Got my 2016! 324 miles ... and only 120 of those miles are mine, dammit. First brand new car. Lights came on as I was exiting the highway, dealer is right there. They gave me CC loaner, and said they wanted my car for the day.
View 10 RepliesI have a honda civic 2000 and recently I noticed that it overheat only after exiting a long drive on highway. The car does not overheat for my normal daily commutes (within the city).
I tried the following:
- Checked coolant on bot radiator and overflow tank.
- Changed the thermostat- No leak on the ground in the garage where I parked the car overnight
- No noise to lead to an eventual issue with water pump
- Radiator fan is kicking ok
- Had a mechanic do the chemical test for the head gasket: negatif
- Found that there is air in the cooling system:tried to burp the system 2 times but air is still in the coolant system. Not sure where its coming from !!?? Might be that this could be causing the overheating ?
- Found a crack on the manifold and changed the manifold then tried to get rid of the air (burping the system): no success. The air is still not removed completely.
- Changed the radiator cap.
What can I do next to diagnose the overheating condition that happens only after exiting long drive highway?
09 Ford Fusion, 5-sd manual, 37k. For the past week or so I've noticed after exiting the highway and stopping at the bottom of the ramp the engine will idle high. When I shift into neutral to wait at the light it idles at about 1,500 - 1,800 rpm. I will slowly drop to about 1,000 rpm and quickly drop from that to 750 rpm which is the normal idle. When getting off the ramp yesterday I put it in neutral while coasting and not touching the gas pedal, clutch or anything, the idle went from 1,500 to 2,000 rpm. Driving around town it seems normal, and the car drives normally with no issues on the highway up until I stop. What could be causing the weird idle issue?
View 11 Replies2004 gli , 1.8t , 136k , 6 speed
The car started misfiring after exiting the freeway, at the light it felt like it was gonna cut off. The brake pedal is stiff like the car is off. When it's idling is when it's most noticeable. It smoothed out after 2nd gear at like 35mph but still not right. The pedal thing has never happened before but I knew the sputtering was the coils, so I had it scanned and sure enough. 5 codes.random misfire.. random misfire all four cylinders.. so I bought 4 and replaced the old ones.. Changed the Sparks as well. No change.. The cel came back on..still idling rough.. What it could be.
Truck '02 F250 SuperCab - I was having an issue with the door ajar light staying on and the radio not shutting off upon exiting the truck. After having no luck with the WD-40 fix, I replaced the door switch sensor on the driver's side door and disconnected the negative battery cable for a few minutes (maybe 5-10).
Problem solved or so I thought...a few days later (approximately 5) the door ajar light came back on and the radio did not shut off. I disconnected the negative cable and sure enough that fixed it...again The problem is that every few days I have to go thru this. I'm not sure if it's related or not, but the CD player has started giving me "error reading disc" on even brand new CD's.
Driving home on the high way today the amber PCS light starts flashing for no apparent reason. I had been driving for about 3 hours at high speed and was in the last hour of my return from holidays when it came on.
View 3 RepliesOkay....I have an 01 blazer 6 cylinder 4.3. For a while it was missing fairly bad until I had the distributor replaced and the problem went away for about 2 months. Now it seems to have the same problem again so I am wondering if that wasn't the real problem. Here is what is going on. The tac needle bounces and it feels like the engine is misfiring. When I am driving on the highway sometimes the CEL starts flashing. Sometimes it stops and sometimes it doesn't. Plus now it feels like when it changes gears it's lurching. It only does that sometimes. The odd part is there seems to be no distinguishable pattern to the lurching. I think the misfire could be just the timing needs to be adjusted.
View 2 RepliesMy 98 ford ranger overdrive light starts flashing usually when I drive on the highway. When I get off the highway and drive in town with o/d light flashing the truck downshifts hard when slowing down at stoplights.,also when almost to stop i hear ticking sound in tranny until i come to complete stop. My ranger is 4wd 4.0 and automatic.
