Golf/GTI VII :: 1st Gear Engagement Auto Rev And Clutch Judder
Sep 29, 2015
I am a new 2016 GTI 6 MT S model owner.
I have been driving manual cars for more than 10 years. In manual cars, the engine rev generally drops slightly at engagement point, but in the GTI I noticed that the engine maintains rather slightly increases the rev automatically while engaging clutch in 1st or reverse if the gas pedal is not pressed. It is also very audible as the engine sound changes (increases).
Also I have noticed significant clutch engagement judder if I take off by pushing the gas.
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Replaced original clutch on Subaru Forester at approx. 130,000 miles because of slipping. Drove car for a few days and clutch would judder once warmed-up when trying to engage 1st gear. Took car back to repair shop, they said pressure plate was defective/set too stiff and replaced that. Whole car now shudders when trying to engage in 1st gear once the car has warmed-up and particularly on (even a slight) hill. What's not working correctly? Seen some discussion on throw-out bearings, master/slave cylinders and oil on clutch. Unsure.
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I have a 2003 1.3 Yaris T Spirit VVTi.
I am told I need a new clutch. First and second gear can be stiff to select, especially in cold weather, and the pedal has to be floored to change gear. The bite point is very high, and the clutch can judder before engaging but we are so used to it this only occurs occasionally at slow speeds.
However, the clutch does not slip in any gear and as I say it doesn't cause us any real problems because we are so used to it. The car has done 107,000 miles and has the original clutch (as far as I know).
Should the clutch be replaced?
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I have experienced what I believe is clutch engagement failure or clutch slippage on three occasions over the last 2000 miles on my DSG equipped 2011 GTI. Twice from a complete stop the engine rev to 3000 rpm but the car did not move. I let off the gas then tried again and the car accelerated normally. Once, again when accelerating from a complete stop the car moved relatively slowly while the engine revved, the clutch then seemed to fully grab and the car accelerated normally. I plan to get the car into the dealer in the next couple of weeks but I fully expected that the service staff will not be able to replicate the problem since it occurs infrequently.
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So I was living in Texas for the past 4 months and noticed my clutch started to act up. It was sticking at the engagement point and sometimes I would need to pull the pedal up with my foot. Also sometimes when I was engaging the clutch, the pressure on my foot from the pedal would suddenly disappear. I had an hour commute to and from work when I was down there and frequently was in stop-and-go traffic.
Fast forward to now, I am back up in New York. It is much colder here and I don't drive nearly as much. I took it into the dealership to have it looked at. My car sat for a day before the tech could take it for a drive. I received a call saying that the problem could not be replicated and everything seemed fine. I picked my car up and it hasn't happened as frequently as before but it is still doing it. I think it has something to do with temperature.
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I have a 24v GLI with the O2M 6-speed trans. This morning while leaving for work I accidently let the clutch out while in gear and my e-brake still on. Heard a really loud bang and the engine didn't stall out (which it should have). Now I have no engagement in any gear and there is a very loud clicking that changes with RPMs. Did I blow the CV joint, or is this something much worse (blown diff, destroyed clutch, etc.)??? I'm border-line freaking out!
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In most other manual tranny cars that I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Not my accent. is it possible to adjust the clutch pedal so that engagement isn't so far away from the floor? it pretty much fully engages at the near top of the pedal.
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Today, I was parking the '05 Prius and noticed the gear shift stuck in the drive position instead of the usual "pop back" you experience when you put it in drive. The park button woud not engage. The same thing happens in reverse.
The dealer said they have had to replace the gear shift on a bunch of cars with this sticky gear shift problem.
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PO730 and P0740 codes at the same time auto transmission slips in 4th gear really bad but not all the time...
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I'll start this off with a few months ago, I went on a trip and along the way noticed that the car wouldn't get into gear. This happened for a few moments, and solved itself.
Fast forward to a few days ago:
So, my Golf MK4 AUTO 1.6L transmission doesn't want to shift into 4th, sometimes.
One and two are good, but sometimes I get quite a lag in between disengaging 2nd and getting 3rd also.
Furthermore, sometimes I get 4th 'semi' engaging, where the engine is revving too much to be fully in gear, but I get power to the wheels and accelerate (slowly).
I did a VAGCOM scan and got the old:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
I also had a CEL on my dash, which I cleared with the VAGCOM. This removed the light, but of course the error still persists.
I've been reading around, and some people have said the issue is the TCM, but some people have had similar problems and a TCM replacement has not fixed this.
(Just btw, my TCM model is 01M927733LK).
And some people have had good results with solenoid replacements. So, I was thinking of doing a ATF flush, just because it was recommend on some posts, but won't necessarily fix the problem.
Contacted a garage to do this for me (never flushed automatic tranny before) and mentioned the VAGCOM codes, and he said this is a slip code.
So, now I'm not really sure what to do to fix it. Are the solenoids interchangeable? Am I able to switch two gears' solenoids to see if it moves the issue to another gear, proving its the solenoid?
