Golf/GTI VI :: Clutch Slipped A Bit On Highway In 6th Gear
Oct 11, 2010
I have a 2010 GTI and I got the APR 93 octane chip about 6000 miles ago. The other day I pushed the gas to pass a car on the highway in 6th gear and it sounded like my clutch slipped a bit. It made me quite nervous as the car only has 10,000 miles on it. I'm hoping maybe it just got glazed over a bit.
All of my other cars had manual transmission so it's not my driving skills and I don't beat on my car either. My last 2002 GTI had 150,000 miles on it when I sold it and 140,000 of those were chipped. Never once did that clutch slip.
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As the title says.... it slipped on a first gear pull and then another time on the highway on the on ramp in high RPM in second....
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Wondering if this would cause any wear to the clutch or anything but was in gear 3 about to upshift but my foot slipped off the clutch and the car didnt jerk the rpms just went back to where they were. Curious if that would do anything
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So about 200 miles into brake in and I backed up my steep driveway, a feat previously easy with the stock clutch. Backed up with my new setup (SB OFE disc) and all I could smell was burning clutch. Aside from this I have been strictly adhering to clutch break in best practices. The clutch will be ok still in the long run, or did I potentially cause permanent damage?
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95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
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Yesterday my transmission slipped as I accelerated from a stop off the highway exit ramp. It grabbed almost immediately and no problems till I got to my destination about 2 miles down the road.......fluid was dripping from the underneath the engine......reddish/pink fluid. Engine was not over heated (according to the gauge). Pulled car off driveway and down the road a bit and transmission was really slipping when trying to accelerate quickly (no issue with slow acceleration). Checked transmission fluid and it was not covering the stick. I thought maybe I burst a transmission coolant line but upon inspection no fluid on that.
So I added 1 quart of transmission fluid this morning and started the car to hope to find the leak. No immediate leaking the transmission case, seals or lines. But I did notice that when I started the car the coolant reservoir was "bubbling". After about 5 minutes to allow the engine to warm and the coolant gauge to come to normal operating range I noticed coolant reservoir/overfill spewing out a pinkish foamy fluid and then checking the transmission fluid level it was drained again (no fluid on stick when running). One last fact....the fluid temp coming from the overflow was cold, so was the radiator fluid after I popped off the radiator cap.....but the dashboard temperature coolant gauge was at the mid point/normal operating temperature of the scale.
So my question is......where do I take the car to have it looked at......a transmission shop, or a typical full service mechanic? Is the transmission fluid co-mingling with the coolant fluid and if so how does that happen?
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For some reason when GX470 is parked, it does not want to reverse when slipped into gear. I have to apply a some pressure on the gas pedal and than it moves with a loud thud like noise, I have noticed it when the GX is parked for 24-36 hours.
We leave here in N-CAL and weather cant be an issue. Besides it always parked in the garage.
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I was driving home from Las Vegas and my avalon just randomly slipped out of gear. I pulled over and put in into park and back into drive and it started to roll backwards the fluid is full and clean.... I bought this car 6 months ago and it barely hit 90xxx miles...
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I have right around 2k miles on my '13 base model 6MT. I've noticed recently that after faster highway driving (75-80mph sustained for 10-25 min, up to 95 passing occasionally), I can smell something when I get out that reminds me an awful lot of the clutch burning up in my old 350 as I hauled a way-too-heavy trailer. Drivetrain is still very responsive, no noticeable slippage. Never shifted out of 6th when passing at speeds above. Just paranoid? Something I should look into?
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So far from reading up here is my list:
1) Water pump.
Its not leaking or making noise at this time.
2) Clutch clicking at initial travel.
Noticed this on the first couple miles.
3) Smelly A/C.
This is ongoing
4) Wind noise from doors at highway speed.
Noticed this also
5) Wastegate rattle
Don't hear any rattle, or I am not narrowing down the sound when it happens.
Anything else I should add?
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As we know, flashing dash lights are a part of owning a Volkswagen. Even moreso a modded Volkswagen. Last night I was treated to my first CEL during 3rd gear pull merging onto the highway. At 4200 RPM, the car cut timing and throttle ferociously and the CEL came on and flashed for about 10 seconds. The road was rough so I anticipated that it was the car registering a knock and Bronson said it could've been that. I pulled over, checked everything I could visually at 1:00 AM and it all seemed fine. Car accelerated and boosted well from then on, on the way home.
