Golf/GTI VI :: When Accelerate Into 2nd Vehicle Cut Out For Few Seconds
Feb 19, 2012
I was on my trek home today back from mikes and I went over a bump going through a toll booth, probably going 15mph. When I went to accelerate in 2nd it randomly started to cut out and did that for a few seconds. After that noticed it sounded like a clamp on my downpipe is a little loose. And when I give it gas it sounds as if I have an intake, just not as loud. So I pulled over at the rest stop and it sounded like the clamp came a little loose. What could cause that intake like sound? I'm going home tomorrow to go over the downpipe and check to see of anythings loose.
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Transmission Issue I am having with my Mk6 GTI DSG. When the car comes to a complete stop and you need to accelerate quickly to get on to incoming traffic, for example, the car takes a couple of seconds to engage. This behavior is becoming very annoying! I've been looking around about this issue. Some say that they have had a problem with the DSG Valve Body (Mechatronics Unit) and others say it might be the DSG Break Sensor. I am no expert but I would presume the Sensor Would be cheaper than the Valve Body. I would like to try and replace the sensor first and then see if I need to replace the Valve Body.
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'04 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L ~150k: P0011 and P0021
Friend's vehicle. OBD-II codes indicate Intake Valve Timing Control Bank1 and Bank2. Vehicle drives OK most of the time, but then has lapses of lost power where you step on the gas and the vehicle doesn't accelerate accordingly. RPMs rise, but tranny doesn't seem to shift at the right time. Overdrive button OFF doesn't seem to have any affect. Codes have been erased and returned the next day.
Is this Camshaft-related, as in Camshaft Position sensor? I had this issue with my '97 Taurus, but in that case it threw the code explicitly for the CMP sensor.
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As the title says, I have a 2014 Passat TDI that was bought brand new back in September. I now have 6,300 miles on it.
Anyways, started it up last night, and started backing down my driveway that has a bit of an incline. Basically, I just have to ride the brake into the street, no acceleration needed.
As soon as the car got into the street, the engine just stopped. Not stuttering or anything, just like I had turned the key off, but all electrical systems still on. Put it in park, foot on brake, and it would not even turn over, just a dead key.
So, turned the key off, removed key, opened door, and re-attempted to start. Engine started at this point.
Needless to say, I'm a little unnerved at a brand new $30K vehicle doing this at only 6K miles. Dealership can't get it in until next Thursday.
Also, I noticed that my fuel pump will randomly continue to run after shutting the vehicle off for about 5 seconds. Fuel pump is extremely loud and after shutting off the vehicle the pump sounds like this (make a fuel pump noise outloud and read) - "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee wee wee weeeeeeeeeee" and then shuts off. I've owned a slew of vehicles (5 other diesel trucks included) and not a one of them has done this.
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I bought a used 89' Ford e150. Automatic transmission, 194k mi. I fixed it up a bit and it is very much drivable. I just took it up to northern az and then back down. I had to have it towed recently and now my transmission is acting up. When I want to move it i put it into gear, either reverse or drive, now while accelerating slowly the vehicle doesn't move for several seconds until the transmission catches and it then starts to move. It does this now while driving and having to stop for lights and signs. It has a delay until the transmission catches. I wonder if the vehicle is dragged up on to a flatbed tow truck this can damage my transmission or driveshaft And cause this. What can I do to fix it
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I have notice maybe a dozen times in the last few weeks that my 2013 5.0 Screw downshifts at odd times. It usually occurs while coasting around 35-40 mph (in 4th gear and downshifts to 2nd gear) or around 50 mph (in 5th gear and downshifts to 3rd gear). Obviously when this occurs, the rpms jump and when I get into the gas, the truck takes a few seconds to accelerate because it first must shift into the next higher gear. What is causing this?
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I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 gas engine. I have been having a problem that the dealership says there is nothing they can do and have never heard about.
After the truck sits all night I get in and drive it for 10-15 min. It gets warm and I get out turning it off. When I come back about 15-45 min later I start it up and go to leave. As I pull out and start to accelerate in first gear the truck goes to an idle for about 2-3 seconds. I push the gas pedal and get no response. After a couple of seconds it picks up wherever you have the gas pedal. If you have the pedal to the floor it jumps you forward. This is not putting on any lights and the computer is not throwing any codes. According to the dealership the computer is telling them there is nothing wrong.
This has happened 12 times in the past 6 months. It has happened since I bought the truck. I have just started documenting it as of 6 months ago. It is not something I can make it do on command. After it happens once it doesn't seem to do it again for a week or two. I have 31000 miles on the truck. The dealership has had it for 4 days now and can't seem to get it to happen for them.
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Wondering if there is a way to lock the car while you step away (warm car up, go into gas station, etc.).
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I've got a transmission question on my 2010 2.5 with the 5 speed manual.
First off, let's set the scene. I pull into a spot, pull up the ebrake and usually put the transmission in 1st or just leave it in second. Then I come back to my car several hours later, after it has cooled off, and I'd like to back out of the spot.
Now sometimes, after the car is cool, it doesn't want to go from 1st into reverse. There is some resistance and when I push slightly, I hear a quick clunk/grinding noise.
However, reverse engages just fine when the car is warm, no hesitation at all. I'm not sure what to think of it. One theory is that when the car sits the clutch loses hydraulic pressure and does not fully disengage once starting the car. Another is inadequate lubrication on the syncros when the tranny is cold.
I'm being very OCD about this, I'm use to driving early 90's Saabs with close to 200k so this wasn't expected with a new car. Perhaps I should double clutch. Shift to neutral, let out clutch and then push in and try reverse. Or just leave it in reverse when I exit. It's happened about 6-7 times in my first 2k miles.
