Golf/GTI VII :: Acceleration Failure In Fifth Gear
Nov 3, 2014
Once while on my way to work and once while driving home from work today, my GTI failed to accelerate. During both instances, I was in fifth gear and I stabbed the throttle about halfway to make a pass and change lanes. After applying throttle, the car failed to accelerate for about one second. It was like an on/off switch. When it happened the second time, I heard air whoosh out of the waste gate. I should add that my car has the stage 1 APR tune.
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I have Stage 2 on my MK7 GTI. I have only "gunned it" not even launching, just from rolling, 2-3 times since I flashed noting too crazy. Other than that i have been granny shifting and taking it easy. I was on my home from work and i was on the freeway, I was changing lanes and naturally i gave it moderate throttle to match the lanes speed, revs kinda jumped no acceleration and the gear indicator flickered and a second later it resumed accelerating. I tried in a few gears thinking maybe it was a tune hiccup but sadly it slips 3-5th gear, starting around 2.5k+ RPM with very moderate acceleration, nothing too crazy, the amount you would accelerate to switch lanes or merge.
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I thought I had noticed something odd going on the other day but today definitely confirmed it. I was cruising in 5th or 6th gear around 45mph and 1,500rpm and I felt what I can only describe as an acceleration pulsation. It was almost as if I was just cruising and then slammed the acceleration pedal to the floor, released it, pressed it again, etc. This only went on for maybe 5-6 seconds but it was noticeable. The same thing once happened on my '07 GTI and then it never happened again. I will say that this happened literally 1/2 mile after completely filling my gas tank. Before filling it, it was next to empty (I had 15 miles left according to the MFD). I will scan for codes later but there was no CEL and it only happened once in the time I was driving.
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I have a 2002 VW jetta 1.8t recently I've noticed that in 5th gear around 35-45 mph its losing acceleration. its a tiptronic so i can just downshift speed up a bit an o to 5th, however I don't want that to be the permanent fix, what this is or why its doing it?
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Lately I've been having trouble with my car in third gear under hard acceleration while in tip mode with DSG. I have been Stage 2 since April and it hasn't really been an issue until recently.
The best way I can describe it is when you get into 3rd with your foot on the gas the car stops accelerating and kind of gets stuck. I have to completely let off the gas and before it "wakes up" again. I feel like it's been getting worse in worse, but it only ever happens when I try to push it hard.
No problems in auto mode or sport, it's just a major let down. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? It just feels like the car doesn't want to move for a second or 2, like no response from the gas pedal.
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Having problems where sometimes the car won't go into gear, other times it's fine? The problem started after some hard acceleration in 3rd, there was what felt like a momentary loss in power. I dipped the clutch as I thought a boost pipe had popped off, all was fine (still seeing boost when revved). After this it got progressively harder to get gears, finally resulting in not being able to get into gear at all.
I found I could get it into 1st with the engine off and could go up gears normally, but couldn't change down without stopping and turning the engine off. The clutch is working fine, the biting point is normal. The problem seams to come and go randomly, it will work fine for a while and then start playing up again. When working the gearbox feels normal, there is no grinding or wining noises. I can move between gears normally and do clutch less gear changes.
There is now a vibration which can be felt at 1000rpm when stationary. It feels like it coming from the engine/gearbox and seems like something is out of balance as it shakes the whole car. The car is on 91k, supercharged running 470hp & 370lb/ft (at flywheel) and is fitted with a Spec stage 3+ clutch and solid flywheel.
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What would cause both Cat converters to fail at 20,000 mi.? Mine went out and the back pressure caused the engine to knock under acceleration. Also blew out an injector and plug. Luckily it was under warranty but wonder what could caused it.
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My car has 196,000 miles on it & recently starting loading up, stalling. May be heat related. How can I determine if it's the ECM, crank or cam position sensors? The last time it quit on me it scrolled thru "ABS out", "Trac out" & "Gear box failure". Let it sit a minute, restarted it, not a single thing shows up. I'm afraid to drive it as it appears to be getting worse. Our code reader is not giving us anything definitive to go on. Jaguar XJ8 2003....
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2005 6.0 SuperDuty ... I was driving my truck on the freeway, no issues. Started hearing a very faint ticking sound, then the engine died. Pulled off to the side. tried to start it, and it turned over very rapidly, with no compression. I'm thinking "Timing Gear".
Had it towed to a Ford dealership near the incident. I told them what i thought it may be, and the mechanic thought it "May be possible". not very confidently....
I authorized them to remove the engine, and look. Sure enough, the gears were toast. This is the difficult part.
The service manager is a young kid, (I can tell from talking to him a hundred times on the phone), and is telling me "My Cam(s) are ruined, and the valves are bent, because the metal from the gears went through the motor. I told him to stop. put the truck outside, and wait. So, I have a couple of questions. other than i don't have Cam(s).
1. Is the 6.0 a clearance type motor? (will the valves impact the pistons, if the timing gears fail).
2. Will the metal from the timing gears get into the motor, or fall into the oil pan?
There were no loud noises, when the engine died. I had the engine bullet proofed at 101,000 miles, it now has 250,000. The truck is still solid, so worth fixing?
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My Car started then stalled on Christmas. I towed it in to my local dealer to get it fixed.
