Golf/GTI VII :: 2012 - Rear Brake Replacement At 30K
May 12, 2015
So my wife has 12 GTI with just under 30K on it. We purchased it brand new beginning of 2013. She was just in for oil change at the dealer in January. The told her she had 75% of the rear brake pads remaining. Today she heard a grinding noise and took to the dealer. They told her she has 25% remaining on the rear pads the rear rotors are completely rusted and need to be replaced. This just doesn't make sense to me.
They told her it is because of the way she drives. So in the last 4 months her driving habits suddenly changed? The front pads are completely fine. I just don't get how the rear pads and rotors needs to be replaced at 30,000 miles. Dealer tried to get it covered but VW said no. They told us to call customer service. This is ridiculous. I am certainly going to file a case with VW tomorrow. BTW they also told her the 2 front tires need to be replaced.
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I just returned from the stealership for the 30K service on my 2006 Passat. The dealer says the back brakes will need replacement soon and there is a special tool for opening the caliper due to the electric parking brake. What tool do I need to do this myself? I have done brakes many times and normally it is a 30-45 minutes job for both axles. Also, with that few miles, will I need new rotors?
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So I need to put some new brakes on the rear of the B6 but as I remember hearing there is a hydraulic that holds the brakes in place. Apparently they have to be disabled via VAGCOM. Is there any way around this?
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2003 LE Camry i want to replace Rear brakes. Is there a DIY for it. I know it is challenging...
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I have a 2013 Accent GLS and I have to replace the rear bumper cover. Any detailed instructions on how to do this?
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What size sockets do I need in order to complete a brake pad replacement for my rear brakes?
Also, what are the torque specs for each bolt I will be refastening?
And just in case a bolt breaks... what size bolts are used on the calipers?
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This is my first time working on drum breaks, all the repair manuals and videos don't make it look too bad. I did have a question about the parts required to replace the rear breaks.
Assuming these breaks are very worn. What parts would need to be replaced in a typical break job.
The pics below are what I'm planning on buying:
Shoes
Rotors
Drum
Hardware Kit
Is there anything that I'm missing?
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Any good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
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Have to replace both rear brake lines, I can't find any information about doing the job. I need to know what size the lines are and what type of flair is on the ends?
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My car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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I replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
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So looking to replace the passenger side front LED fog light assembly as the one that's currently on the car has a bad seal or something and lets water in. I have a new LED assembly but I'm lost with how exactly I'm to get the new part in. I've searched for diagrams regarding the replacement of the part and found one diagram that said the front bumper had to be completely removed from the car but I find that a bit hard to believe... (Then again its euro so maybe it's not hard to believe). Can the lower intake grill on the passenger side not just be pulled out or something? 2012 Golf R MK6....
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What to do if your timing chain tensioner fails and wipes out the valvetrain. Go to www.vwusa.com and click the contact us page. Find the link for "online chat" and open a dialog with a vw rep. Have the vin, milage, purchase date info handy and tell them what happend.
Maybe I just got lucky, but I thought my (second owner) 2012 GTI with 46000 mi was toast, the rep (Bill H) told me not to worry and set me up with a case number and the location of a dearship that will confirm the damage and replace my engine.
My experience is in direct opposition of what I have read on forums when people take their GTI's to the dealership first, then after hagling with the stealership managers for weeks on end finally end up emailing vw corporate (which takes weeks to respond) and finally having the issue resolved.
Of couse, this is only if your car has not had the warranty run out. I thought that being the second owner voided the powertrain warranty...again that was false.
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I need to replace my parking brake, it is definitely on its way out.
What I wanted to know is, do I need a cable for each side or is there only one cable?
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so while replacing the rear brake lines in my 2001 F-250. / 5.4, the flex line that drops from the frame bolts to the axle through the axle breather threaded vent line. The friggin thing crumbled on me and now I can't find a replacement for it. Where I can get it or what it's actual name / part number is so I can call the Ford dealer and hope it's not obsoleted?
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Just had 30,000 km service done and was told the rear disc brake pads are almost completely worn out. The front ones are hardly worn and I'm not a fierce type driver who jams on the brakes or one who leaves the handbrake on..
I asked the service manager how come the rears are worn yet the fronts aren't - his answer was sometimes this happens.
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Driving a 2003 GTI
My girlfriends dad and I just recently replaced my pads,rotors, and bled the brakes. He is a journeyman mechanic however he does not see a lot of cars, he mostly works on trains.
Short version is after this replacement I am able to press the peddle to the floor and not lockup or engage the ABS. Before with the old worn brakes this would be no problem to do. We tried bleeding a little more off the brakes to see if there was some air. no bubbles came out. he insists there's lots of brake power. I just find it odd that i can press the pedal to the floor board and not lock up the tires, or feel like i have any real emergency stopping power.
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I recently bought a 2012 VW Jetta. My first German car, it has been both a really fun learning experience and (more often than not) a nightmare to work on. That said, I still am enjoying the car and intend to keep it for a while.
This past weekend, I took the factory wheels off to sand and paint them black, because I thought the car would look nice with black rims (and it was a lot cheaper than buying a whole new set!) Everything went well, I put them back on, and the car drives perfectly. Except it doesn't.
Now, I've got a noise coming from the rear passenger side wheel well. I'm not sure exactly what is causing the noise, and while I fancy myself a halfway decent Saturday Mechanic; I cannot diagnose or repair this problem myself. I have little to no experience working on drum brakes. All I know is this: the lug nuts are torqued, and the dealer has taken apart the brakes and informed me that nothing is broken or out of place. This cannot be the case - SOMETHING is making that clicking noise!
More information: it sounds JUST like the clicking noise you get when you forget to tighten your lug nuts and go for a drive, the rim moving around on the wheel studs and that noise it makes- this sounds exactly the same... The "click click click click" sound increases tempo as vehicle speed increases, and in volume when you very lightly apply the brakes and turn either direction. I don't know what to do, as usual, the closer I get to the dealership's service manager, the noise fades away.
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I took my R to a local mechanic to have my rotors turned and my brake pads replaced (RedStuff). A couple of days later, I noticed a loud noise coming from my front passenger wheel well when I was driving, and the pitch changed when I hit my brakes. It appears that the anti-rattle spring was not reinstalled properly because it has fallen in between my caliper and rotor, causing damage to the rotor and my aftermarket wheels. Since I'm not much of a DIYer, I wanted to get your opinion on the situation and how I should approach things with my mechanic. How hard is it to properly install the anti-rattle spring?
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So here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
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