I have a 2015 VW GTI SE and I have noticed in the past that my car stutters while slowing drifting in traffic. Last weekend while driving around a parking lot it stuttered again only this time it felt like someone was jerking my car back and forth. I used to chalk it up to being normal, but this can't be normal. I don't like my local dealership, so I'm trying to avoid them if I can.
View 6 RepliesMy 2004 Accent GLS has stalled intermittently for me and my daughter several times. However, the mechanics cannot replicate the problem and it is not revealing any codes when analyzed. Additional details would include the fact that the stalling incidents have occurred while sitting in slow traffic or when slowing when approaching an intersection. After it stalls, 3 of the 4 times it started again within 10 minutes.
This last time, it took several hours before we were able to restart it. There is no fuel smell when restarting. The check engine light is not on. The problem actually began as a "failure to start" problem, which I thought could have been a faulty battery as, even though the engine was turning over and I didn't really suspect the battery, it would start when jumped. The problem then moved to a stalling problem.
So far, I've replaced a battery (probably a waste), the mechanic found some frayed wires coming from the ignition which he fixed and I'm now having them replace the crank sensor. Does replacing this sensor, though no code is apparent, on the right track? Should I be focused elsewhere? Is there a common 2004 Accent problem? It's my daughter's first car and only has 67,000 miles on it, so I'm in no hurry to get a new car!
So to start off, I own a 2000 golf gls 2.0 it's got 182000 miles on it ... My rpm gauge does some thing weird intermittently. I have an exhaust on it so that's how I know this is happening.
I'll be sitting in traffic, idling, and all of a sudden my rpms go from ~900 to ~700. I start going and I shift into second and as I'm shifting the rpms fall really quickly and if I let it fall all the way it doesn't stop falling at 900 like it usually does. It goes all the way down to ~300rpms and bounces back up to 700. When it gets down to 300 the car starts shaking like it's going to stall and it barely catches itself.
I have a 2012 GTI Autobahn, w/automatic, bought it w 7k miles on it and it was chipped. It runs great and is crazy fast. But, it has a lag in acceleration SOMETIMES when moving and coasting slow in traffic and then pouncing on the accelerator to change lanes, the accelerator is flat like its not getting fuel. It wouldn't do it when the dealer mechanic drove it.
View 2 RepliesThis has been happening intermittently for a little over a year now. When sitting in traffic, my car begins to overheat. I've had two different mechanics look at it - the first swapped out the radiator cap.
The second said my coolant levels were low, but he pressure tested the system and found no leaks. He recommended I check my levels before taking long trips - so this weekend, before driving 380 miles to Phoenix, I checked my levels. They were a bit low, so I topped everything off with coolant and everything was fine on the drive out.
On the drive home, however, stuck in traffic, the car began to overheat. I pulled over and checked the reservoir and it was mostly full of coolant, but I added a little more, let it sit for a while, and then made my way through the traffic and home.
Also, I tested the fan, and it comes on.
When sitting in traffic the idle decreases normally, the lights dim somewhat, the blowers slow a bit, the digital clock will begin to "quiver or flicker" and the car will shut off. It will start right back up. I have a new battery and have a reconditioned alternator (about 2 years ago.) I have had to the mechanic shop and they tell me it is not the alternator. Had an electronic ignition added in 2010 (obviously not factory with the original car) to the car and had that turned off a couple of weeks ago, which seemed to give it new life. Then it turned really cold again and have noticed the flickering and the feeling that the car wants to die when sitting in traffic. What could be wrong with the car? One time when the car died it set the clock back to 12:00.
View 2 RepliesI let my friend drive my 1999.5 2.0L Jetta (Automatic). He attempted a drift around a cultist, when he started the drift the car made it's usual noise. But after the sharp turn and acceleration, the car made a higher pitch noise. It was definitely noticeable. When driving back home the car performed all the same, accelerated and turned as per usual. But the noise still remains. I don't know what is causing it to make the noise, maybe the Transmission? I'm not too knowledgeable when it comes to cars so that's why I came here.
View 23 RepliesMy 2004 phaeton outside temperature reading will increase to over 100F while I'm sitting in traffic when the temp is in the 60s 70s.... Highest I've seen is 102F... I wonder how high the display will go when summer comes around. Where is the sensor located? Could engine heat affect the sensor? While driving the temp reads about 5 degrees to high.
View 8 RepliesWhen I'm sitting still in traffic or going up a hill the temp gauge will go up. But it goes up real slow. You can set and watch temp gauge and it will just jump up every minute or so. And it has 2 fans on it but they won't kick on till temp gauge gets up over the half way mark. But when temp goes up i can raise the hood and the motor does not feel hot at all. What could cause this?
View 1 RepliesI got a couple work trucks both 2010's with around 20k miles on them. Mine just cut off on me today while sitting at a traffic light. I wasn't even paying attention till the alarm started dinging at me. The other truck stalled on my employee while turning in to park. The weird thing is I have two truck doing the same thing what are the odds.
View 14 RepliesMy 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
View 4 RepliesI just picked up a Sport. I've noticed 1,2 quick stutter type thing happening intermittently at highway speed going up a hill. Dealer service probably won't be able to have it happen as it only has happened 3 times in my 400 miles.
View 9 RepliesA few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
View 6 RepliesSitting in stopped traffic for about 45 minutes and AC slowly starts blowing warmer air. Temp about 95 and very humid. Felt like AC just freezing up, but no frost on anything when I looked under hood. Hoping freon problem. About to start looking at it this morning.
View 14 RepliesMy excursion suddenly lost power after sitting in a long traffic jam. I have a scan gauge II set up and didn't see any signs of over heating however when I went to accelerate back up to highway speed my motor revved up to 3000 rpm and just lost power I ended creeping on the side of the road at about 15 mph and barely maintaining that. The motor was not willing to revv up. I reached a spot to pull over and shut it down for about 15 minutes and started back up and drove off with no noticable issues. I have 211,000 miles on this motor and I am going to change my coil packs, I think they have been there since the truck was sold new....I changed four of them to address a miss and have six left, I will also be changing my fuel filter. We are about to pull our camper across country....about 1400 miles..
View 5 RepliesI have a 1993 Cadillac STS which I just purchased with low miles and clean carfax. Local car. Everything works like a dream and drives beautiful. All of the sudden it just shuts off ()Northstar engine() and I have to place it in park and start it again. It usually just happens on slow traffic. No engine service light so I can't get the auto shop to get me an error code. What it might be?
View 16 RepliesI have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
Strange Vibrations From Engine (Possibly?) While Riding Brakes In Slow Traffic. I tried to search but didn't come up with much that was similar.
View 2 RepliesDoes the 2015 have rear cross traffic alert?
View 4 RepliesOkay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
Over the past week, my engine has stalled numerous times while sitting at a stop light. I simply turn the key and restart the engine and go on my way... until it happens again. FYI - engine is idling between 500 and 600 rpm. I don't know if it's significant or just normal, but when the engine stalls, the red "battery" icon comes on, but goes away as soon as I restart.
In the past few days, I've also noticed my windshield wipers have been very slow, regardless of what position I put the stalk in. Today, there were no engine stalling incidents. However, this morning the wipers were extremely slow when I tested them. Then, this afternoon, everything worked fine! The engine continued to run fine all day and my wipers seem to be back to normal speed!
Does this sound like typical "low left side battery" gremlins, or perhaps the right side "starter" battery? Is it just coincidence that these two symptoms showed up at the same time and are not related? By the way, I believe the left side battery was replaced by the previous owner a year or two ago.