Golf/GTI VI :: When Driving Hard Car Makes Horrible Shudder And Doesn't Accelerate
Jan 4, 2012
I bought a used 2010 GTI with 37k on it. I am loving the ride, more than I even anticipated. It has the DSG, and I enjoy the multitude of ways I can choose to drive this vehicle.
I do have one issue of concern that I would like some feed back on. Occasionally, when driving hard, the car makes a horrible shudder and doesn't accelerate. It's almost as if the vehicle misses a shift and is governing itself quickly and harshly. I haven't had enough concentration to check RPM's when it does it.
It feels horrible, scares me and makes me wonder what I'm doing, what I need to get checked, or if this is something others have experienced.
Pic for good measure.
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I got this car off of a friend of mine who drove it drunk until the noise from the back wheel was too loud to handle. about 30 miles. he changed the "wheel" put on the spare and drove it for about another month.
during that time, the shifting began to get a little "iffy". he then brought it in to get the brakes done, and as soon as it came off of the lift . it wouldn't go into gear. instead it just makes a horrible noise from the area of the "output shaft" or where i would assume the prop shaft " flange" would be.
that being said. Every once in a while you can get it to go into gear. just by continually putting it from park to drive. and when it goes into gear the noise stops and it drives "fine" but only for about 30 seconds. and then it pops back "out of gear" and makes the noise again.
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While driving over bumps my front end makes horrible rattling sounds. The car also bounces somewhat wildly when i push down while it's parked. I figure its time to replace the suspension as it's got 125k miles on it. My question is exactly what parts do i need to buy? I am going to do both the front and back. I see names of parts thrown around all over. bushings, struts, springs, bearings etc... so what parts do i need to buy?
1997 pontiac sunfire 2.4L coupe
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So here I am with my 1996 Dodge grand caravan that I purchased new in 1995 for a whopping 30k. Yeah hind site is 20/20 skip forward to mile 102k transmission fails completely. Had to have it towed in to shop, rebuilt tranny put in... skip ahead another 4 years to mile 173k and transmission fails again. Again on a tow truck to the shop and ANOTHER tranny rebuild. So now I am at mile 182k and transmission is making a horrible shudder and I have moved across the country away from original shop that did last trans repair (who says they only warranty if I come back to them) and I am possibly looking at another repair or replacement. What is the deal with these vans?
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All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
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Shortly after 40K service at the dealership, where DSG oil and Haldex oil were changed. My wife who is currently daily driving my R32, and was on a road trip at the time, feels something like she a shudder in the drivetrain and car stalled. She pulled over and restarted car only to hear the metallic grinding noise while trying to move fwd.
Car towed to different out of town VW dealer, who says the "Front Haldex/Transfer case" failed internally, replacing under extended warranty with sealed unit shipping from Germany.
Story smells to me, and I wouldn't be surprised if local dealership drained the oil out of something and did not refill, as this seems like a very rare failure.
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I have a 2.0. Custom gt28 turbo project. Been up and running for awhile now. Took it on a 4 hr trip home and drove it back.
All of a sudden after the holidays it started to overheat and I had no heat. It will not overheat when idling. I replaced the thermostat recently. Lower hose gets warm when it opens. I replaced the green top sensor. I have done a wire tuck etc and I am running a closed coolant system. I believe I have gotten the air out of the system.
It will idle all day at 190. But as soon as I drive and accelerate hard or go over 50 mph it overheats and will not cool off unless I pull over and turn the car off. It will steam as if it's losing coolant somewhere but I think it's at the cap (too much pressure?).
I am thinking water pump but I am not sure. I got the car with 124k miles I'm at 127000. I was told timing was done at 90 could the pump be failing already? Also when it overheats I get a cel for misfire is that normal?
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So after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
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2007 Rabbit shakes quite hard when i accelerate mainly on any type of incline and only between 35-60 mph. When i take it to the shop they cant find a problem.
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Every time i make a turn or accelerate decently hard, i hear a pop, which generally sounds like a tree branch snapping...this isn't a quiet noise either, also i can feel it in the steering wheel sometimes as well.
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My Jetta wagon with 131K on it has a ping when I accelerate hard. I know it's not bad gas, but probably a carbon buildup. I've done a few seafoams that had some effect, but not much. I'm gonna do the water spray/steam next. Which components are prone to carbon buildup in these gassers that would cause ping?
