Golf/GTI VII :: 2015 - Violent Knocking Under Loss Of Traction
Oct 2, 2015
I've got and love my 2015 GTI w/PP 6MT. Under heavy throttle, as the car loses grip, I experience a rather violent knocking, it's really violent and feels as if it's damaging the car. I'm sure it's one or more of the assists kicking in, but which one; ASC, ESC, XDS+, or is it the VAQ? I'm concerned I'm damaging my car. which systems are the culprit, how do I defeat them, and is this damaging my car?
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I noticed over the last couple days what feels like loss of traction. When the turbo kicks in around 38-4k I get this rumble that i think is wheel spin. Am i wrong here? is that what that is or clutch slip?
Havent noticed any traction light. Is this haladex? I don't know where to start here.
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Let's say I accelerate hard and hit some potholes and/or bumps in the road. this causes wheel spin/loss of traction. could anything be damaged if i keep accelerating past all the bumps while the traction control keeps trying to stop the wheels from spinning freely? I am talking about throttle to the floor in 2nd gear over bumps/small potholes
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2015 c has disable TRAC button, can it be retrofitted? it's all software and ECU. So can my 2014 be retrofitted with the disable TRAC control like the 2015 .
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I've struggled all day in my tiny inspection pit fitting the catback, un-resonated A'pexi system which looks and sounds fab. Problem is the engine light and trc off light are now on?
I don't know why given the cats are still there? Have I upset the lambda sensors somehow? How to clear it? Can the fault codes be cleared a certain way?
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Is it ok to turn off traction control all the time? will it make me slide around more in wet conditions? will it affect fuel economy?
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I have a 2009 Prius with about 33,000 miles. Owned it about 6 months. It has the original Goodyear tires. I notice that when I do a quick turn, or go over a bump or something like that, I will have a quick moment of "squeal", which I imagine means a little loss of traction.
Is this an indication that my tires are ready for replacement? They still have a reasonable amount of tread. Or is this simply characteristic of this vehicle? Or might it indicate some other problem?
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Just letting Gen III drivers know that using an OBDII splitter and two gauges can sometimes cause a loss of regen braking and traction assist accompanied by various yellow lights on the dash. It can be restored by switching the vehicle off, unplug the OBDII splitter and restarting the car. This has happened to me on three seperate occasions.
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I've lost traction going around corners. My daily route takes me down a dirt/gravel road that has a couple of tight curves. It seems that last week my 6 month old, just rotated BFG All Terrain's could run these curves with no problem. Now I'm drifting like the Duke boys running from the law. Even making a right turn on dry pavement gets some squak from the tires.
Truck is a 2002 F150 fx4 with 3.50 LS rear diff with about 185000 miles.
So I have two theories. First is the shocks. Standard Rancho that came with the truck. I don't think they've ever been replaced. My bigger concern is the rear diff. I've had a shudder when I take off at corners that indicates it needs a fluid change or friction mod. added. I did the latter a couple of weeks ago. Didn't really work.
I'm wondering, can the clutch pack in the rear diff go out or go bad? If so, what happens? Does it default to an open diff or spool the axles? Or will it just grenade the whole rear end? The loss of traction is my symptom right now. Possibly some wheel hop on braking today, but I couldn't tell if that was just the road.
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I'm just under 1,000 miles on my 2015 GS350 F Sport RWD and starting to get on it a bit more now that I feel it's broken in. Tonight I put it Sport + mode and got on it from a 1st gear roll. The traction control light came on and I shifted to second and it still spun a bit more, after shifting to third and fourth I down shifted because I was turning into the neighborhood. Once I down shifted a bit more I got a few quick beeps. My wife and I were like what was that? Was it a warning that it's cold out or that I lost traction or something? When I downshifted it revved up to around 4K rpm but nothing crazy. Just wondering what these beeps were? Seem to come from the cluster area behind the steering wheel. Temps were around 38 degrees at the time.
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I have a Prius 2005 with an Engineer 4kwh kit installed [v4 bms]. Lately, I have experienced several instances where the Prius suddenly looses much of it's traction power and the engine races, and the red triangle and engine service lights go on at the dashboard. This happens with the kit turned on, and often after a few kit on/off cycles to get more ev mode. The Prius battery is sometimes low, sometimes not, when this happens. Not sure if it also occurs with the kit off.
The Prius seems to retain some traction power up-down by the throttle pedal, but most power goes missing. On the other hand the engine races and does not seem to power the wheels or vary by throttle. When I pull off the road using brakes normally, and turn off the car/engine and restart [kit now off], the car seems to reset and can resume driving normally, but the error code lights [triangle-engine] lights stay on.
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As the title says. Last night my MKIV started this jump in the steering. No load or decelerating, the wheel does a pulse or jump, fairly violent. I drove ten miles with no problem, then a couple jumps, then fine. Pulled tires and inspected, checked bearings, tie rods, ball joints. nothing obvious. Could it be something in the power steering?
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My 07 Prius recently started to get a traction control warning and loss of power on smooth, dry roads at 65mph on an interstate highway..... There was enough space between us and the 80,000 lb truck behind us..... As we slowed the warning abated and power was restored. BUT, the car will not maintain 65 mph without this recurring. Toyota has not been useful. Nothing stored on the pcu indicates what may have occurred.
