For those of you who have the 42 Draft Downpipe, I have a weird audible vibration during acceleration and I'm assuming something isn't mounted 100% correctly.
I remember a while back I saw a post about something similar but search is failing me at the moment. So what was the resolution?
I don't know if this is just me or not, but in my R when I have the heat on and turn it gets cold like there is a draft coming from somewhere. It happens in my girlfriends gli too.
View 12 RepliesI just noticed this today..... door draft coming from the middle speaker vent?
View 6 RepliesWe are in the process of taking off the downpipe of our R. We can not figure out the trick to getting the front lower bolt of the downpipe. For that matter we can not even see the damn thing. Do you get to it from the top or bottom?
View 13 RepliesIf I were to install a downpipe on the mk7 and not tune it, will my cel trip. Also if the cel trips is there any damage long term to the car having it on and second if I go to the dealer will I void warranty with a downpipe.
View 14 RepliesI am noticing an audible vibration coming from the rear of my wife's 2004 Sienna van when applying the brakes. I have inspected and confirmed there are no fluid leaks,there is ample material left on all pads and the pads still fit snugly into the retention clips. Also, the pads and rotors show no sign of uneven wear. Front brakes were replaced in 2009.The van currently has ~63000 miles on it.
View 2 Replies2014 Passat 1.8T Gen III manual... Experiencing an audible rumbling with vibration at the front/mid of vehicle under specific circumstances.
*93 octane tune (high torque at low rpm)
*barely perceptible in 3rd, but more in 4th and very much in 5th
*about 1700-2200 rpm ONLY when deep into boost - as soon as I even slightly reduce torque, it goes away
*seems to be related to engine firing frequency (i.e., 2000 rpm = 66Hz firing frequency...still audible and tactile at same time)
*not related to road speed
*sweeping through problem area in 1st or 2nd goes too fast to develop the rumble.
Hypotheses:
*half shaft shake (torque related dynamic runout)
*engine mount/trans mount groundout from torque reaction
*exhaust system ground out due to torque reaction.
It doesn't feel like a misfire, not slipping clutch. I would hate to have to get a 91 octane tune or just avoid the sweet torque at 2k!
I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
As the title says I currently have the idiot light on but I can honestly say the ECU might not be adapted yet. what the solution longer O2 spacers etc...?
View 10 RepliesSo I just installed (well Strasse Autowerks did) my ECS downpipe with high flow yesterday, i have an 2010 GTI Unitronic 1+ and i've been using the car for an hour without any problem and then after that hour the check engine appeared and stays on in my dash.. some guy told me its normal because i have to upgrade to stage 2 so the error would disappear is that right??
And while being here i was also wondering, I'm going to have an intake later next week but what else do i need as equipment for the car for that upgrade?
I Put my stock downpipe back on while having a CEL... never got the stage 2 flash. I can t reset the CEL it keeps coming back on. Do it will reset itself eventually or do I have another problem? It is the cat code I forget the number.
View 8 RepliesHow to keep the driveshaft from spinning while I undo the 10mm 12pts? It just seems around enough to slightly scare me into thinking the car might move, and I can't seem to break them loose.
View 10 RepliesI just recently lowered my mk6 with h&r springs(1.2 front and rear) and installed wheels and tires from tire rack. I am noticing a lot of vibration at the wheel, pedals and seats while accelerating or moving at higher speeds. I had an alignment done after the springs were installed and all 4 tires/wheels have been road force balanced. One of the tires rated at 20lbs which apparently is acceptable but Tire rack sent me a new tire anyway, which I just had put on today.
Still the same vibration is there. Next step tire rack wants to do is switch out all 4 of my Michelin for a different tire. The guys at tires plus feel that there is no issue with the tires and I think I agree. Could the lowering springs be the problem?
I recently changed out my stock clutch for a SB Stg.2 endurance clutch. Under hard acceleration my car has developed a serious vibration. I had all four tires road forced balanced but this did nothing. It almost feels as if I have a bent wheel but had no issues prior to the install.
