Golf/GTI VII :: 2015 - Bouncing On Highway When Concrete Is Just Slightly Wavy
Dec 30, 2014
I just picked up a new GTI and noticed it was riding very firm and bouncing on the highway so I took it into the dealer and they forgot to remove the strut pucks. Even though the pucks are gone it's still bouncing pretty severely when on the highway especially when the concrete is just slightly wavy. I don't mind a slight firmness over cracks and bumps but the strong bouncing on certain roads is unbearable. I only rode with the pucks in for about 500 miles but had problems with it bouncing uncomfortably?
I hope that nothing is wrong with the suspension but if this is how all GTI's are then I might have to trade it in for a jetta or something.
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I have a 2004 Elantra with 130000+ miles. Lately I have noticed bumpy ride along the concrete highway. It bumps like a Yo-Yo. What Could be the issue and how expensive?
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I have a 2007 an at about 52mph the truck has a slight but irritating bounce (up an down) an after a while sickening. It maybe felt it was coming from the rear. So I had the rear tires balanced an the guy said my right rear tire had a bend to it. Well assuming that the balancing fixed the problem it did not. So I'm going to put on the spare to see if it still bounces what else should I do?
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My new Sonata Limited 2.4 has 17" wheels and Kumho tires. On certain rough concrete, or more often asphalt road surfaces, at highway speeds, this car is so noisy that one can hardly carry on a conversation. It's terribly loud. Dealer has "checked" it, and tire dealer has looked at the tires. No problem has been found. What can be done about this?
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2012 Prius Five- Had an annoying vibration coming from the trunk area at highway speeds- especially on concrete roadways. First thought was the problematic rear license plate/frame that I've read about- so I used some felt pads around the rear plate & frame but still had the annoying vibration ad highway speeds. Over the weekend I had some spare time so I started poking around in the trunk area by rapping in several areas with a heavy hand till I heard the same (or similar frequency) vibrating sound.
Eventually I was able to isolate it to somewhere under the rear deck. I removed the carpet, then plastic deck then even the spare, etc., Found it was actually coming from the sheet metal box that surrounds the connections coming from the car and relays to the hybrid battery box. Seems the metal edges of that small connections/relay enclosure were just touching the battery box metal enclosure just lightly enough to vibrate under certain conditions. But how to fix?
To make a long story short- I disconnected the 12v battery, removed the black exhaust duct over small metal cover, removed the battery cooling fan intake shroud, then two annoying orange lock rivets, then a few 10mm nuts and one 10mm bolt- and finally the metal connection/relay cover came off.
Once off- I used black electric tape to line every seam where that metal cover touched the battery box metal cover or car frame- I then lined the battery box metal cover the same way in the areas where the connection/relay cover mated on it. Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly. Upon ride to work this morning- vibration was 100% gone- fixed!
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So I have been noticing a shimmy/bouncing at highway speeds (between 60-80mph) for a couple of months. It started right after I had a local indy tire shop swap my sliver stock wheels for the chrome version of the same wheel I picked up locally.
Funny thing is I did my front brakes last Sunday and after putting the tires back on, the ride felt smoother at highway speeds. I figured perhaps the indy shop didn't torque the wheels properly (which I'm sure they didn't as they didn't ask me the torque spec and didn't look it up, and used an impact gun to tighten bolts). I torqued my front wheels to 103lb by hand after doing front brakes.
This Thursday, I did my rear brakes and torqued the rears to 103lb. On the highway the shaking/bouncing is back and dare I say more noticeable.
Could it be that I did something incorrect when installing the rear wheels? The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 with about 15k miles on them. Look to be wearing evenly.
I have an appt. on Monday to have the tires balanced at Discount Tire. I asked about their machine and he said it's a Hunter which I take to me Hunter Road Force balancing machine. Is there anything particular that I should ask or know prior to going in?
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My wife has a 2008 Dodge Charge SXT with the 3.5. The front passenger wheel is "shaking/bouncing" at highway speed, but only when turning that direction on a curve. It doesn't do this when turning left. We had the tires replaced, because that was the suggested fix because the tire was "chopped". They were at end of life anyway, past the ware bar. But it didn't work and it seems to be getting worse. One mechanic said he thought it was the wheel hub, another said tie rod. I replaced both front tie rod ends after the passenger one fell out about 18 months ago.
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I have a 2000 f150 5.4 liter engine. I traveled about a month ago and while on the highway it started "bouncing/shuttering" really bad. I pulled off and while still in drive but completely stopped it was still bouncing but when in park it stopped. I took in into the Ford dealership and they said that cylinder 5 was misfiring and it was losing pressure fast. Then it stopped acting up completely and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Well about a week ago it started bouncing again on city roads (no highway). The check engine light came on and Orielys said it was a cylinder 5 misfire. Also, under the oil cap and in the tube where you would put the oil in has a yellow thick substance on it. I know that it is water in the oil. Also, there is a black "gunk" not far from where you would put the oil in. Could these problems be connected?
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I need new tires for my Golf. Road noise has been an issue for me with this car--particularly on concrete highways. The front tires were replaced 60K miles ago with General Altmax HP. The back tires are the originals. Any recommendation for tires that will quiet my ride?
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While accelerating onto the highway we get a slight vibration at just about 50mph, minor but noticeable. Something to worry about? Also, there is a water leak in the right rear tail light.
