in first. Same with 2nd and reverse. Third, fourth, and fifth seem fine. With the engine off all gears select fine. With the engine running at idle, when I engage first the engine jumps. I can definitely feel it engage. I have the ecs ra4 stage 1 kit with about 40,000 miles on it. The clutch doesn't slip when driving. This seems to be the only symptom. I'm going to bleed the slave cylinder when I get fluid. Fork? Synchros? Worn pressure plate spring thingys?
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So I just installed my short shifter and everything works great, all the gears engage, however, when I put my shift knob on I noticed I couldn't engage reverse because it sits down too low and doesn't allow the reverse lockout to get over the rail and engage reverse. I have to loosen the knob so it sits higher and then I can engage reverse, but it moves around, so I can't leave it like this...right now my plan is to make some sort of spacer for the knob to sit on and then put loctite on it...seems like it would solve my problem. I have a Hyundai Aluminum shift knob and the short shift is OEM so I don't see what could be wrong ...
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Within the past two weeks i've had a warning light that came on. it has come on about 4 times once 2 times within about 5 minutes. the warning comes up on the display screen on the dashboard and says STOP then brake failure then service manual. i've already taken it to a dealer to get it checked out and it came back with nothing. that was after the second time it happened. it has since happened again. it seems to only be happening on cold mornings. i don't know if this has and effect.
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Why my Phaeton cannot tell me which lightbulb has failed when Mrs AG's Audi A4, which is older, can? It just says check light and more often than not, goes off again after a couple of days as in the latest episode. Am I missing something, or is that just the way it is? I do not have a VCDS.
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I have 2009 corolla with about 125, 000 on it. A few times over the past couple of weeks on chilly mornings (in the 50's) the transmission did not engage in reverse right away. Usually with the fast idle you can feel it kick in but on these days it takes a few seconds before that happens. I have had the car for two years and have done nothing about transmission service. A dealer told me it was lifetime fluid and there is no dip stick to check it. Is this a common problem? Is this a sign the trans is on the way out? Should I sell the car now before it gets worse?
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I got in my car this morning to drop my sister off to school and when I put the RX in reverse nothing happened for a second or two and then all of a sudden it jerked back. I continued to reverse off the driveway thinking what the heck just happened. When I put the car in drive the reverse camera stayed on as I drove off.
When I noticed this, I pulled over to the side and put the RX back in park and turned it off. I then turned it back on and the area on the dash that shows what gear your in, never turned on. My sister was getting late so I dropped her off and came home.
I turned the car off and waited 30 seconds before turning it back on. This time the reverse camera didn't engage in reverse and the small screen that displays what gear your in, displayed no image. Then a few seconds after that, the check engine light came on and so did the symbol of a car and squiggly lines under it. My RX350 is a 2010, and has just under 85k.
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I have a Ford Explorer that my mechanic says needs a new trany. The vehicle takes a while to engage in reverse and does so with a loud clunk. Otherwise it runs good. I have 198K mi. It's an "02 4wd. Their asking $2,100 for the rebuilt trans. Wondering if it's worth it? May have reached the end of the line on this vehicle?
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A140E transaxle issue... I have what I surmise is a direct clutch engagement issue. It takes (literally) 3 or MINUTES to engage reverse. And obviously the 2 -3 shift is slow also. It acts like there is a restriction in the passage to the direct piston. I rebuilt about 5 years ago, so am familiar with the teardown.
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I have a Hyundai Tuscon 2005 with 140K automatic transmission. Original Owner and has treated me well. Current issue is the transmission will not engage in reverse or park immediately when shifted most notably first thing in the morning or in the late evening after sitting for a while. It acts as if it is in neutral until it engages after revving the engine for a while. Once it engages, it is a little sporadic for a few minutes and then all is fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I start, stop or turn the car on or off.
Runs like a champ until the next morning and it starts all over again. A couple of times the check engine light has come on and I can tell that the transmission is stuck in 3rd gear. I can't manually get it to go up to 4th or down to 1 or 2. I can clear the code and then all is back to normal again with normal shifting again available. Short of a transmission rebuild (whihe probably won't happen) could it be electronic in nature since it comes and goes?
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I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Galant, 4cyl., 165, 000 miles. Without previous symptoms, one day the transmission developed a delay of 5 to 30-seconds before it would engage in reverse. The fluid was clean and I have been using the Mitsubishi brand that they recommend. So I replaced the original transmission with a used one. But the reverse delay continued, even with a different transmission. So I removed the used transmission and rebuilt the original one. The problem STILL remained. Since then, the valve body has been replaced and the speed sensor has been replaced. I cannot figure out why there is a delay when putting it into reverse. I ran out of solutions. I did notice one day that when I first start the car, and the engine is at 1000 RPM's or more, the reverse wouldn't engage. Then, as the RPM's dropped to about 200 RPM's, the reverse would engage. I thought maybe this would be a clue.
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Monday I started my truck after leaving it in the garage while on a 8 day vacation. Shifting into reverse led to almost no movement at all. After a few seconds, I shifted back into park and then reverse again and got a solid reverse right away. I may have noticed sluggish shifting into reverse previously, but not this noticeable. What could be the culprit?
2001 Excursion 7.3 4x4 .....
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I have an automatic 2004 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 engine. I just bought the truck and noticed the other day that when I shift into reverse, there is a 1-2 second delay. Sometimes it will shift quicker than other times. Drive seems to be a little more swift I think. Everything seems to run smooth and the shifting is very smoot other than the delay. Is this normal or what could be some of the causes. The previous owner has the ATF changed this pst summer and it looks and smells fine other than maybe having to much fluid.
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I got myself a 1997 explorer Australian model when I got it (here's the problem) if you put it in drive it will not engage but if put in first will drive normal then shift into second all good now u have push O.D then shift into drive all good (unless u slow down to almost a stop) ? New problem is, it has gone and lost reverse, put it in reverse and it engages with a small clank (normal) but just slips with any revs. I have read posts here talking about upper and lower valve body gaskets and transgo shiftkit which I have ordered but do there maybe more parts needed? Cause it's going to cost me lot just to put transmission fluid back in.
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I have a 2007 Prius with 92000 miles. All dashboard warning lights lit up the other day. Had it towed to the Toyota dealer and they first replaced the HV ECU. Now they are saying the traction battery needs to be replaced. They have had the car several days but they put me in a free rental.
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