Golf/GTI VII :: 2015 VW - EPC And Engine Light Came On
Nov 12, 2014
I have a new 2015 VW Golf TSI Auto, it only has about 1200kms on it. This morning my girlfriend was driving it to the train station and the "EPC" and engine light both came on, she said it was very sluggish after that. I went to pickup the car and it drove normally without any lights on to the dealer - they told me to just monitor it and if it comes back on then I should schedule an appointment. I am just worried because this car is brand new.
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I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
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Issues with check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer says it is either a gas cap problem or the type of gas being put in the car. Dealer recommends only using Shell fuel. The car drives fine and am wondering if this might be sensitive fuel detection.
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Yesterday I was driving about 120 km/h on the highway, my 2015 GTI (DSG) suddenly decelerated to about 110 km/h -- the sensation was that the engine downshifted on its own.
The transmission was in Drive, and I wasn't in sport / automatic mode. An error message appeared on the dash display telling me, 'this isn't a good time to put your car in reverse' -- or something to that effect (I don't remember the exact wording as by the time I pulled over to the side of the road the message was gone, but the yellow warning notification symbol was still up.
I turned off the car, let it sit for a minute or two, and then restarted it. The yellow warning symbol was no longer lit up, so after letting the car idle of a minute, I pulled back onto the highway and proceeded to my destination without further incident.
The car is at the dealer this morning for diagnostics.... One thing to note: It's been very cold here in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada these last couple of days (-25 C) and yesterday I didn't 'warm up' the car as much as I normally would as I was running late for an appointment. Wondering if that might have had an effect... It's the only thing I can think of that's a variable.
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Car has been running rough for a few days. Last night my engine light came on p0017. Called the dealer and they couldn't get it in until Monday. They said if the light wasn't flashing just bring it in then. So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and the car started much smoother and the light went off. Drove into the city and once I got to my destination the light came back on and the car was running rough again. Decided to finish up and head home. However once I got in to make the drive home I could now hear a rattle when I accelerated coming from the engine. Then the oil light would come on every time I hit the gas to accelerate. I made it home as slow as possible but when I checked the oil it's not even reading on the dip stick and the dip stick smells burnt. No oil on the floor, oil filter and plug shows no leaks. I have noticed the past few weeks that my exhaust tips are dirtier than usual and black drops were all over the rear bumper and back of the trunk. Could this thing really have blown out that much oil. I just changed the oil less tHan 1000 miles ago.
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Bought a brand new F250 6.7 it has 7000 miles in it now and the check engine light comes on and the truck goes into limp mode. I have taken it in to the dealership twice they said there is no code they can find and they just reset the check engine light and it does ok for a bit then starts the cycle all over again. It also is only getting about 6.5 mpg....
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Just wondering if RC owners have noticed if the memory setting buttons on the drivers door panel forward of the door lock illuminate in low light conditions. I could swear they were illuminated at one time but now are not..
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I have never had this to happen. The oil cam worked loose on my 2015 TSI and oil covered the engine bay. I don't know if this could cause any damage. I had only driven it from the gas station a mile and it happened in the driveway at home when I stopped. Smells terrible. I did not even mess with the gas cap when I gassed up.
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So, the engine light is on again and after some pretty intensive TLC with a trusted mechanic. She's also not pulling like she used to. I'm thinking turbo, but need to get back into working in the garage again -- I was a bit of a hack to start anyway!
What engine specific and overall maintenance todos should I put on the to-learn-and-schedule for-some-coming-weekend list. I would like to rebuild an engine one day, but have only witnessed two in person as the bystander and have a lot to learn.
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I was driving down the highway and hit a "dip" that wasn't marked, and shortly after the engine lite came on. I have a skid plate and the oil level and temp is good.
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So i was driving to school today and my check engine light went on.. I still don't know whats wrong i' m going to go check after school. But for few days i heard this rattling sound coming from my engine..
Could that set off my engine light?