View 2 RepliesSo today i was pulling into traffic from a driveway. As i merged in I noticed my Traction Control light flashing for like 3 seconds then it went off.
View 9 RepliesAbout 4 months ago, I had the battery replaced since the car was not starting easily and they said voltage was not good. They also shimmed the ignition coil at the same time. I thought it was a bit early for a new battery but ok.
Last Friday I started getting a flashing battery light on the console but no other issues. Thought I would bring it in Monday.
Sunday I was driving on the highway and all warning lights came on, flashing, console died then came back on with a bunch of warning lights and then the car died. I managed to get off the highway with about 10% power and park in a lot. Car would not start once I turned it off, click, click, click, click like no power etc but rest of power in car seemed fine. Started fine Monday morning and I drove it to the dealership.
The dealership says the code was P2502 (Charging System Voltage). They are going to replace the Battery Sensor first and then if that doesn't work replace the Alternator.
2002 7.3 4R100 ... The truck started flashing the O/D light pulling a 9K lb trailer on the highway.
The transmission codes read were P0705 (Range Selector) and P0873 (bad 3-4 shift - RPMs did not drop).
On the highway, the TCC seemed to lock up fine in 4th (OD button was set to leave O/D ON). When the truck would downshift (not often) then it would sometimes would rev high when it downshifted. It was like 3rd was slipping or it was downshifting into 2nd instead of 3rd. I think it was doing a 4-2 downshift but not 100% sure.
What confuses me is that if it is doing a 4-2 downshift then it would have to change state of both valve body solenoids. Is it possible that it was doing a 4-3 shift but solenoid was sort of sticking? Trans fluid looks fine.
I have read other posts where people had same problem (titled 3rd gear slipping), but they never seemed to resolve the problem in the thread. How likely is it that the solenoid is the problem? It seems to drive fine in 3rd when the O/D OFF button is pressed and O/D is not allowed.
I finally drove the Celica for the first time to work after rebuilding the front end. As I was exiting off the freeway the car suddenly stalled. I coasted into the lot and tried to restart. The car struggled to restart and when it finally restarted it ran extremely rough with a lot of metal on metal clatter. I tried to drive it to the other end of the parking lot and the clatter got worse and worse. Sounds like the contents of a tool box in a paint shaker.
It's always run great prior to this. The only thing that seems to have changed is the work I did to the front end and the replacement of some seals on the timing chain cover. The car still has oil but I can see oil splatter on the bottom of the distrubutor. I'm going to have it towed home in the morning.
Automatically lock doors 30 seconds after exiting car. I have found a maker of a simple module that can be easily added under the dash with five wires. easy to install and does NOT require integration into the databus (CANbus) system. Installed on 2011 GenIII currently.
The processor looks for the (+) ignition to be turned on, then waits for it to go back off. It then looks at the (-) door pin input and waits for the door to open then close again. At that point, there is an LED output that starts flashing slowly for 20 seconds. During this 20 second period the processor is monitoring both the ignition input and the door pin input - if either of them toggle their state the timer pauses, then starts over once both signals are clear.
After 20 seconds the module outputs a short beep through an external hood mounted beeper and then the LED starts flashing quickly for 10 seconds, while the processor continues to monitor the inputs (and resets to the very beginning if something changes). At the end of this 10 second period the module outputs a (-) door lock signal. Finally, the LED output flashes at a slow rate to simulate an aftermarket security system.
LED and beeper optional when installing.
So once in awhile, after I park my car, turn it off, then open my door, the inside of the car would beep, as if I were to leave with the lights still on, except my lights are off. On the MID screen, there are no error messages.
Sometimes it's one long beep (about 1.5 seconds)
Occasionally it will be just repeating short beeps.
Doesn't happen all the time, just once in awhile.
On several occasions, with SKS fob in pocket, I have parked, turned off the car, opened the door, locked the doors with the interior door lock button (on the panel, not the physical door lock), exited the vehicle and closed the door, and then right about the time I make it to the rear of the car on my way to whatever store I'm going to, I hear the unlock "beep" and all the doors unlock.