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I just had my 15000 check-up for Sonata 2011 a week ago, everything went fine. The issue I am currently having is that I notice that when I drive on the freeway, after cruising for a distance and then stepping on accelerator to speed up, there is occasionally a knocking or shudder that occurs initially and then goes away. This seems to be reproducible if I accelerate, then let the car cruise, then accelerate again. But it does not happen every single time. I haven't noticed it too much on city streets.
My question is what may be causing it. If I were to take it back to the dealer, how much will I be charged for the inspection and if they were to find nothing wrong. Additionally, should I take it to the same dealer (which is about 20mi away), or a closer one?
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I recently purchased a 2013 forester and noticed a slight shudder in the car once I start to accelerate but it only lasts until I hit 20mph or so then disappears. The salesman tried telling me it was a normal subaru characteristic and being new to AWD and subaru I was a suckered and listened to him but after owning the car for a week it's more noticeable than when I first drove the car off the lot. I'm not sure if its the tires out of balance or my half shafts or possibly drive shafts are screwy.
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I’m hearing a horrible sound when I drive my 2002 Trailblazer. It has 250,000 miles and we have babied it since the first day we bought it. I’m hoping it will last another year. The sound I’m hearing happens intermittently. I took it by a mechanic, and of course it didn’t make the sound. It sounds like you are driving over rumple strips found on the shoulder of expressways. I then feel a “drag” and it goes away. What’s going on?
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I have a 2005 Chevy Aveo - It makes a creaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the car - What might be causing the sound?
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How hard is it to replace the gas pedal on a 2012 Tiguan SE? My factory gas pedal makes a creaking sound when I accelerate/decelerate. Took it to VW and they are not going to do anything about it.
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99 F150, 4x4, 5.4L, 4R70W trans.
I am experiencing a shudder at speeds between 45 and 50 when trying to accelerate mildly - it usually occurs after slowing down from a higher speed.
It is similar to the bucking that occurs when you do not downshift a manual trans.
I am guessing that it is the torque convert clutch staying locked or the tranny staying in OD too long. The shudder will go away if I give the truck enough throttle to downshift or simply push the overdrive off button - which forces it to downshift to drive.
What is the probable cause?
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On Friday I opened the liftgate using the button by the driver side and it was normal. I pressed the same button to close it and I heard a crunch type sound and went back to check if the lock closed on something but it was all clear. I tried opening and closing again using the driver side button and the key fob and it makes the beep beep sound and it sounds like something mechanical is going on back there but the door doesn't move. The button in the glove box has not been touched and I checked the fuse compartment in the hood of the car and it appears to be intact.
Now the door won't open or close unless I manually open it and close it. After the beep beep the door sounds like its attempting to open but it just stays closed. And when I manually open the door and try to push the button on the door itself, or by the key fob or by the driver side button, it also just makes the beep beep sound and sounds like its mechanically struggling to do something and just stays open.
On Saturday I went up to the snow. It was freezing cold and higher altitude and as I was unpacking the back I tried to close the liftgate manually and it wouldnt even close. It closed a few inches and then it seems like the pressurized hinges got stuck. I eventually got it to shut but now I'm not sure if the problem is those hinges or is it something electronic or is the lock of that door just messed up somehow.
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I have recently noticed that when I accelerate my Toyota Prius 2010 it makes rattle noise and vibrates the whole car. The weird "bang" "bang" noise comes from the passenger side near the engine and when the noise comes my whole car shakes like crazy!
I went to my local car mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it accept the EGR valve which I have now replaced. However, the problem still continues. When I shut down my car and then restart it its fine for some time and then the problem repeats!
It sounds like this .....
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In my case, from a stop, when I accelerate only in a turn left or right I get a shudder and shake from my rear end and it seems to be worse when the truck or air temp is colder.
well I went with the most basic thing first, popped the diff cover off, drained all the fluid, wiped out as much as I could get out of the collection area in the bottom. put a new gasket on and a little rtv, replaced cover. pulled the plug and cleaned off the shavings from the magnet and put new oil in it (I used Valvoline 75-90 with the friction modifier already in it, said limited slip right on the bottle)
test drove it around the block about a hundred times making left and right turns and the shudder and shake seemed to constantly decrease until it was perfectly smooth and noiseless!!! so that seemed to be an easy fix however I will report back to see what happens when I take it out cold in the morning.
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Car: 2013 golf r.
Mods: stage 2, spm downpipe, stock catback, stock intake, dxd stage 2 clutch.
All of a sudden I am getting 17mpg in the city and 22-24 on the highway. Checked fuel trims and they are within 5%. I checked just the 032.
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