Golf/GTI VI :: Knocking Noises Coming Over Sharp Bumps
Mar 7, 2011
I am experiencing issues with front shocks RS2 Coilovers. I have this knock occurring from both front shocks. If they're set the softest, they're the worst...knocking noises over all small sharp bumps or sharp dips in the road. If I set them to full stiff and you drive it immediately after the ride is stiffer, but smoother, almost no noise at all, only when driving over roads that throw weight from side to side quickly will create the knock, but very light. However after a while of driving it just starts to make noise again as if they're unwinding on there own. When I check their position, they're where I left them. It feels as if the shock pressure bleeds until I perform the same routine and it feels tight again for a short period.
Its starting to annoy me now, car has 6000km on it and 600 km on the coilovers.
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I've had a clinking sound at the front of my car when driving over sharp bumps like seams or cracks ever since about 6k miles. I only notice it with the windows down. I used to think that it was the coils on my Nuespeed sport springs hitting each other, but after I got coilovers and the noise didn't change I was sure that it wasn't the springs. When talking to my mechanic on the phone he suggested that I see if the problem goes away if I apply the brakes when driving over something that causes the noise, and sure enough the noise isn't there when braking.
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I would describe the noise as a low rattle/knocking when i hit bumps(or the second after). i thought it might be my spare tire knocking around in its trunk well under the carpet. I actually removed it and drove around to check, but it was not the issue. I had a mechanic look at wheels/suspension because of this noise, he told me the rear passenger side sway bar link needed to be replaced. I personally ended up doing the work and replaced the right and left rear sway bar links however the noise persists.
while the rear was jacked up i tried wobbling the wheels with my hands to check for play but found nothing in any direction. The mechanic seemed to think everything else looked ok.
I only notice it at low speeds like driving around a neighborhood. The big bumps it either isnt happening or the noise is drowned out by the general sound of hitting larger bumps. But over mildly bump sections such as a bad asphalt patch chop it can be very noticeable.
Its not very consistent, its hard to predict when ill hear it and its almost like its during when my suspension settles after hitting the bump that its heard.
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2013 4dr Stage 1 w/ dog bone tranny insert, VWR springs, 29K mi. LONG time Corrado VR6 owner - new to OBD II / turbo cars.
Car just doesn't feel as "solid" as it should. I expected it to feel really buttoned down with a quiet cabin.
I hear annoying creaking type noises when going over bumps / rougher roads (even did this with stock springs) Sounds like coming from rear interior, like window seal areas.
Not sure if this is due to body flex or something else. Anything to address this? Would any kind of stabilizer bars (front strut / rear hatch / under body chassis) work? or make it worse?
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Took my 2010 with 10,250 miles to the Dealer yesterday because there is an uncomfortable "tinny" rattle heard under the car when driven over sharp bumps and dips (rough road). Almost like a loose brake shield. At oil change I made mention of this and a missing fastener and nut clip was thought responsible. This time I had a test drive with the mechanic and we verified it was on both sides having done several passes on the same road hazard. After a period of trouble shooting in the shop, a decision was made on the front struts, but none in stock. Brought it back this morning for the replacements and was found not to be the problem.
This is one of those noises you can duplicate on the road, but not easily in the shop. Have had no accidents or run overs, and the car is in perfect condition otherwise. It is not the oil door.
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2003 passat gl; 1.8t w/all new front control arms, replaced to cure suspension noise, now metallic clatter persists, but any (even) light application of brake pedal and noise stops.. it is most apparent over sharp bumps...
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I have the 2012 Touareg with adaptive head and LED accent lights. I have observed that when the road has sharp bumps and you are going slow enough to observe your light pattern on the ground, the lights, the LEDs I believe, appear to be "Jiggling". I realize there must be a more technical term for it but I would think from the oncoming traffic the appearance would be reminiscent of the old motorcycle light heads that were never very tight and would appear to bounce or "Jiggle" up and down as they approached. The dealership says they all do it and it is because the LEDS are mounted in plastic and the plastic is vibrating.
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Problem #1: So I've noticed a clunking when I go over sharp bumps or uneven road conditions (think roots under the pavement) at low speeds, such as in a parking lot. The noise is only under the front left tire well area, and the car drives smooth and great otherwise. Is it a bad joint? The closest dealership is over an hour away, so I want to make sure I'm driving there with a real reason. The MDX has about 130K, transmission is great, and new timing belt, so I'm scared it's some sort of axle/joint problem...
Problem #2: The check emissions light came on about two days ago. I have filled up since, but it hasn't gone away. There is not a smell from the exhaust, and there is no rattling. Gas mileage hasn't changed one bit either! What could it be?? The car has been restarted quite a few times, but the light comes on each time.
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I know lots of you say these stock Rancho's suck, but I'm wondering if it's just the ride that improves? I have some clunking under the truck when I go over "sharp" bumps that normally I would say is something loose or maybe a bad ball joint...except I have it in the rear as well. Is that a symptom of these stock ranchos? I don't mind the stiff ride, it's the noise that's bothering me.
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When I'm driving over sharp bumps I hear what sounds like a small chain jingling around. I took off the hubcaps and jacked up the car to see if anything loose. I grabbed the exhaust pipe and shook it, but it didn't make any noise. I couldn't see anything that would cause it. The front right strut's rubber cover is off so could the strut make that noise?
I just read a few posts with similar problems, but one was a compression sound and another was a knock, and another was a metallic hick up. Mine is literally like a loose high pitch chain noise and change rattling in your pocket. No uniformity to the sound. But it also only happens over quick small bumps not large ones like speed bumps.