Sometimes I'm more than a few steps away from the car. And sometimes I don't catch it, and come back to the car and find it's been unlocked all the time. It's like the SKS realizes I'm sitting in the car when I lock the doors, and maybe I'm too quick and it still thinks the fob is in the car when the door closes, so it unlocks the doors. But it's not the long "the-wife-stuck-her-purse-back-in-the-car-with-the-fob-again-even-though-she-knows-it-can't-lock" beep either, although maybe it's because it will let me lock the doors with a fob inside if a door is still open.
Long story short, at 77,100 miles, my engine failed yesterday. I bought the car new about 18 months ago, and have used it for work ever since.
After exiting the interstate yesterday, the car started knocking lightly. By the time I got home (about 3-4 miles), it was barely running, and knocking REALLY bad. No check engine lights or anything, and everything was working perfectly until then. I was sent a tow truck under warranty, and it's at the dealer now until Monday when they diagnosis it. This seems ridiculous for a new Hyundai
I really like my 2012 Prius v, but in cool or cold weather, which happens quite often in Seattle, when I first exit my parking spot, there is a "moaning sound". I have relayed that info to my Toyota dealership and was told that Toyota is aware of the issue but has no fix. I tried contacting Toyota online and have made several attempts to get updated info at my dealership but have had no luck.
View 2 RepliesMy RXh developed a suspension squeak which occurs during wallowy roads and when entering/exiting driveways. Anything that gives the suspension a good workout causes it. When I brought my RX in for its 30K service, they replaced both struts because they were leaking. The SA also noticed that my tires would need replacing at the next service interval. 30K miles sounds about right to me. He even pointed out that the rear tire closest to us was exhibiting more wear on the outside. btw, these are the dunlops
When I first got the vehicle back, I thought the noise had improved. But it was wishful thinking because its just as bad as it was when before I had the struts replaced. This is a bit of a cause for concern since basically there is a more serious issue happening if leaking struts were not the cause. (btw, I am irked that they put an additional 10 miles on my car while they had it and did not notice the squeak was still there).
Anyhow, now that I have it back, I notice that both the rear tires are exhibiting extreme wear on the outer rim, or toe wear.
Now for the million dollar question. Since the rear suspension is pretty much failing in multiple places, can it be to blame for the abnormal tire wear? I guess it is difficult to say for sure since we don't know what else is wrong with the suspension, but it they are causing my tires to wear unevenly, then the cost of tire replacement should be prorated and/or sold to me at a reduced price. Mind you, I bring my vehicle in every 5 thousand miles and I assume they do the necessary tire rotations.
For some stupid reason, my truck decided to lose power today when exiting the freeway. D/s egt gauge verified it with no increase in temp when stepping on go pedal. After about a minute, I could feel it gain power. So, rolled into fuel station, and topped off tank. While filling, I popped the hood and started messing with the uvch and looking around. It was then I noticed that darn hose riding on top of a ton of wires. Pulled said hose up and sure enough, a wire is shafed clean off of insulation. Anyway, something to check while looking around under there....
View 4 RepliesThe ride is okay until I reach concrete (grey colored) pavement on a highway going at highway speeds. Then it gets very bouncy, where even the st wheel vibrates. I can even hear some kind of noise coming from the back as it's bouncing on the highway. As soon as the pavement changes, this stops and it goes back to a comfortable ride. I also have some weird intermittent crunching type of noise that I hear while turning. But that is rare. There are about 700 miles on this car now.
View 12 RepliesMy daughter just bought a 2106 Hyundai Sonata Sport loaded. Within one week of driving it she noticed a lot of front end vibration at highway speeds. She took it back to the dealer. They test drove it and figured it needed an alignment. It didn't fix the problem. Hyundai corp was notified and the gave permission to put on 4 new tires in case there was damage from the original wheels sitting. Still has not corrected the problem. They have one more try before I demand lemon law and require a new car replacement.
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