Golf/GTI VI :: While Switching Gears And Accelerating, The Engine Revs All Over The Map
Jun 24, 2011
I haven't come on this site since I sold my Corrado a while back, but I am having issues with the wife's City Golf. It is a manual transmission and when switching gears and accelerating, the engine revs all over the map on the tach and is only partially engaged in gear, and then after bouncing around it settles down drives normal. But if you stomp on the gas again, the engine accelerates all over place again and it doesn't translate to power on the road. Is this a transmission problem or a fuel problem?
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
View 3 Replies
Got a 02 Jetta 1.8T 5spd auto tiptronic with 100k miles. Having issues with shifting. Trying to determine if its electronic or mechanical. Had a short in solenoid 10 N283 which melted the TCM. Put in a used N283 to see if the trans is still ok mechanically. Plan is if its ok to put new fluids and solenoid pack. What do the experts think does is need a full rebuild or will new electronics do the job?
After putting the used N283 solenoid the trans works but not correct. The problem is in the shifting only. Feels like its out of time. When you start moving from a stopped position from 1st to 2nd the car takes off good but when changing gears it reves and feels like its slipping then it hits hard into 2nd. Then 2nd-3rd is a fast shift and not hard. 3rd-4th slips and revs a little then changes gears 4th-5th is fine. all down shifts are fine. Does not mater if the car is hot or cold its the same.
If I disconnect the MAF 1st to 2nd shifts fine with no problems. 2nd-3rd little rough but not bad. Problem with disconnected MAF when going in Drive at 30-40mph all of a sudden it jumped into 1st gear and felt like I was slamming on the brakes.
With the MAF connected and I shift manually in tiptronic mode each gear runs real good with no slipping at all. But same problem happens when switching gears. I can drive it smooth if i accelerate to 3000 rpm and then left off the gas a little and it shifts fine.. Same with the other gears.
I got a used TCM to rule that out and the problem is close to the same. It tries to shift at lower rpm but still does about the same problem. I did recently had a MAF go out. Put in a new bosch and no change. Did my VCDS scan and only codes I get is "17840 secondary air". I can get operational data on some solenoids but not sure what parameters to look for.
View 2 Replies
Recently bought a 2015 Golf Tsi. i have done around 4000 miles. there has been a ticking and a "coin rubbing together" sound when accelerating until about 2200 revs. dealer could not find the solution... the car has been very jolty, and at very low idle speeds, very rough and stuttery. The video shows the ticking. Could it be an exhaust/fuel injector problem? [URL] .....
View 3 Replies
2001 F150 5.4 v8 ... In the past few months my truck has been a bit strange, but in the past few weeks it's gotten to the point I'm nervous to drive it. Usually when shifting around 30-35, the engine revs up and stops accelerating and I have to take my foot off the pedal to make it return to normal. It doesn't do this after I do that, but the past time I tried to drive I couldn't get above 35 and the rpm was in the upper 2000s going at a constant 35. When I stop for any reason such as making a turn, when it shifts it lurches forward and I hear a loud clunk.
Naturally, I've checked all the fluids and fuses and they're all fine. The mechanic I regularly visit insists that nothing is wrong with it.
View 2 Replies
I have an APR Stage 1 flash done about 3 months ago and I absolutely love it and never had any issues.
I always leave my car in program two which is the 93 octane. I was driving home yesterday and when I was in the higher gears and accelerating in like 3rd or 4th and got the rpms up to 3500 to 4000 the car would stutter pretty hard. At one point it stuttered like 3 times in a row and then the check engine light blinked about 10 times and went away. When I got home I put the car back into stock mode and tried the same thing, but it ran smoothly with no issues.
Experienced this with the APR stage one flash. I'm thinking maybe it could be bad gas or the program didn't get set correctly, but not sure. I am going to put it back into the 93 program today and see if it still does the same thing.
View 4 Replies
So I recently leased a 2015 GS 350 AWD. The car is great. Love all the features. However, for some reason I feel that the transmission is a bit I rough when it switches gears. I feel the kick. I also noticed a hang up or delay when slowing down. I am coming off a infiniti q50 and the transmission on that car was nice and smooth. Maybe I'm just too sensitive.
View 14 Replies
1995 Nissan Altima with 230,000 miles stalls while driving within the first 5 minutes and could immediately restart and was fine for the next 20+ miles. Well now she stalls when I try to gas her or when she switches gears (when going from 40 mph to 45 mph) and she needs a little time to rest before she will start up again. My dad seems to think she got a little low on oil at some point and the computer is freaking out. He has already tried replacing the fuel filter. This was my first car.
View 8 Replies
I have a Sonata 08. I have recently installed a 740W amp and HID lights. During the Winter everything worked fine with just the amp. I then decided to install HIDs. I have a relay and a capacitor on them. but I have a weird power problem. Sometimes when I have my AC running the engine shuts off when I turn on my lights. It feels like a surge. I have to restart the car. Also while the AC runs the car feels a little shaky like it is switching gears while parked. What's going on?
View 25 Replies
So my 1998 Toyota Corrolla jumps and jerks after I switch gears. It only does it sometimes and I have seemed to narrow down that it does it mostly when the air conditioning is on and between 3rd and 4th gear if I don't have the RPMs just right. There is no smell nor any mettalic grinding. I'm thinking it's something to do with the transmission.
