Golf/GTI VII :: 2016 - Clutch Pedal Vibration And Pulsation At Higher RPM
Oct 12, 2015
I have been having troubles with my 2016 GTI clutch. There has always been a gritty/sandy feeling while disengaging/engaging from the first day.
On top of it, this weekend I noticed that there is a vibration/pulsation in the pedal at higher rpm (3000+), as this weekend my car was close to the break-in 1000 miles, so wanted to take it out for some spirited driving.
While shifting 2-3, 3-4 at 3000-4000 rpm, I can feel a rough pulsation in the pedal (no noise) when the pedal is around mid-way pressed.
I further experimented, to see if this happens in neutral, so parked the car with E-brakes, and then pressed gas pedal, and pumped the clutch. Have the same rough pulsation/vibration.
I took it to the dealer (right infront of my workplace), and they said this is normal, "you are just feeling the engine from your clutch"...
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My car is a 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L. I've been having a brake pulsation problem with my car for few months. I feel the vibration on the pedal and also on the steering wheel when I brake at high speeds. And also I feel like the pedal goes too low and not responsive enough.
So I took the car to a local shop 3 days ago and they told me that the front rotors are bad and have to be replaced. They installed new Wagner front brake rotors and pads. But still I get the same problems described above. Today I drove on the highway and got the same vibration both on pedal and steering when I apply brakes.
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I have about 350 miles on my new jetta and i will like to know if its just me or did everyone with a manual go through the same, i feel that up shifting at higher rpms like 4k i feel like the clutch is grinding i actually feel it in the pedal, I haven't gone higher than 4k due to break in period. I also notice that there is no engage while getting out of first almost like its slipping but it is not, i have driven manual most of my life so i know i am not slipping the clutch.
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This morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
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2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
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I change my own pads as a good lifetime warranty with free replacement from Autozone is great!
But with the Tribeca... I changed the front rotors just like all my other cars over the years.. and now there is pretty severe pulsation when trying to brake... I've checked the rotors and pad replacement twice now and all looks perfect.
I searched this pulsation issue and saw on a Jaquar site that you can ruin the ABS on some cars when you don't drain excess fluid as you push the piston back to install then new thicker pads..
Is this an issue for B9? I don't see it anywhere... I'm ready to bring it in the shop.. the pulsation ONLY happens when braking and gets more severe when stopping from progressively higher speeds...
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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I have a 2014 Passat TDI with a 6 speed manual. When the clutch pedal is depressed between upshifts, there is an audible groaning sound and a vibration in the clutch pedal. The dealer replaced the throwout bearing but the problem persisted. They then replaced the entire transmission and the noise/vibration is still there. The noise follows engine RPM. Is this normal for the TDI powertrain? The dealer had never encountered the noise but they did find another car on the lot with the same noise.
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I noticed a pulsating feeling when I applied the brakes in my 2001 Ford Focus. I figure that it might be warped rotors, but after driving the car for a while, it seems to have dissipated. The car was sitting around for a few weeks. I read that it could just be rust buildup, but I feel that would require more than a few weeks of sitting around. Is there any way to check for myself, short of taking off the rotor?
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I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I have a 2013 sonata gls and I bought it new, it only has 4,000 km on it. I don't know if this has always happened and I am just noticing now or just all of a sudden occurred but when I was stopped at a red light today and I had my defrost on, (heat fan on) it felt like my gas pedal there was a slight pulsation that I could feel. I also noticed earlier in the summer when the ac is on it seems like the car pulsates as well or the engine just sounds rougher. It seems to go away when the ac or heater fan is on 0. Is this an issue or serious problem? Why this is occurring?
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Ok so the brakes are new and for some reason at higher speeds, i feel the pedal vibrate as if its a bad rotor....gonna grease the pins and pads this weekend to see if theres a diff. But what gets me is that it Squeals as if the pads are shot as well in the front.
The title problem is that when i brake its smooth ish until 10 MPH where then it feels like the pedal goes to MUSH and i hear an ERRRRR sound as the car comes to a stop. it almost sounds like ABS/ESP while im sliding to a stop in the snow.... Expect there's no snow.
I don't have a high tech phone to record the noise. It never used to make this sound and i feel there is an actual problem.
I am gonna try flushing the brake system with new fluid, take the front brakes off and re grease everything. yesterday seemed to be the day my dash decides to light up like a Christmas tree...
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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I had a front brake job done on a 2002 Dodge Dakota pickup at 85000 miles. When I stepped on the brake, I felt pulsation in the pedal and a sort of wobbly feeling in the steering wheel. Also the brakes were making noises while driving. Classical sign of a warped rotor?! Long story short brand new rotors, brake pads and calipers, later the pulsation is mostly gone but the braking is still not smooth at one point while the tires are turning. Now i do have to older tires on the front but i just bought two brand new tires for the rear. Would it be wise to put the new tires on front to see if there might be some unevenness caused by the old tires before i take it back to the shop?
Also the feeling of the brakes catching on one point seems non existent or so minimal I can not be sure if the road surface interfering while driving slow of applying the brakes gently. But slowing down from higher speeds (above 40 mph) and using more then gentle braking ( not standing on the pedal with both feet) it is definitely there. Before the brake job braking caused the steering turning right. (sign of more braking action on the right - right?). Now with new stuff still pulls to the right but not as strongly. Should not this disappear with the brake job? Or get the new tires on front and see what gives?
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I've been noticing that when I step on it some times my clutch pedal seems to get stiff and if I press on it a couple times its normal again. This has been going on for awhile now and I've just been driving it normal but when I do decide to get on it then the pedal will get stiff..
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Can switch out the R's clutch pedal for the Audi R8? Was in an Audi showroom yesterday and there was an R8, and it was actually open. It was manual and the clutch placement was perfect, way better than the R. I've got short legs, but the R8's reach was great. The R is a bit long for me.
I know that there is compatibility across Audi/VW platforms, but I'm not sure of the R8. The TT is compatible for sure but I don't know if the clutch pedal is the same or not.
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Just as the title states. When I put the AC on in the car my clutch pedal gets some play in it, enough that it messes up shifting and gets jerky. I tried searching, but no results
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Ok so I took my R out to look track to get some 1/4mile passes in. Didn't do anything out of the norm. Took my first pass and noticed that much clutch pedal wasn't feeling right. It wasn't grabbing like it usually does, it was grabbing close to the floor. I took it out of gear and pumped the clutch peddle a few times and then it grabbed like it normally would. I've never had something like this happen in any of my VWs or any other car. What may have happened? I was thinking maybe a slave cylinder issue?
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Put in a brand new Clutch Masters stage 2 kit with flywheel and throwout bearing. Also installed ecs bleeder block. Got everything back together and bled the system. But the pedal is still sticking to the floor with no pedal feel at all.
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I have a question about an annoying issue that I'm having with the clutch pedal: is it normal for the clutch pedal to knock or vibrate whenever the AC is on? I ask because it only happens when the AC is turned on. The knocking goes away if I fully depress the clutch pedal or only lightly depress it. It seems to only occur in the in-between.
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So my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
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