This morning I got in for the drive to work and noticed within 2-3 miles that the car was idling strangely. Not long after, the CEL came on. It would surge from 1,000 to 1,300 RPM randomly. I took it back home to pick up my VCDS and my laptop and scanned the following codes:
Code:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
Since then I have checked:
- Intake hoses/clamps
- Intercooler hoses/clamps
- Diverter valve hoses/clamps
- Throttle body pipe/clamps
- PCV hoses (The PCV on the valve cover was replaced by the BFI catch can. It has been on the car for over 6,000 miles with no issues, and all of the fittings are tight.)
- Boost tap hoses/clamps
I reset the codes and drove it to work and all was well, but I'm staying out of boost until I find out what the problem is. The car has stock plugs, stock coils and stock DV and only 7,800 miles.
Thread here with the full VCDS scan: [URL] ....
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Just bought my first r 32 recently , had previously owned a 20th anniversary GTI, anyway guy i bought the car from mentioned the awd system was not working , recently was driving and clutch would not go into gear in addition to the haldex or awd not functioning . The clutch also kinda "stuck" to the floor .. Also I noticed some fluid on the undercarriage the day I brought it home . I'm pretty sure the car was beat on but there aren't many available up this way , and honestly I know I'm prob gonna spend some to get her road worthy again , Also felt like the car was operating in rwd for some reason and traction control light is on.
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I notice whenever I'm on the highway traveling between 60-70mph and at part throttle, I hear a hum that I would best describe as a gear whine which sounds to be coming from the rear. I'm taking it to the dealer next week to be checked.
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Car: 2012 Mk6 Golf R
Mileage: 43,000 km
Software: UM stage 2 loaded
Related mods:
- diesel geek short shifter
- Emmanuel design, Sachs SRE stage 2 SMf clutch kit
- Tyrol sport deadest rigid collar kit (probably not related)
Background info:
Clutch installed at 40k km.
0-500km stop and go traffic
500-505km punched it bc a 350Z pissed me off*
506-1200km highway and not very aggressive twisters
1200-3000km hwy and city mix
First 0-500km I babied the clutch. No issue
501-505km I punched it a bit hard. Felt great. No issue
506-1200km hwy there, no issue. Closer to the 1200km mark the issue surfaced
1200-3000km was able to repeat the issue and adjusted diesel geek ss and re-bled the clutch in attempt to resolve it
Issue:
- from dead stop, 1st gear gets locked in at 2-4k rpm
- either I rev up beyond 4k, drop below 2k rpm to unlock it
- if I man handle n yank it out of 1st, gears grind
- only happens when the car is fully warmed up and fully running at optimal temperature for at least 10-15 minutes
- diesel geek ss readjustment
- re-bled the clutch (no topping off the clutch lines)
Issue was improved, however, I'm experiencing this locking issue again. Less frequent and less predictable. Attempted to replicate the issue, only happens if it's stop and go traffic-jam speed. Was unable to focus on an rpm range.
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So long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
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So I have a stage 2 endurance clutch and light weight flywheel on my car. I had not really gotten on it of late until yesterday. I was getting on the highway and really got on it. When I hit third gear it felt like my clutch was slipping. I have only had it on the car for like six months and about 10,000 miles. It could be worn out all ready? And after the incident yesterday I pushed the clutch in and held it to let it cool down a bit after it did it held fine even in higher Rpms didn't feel like any kind of slipping. Pulled very strong. This morning after having all night to cool off (and I mite just still be freaked out a bit) but it seemed to feel different, like a possible slip at 3,000 Rpms but again I mite just be freaking out about nothing. What does a master cylinder or slave cylinder going out feel like?
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My car was having a strange power issue after I went stage 1+. This occurred 3 separate times and always at the same moment in acceleration. I would be on the highway on ramp shifting from 5th to 6th and the car would just die, the turbo completely quit functioning. When this occurred the car had no power and would consume fuel like crazy. Each time this happened it was over 90 degrees outside. If I parked the car and let it sit for 10 minutes before re-starting it would be back to normal. Since going 2+ this has not occurred. I don't know if this was a protection mode implemented by the ecu or what.
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Last couple morning here in Michigan we've seen temps in the low to mid 30's. The last two mornings when I shift between 1, 2 & 3 I'm hearing a clicking noise coming from the clutch when engaging the gear. After a few minutes, once it warms up, the clicking goes away.
I am @ stage 1+ W/VWR intake, but I'm not expecting clutch troubles from that.
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My GTi has little over 18k on the clock and it will be a year old on Thursday. Coming back home from work last Friday i floored it @ around 3 rpm in 6th, and i got clutch slippage.
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So my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
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So I got my stage one flash yesterday and I noticed 5th gear slipping already. I don't plan on getting a k04 upgrade, maybe stage 2 down the road. so I am looking into the drop in clutches, preferably this one [URL] .... I am just trying to find out some reviews from people who are currently running drop in clutches and the issues that they have come across.
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