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Just had new front tires installed today and drove home. Car felt fine driving at 60 kph. Drove tonight on the highway and felt a bit of shaking. Its not as severe but can be felt sightly. Didn't feel this (slight) shaking with my old worn tires at highway speeds. What could it be? Btw, bought the car used last year at my local dealer and I haven't done an alignment yet since then.
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Noticed the steering wheel shakes just slightly at highway speeds. Happens to me when I'm at around 65-70mph and above. It's just very slight, so I really wasn't thinking its an alignment issue at all. I didn't know if this was a bit normal for these B7s or what. I've had alignment issues in cars before and this just doesn't feel that bad, but its enough to give me pause.
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Brand new 2015 Camry SE and I think the steering wheel is slightly off centre... basically driving straight on most roads you need to hold the wheel a bit to the right... and if you hold the wheel completely straight the car will slowly veer to the left.
I checked tire pressure (fine) and I don't think its road crown (most roads are angled a bit right but this car veers left when wheel is held straight). Mostly noticed it once I started doing some highway driving.
I don't think the alignment is bad really but it seems like it might have been done at the factory without the wheel being fully straight.
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Whenever I park on an incline whether it's upward or downward the car seems to roll about an inch or so after engaging the parking brake and then taking my foot slowly off the brakes. When I engage the parking brake I have the transmission set in neutral so the weight of the car doesn't put stress on it.
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I recently had a problem with my car jerking slightly on highway, and I think I've resolved this by replacing the spark plugs. It does still do it, but maybe only one or two jerks per 100 miles. It used to be one or two jerks every 30 seconds. So I think I've found at least part of the source of the jerk. I could possibly purchase new spark plug caps (wires) and hopefully that would put that problem to rest.
Dodge Intrepid ES
3.2L V6
126,000 Miles
So my car has white smoke coming from the exhaust. On start up, on warm up, on hot idle, and on cold idle. The coolant in the reservoir is quite skanky looking and I've been meaning to flush it but haven't gotten around to it. But I've done quite a lot of research lately and also just have my own personal experience (employed as a mechanic at a small engines shop for quite some time.) and I've found the most common answer would be a head gasket problem, or even more serious, a cracked block, causing coolant in small amounts to leak into the cylinders. I figured that would be the answer I would find but I like to do some research before I go prodding at my car.
The exhaust is white, not grey, not blue, not black. A nice pure white color, and obviously comes out thicker and in larger amounts when you give it some gas. Also it smells sweet. Another clue it could be coolant.
Another thing that made me worry was when I replaced the old spark plugs, they looked like they were being run in a really lean engine. Barely any carbon tracks on them, almost clean looking. Which worries me. It could be suggesting that I COULD be burning water (coolant) in my engine. The coolant level in the reservoir does go down but at a pretty small amount.
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My S10 started downshifting at highway speeds when I slightly let up on the throttle. It only starts after driving 20 or 30 miles down the road. (gets hot?) It also hesitates slightly starting from a dead stop as well after that. I dropped the pan, cleaned it up and added new fluid. There was a fine powdery sludge on the magnet in the pan, but no metal shavings. It is still doing the same thing.
It has 95,500 miles on it. 2.2 motor. The fluid was low a couple weeks ago. I added a bottle of conditioner. Don't remember the brand name. 2 reservoirs in the bottle so it mixes as you pour it in. It started acting up 7 days ago.
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I bought a 2015 Subaru Forester. Our test ride was on a smooth road. After buying the car, I noticed how bumpy the ride is on only slightly rough roads. Also the paint has some cracks near the door edges. Have a 2015 Subaru Forester and noticed the bumpy ride.
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Took car in for normal service (69,000 miles) and had Tranny Fluid Service completed. When I took the car home I noticed some slight tranny slipping while accelerating up to highway speeds (so assuming 4th to 5th gear, maybe 5th to 6th). Took it back to the dealer and after a week it had a new transmission. Took it home and it slipped again, also only accelerating to highway speeds. Took it back and they told me they reset the computer that monitors my driving patterns. OK, not exactly sure what that means. So, now driving to work this morning it slipped (or maybe hesitated is a better word) again when accelerating from about 55 mph to 60 or so. Car has never had issues like this before, gas mileage is still in the 30 mpg range.
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I have posted several times about my 03 Ex and it's driveline vibes- mainly highway speed and when slightly on the gas... Took it to a local 4 wheel drive shop that specializes in lifts. They jacked it up and I ran the X up to highway speed with the rear in the air. It was amazing how rough it is, even at 55mph. I hardly feel it in the vehicle at that speed while driving.
Anyway, they felt the vibration but where it is coming from. They said pinion angle looked fine and since I have a retubed driveshaft and rebuilt rear, they ruled that out. The owner has an 04 with a 6 or 8" lift and 37's and seems to know about Excursions.
I then took it to the local Ford dealer and had the service manager drive it. He strongly feels it is gear mesh with the ring and pinion. I am not totally convinced as the rear is quiet, gear wise. For that matter, my slip yoke has quite a bit of torsional slop, likely as much as the backlash on the ring and pinion but the driveshaft shop said that it is acceptable.
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Got a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.
Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.
As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.
I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.
On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.
I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.
Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.
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For the past month or so I have had something strange going on. When driving between 65 to 70 on the highway, I've turned my steering wheel slightly to the right and if there is a cross wind or head wind there is a vibrating sound. And it does get loud. I don't really feel it in the steering wheel. Only when there is a wind. I haven't done anything new to the truck since winter.
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