View 6 Replies
This is the second time I notice a problem with my 2014 elantra base model. The car only has 13000kms and today the car acted with a weird behaviour. This car has a manual 6 speed transmission.
Out of the blue the car jerked like it had a problem with the transmission switching gears which is weird as this is a manual.
The second time this happened the wife was driving and she said that she was in is third gear and she pressed the clutch and the brake at the same time and she felt a small jerking feel in the clutch like it didn't engage.
The problem is that I cant reproduce the problem. The car is still under warranty and I don't want to go to the dealer with a problem that I cant exhibit.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1996 bmw z3 and theres bunch of problems with itone the transmission makes makes a loud noise when switching gears usually first, also you press the gas and it takes couple seconds for the car to accelerate.also when foot is on the brake the car will surge forward or accelerate i was told by bmw that the value cover gasket needs to be replaced cause its leaking oil the air mass meter needs to be replaced i was told by one mechanic this could be why the transmission is having problems or it could be the transmission needs to be replaced ~ any truth to this that the air mass meter could be causing problems with the tranny?? also the os sensor needs to be replaced the check engine light is on....so my question is that could all of these problems be causing transmission issues. There are other problems as well including power issues with the battery, stalling mostly because i havent been driving it also the ac doesnt work but heat does.
View 7 Replies
I had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
View 12 Replies
I started to drive with my windows open and just noticed a noise every time I switch gears, and specially when I'm going up on hills or streets, the noise is just for 1 second maybe 1.5 and when I'm going up on long and elevated streets is longer specially on 3rd gear, I just did the oil change on my car a couple weeks a go (quacker state 5W20 , 3 1/2 quarts) and I was hoping to fix the "noise" with that, but is not......the "noise" is like a "click click click click" like valves hitting .......I can't say for how long the engine was doing that "noise", cause I just noticed after driving with my windows open
My car have 125,000 kilometers and the timing belt was change at 108,000 kilos, no A/C on the car
Take a look on 2:00 minutes, right after the guy release the pedal, the "click click click" noise : Sunet ciudat motor Hyundai Accent 1,4 DOHC - YouTube
View 15 Replies
So my brother "learned" how to drive manual and asked if he could take my car for a spin. As we were driving he went from fifth gear (which he had prematurely switched to) to first. This occurred at about 35 or 40 mph. The car kind of jerked and a mechanical clicking could be heard. The clutch feels fine, and I can switch to all gears it seems, but when I let out the clutch, the gears won't engage, and the car can only be revved. This comes with a clanking noise.
View 10 Replies
I have a 96 saturn sl2. It was running ok, but recently it started to idle rough and it revs up when i change gears and then when i release the clutch it drops down and remains about 1200 rpm. Pretty much while I press on the brakes to stop, and press the clutch to get on neutral,the rpm shoots up and slowly goes back down.
Also when I start the car it feels like its revving, but my foot is on the brake and the car is on neutral.Also no matter how much I've driven it, I can go into first and 2nd gear w/out having to press the accelerator and it will start to move. the rpm will remain @ about 1000 to 1200. The check engine light is not on and the car seems to be using up more gas.
I'm considering changing the plugs and wires, gas filter to see if it s. I noticed oil leaking a little around the valve cover, so I may change that too.
View 3 Replies
My 2006 Audi TT 3.2 is making a noise that sounds like a chicken. It rises with revs too.
View 7 Replies
For a while my car has been revving while I am at a stop. After stopping the engine revs up to around 2000 rpm, then drops and feels like it is stalling. I brought it to a mechanic an he cleaned the throttle body, but that did nothing. I have been reading around and it sounds like it may be a vacuum leak. Does this sound right? If so what is the best way to find the leak?
View 7 Replies
I have a 2005 GTI 1.8T with 203K miles, stock except for a MagnaFlow exhaust. My problem arose about a month ago. When I accelerate aggressively and shift from 4th gear to fifth at about 4K RPMs the engine will jump up to 5K RPMs. Happens while shifting from any gear when accelerating hard.
When I push down on the clutch and take my foot off the gas, I get a jump in RPMs. It's kind of like the boost in the turbo is not getting released. I replaced the stock diverter valve with a Forge DV with the splitter. Had no effect on my problem, but now I have that cool sound when I get off the gas.
Could this be the waste gate on the turbo not opening and releasing the boost when I get off the gas? I'm not very familiar with the intricacies of the Turbo functions and the diverter valve.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2007 Honda Accord EX (4-cylinder) manual. When upshifting, after pressing the clutch and my foot is OFF the gas, the engine stays at 2000 rpm for a few seconds before falling back; often it even INCREASES speed with my foot OFF the gas. This happens only when upshifting/accelerating and even when the car is warmed up. Is it a bad sensor, computer or throttle control?
View 1 Replies
Looking for some hint regarding V6 AUE ? Regardless if engine is warm or cold, sometimes happens to me that during driving, while slowing down and pressing on clutch pedal, revs just drop down to 0 and engine shuts down (vehicle still moving). This usually happens while changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on low speeds in city, or while slowing down to full stop in 2nd gear and pressing clutch pedal.
While this happens, I quickly switch off the ignition and start the engine again, which is tricky and potentially dangerous, since vehicle is still moving but my power steering and brakes are not functioning because of stopped engine.
Some relevant info...I have K&N cone air filter intake and ECU is remapped by BTS Racing (German tuning house).
Car is running and pulling normally. In all other regimes of driving, there are no issues or whatsoever.
View 2 Replies
