Golf/GTI VII :: At What Point Engine Oil Too Hot?
May 12, 2015
I am going to VIR in a couple of weeks and wanted to see at what point is engine oil too hot? As well as engine temps? As far as I know there are no oil coolers yet? I guess if it gets too hot it will go into limp mode but wanted to stop before I reached that point.
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So I was living in Texas for the past 4 months and noticed my clutch started to act up. It was sticking at the engagement point and sometimes I would need to pull the pedal up with my foot. Also sometimes when I was engaging the clutch, the pressure on my foot from the pedal would suddenly disappear. I had an hour commute to and from work when I was down there and frequently was in stop-and-go traffic.
Fast forward to now, I am back up in New York. It is much colder here and I don't drive nearly as much. I took it into the dealership to have it looked at. My car sat for a day before the tech could take it for a drive. I received a call saying that the problem could not be replicated and everything seemed fine. I picked my car up and it hasn't happened as frequently as before but it is still doing it. I think it has something to do with temperature.
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The underside coating is peeled off where the vehicle lifter makes contact. Is this normal or does this indicate the dealer lifted the vehicle incorrectly?
I went only to dear so far. It was done by the dealer. The bright metal is exposed. I did not notice rust yet.
I happened to notice the peel off while I was installing mud flaps myself.
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I had my wheel replaced, new tire put on but the tire pressure monitoring system is still telling me "Tire Pressure Too Low" and there's an icon in the speedometer of a tire with an exclamation point in it that flashes....
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So I looked under my car to see how much clearance I have as I am going lower it with VWR springs and noticed that my CTS catback hangs downs at one point by the left rear control arm a lot. Like really bad. I've already spoke to someone who is bogged and had to have an exhaust shop fabricate a new piece as he scraped that piece a lot.
Had I known I wouldn't buy this carp. Talk about cutting corners. It literally hangs down a foot under the car.
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I have no CEL at all, no loss of power etc..... but this rattle comes from what seems mid point under the car around 1900-2600 rpm in that area. I tapped on the Cat and there was no noise. Could it be from the mid point around the resonator ? I am really starting to get at a loss here about the sound. like I said No cel and performance is on par. if it was the honeycomb in my cat wouldn't i have a CEL ?
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I am getting a 3006,3011,3015 code from my 2001 prius. The car only has 56k miles on it but sat for 8 months without starting or unplugging the batteries. I am wondering if i need to replace bank 1 and 5 on the battery to get the engine light off? The car runs fine and drives great but engine light is on and the triangle exclamation point is on but that's it for lights. What do i need to do? Replace battery altogether? recharge the effected banks?
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I can't figure if it's a TB issue as I've just had it replaced or a mount problem. I only get the knock on biting point idle and pull away under load. This noise is driving me insane.
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So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
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Normally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
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I have a 2003 Malibu with 29,000 miles on it. I notice my temperature gauge reads a bit over the half way mark when driving around town. I don't notice any type of coolant leak. The gauge almost always reads above the half point, but never gets to the point of overheating. Sometimes it comes close to it but never actually overheats.
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A little background. I was changing the oil and oil filter and noticed that the battery post was corroded. Disconnected the battery and cleaned the post. After that, I have noticed that most of the time, whether hot or cold, the engine cranks normally, quickly looses rpm to the point of almost stalling then recovers and runs fine after that. No check engine lights on at all. I have since removed the battery connections and waited about 5 minutes and reconnected them, turned on the ac, lights, anything that would put a load on the engine and cranked it hoping that it was just a computer problem. Nope, same issue. Truck runs fine otherwise, just the start up issue. Engine is gas powered 5.4 liter V-8.
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I have a 2011 SE I4 with roughly 12k on it. Here's my problem: The past few days, I've been smelling something sweet coming out of my AC. I thought nothing much of it until today, when I noticed that my coolant/antifreeze reservoir level was slightly below the low "L" point with the engine cold. I am not sure if this means that I have a leak or something more serious? Is there something that I can do to try and figure out what the hell is wrong? My car is still under warranty, is this something that the dealership should look into? Will there be a cost for that?
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My wife's Prius now has the check engine light, the orange triangle, and the car with the exclamation point lit up. It only has 96,000 miles and hasn't been in a wreck that we know of. I've read that it has to do with the HV ECU, but I don't know much more about it. Is there any chance it's just a loose cable or something simple? It doesn't seem like her car should already be having so many extensive problems all at once. We haven't had any in the past, except the car with the exclamation point came on for a few days and then went away on its own.
Codes: P1636, P3106, P3002, P3006. It's a 2002 Prius
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'95 LeSabre, 250K, runs great. Check engine light on randomly and signs point to a computer malfunction causing the light to come on. Is it true that only a dealership can replace the computer, not an indy mechanic? How much for the repair? Will it run ok w/o a new computer?
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Ford F-150, 1999, 4WD. My dipstick tube has rusted off right at the point where it attaches to the engine block. I purchased a new one but I'm not sure if that's a job I can do on my own. What installing a new tube will entail?
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I ordered and replaced all the LEDs in the car and the license plate LEDs as well. Now I got that damn orange bulb on my dash. Anyway to clear it?
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My wife and I own a 2006 Toyota Prius that we bought used 2 years ago. a couple of days ago, the master warning light (red triangle exclamation point) and check engine light came on. I took it into the dealer and of course, our hybrid battery was dead - battery and a new ECU required.
Our car is at 99,000 and 32 days out of warranty. Went down the road to atlanta hybrid repair. they were incredibly nice, and said that my computer was fine, but the battery would need to be replaced.
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I'm Not sure what is up with my headlights but when I'm Driving I can barely see the road cuz the beams seem to point downward. Looking out my windshield there's like a cutoff line where I see light on bottom, But higher up it's dark. Have to put high beams on so many times to see the road. Many people mention that my lights are horrible. I've stood outside looking at them with lights in and the lights themselves don't look particularly Different. Just suddenly lights are almost useless.
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A while ago I lost my second FOB for my 04 Toyota Prius. I ordered a new one online and it arrived.
Before starting the process I got inside and tried turning the car on with the original key but all that happened was the Key with an exclamation point came on the dashboard and beeped for about 5 seconds.
The manual said that this means, "the smart key was not in the effective range."
I inserted the original key into the key slot but the same thing happened. This also happened when I put the key next to the power button and pressed on. I double checked to make sure the SKS button below the steering wheel was not pushed in. I tried all of this again with the new FOB away from the vehicle and a couple days later.
Same result.
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I have a 2005 Prius. The red triangle and the MIL check engine light came on the dash AND a image came up on Information screen: a car with an exclamation point.
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