The service Advisor called back to tell me the ECU was fried and because it was Modded (APR Stage 1) it is not covered by warranty.
2013 GTI DSG APR Stage 1 tune Magnaflow Catback. 18k miles
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I just bought a 2003 Camry, 4 cyl (154000 mi.) and the accelerator is a DBW. It feels different than a cable in that it seems to hesitate and after it shifts into second the car accelerates on its own a little bit. This is not a rev up in between shifts, it actually feels like a lurch. It is most noticeable when speeding up slowly. I may be able to get used to it but it doesn't seem right to me. The dealer wants $120 to hook up their computer.
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my wife has a 03 wagon 1.8t with a manual, lately she and i have been having problems getting car into second under normal acceleration from a stop.
Clutch is good no slippage problems.
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My car has been vibrating under acceleration since past 2 months. It isn't present in first gear but is evident in second and third gear ,and increases with more acceleration. I replaced engine mounts as they were shot,and got the wheels balanced but the vibration still persists
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I noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
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My gfs car (2012 accent) makes a rattle but more specifically it makes this rattle in about 3 gear under acceleration but not heavy acceleration (slow accelerate in a higher gear) at about 1500-2k rpm it makes a rattle and if i really get on it in the gear it keeps going, the second i let off then get back on (lightly) no noise but when you depress the pedal a little hard it does it again (auto trans by the way) I've heard of this before only issue is I don't remember where or who (useless, and wasn't a hyundai accent) anyway anything would be useful, car isn't under warranty so trying to stay out of dealership...
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Max with automatic transmission, 129,000 miles. It's got a higher pitched whine that increases as I accelerate between first and second gear and between 2nd and 3rd. I can't hear once it's in 3rd gear. It sounds like an RC car or early video game race car sound. I can hear it winding down as I slow down through those gears. It's also audible when the car is in neutral or park, but not then the brakes are fully applied. I can't really hear it in reverse.
I bought it used with 65,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what was done before that as far as maintenance/preventative maint. I did get a transmission flush three years ago (don't know the mileage at that time). I don't think this will impact things in any way, but I just changed the spark plugs and wires a few weeks ago.
It has a rough/shuddery idle (but doesn't feel like it's goign to stall out) and seems to be riding rougher than usual lately. I feel it more in the seat/overall car vibrations than through the steering wheel.
Transmission Oil Pump? Planetary Gear Set? I was really hoping to not have an expensive repair, but I am fearing the worst.
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Occasional clunk when truck is shifting gears. Not consistent. On highway at high acceleration clunk is more apparent. Any thoughts. 2004 v10 with new engine placed at 70,000km now at 85000km. Otherwise truck is running great.
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Been having loads of fun with my Excursion. I've completely gone through the rear axle, new Yukon 4.30 ring and pinion and "ALL" new Timken bearings. I set the pinion at 30 inch pounds preload. Back lash is 13 thousands. But now I have a gear whine during acceleration. Slight at first but more noticeable near 50mph. Coasting or decel is quite. But just barely touch the gas pedal and it starts to whine.
I know that the backlash spec is published as 6-10 but other sources state 12-15 thousands. So that's why it's set at 13. Gear pattern looked great to me. In fact most changes I tried had little effect. So is it just normal for a gear set to whine until broken in?? Should I reset the backlash down. I only have about 40 miles on it. But would like to fix before it's wrecks something.
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I have an 04 f150, 210000 klm, had some issues with the iwe actuator and solenoid, i replaced the driver side hub and actuator, replaced the solenoid. When I put it into 4x4 it engages. Now I have a problem under hard acceleration the 4x4 clunks and pops out of gear, and stays out for a few seconds and reengages. happens in hi and low tried unplugging the solenoid to make sure the actuators were locked. same result. I looked at the 2003 tranfercase issues with the bent shift fork, does my truck have the same transfer case?
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I have experienced what I believe is clutch engagement failure or clutch slippage on three occasions over the last 2000 miles on my DSG equipped 2011 GTI. Twice from a complete stop the engine rev to 3000 rpm but the car did not move. I let off the gas then tried again and the car accelerated normally. Once, again when accelerating from a complete stop the car moved relatively slowly while the engine revved, the clutch then seemed to fully grab and the car accelerated normally. I plan to get the car into the dealer in the next couple of weeks but I fully expected that the service staff will not be able to replicate the problem since it occurs infrequently.
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Took the emission test at two different facilities last week, both test failed with an error saying "OBD Communication Failure".
This is a 7 years old car, with 63K km, nothing has been changed on this car, it still has the original wiper blades .
I went to a VW dealership today (Toronto) and this is what they did:
- Performed ODIS diagnostics, results were ok, no DTC,s in the system
- Performed a drive clean, aborted due to communication error
- Performed technical diagnostics cap discharge system, ok.
- Tested ECM ok
- Performed basic wiring test, ok.
- Next step was to remove the cluster and perform 1598 pin out diagnostic - This is where I quit.
I assume at this point I need to go through drive cycle procedure since all codes have been cleared at VW, if it's possible that there is an issue only when generic scan tools (Clean Drive OBD test systems) are used, issues with Drive Clean system software, or there is something else?
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