car is losing boost as soon as it goes above the 3500 range.
it will reach peak boost at WOT but begin to tamper off as it goes higher in the range and will reach as low as 5lbs towards 5-6k
i have an apr stage 2+ tune and my peak boost is usually 17-19 lbs.
check all hoses and everything checks out fine.
So pre waterfest my car was accelerating as expected. It'll pull fine until about 3250-3500rpm then it'll get a little kick until about 6k. Now, I can feel the boost at around 3500rpm but it's very mild. It only holds boost until around 4500rpm.
I don't have a boost gauge installed but I have an app that will connect to a Bluetooth OBD dongle I have. I've used it in the past and it tells me how much boost I'm making. It shows that I am peaking around 24-27 lbs of boost. But it just drops shortly after without me letting off the throttle at all.
I have a 2011 GTI, with an apr chip and apr intake stage 1. Car is brand new 4000 miles
When hitting boost in 3rd-6th gear i hear a fluttering sound between 3500rpm and 5000rpm after 5000rpm the sound either dissipates or is drowned out by the motor.
I've done a lot of research around this sound and i havent been able to find a certain answer, it could be compression surge (i wouldn't see why), a leaky DV ( also cant see why because the 2011 has the new revision D piston actuated DV), A fluttering wastegate.
Sage 1 apr chip and stage 1 apr intake...
I have been looking around for some boost information. I have come across a few threads that have boost graphs, but the images are no longer available. I have tried to get a hold of some of the posters, but no luck.
I only recently hooked up a boost gauge and have been monitoring my boost more. I had a slight feeling before I hooked it up that I was losing a little boost at higher rpms. Between 4500-5000 my boost drops from 18 to 15 and then from 5000-6000 it drops to about 10. I know it's sometimes normal for boost to drop at top end, but I'm not quite certain it's supposed to be that much.
I installed the Spulen Boost Pipe Kit hoping it may make some type of difference, but it's the same. What it might be? I have checked all my pipes as best as possible, but couldn't find anything.
I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune. Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi. Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slow and boost won't work. I'm not sure what else I should get to restore my car to perform fully.
I'm currently on the factory ko3 turbo and the previous owner had nitrous hookups and lines to the motor.
I'm already 3k into fixing it. Needed new shift cables and a fresh transmission
I'm hoping to push about 250hp maybe 300hp
The boost problem is fixed once I turn the car off and back on. I just want it to work again without having to spend an arm and leg on parts and labor. My mechanic works at Volkswagen dealership. But isn't allowed to work on my car due to dealership policies about working on vehicles older than 10 years old. The guy who tuned my car professionally at an apr shop told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that) for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start.
I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune...
Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi
Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slowe and boost won't work
The guy told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that)for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start. I am new to this.
2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
I got a 04 jetta gli that is making a loud blow off noise at around 15 psi. Up until then the the boost holds fine but then at around 15 psi it just starts whistling really loud and loses all boost. I recently replaced the DV and venthose by the camshaft, and made sure that it is tight. I also installed a 42DD 3" exhaust recently. The car has about 96k on it with stock vacuum hoses except for the aforementioned adjustments. I'm pretty sure it's not the hose and DV I replaced because I made sure that they were tight to see if that was the problem, and it did not fix it.
View 2 RepliesDon't know if I'm experiencing the dreaded limp mode or not. It seems that SOMETIMES while just digging thru the gears 1-2-3, not hard, when I get to 3000 rpms it's like I'm taking my foot off the gas. Rpm drops from 3000 to 2500. It's like I'm losing boost or something. I have no mods and obviously, no boost gauge.
View 7 RepliesMy 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
I lamented in the past a lot of vibrations when the engine was at 3500RPM (in any gear). I read on the forums and many people blamed the aftermarket "EMPI" axles that I mounted too. In fact, my OEM outer CV joints where seized inside the hub/spindle and one of the inner CV joints was clicking; the boots were all worn. This was the reason I went with aftermarket axles. Anyway, I rebuilt the OEM axles by keeping the shaft only, and getting good quality inner and outer CV joints. I finished today to swap back the OEM axles and, finally, no more vibrations!
View 10 RepliesIt feels like I have zero back pressure until I hit about 3500rpm. The car kind of struggles and chugs a bit until it hits the power band and then it takes off like everything is normal...
View 1 RepliesSo,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
View 11 RepliesSo I am new to the VW TDI, and I am hearing some noises I am not used to...
First noise, when the transmission is in neutral, clutch pedal not depressed, I hear a noise from the clutch (makes the TDI sound louder than it really is), if I put the car in gear, the noise goes away (even if I put it in neutral and keep the pedal pressed in), sounds like the pressure plate or clutch could be making that noise, is this normal or not ?
Second noise, when accelerating (especially accelerating hard) above 3500 rpm or so the engine makes a weird muted sound, I can't really describe it, maybe like bubbles of air in water would do, but muted ... it's a weird sound !
Recently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
So in the last 4 months, the GTi has lost about 1/4 of a quart of oil or less 3 times and the low oil light has popped up. Idk if I'm running her too hard too much but I can't find a leak. I'm taking off all mods and going to the dealership tomorrow but I have no faith in them, to be honest. I'm positive they are just gonna say they couldn't find an issue.
View 9 RepliesOver the past month I've had an issue with my car randomly losing power/losing throttle. When this happens the car acts as if its lost power, and I have no throttle at all. That said everything electronic on the car is still on in terms of radio, heat, seat warmers, low beams; but on the dash the battery indicator is illuminated. The way I've found to "fix"this is either to brake and pull over and put the car in park and restart it, or while moving shift into neutral and push the key forward to "start" the car again. I've also had this happen back to back, meaning that I restart the car and when I go to accelerate the throttle cuts out and the car acts in the same fashion where it dies and I have to restart it again. The times this has happened there hasn't been any sort of common factor attributed to it and honestly I'm at a loss for what could be causing the issue. The car does have an APR stage 2 tune but other than that nothing electronic really done to it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 3inch cat back exhaust, cold air intake, and a stage 1 apr tune. I just installed a front mount intercooler. When I spool my turbo in 1st gear the car loses all power at 4 grand and just bogs out after that. Rpms keep climbing but the speed doesn't move. What's going on?!
View 8 RepliesOut of the blue, months ago, the A/C quit working. I rarely used it prior so I can't say for sure if it was losing "coolness." It may have been. And other than hearing a slight hum or whine after turning the compressor off, which it has done since almost new everything was fine. Although it did, recently, before the A/C died, begin to overheat while waiting in traffic. Never did it again.
I have not done a bunch of troubleshooting other than adding some refrigerant and monitoring the fans and A/C clutch to see if they cycled, which they did not (assuming I was reading the fan process accurately). The gauge did read low, I filled it to the green zone, the compressor clutch engaged, level dropped, I added, it cycled, then dropped, all the while still blowing hot air. I quit doing that but it remained on the low side of green.
The car has 180k miles and runs great. I'm getting ready to sell her after 11 years but really need the A/C working to get anything out of it in the South.