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Ok I changed the 2 front struts on my Santa Fe. And the strut mounts. Rides alot better and no shimmy in the wheel but I noticed a knocking noise when turning the wheel sharp. What I have come to find out the top of the spring it turning the whole cup or top hat it sits in. I put the cup in the right spot because there is a flat spot on the thread of the the strut.
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09 stx 2wd 4.6L- I have a 2.5'' leveling kit and 33'' bfg a/t tires. The problem is when I make sharp turns, or turn and go over small bumps. Whats happening is something seems to catching or rubbing it kind of jerks towards the opposite of where I am turning and causes the traction control to slow my truck (sucks on tight off-ramps/ u-turns). this happens at pretty much any speed although it gets worse as speed increases. At first I thought it was the steering stoppers but don't have any wear on them, tires do not rub anywhere. My dealer and a local off road shop cant figure it out...
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester and it has started to make a weird noise when I make slow and sharp turns, like when I am pulling out of a driveway or entering a parking spot. It is not exactly a knocking noise, it is similar to the one when a small piece of rock is stuck on the tire threads, but it is in the center of the car.
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I have a 2013 4 Door Golf MK6 with the following:
DG springs
225 X45 X17"
Hotchkis RSB ( set on the softest setting which is 90% stiffer over the OEM one)
Neuspeed Endlinks
About two weeks ago I started hearing some creaking noises coming from the rear of my car. I thought, I need to put some grease to the RSB bushings, but this didn't work. After a close inspection I notice that the sway bar was rubbing.
The RSB was installed about 3 1/2 months ago and didn't have any issues. What could be causing the problem? I am suspecting the endlinks are going to be culprit. the car is used as a daily driver. what endlinks would you recommend to get?
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So I just replaced my upper strut bushings and bearings and there's still noises coming from the struts or idk what it is but its coming from up front and when I back up and turn the wheel or when I am driving down my drive way there's little bumps and once i drive over them the car just makes all this noise. Pretty much what else could it be? are my struts blown? or could it be something is loose?
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I'm looking to purchase a complete shifter assembly (cables, plastic box, shift lever, ect. Not the parts that bolt to the transmission itself) so I can reverse engineer them without having any down time with my car. I want to make an aluminum box and shifter assembly to eliminate all the plastic components in the stock shifter mechanism. I'm thinking along the lines of a VWMS billet shifter mounted down low in the box so it isn't seen when a shifter boot is used. This will hide the really cool assembly, but I'm after function here.
I'm currently at 23k miles and there are creaking noises coming from my shifter assembly. The shifter mechanism has also lost the crisp feeling it once had when it was new. The dealer has offered to replace it under warranty, but I want to do it once and do it right. The OEM plastic stuff will not cut it.
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I've been noticing my GTI has been making some weird noises, especially after only have 380 miles on it. When idling with the clutch engaged, it makes a rattling noise that goes away when depressed. There's also a rather loud sound coming from the timing belt and just underneath the plastic engine cover. I'm hoping it just needs breaking in, but I'd just like some reassurance that it's nothing serious.
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Ive been hearing some noises coming from the right side of the dashboard when I turn the heat on. Then last night, smoke/steam started coming through the vents with a strong odor. Popped the hood and there is some smoke coming from behind the engine as well. Sounds like the heater core but why the smoke from the engine? Temperature gauge reads as normal and I have no lights on the dash.
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Looks like my struts and springs are getting old that they're making squeaky noises over the bumps. Had a shop checked to make sure and they suggested replacing them. I've been wanting to do air ride but not a lot of good shops in town have done that before. So far by searching, most complete kits run around $4k or so without installation. Is that about right? How complicate is it to do the installation?
My second option was to purchase coilovers and put them in myself. Cheap and easy. But again, there are 4-5 brands out there? Megan, D2, BC, K-Sport, etc? I want it mildly lowered and not too bouncy. What spring rates should I get?
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I'm absolutely clueless when it comes to cars. I bought a 99 Carolla with 130k miles from a family friend, Randy, who owns a repair shop. The car was brought in with a blown engine as its previous owner ignored its oil needs. Randy put in an engine with 90k miles and tightened the motor mounts. It made the 14 hour trek from Nashville to my new home in Houston, but now the bottom makes a rattling noise going over any bump. I'm not talking big potholes- even tiny cracks cause it to rattle. Some notes:
The exhaust sounds normal. The sound is coming from in front of me at ground level beneath the hood. Just took it for a test drive and I heard it from both sides as well as the middle. I don't feel it through the steering wheel, pedal, or seat. The only thing indicative of a problem is the noise. If I had the radio on at full blast, I wouldn't know there was an issue.
The check engine light also came on. I took the car to AutoZone and got two errors- the first, P0505, was an air control valve control circuit (probable causes per AutoZone: open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, and/or failed IAC motor) and the second, P0420, was catalyst system efficiency below threshold- bank 1 (causes: air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S (heated oxygen sensor), AF sensor error, fuel system fault, and/or faulty catalytic converter).
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It makes knocking noises from all four corners, but mainly, when I make a hard right turn and it knocks it feels like the guts is going to fall out of it. It leaks tremendous amounts of oil from one side of the car to the opposite under the engine, but on checking the oil level, it does not require much topping up. Sometimes when making a hard turn, it's like there is no power steering. After spending copious amounts of money on it, and the problems not going away, the mechanic said to get rid of it. Also, when unlocking the doors manually or by remote, the back left passenger door makes a loud electrical buzzing noise that only started happening after the mechanic fixed the warning lights that kept coming up. That door no longer opens from the outside which means it won't pass a warrant. It was suggested it might be the solenoid? After getting into the car, you can hear a buzzing coming from around the radio area, and I haven't even inserted the key yet. It's such nice looking car and when it drives right, is awesum..
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