I'm sure if I mentioned it to the dealer they wouldn't be able to replicate it and say I'm a PITA. And yes, the clutch it all the way to the floor and I do know how to drive stick.
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I took note of this over the weekend. When you use Launch Control in tiptronic and you let the vehicle shift itself, it shifts at 6500-6700 rpms. But if you do Launch Control in Sport mode in first and second gear it shifts at 7100 rpms.
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Just today I started hearing a whining noise from the rear that came and went. I wouldn't be worried but it was so loud that the radio could not drowned it out anymore. The noise when away when I gave the car some throttle so I am thinking its the rear diff. It was pouring down rain and I wonder if there was some part of that that could have had an affect.
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Does your Golf R Rev past 5K when at a standstill in Neutral? I just finished installing the New South performance Gauge. I routed the boost line hose through the firewall. I used the supplied T fitting and replaced the stock one. I hooked everything up but the power for the boost gauge, just testing and checking everything before I proceed.
I put back on the battery without replacing the battery clamp at the bottom. But I connect and tighten the terminals. I am testing it now to see if all is functioning as it should. I start up the car, and I the vac sucks down to -10 PSI as I expect it.
Then I give it a rev to see if it will build boost. Almost immediately I notice a problem. Seems that the engine wont rev past 4-5K.
So I think, okay, well I probably didn't tighten it down properly, and I have a boost leak. So I pull off the engine cover, and put back on the stock hose. clamp it down, put back on the engine cover, and start the engine again.. The same thing... wont rev past 4-5
I look on the dash and two things pop up. one, the check tire light, and two the tires slipping light is solid. (I thought that VW didn't have active TPS sensors in the these cars anymore, but instead are using wheel rotation to calculate air pressure loss, if this is the case, then why would the check tires light just turn on when it wasn't moved. Could the fact that I disconnected the battery cause an issue? with this?)
I am still thinking boost leak. So I get some soapy water and spray around the only hose that I took off on all the joints, I put back the cover and connect the MAF again. then I start the engine, I figure a few revs will build enough boost to show any leaks in that area with bubbles. But no bubbles...
So now I am wondering if VW put a safety that prevents the engine from revving past 5k when in neutral. I would rather not move the car, until I know for sure that there is nothing wrong.
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I bought Golf 6 (in Germany) 3 months back. Yesterday i was traveling on Autobahn (German Motorway), and i felt that even though with accelerator fully pressed, I could not accelerate car more than 140-150 kmh. Only when there was a slope in road, then it could go 160 kmh. I have also traveled on Autobahn before and now i remember that after i used to reach 180-190 kmh, it was hard to go up till 200 kmh. Anyhow, I didn't want to reach 200 kmh, so i didnt bother anyway. But yesterday, it felt like there was really some problem. I fully pressed the accelerator for one whole minute, still the maximum speed it reached was 150 kmh.
I have following Golf 6 model, Year 2009
Engine is 1.4 TSI (122 PS or 90 kW)
Mileage is slightly above 90,000 km
Brake oil recently changed
I am sure with this engine power, it should not be a problem to go over 200 kmh easily.
After my journey way finished, i checked the tires. One of the front tire seemed to have less air. Also when i was buying this car, a mechanic told me that tires should be changed maximum after next 10,000 km. So far i have covered around 4000 km with this car.
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2002 Jetta 2.0L...
The Haynes Manual tells you to lift the car up and un-mount the engine mount on the drivers side of the transaxil to get access to the VSS underneath the vehicle, but you can do it from the top of the engine!
1. Take out your Air filter box for easier access
2. My VSS was covered by a metallic heat pouch with snaps. (not mentioned in Haynes Manual)
3. I got Needle nose pliers to wedge in the small area to unscrew the bottom half of the VSS. It is a small area to get your hand in, but with the needle pliers was actually pretty easy.
4. Then get something small enough to release the clip for the top plug. I used my screwdriver.
5. Screw in your new VSS and plug the top cable back, then put your air filter back in place.
If you look at the pictures I took, you can see the VSS and the silver pouch I mentioned. I had a lot of trouble finding the location of the VSS with no real good pictures or explanations online. Note these pictures were taken from the drivers side, which the empty space is where the air filter was and on the right you can see the battery.
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1 Fault Found:
00323 - Vehicle Inclination Sensor (G384)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 143
Mileage: 133853 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 17:27:31
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The following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....
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My car will start but wont accelerate and when I disconnect the gas pedal it red lines i replaced the pedal but still same issue throttle body was replaced too.
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While braking, the car is revving up to about 1500 rpm and causing the vehicle to shudder and buck as if it wants to take off with no throttle input. The car is an automatic and this is the information relayed to me via my sister.
The car is a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic wagon.
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Just noticed this morning that when I move slowly there is a noise consistent with the cars movement in the rear right side of the car. What could be causing this back there? Almost sound like if the car was moving while the brake was engaged.
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So I bought this car about 2 years ago and the last couple weeks it's had trouble starting and will sometimes stall out when your about to accelerate (from a stop sign) the mechanic I go to replaced the a couple relays under the drivers side dash, however I it hasn't made it better it actually made it worse as now it won't start at all the last 2 days. It rolls over and tries to start just doesn't. Its my only car and I already missed a week of work for it ( I commute ). I believe the relays where the ECM is what he said number 249 I believe.
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I'm having with the first startup in the morning. The car turns over fine, but when I accelerate there is a noticeable hesitation. This was only occurring for the first 20 seconds, when I accelerate out of my driveway. Now, it has gotten progressively worse. Still not stalling or anything like that, but it has become more pronounced. I have an APR stage 1+ with a Carbonio intake. Others mention they were experiencing a similar situation. I have tried idling before shutting the car off as well as letting the car sit for 30 seconds after I start her up. Im wondering if I disconnect the battery and allow the ECU to reset might work.
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