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My Mk4 GTI has a problem with the transmission searching up and down for a gear, second to third then back down to second and so on. My local dealer wants to put in a temp sensor because that's what the code says but to do so costs almost as much as dropping the transmission. He won't guarantee that will fix the issue so I am inclined to just buy a used automatic and spend the money on a complete replacement. It will probably cost me a few hundred more but seems like a better long term solution. Of course that depends on the used transmission.
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I have a 2012 2.5 with auto trans and am experiencing a problem. After coming to a stop and easing pressure from the brake pedal, if you re-apply pressure you feel a harsh engagement of the transmission, feels like you put it in neutral and then back in drive. Sometimes it will do it while stopped with no change in pedal pressure and feels like someone rear ended you.
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1999 Jetta MK4 with only 124k miles on it. Everything is fine with the car except when the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it is jerky/violent/forceful everything else is good with car except check engine light is on but I don't really care about that and I'll go check with autozone to see what the code is. I am able to feather the gas when I know its going to shift and I can make the shift pretty smooth. My question to all the experts is does this mean that this tranny is on its last leg or does it still have a lot of life left in it. My old Cabriolet did it for years and never was a problem.
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Just bought my first r 32 recently , had previously owned a 20th anniversary GTI, anyway guy i bought the car from mentioned the awd system was not working , recently was driving and clutch would not go into gear in addition to the haldex or awd not functioning . The clutch also kinda "stuck" to the floor .. Also I noticed some fluid on the undercarriage the day I brought it home . I'm pretty sure the car was beat on but there aren't many available up this way , and honestly I know I'm prob gonna spend some to get her road worthy again , Also felt like the car was operating in rwd for some reason and traction control light is on.
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Just picked up a 2002 golf 2.0 auto for $200. Get the car home start it up and it runs great but... transmission shifts all kinds of funky. Starts in first then shifts to third. If I give it some gas it shifts down to second but has nothing there, just revs. Will not go into 4th at all. Throw my little mac scanner on it some codes come up. Only one that mattered was p0277 if I remember. Do a little search and it comes up as the g68 under the tranny mount. Change that out and had not cel. Still shifting the same but no code at all. Throw my scanner on just to see and get p0730 incorrect gear ratio.
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Car: 2012 Mk6 Golf R
Mileage: 43,000 km
Software: UM stage 2 loaded
Related mods:
- diesel geek short shifter
- Emmanuel design, Sachs SRE stage 2 SMf clutch kit
- Tyrol sport deadest rigid collar kit (probably not related)
Background info:
Clutch installed at 40k km.
0-500km stop and go traffic
500-505km punched it bc a 350Z pissed me off*
506-1200km highway and not very aggressive twisters
1200-3000km hwy and city mix
First 0-500km I babied the clutch. No issue
501-505km I punched it a bit hard. Felt great. No issue
506-1200km hwy there, no issue. Closer to the 1200km mark the issue surfaced
1200-3000km was able to repeat the issue and adjusted diesel geek ss and re-bled the clutch in attempt to resolve it
Issue:
- from dead stop, 1st gear gets locked in at 2-4k rpm
- either I rev up beyond 4k, drop below 2k rpm to unlock it
- if I man handle n yank it out of 1st, gears grind
- only happens when the car is fully warmed up and fully running at optimal temperature for at least 10-15 minutes
- diesel geek ss readjustment
- re-bled the clutch (no topping off the clutch lines)
Issue was improved, however, I'm experiencing this locking issue again. Less frequent and less predictable. Attempted to replicate the issue, only happens if it's stop and go traffic-jam speed. Was unable to focus on an rpm range.
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So long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
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So I have a stage 2 endurance clutch and light weight flywheel on my car. I had not really gotten on it of late until yesterday. I was getting on the highway and really got on it. When I hit third gear it felt like my clutch was slipping. I have only had it on the car for like six months and about 10,000 miles. It could be worn out all ready? And after the incident yesterday I pushed the clutch in and held it to let it cool down a bit after it did it held fine even in higher Rpms didn't feel like any kind of slipping. Pulled very strong. This morning after having all night to cool off (and I mite just still be freaked out a bit) but it seemed to feel different, like a possible slip at 3,000 Rpms but again I mite just be freaking out about nothing. What does a master cylinder or slave cylinder going out feel like?
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Last couple morning here in Michigan we've seen temps in the low to mid 30's. The last two mornings when I shift between 1, 2 & 3 I'm hearing a clicking noise coming from the clutch when engaging the gear. After a few minutes, once it warms up, the clicking goes away.
I am @ stage 1+ W/VWR intake, but I'm not expecting clutch troubles from that.
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My GTi has little over 18k on the clock and it will be a year old on Thursday. Coming back home from work last Friday i floored it @ around 3 rpm in 6th, and i got clutch slippage.
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I have a 2010 GTI and I got the APR 93 octane chip about 6000 miles ago. The other day I pushed the gas to pass a car on the highway in 6th gear and it sounded like my clutch slipped a bit. It made me quite nervous as the car only has 10,000 miles on it. I'm hoping maybe it just got glazed over a bit.
All of my other cars had manual transmission so it's not my driving skills and I don't beat on my car either. My last 2002 GTI had 150,000 miles on it when I sold it and 140,000 of those were chipped. Never once did that clutch slip.
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