Golf/GTI VII :: Bumpy And Jarring Over Uneven Paving
May 19, 2015
I'm currently running with vwr lower sport spring. The ride in the front seems to be okay, but the ride in the back is so horrible I must say. Bumpy and jarring over uneven paving as hell, the ride in the back is so uncomfortable compares to the front. I'm thinking of trying with aftermarket struts and shocks as Koni or Bilstein. Should I bring it to the dealer and have them check the suspension? I'm a bit hesitated since having aftermarket springs installed.
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When I drive on the freeway and hit uneven paving or bumps the car feels like it's hydroplaning for a few seconds then is fine when surface levels out. What it might be? It's got 168k miles and probably time to get rid of it but would like to sell it and want to fix this problem.
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I just bought a 2007 ls460 with 100k miles on the car love the vehicle but I have 2 issues with it first wind noise which I will get fix after dealing with the car bouncy ride. When I first got the vehicle i didn't notice the bouncy ride it happens when going fast on freeway 60+mph over bumpy and uneven pavements. It would bounce up and down and wobble side to side like crazy where it is scary that I will lose control if I don't hold on to the steering wheel hard.
So I replace all four shocks still no fix. My mechanic said my control arms bushing are bad. So I had all 8 front control arms replaced with OEM parts. That made a big difference on the driving and handling. It doesn't bonce as much as it did but it still bounce a little and wobbles side to side but not as much. I feel like the car is not suppose to feel this way only happens on freeway at high speed over bumps. Do I need to replace my rear control arms as well for the car to not bounce and wobble.
My mechanic said there are 10 total arms in the rear 5 each side. Will this work for my ride? Or do I need to replace new springs? I don't want to spend more money than I already have on it. I did a 4 wheel alignment and my specs in front are good but my left rear camber is -2.6 degree toe is 0.16 and my right rear is -2.0 degree toe 0.10 alignment guy said that if i change my rear control arm it might support the camber.
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My 11 f150 started to make a jingle noise like washers in a bag while driving over uneven bumpy roads. Normal highways are fine and it does it turning or going straight. Seems to be coming from drivers side. I replaced the swaybar link ends with moogs. Didbt fix the problem. I also removed the bushings abd lubed them with white lithium grease. Still the same sounds on the same conditions. I did t replace the bushings with new ones. I still have a extended warranty on the truck. Might take it in...
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I've noticed that under mid-throttle condition, there is a jarring lag when the car shifts from 3rd to 4th gear Always exactly from 3rd to 4th gear.. no other gears. The car will literally lurch as if the gas is cut momentarily. If the pedal is mashed to the firewall (which.. it frequently is).. then it shifts fine.
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I'm getting this rattling sound/buzzing sound when I drive over bumpy roads. I'm not sure if this is the fuel line since the only time I get the rattle is when I drive over bumpy roads (brick roads, uneven roads, rumble strip, etc).
I think the rattle is from the passenger side.
I checked the VW site for recalls (not sure if TSBs will show up) for my vehicle. I think I'm going to take it in to get checked and see if the fuel line rubber washer was ever installed. Would the dealership be able to see if the TSB was ever performed while they had the car in the lot? Does the TSB only apply to certain range of VINs?
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I noticed this yesterday when swapping out my wheels. What could be the causes?
Pass side
Drivers side
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OEM plus. 93k. Um tune. Evoms intake.
Did the plugs and coil packs, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body (Did a vagcom alignment) as well as some other insignificant maintance.
Car ran fine for weeks after, but recently it has started to bounce around randomly at idle. Like 650rpm(normal) for a few seconds. Then it will Slowly climb to 800rpms, hold there for a few seconds. Then back down to 650ish for a few seconds, then back up to 800 for a few seconds. And so on. It's very subtle and very random. Then sometimes when accelerating, I can feel it in the gas peddle. Like a slight pulsing power loss. Very slight and of a similar rhythm to the idle issue.
I do have a check engine light for Load Calculation cross check-p1143-001 upper limit exceeded. But that has been a battle I have been fighting for a year or so, and I think that is some kind of vacuum leak, but this rpm issue just started a few weeks ago. The only thing I was thinking so far is that when I was doing the plugs and coil packs, I noticed that there was a slight bit of what looked like dielectric grease on each coil pack already from the factory. So I didn't put any more in the coil packs sleeve part that fits over the plug. So was that a mistake? And if it was a mistake would this be a symptom of that?
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Occasionally I can feel light jerking when cruising steadily at around 2200 rpm. for a second the rpms increase by ~50, not enough even to notice any change in speed, and then goes back where it was. it is as if the clutch was slipping.
My first thought was MAF so took one from a working car but problem did not go away.
A minor thing that may be unrelated: the transmission also sometimes doesn't set shiftpoints properly, i.e., when accelerating uphill, it would go from 1st to 2nd ok, then when it reaches the point to shift to 3rd, the 3rd gear stays only for a second or so, and then shifts to 4th.
So I disconnected the MAF sensor altogether and the problem went away! My conclusion was then that it must be the wiring between ECU and MAF, so checked the cables between ECU and MAF, found all resistances within spec (below 2.5 Ohm). Since the problem is intermittent, the resistance of the cables doesn't tell much.
Checked with vag-com and there are no codes. Where to go from there? 2003 AVH (auto)...