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Car has had a hard time starting battery is charged but still needed extra power to get the car started this morning as I am driving car shut off at every stop now it has a rough idle with both the check and esp light on any have this problem before.
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So recently bought vagcom to do a bunch of changes. Have a cel and the code is intake manifold flap position sensor. I have looked around and lots of ppl saying they took car in and vw fixed no issues blah blah blah. Well I have an issue. Cuz my car is not covered under warranty any more. And so I called local vw dealer and they told me I need to replace my throttle body? I thought I had to change my intake manifold and flapper motor.
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Some replaced the rear shock absorbers with Bilstein B$ OEM shocks. One claimed it fixed the problem.
VW dealers and mechanic claim that is normal for the car , no repair necessary?!!?
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What's the deal with these stupid strut pucks on the '15 GTI's. I mean I have been reading on these forums so much about these strut pucks. I would figure if volkswagen would be get their mechanics who inspect the vehicles would at least have the decency to thoroughly jack up the vehicle, carefully find the pucks inside the struts and take them out before the car is delivered to any customer. there is no reason why the customer who just bought a MK7 GTI drive it home and they have to jack up the vehicle themselves to find these strut pucks. it doesn't make any sense. Hopefully VW won't have these darn things in 2015 or 2016.
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This whole time I thought it was a bad or dirty MAF and it's not as I replaced it 3 times. Car hessitetes and throws a ESP light on so now I think it's problem with abs or brakes.
I have engine code:
-16486 P0102 Air mass meter G70 signal too low
I do have a VF MAF harness extension cause used to be S/C maybe that's why the signal is low, then 2 abs codes:
-01314045 Engine control module (ECM) check DTC memory there isn't much info on this but I heard a lot of people replace their ABS control module cause VW says most have short in them but in ECS tuning they don't have one for R32 like R32 doesn't have it. Does R32 have it.
-00495 ESP - sensor unit, voltage supply
I tried clearing all the codes but comes right back followed by a hesitation.
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I've got a '13 CW Loaded 4DR. Its got just under 40K miles. Tune wise its the STG2+ from I.E., been tuned for maybe 10K miles. I was fueling up and I always tighten the cap correctly as Oregon has Fuel Transfer Technicians, AKA People who don't care whether your fuel cap is on right or not. So soon after the fuel cap light came on, pulled over and tightened it again. Light went away. Next fuel fill up, same thing. Third fuel up, same fuel cap light and then CEL came on.
Ive got VAGcom and checked for codes and got the small leak detected twice and then the large leak detected code. So I was thinking it was just a cap. I swapped gas caps with my brothers MK4 R32 to maybe get lucky and the code returns. Thats impossible for it to fall too, so I dug deeper. I checked the N80 valve as I remember those being an issue on 1.8t and old Flows, So i pinched off the line to it and performed the test again, and bam, no more code for large leak.
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My check engine light just came on. the engine seems to be running fine. I used my memo scanner and these codes came up. I am not sure what they mean. What exactly needs to be fixed? 2010 MK6 GTI
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Coming and going away on the next to 2nd engine start. Usually coming on after a hot run, or a hot day. Stays off for a month, then comes back. Runs fine, no symptoms, no other noticeable abnormalities.
Besides Ross Tech, VCDS, are there other softwares or devices that work for diagnostic and maintenance purposes? I have no interest in re-programming factory functions, just maintenance.
2008 R32
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Just popped on at exactly 97,600k, What could be some of the potential snafu's? Or is it just more preventative as it needs proper service. Will be taking it to Dealer, but just curious as to what it could be.
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I was just at work tonight and went out and started my car for it to warm up (it is -20) and go back inside for about 15 mins, I come out and as I am walking back to my car. I notice tons of exhaust is blowing out from the bank puffing like a steam engine and idling insanely rough with the RPM gauge at about 900 RPM with a EPC code. I immediately shut off the car. Cautiously turn the car back on. Car is idling normally, EPC code is gone, rev it a bit. Everything seems fine.
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