Golf/GTI VII :: CTS Catback Hangs Down At One Point By The Left Rear Control Arm
Jun 22, 2015
So I looked under my car to see how much clearance I have as I am going lower it with VWR springs and noticed that my CTS catback hangs downs at one point by the left rear control arm a lot. Like really bad. I've already spoke to someone who is bogged and had to have an exhaust shop fabricate a new piece as he scraped that piece a lot.
Had I known I wouldn't buy this carp. Talk about cutting corners. It literally hangs down a foot under the car.
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Got our 2014 back in March and it still hangs in fourth gear after downshifting with the cruise on. Downshifting from 6th to 5th for small hills is fine but on steeper hills when it drops to 4th and hangs in there uncomfortably long.
What I've been doing is switching over to manual and bumping it up to 5th and then 6th. When I don't, it will hang in 4th and rev high and then eventually shift into 5th and 6th one right after the other long after the road has leveled out..
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I am having a problem with my 2007 R32 manual,over the last few weeks its developed a whining noise in what seems to sound from the rear left side,more so when driving around a left hand corner (weight is off the noisy side),or when i let my foot off the gas and let the car run,ive jacked it up and when I grab the back left drive shaft and shake it, I found there's a bit of play on the side going into the diff, there's 70000 miles on it and no problems to date, looking for some info on what problem could be?
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It's been going on for awhile now...shifter hangs up to one side or the other instead of self recentering when put in neutral. I have checked the interior and there is no dirt of grime on the white nylon ball that the shifter floats on and it was also lube with some white lithium spray (liquid wrench). Checked under the hood. All connections are good and solid and free from any obstructions. Trans fluid was changed 10k miles ago. Not sure what else to check.
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Had a "Friend" who multiple friends suggested could install my VWR springs put my springs on. Long story short, the installation was a nightmare. And I should have just been patient and taken it to the local tuner.
My problems now are: Guy snapped an inner axle bolt off. CV boot is spitting grease everywhere. Car does NOT want to turn left. It will turn a little then it just wants to go straight. Am I guessing the last issue may be a broken control arm? What do you think? I'm calling the local tuner tomorrow and getting my car in this week to be repaired.
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I am wanting to upgrade from my factory exhaust to a catback system. But, it seems like every system I find is borla. I have heard of and seen videos of guys putting 9th gen magnaflow kits on the 10th gen. I love the magnaflow sound but not sure how accurate the info I have found is. 2009 corolla S auto trans
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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It seems like the rear camera has suddenly started to point down more that it used to. We have three Prius's and none of the older one are like this.
The dealer tells me he hears this problem all day long and there is nothing he can do about it.
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I have a 05 B5.5 GLS wagon.
I have a floor jack and want to raise both rear or front wheels for a quick snow tire changeover but I have not been able to locate a good jack point.
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It seems like the rear camera has suddenly started to point down more that it used to. We have three Prius's and none of the older one are like this. The dealer tells me he hears this problem all day long and there is nothing he can do about it.
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So I just did my rear brake pads and rotors a few days ago. For the last few months, my e brake hadn't been working well (have to pull it way up, and still weak).
While doing the brakes, I noticed the park brake arm was more or less seized on the left rear. I worked it a bit, and then my park brake worked perfect - 4 or 5 clicks, right on.
Then I noticed it isn't disengaging (brake smoke). I figured the ratcheting mechanism in the piston must be kaput.
So today I got a new (reman) caliper & bracket, installed it, and... still sticking. Cables are fine, the arm is moving fine. I'm now certain that the problem must be hydraulic, but what?
I would think that a master cylinder or booster would cause all the brakes to drag, or at least one axle worth, but that isn't the case. After a short spin on the freeway with little brake use, 3 of the brakes show 40 - 45C or so, and the sticking one shows 150C. (with an infrared thermometer).
During the brake job I noticed the left side was harder to turn in than the right, so I guess that could have been hydraulic back pressure somehow. Didn't seem to notice any damage to the hoses, they look pretty mint. master cylinder still?
I did the rear bearings at the same time. The bearing on the left was bone dry, probably from overheating in the past - I'm sure this POS stuck at some other time too, overheated and lost its grease. right side was fine but I figured might as well do them both.
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I Have had my 99.5 jetta for 4 years now, car drives straight, no tire wear issues, but from day one I have noticed by looking in the wheel wells of both rear tires that the r/s rear is set back further than the l/s rear, l/s rear looks centered in the wheel wheel and the r/s rear looks to be back further and not centered, no evidence of any rear damage from a previous owner, car drives straight as an arrow , I'm stumped, all four tires have worn even in the past 3 years.
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So somehow my Left Rear Roof Molding came loose while I was driving and is missing now. ECS Tuning has one but I don't want to spend 70 bucks.
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Coming from an mk4 jetta with solid rear beam i know how the one side can be out a bit from the other. that being said the mk6's rear eand shouldn't be doing that at all right???
Because on my 2010 golf the right rear wheel sticks out more about 1/4" or so than the left. im on air and just got a full alignment done last week with my rear camber set @ -3 degrees on ride height. coz now im rubbing ever so little on bumps on the right rear that is why i noticed. i guess my question....is it normal for mk6's to have this too? if not...what coud be the cause of this?
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I checked fuse 23 as many people have said to do and nothing is wrong with it. any other things I could check?
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I installed KW V3 coilovers back in October. About a week ago I started getting a popping noise in the left rear suspension when going over speed bumps or up my driveway from the street at certain angles. I could not find any evidence of the springs binding, but did notice that there was some separation of rubber around the plastic center of the rubber mount beneath the spring. This likely the problem or loose sub frame bolts?
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Just picked up my 2012 2dr. GTI. My first wash and I noticed the left rear stationary window leaking from the inside. ( not impressed ). It is going back to be fixed under warranty but wonder if the seal and window are one or two piece and what is involved in this repair? Hopefully the person doing it has done it before and not using a tube of silicone to repair it. What to expect for a proper repair.
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I am going to VIR in a couple of weeks and wanted to see at what point is engine oil too hot? As well as engine temps? As far as I know there are no oil coolers yet? I guess if it gets too hot it will go into limp mode but wanted to stop before I reached that point.
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I just installed the lights and found that only the outside left light worked with the brake depressed, the outside left inside left and inside right worked with the light switch in the on position. Also both blinkers work.
I switched my byte 18 to 04 already and am not (as of now) using my euro light switch (I didn't think this would be it but I'm at a complete loss) ...
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So I was living in Texas for the past 4 months and noticed my clutch started to act up. It was sticking at the engagement point and sometimes I would need to pull the pedal up with my foot. Also sometimes when I was engaging the clutch, the pressure on my foot from the pedal would suddenly disappear. I had an hour commute to and from work when I was down there and frequently was in stop-and-go traffic.
Fast forward to now, I am back up in New York. It is much colder here and I don't drive nearly as much. I took it into the dealership to have it looked at. My car sat for a day before the tech could take it for a drive. I received a call saying that the problem could not be replicated and everything seemed fine. I picked my car up and it hasn't happened as frequently as before but it is still doing it. I think it has something to do with temperature.
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The underside coating is peeled off where the vehicle lifter makes contact. Is this normal or does this indicate the dealer lifted the vehicle incorrectly?
I went only to dear so far. It was done by the dealer. The bright metal is exposed. I did not notice rust yet.
I happened to notice the peel off while I was installing mud flaps myself.
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