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A month ago, when I got into my car I saw that my rear view mirror was hanging freely with the tension of the rain sensor cables. My windshield was changed last winter. The thing is insurance company didn't change it with the original factory version. So I think they removed the rain sensor from the old one and tried to stick it to the new one. And the whether was so hot at that time so the glue just came off. The only part of the mirror that didn't came off was a black sticker kind of thing with a hole for the rain sensor in the middle of it. Then I tried to stick it back using super glue. Well it worked for a month but yesterday my mirror fell of again. So I cleaned the residue of the super glue from windshield using acetone and left it like that.
I'm thinking of taking the car to service now. Oh and btw the rain sensor part is a bit bumpy right now. I mean it doesn't stay in a fixed position. It stays a little bit in front of the hole it should stay in so gluing the mirror back is possible only if I apply the glue to the rain sensor.
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Been hearing a plastic sounding tapping noise when I ride over very bumpy roads. Turns out the floor panel in the trunk has some play and it's not padded. Well I wedged a towel Between the floor and the trunk lid and the tapping is gone. I was able to duplicate the sound by lifting and dropping the sliding floor in the trunk. Anyway I'm thrilled car is supple and quite over bumpy roads now. I went over every bumpy road I could find; nice and planted and quite now...
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Last week my 2011 GTI starting making the most unbearable squeeking sound anytime I drive on a bumpy or rough surface. As far as I can tell, it's coming from the interior and it's coming from the passenger seat. However, it's hard to identify the source while you are simultaneously driving.
Here is a link to a video so you can hear the noise I am talking about, it starts around 8 seconds in: [URL] .....
What could be causing the noise?
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I took the R in for a passenger side seat issue (recliner not working), and while I was there I had them look into a light knocking noise I was experiencing.
The noise would happen most noticeably at low speeds, over uneven road surfaces...but not over things like speed bumps. I checked under the car, checked the hatch, made sure the spare/tools were secure, and nothing worked.
VW figured out that the noise was coming from the lower rubber rear spring plate, part (1K0-512-297-D). Not sure if it was one side or both, but they replaced both.
All better now, no more noise! Just wanted to make a thread for those of you who like to hunt down and fix noises.
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The brake pedal on my Golf 4 GTI 132KW pulsates when I put my foot on the pedal going over uneven terrain without pushing the pedal in.
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So, I have a clunk that sounds like it's coming from the rear end, almost more of a knocking sound. It sounds to me like the driver's rear, but only hearing it in the driver's seat probably distorts my perception. The sound only occurs over bumps or uneven areas in the road. I've played with the end-links and they seem fine. I can't find anything visually obvious.
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I have coilovers on my R32 with adjustable control arms and have been noticing a "thud" type of noise when going over uneven surfaces which appears to be coming from the rear.
I actually periodically noticed this noise when I first got the PSS's put on my car when going over larger bumps/dips in the road but lately it is becoming much more pronounced - occurring over uneven surfaces like parking ramps or driving over crappy roads. Over smooth surfaces, no problem.
Thought it was my rear sway bar bushings since they were making a really bad creaking noise, got those replaced and still noticing this damn noise.
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I recently purchased a used 2012 Camry SE V6. I realize the SE has a sport suspension, but around 35-50 MPH it rides very bumpy. It almost feels like I have bent wheel. I've taken it to the dealership 5+ times and they said it's the torque converter, but there is no repair for it. I went to another Toyota dealership and have the field tech drive the car.
Unfortunately, the bumpy ride started to go away and the tech didn't think it was that noticeable. A couple weeks have gone by and the bumpiness is back. Also, I have new Michelin tires put on at 16K miles and the car has only 18K on it. The wheels have been balanced and the alignment was good.
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So I'm getting this ticking noise from the drivers seat belt area. Seem to be coming from where you can adjust the seat belt height. It ticks when on slightly bumpy road. Drives me nuts because it is right by my left ear.
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Here over the last week or so I've noticed my car start to have a bumpy ride around 35-42 ish mph, and around 65-70 ish mph. It feels worse probably around that 40 range, and seems to be even more pronounced during acceleration. It's not a super high frequency or anything, maybe just a couple hundred HZ. I have been driving it considerably more over the last month with my new job (around 140 miles a day, mostly highway/interstate driving). I've got an oil change/ fluids checked about 3 weeks ago or so.
2000 buick regal ls ......
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My '03 W8 with 22,000 miles on it has had a slightly bumpy idle since I got it, the dealer has told me that this is not a big deal. This afternoon, however, I noticed that the idle has suddenly become much rougher, though it has not thrown a CEL. The idle is noticably rough at speeds below 10 mph and while it is fully stopped (in Drive, Neutral, and Park). I just picked my car up from the dealer this afternoon after it had a window control module replaced, and now it looks like I am going to have to go back to the dealer. I know that they are going to give me the run around and try and convince me that nothing is wrong with my car, but the idle is rough enough to shake the whole car and it sounds as if there is a new (or louder) noise coming from under the hood (other than the valvetrain noise). I suspect that this might be the clogged oil screen issue, but I really don't know what to do.
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I love my 2011 Prius. It's relatively quiet in low speed drive and can't beat those MPGs. One thing that does bother me though is how bumpy the car rides. It is somewhat tolerable in the summer and fall, but as soon as I start driving on winter roads I feel like I'm riding on a tin can, feeling every single road bumps. Does the car usually feel the same for others or I need to change someone on my car. I still have the factory Assurance tires (36K miles). Are those the problem or should I get the struts checked (even though I'm pretty sure they're fine)?
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