View 24 RepliesJust bought my R a few months ago and love it so far. I've recently encountered a slight buzz or vibration. I'll get down to the nitty gritty and not bore you with long drawn out information. Basically under heavy acceleration the driver side vibrates/ buzzes down by the floorboard. Now this only happen under heavy acceleration. I even did a test in 1st gear. Heavy accellerate under 2k RPM's, 3k RPM's, 4k RPM's and the vibration happened under these heavy acceleration periods. It's almost like there was also a loss of power during this vibration/ buzz, which leads me to believe it might be the clutch.
I took off the prop shaft and drove in FWD for a few weeks. The vibration was still prominent. Took of both front driveshafts and inspected those and they seem perfect but THE VIBRATION IS STILL HERE. Could this be the clutch?
So I recently bought a GTI and started to fix a couple things. It has a P0420 code so I bought a new downpipe to install. Noticed the stock one was missing 1 of the nuts and the stud had broken off. How get this out? Do I need to remove the turbo? Looks like I do need to remove the turbo to use an extractor set.
View 7 RepliesSo I just had the 10k service done on my GTI and after I got it back everything seemed fine. That is, until under moderate acceleration there was a weird buzz or vibration that came on around 2800-3400rpm coming from what I think is the engine bay or near the firewall on the passenger side. I was able to repeat the issue multiple times and it showed up every time. However, with the car at a stop and in neutral and revving it I can't make the problem occur only when under load, in gear, and traveling at speed. If I could describe it, it sounds like a playing card against bicycle spokes (for those of us who did that when we were kids)..
Anyways, I drove it straight back to the dealer and at that point had closed their service shop but they did do the right thing and give me a loaner car until they can look at it on Monday. How the heck could this pop up after a 10k service? What all do they do besides oil change, tire rotation, and fluid inspection?
I did pop the hood and one of the side of the fuel rail sounded louder than the other, I suspected that maybe one injector is starting to go and it seemed like an isolated noise but perhaps its not an injector at all. Nonetheless it seems this is a non-related issue..
When I accelerate at 70+, I get a very noticeable vibration that is felt into the steering wheel and throughout the cabin. I have 14,000 miles on the car, so I seriously doubt that it's the CV joint. Could it be possible that I lost some wheel weights, and it's become imbalanced?
View 2 RepliesLast week I had my shifter linkages replaced under warranty because the shifter was sweaking like crazy. I know that they had to take a lot of the car apart (center console, exhaust), but I'm not sure exactly what.
The rattle is pretty hard to notice and could easily be mistaken for engine noise, but after owning the car for 2 years, I know that that's never been there. It sounds kind of like a vibration coming from the radio area, or maybe a little lower. What worries me is that it doesn't happen over bumps or uneven roads, only under acceleration, in gear, while moving. Also, it doesn't always happen, sometimes its completely absent.
I was thinking maybe a screw wasn't torqued properly somewhere? I have no clue though, the problem is that I don't really have time to take it back to the dealer right now.
Info: O2J 1.8t, Peloquin LSD, clutchnet 6 puck, VF mounts
Getting a vibration on driver's side during either accel or load up a hill after driving for 20 miles. It's related to distance driven versus engine warm or cold. I can feel it in the pedals, definitely driver's side.
Things checked:
-axles, replaced driver's side, no change
-transmission is full of fluid, looks good
-motor mount bolts tight
-called Peloquins, they said the diff would cause issues while turning and would occur anytime under load, not just when cold
Wheel bearings have about 15k on them and were INA's, and those shouldn't vibrate only on accel or load. I thought about the dogbone, the poly bushings in it are about 35k miles, but makes no sense why it would appear after driving 20 miles.
when I bought my 2003 gti 1.8t it had a small exhaust leak, I decided to investigate today and found that the downpipe flange and turbo flange was rattling around, there's almost 1/16" of play and it's making a rattling noise. I can't tighten the nuts on the studs any more but that might just be from them being seized in place. I'm getting a new gasket and studs and nuts and hopefully that will fix it?
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