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2015 AWD. How do you fully turn off the traction control?
Seems like i can press the button and it comes back in a minute. I tried holding it down.
Also, the seat belt chime. I take off my belt once I get in a parking lot, and the chime is annoying as hell.
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2014 F250 6.2. I turn traction control off while plowing or any winter driving. With it off I can spin rear tires,but as soon as there is the slightest turn in the front wheels its like something takes over. Lose of power and sounds like anti lock brakes kick in. Is this normal. I like to throw in 2wd and spin around while plowing. Also the kid in me has never left and I like to drift in turns. It takes all the fun out of winter driving.
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My 2007 Prius has 120,000 miles. I live in a mountainous area. I need to climb 3 miles at 6% grade to get out of my neighborhood. Lately I've been noticing the traction battery loses charge fairly quickly and I've been thinking about replacing the battery. Much of my driving is in steep hills and I run a full charge cycle many times a day, so I guess I should expect some loss of life.
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Last night I experienced a somewhat troubling event. My C had a horrendous knocking on a cold start @40 Fahrenheit or so. Shook the whole car. It lasted about 3-5 seconds, and ran perfectly afterwards, even making another cold start later on @30 without issue.
How worried should I be, and what's my recommended course of action?
2015 Prius C TWO, not II as uppercase roman numerals were used for model year 2010 Prius, w/5616 miles
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My car shifted wrong (i don't know how since it is automatic) and heard a loud knocking noises and lost power and then she shut down and turned off. called Hyundai assurance and they towed it to the nearest dealership since my dealership is an hour and a half away from my school. I don't know how this happened. I tried to crank it back up. heard a loud squeal maybe water pump? and she turns on but the rpms wouldn't go past 500 rpms well there she goes.
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I have a 2015 Sonata 2.0T and I have noticed knocking noise when driving. I experience it more when on the highway/freeway. I mainly experience it during acceleration. Not hard acceleration but when I want to overtake or when the road curves and coming out of the curve -I step in the gas a bit, I hear the knock.
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Alright, I have a 2002 f350 7.3 4x4 ext cab xlt with 300k miles. Bought in may 2016 with 260k miles and towards November started running rough and felt like a loss of power. Had a no start but a new gray cps fixed that issue. Running fine. About a week later started it up and it had a rough idle, felt like not all cylinders/injectors were working. Was "knocking" and a loss of power. I was in the army at the time and stationed in Georgia, took it to a local diesel shop in Georgia and they confirmed my icp sensor was bad and injector #1 , #5 #7 were bad. Work was busy and money was scarce so I left it as it is and was saving up to buy the new parts. Then one day approx a week after the visit to the shop, I started the truck up and it ran fine. No misfire no knock no rough idle, drove fine for about a month.
In December, I was on vacation in florida to see my parents, drove the truck down, ran fine. While on vacation one day in a Walmart parking lot the truck didn't start up. Couldn't fix any issues then so towed the truck to my parents house. Did more troubleshoot, replaced fuel filter, cps, ipr valve, icp sensor, glow plugs, glow plug relay, ebpv pedestal was replaced with a ebpv delete pedestal. All parts bought oem and/or from riffraff diesel. Still would not start up. So then I bought a refurbished IDM from eBay, oem and then the truck finally started up one day but running rough again like it used to, then it wouldn't start again. So then, I replaced the PCM with a reflashed/refurbished one off eBay and boom truck started up, still running rough but now it starts up every time.
Now, took all eight injectors out and replaced all the o rings. Cleaned them up and put them back in, truck still running rough. Injectors didn't appear damaged nor the wiring harness so now I bought three reman injectors from riffraff. And replaced those three bad injectors. One of them is not spitting oil out the oil spout on the injector.
My dad has worked on freightliner semi trucks for years and is fairly knowledgeable when it comes to diesels. However he did something very amateurish the other day. So two injectors were installed while we were still waiting on the third in the mail. He wanted to see how the engine reacts when that one bad injector was not in play, but instead of unplugging the injector under the valve cover, he cut the wire outside the valve cover to the injector. He stated it's not a big deal and he can solder the wires back together. But once he cut the wire, the truck sounded a lot stronger, still rough idle but definitely stronger. Before, you would be pedal to the floor and the truck barely moves forward but now the truck will lunge forward. A big difference in power.
Now today, third injector came, swapped them out and fired up truck. We didn't solder the wire yet just quick connect, same you would use to connect wires for a car stereo. The new injector was not spitting oil out the oil spout. Even at high rev and truck warmed up. Truck still runs better with that one injector unplugged.
Tomorrow we will troubleshoot if somehow there's wires that grounding out or burnt out somewhere but as of right now everything seems to be in order, the uvch are tight, and no signs of anything burnt.
Triple checked everything, still getting fuel pressure, still getting oil pressure what gives? I also replaced the MAP sensor. Fuel pump is fine, fuel gets to fuel bowl. The next thing I'm thinking is maybe the hpop but we have oil pressure so idk..
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Not sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
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