Golf/GTI VI :: Turn On Car Without Using Brake?
Sep 1, 2011
I have a dsg. Now, like any other automatic trany, the car will NOT let you turn it on if it is not in park. So it is impossible to cause havic by starting your car in drive or reverse. So I know what I am about to sudgest wont present a huge safety risk.
Now my Jeep did not require a foot on the break to turn it on because of that same feature. Why did VW require a foot on the break to start a dsg car I wonder. I can only assume it is because they just did it the same for manuals and dsg.
So is there a way to turn it off. I'd really like my wife to be able to get in the passenger seat and start the car without having to reach down and hit the break. Is it something as simple as vagcom?
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I was down at H20i this past weekend and had my window cracked and a truck splashed water into my car all over my dash. Then all my lights started flickering. So I let it air out for about 2hrs and cleaned it all up and the problem went away expect the parking brake light flickered for a bit then just stayed on and kept binging at me and says to release the parking brake. So when I got home I let it air out all night and let my windows down and put my car in the sun all day today. Parking brake light is still on.
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Random question, when you are stopped and pull your e-brake do your headlights turn off? I feel like they did in my 20th but I can't recall. If they do, mine isn't working,my e-brake light also does not come on when pulled.
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Experienced problems with their right taillight, both brake and turn signal light stopped working. This occurs intermittently. I have replaced my rear license plate lights with error free leds .
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I know that the relay will make the turn signals flash fast when a bulb is out or there is a broken circuit, but I am not sure about how the brake light switch is causing this condition. I need to go and check all connections and bulbs, but I see nothing obvious at this point. When the brake pedal is NOT depressed, I get the normal interval of the turn signal. As soon as I touch the brake pedal, it begins to cycle very fast. Remove foot from pedal, and it goes back to normal.
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I just purchased my first VW about a month ago. (Golf tsi white auto). I love the way the car drives/handles. But I was surprised because at just under a 1000 miles the engine light went on. Took it to VW service to check it out. They had to keep it for a few days to do tests with the main VW center. I got the car back without much explanation other than they put in an O2 sensor.
No engine light now for a couple weeks. They also noticed that my wheels are missing 4 lug nut covers (not a big deal). For some reason I am just starting to notice the green brake light on when I first turn on the ignition prior to setting in reverse which disappears upon reverse or drive. I assume this is normal... Question: should I be concerned about this engine light O2 sensor issue?
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Every time I speed up or slow down my ABS, TC and parking brake lights turn on and my car beeps at me. I'm assuming that I have a wheel speed sensor going out. But when I check the codes there is nothing and the check engine light never turns on, so how do you tell which one to replace? Or is my problem something different? I drive a 1999.5 vr6 Jetta.
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Here is the problem. When I reversed the car out of the driveway i noticed it would not reverse freely. It felt as though something was blocking the car (as though the handbrake was still on).. When i turn left and right going slowly it feels like the car is jerking and the brake pads are sticking to the rotors.. Its the same when i reverse but I only feel it when im going slowly and the sound gets louder when turning left or right...
I checked all my break pads and rotors.. Im thinking it could be something with the haldex system... Hope not.. My haldex fluid was changed at 80k and im at 88k now..
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Every morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
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I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
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I just got a new switch from the dealer, only rear fog control (don't have OEM LED's yet), and I want to turn to the right one position, but the HID's come on, and no city lights. What am I missing?
I have a VCDS... [URL] .....
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Why the paddles were on the steering wheel or, more specifically, why they'd move along with turning the steering wheel. It sometimes makes it hard to downshift going into a turn or upshifting coming out of out a turn, especially if you don't use the paddles a lot.
well, today, I got to drive one of these and the paddles are in a fixed position. it's MUCH easier to shift knowing where those paddles are at all times when driving faster than you're supposed to. of course I was doing a little spirited driving. downside to that car (only a little) is that it's LOUD. you like the sound of an R?
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I would like to start off by saying I am new to this forum. I bought a 2005 Jetta GLI a couple of months ago and from the first day I noticed that occasionally when I would lock it with the alarm, the right turn signal would stay on. It was not much of a problem as I would just press the lock on the remote again a couple of times to turn it off. Lately it has become more frequent and annoying. I have to wait up to an hour so I can finally turn it off through the remote. I was thinking the relay probably.
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Just thought I'd ask, I was at the dealer last week and while there asked them to take a look at my brakes because they were making a slight screeching sound but only when first applied when speed was slow.
They said it all looked good but that the sound I was hearing was from grooves that had been etched into the driver's side front rotor. I find it hard to believe that my rotor would have grooves in it after only 21k miles, considering I don't track it or drive it aggressively that would have caused that.
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so all of a sudden when I turn the key it seems to have an extremely long crank to turn over, almost like im holding it down to long, i can turn it quick and let it go and it will catch, hold it longer than normal and let it go and it will still catch...took it to the dealer and had them scan the car but there are no codes/faults coming up......its been doing it for a week now and today it won't start at all, it just keeps on cranking but won't turn over but yet I still have codes or faults....battery is good cuz I had it tested as well.
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Today the parking brake light didn't turn off when I released the parking brake. Other than the light staying on, nothing else unusual occurred. I did not notice any indication that the brakes were dragging. The brake fluid level was near maximum.
After reading earlier Priuschat posts on this subject, I found the cause which apparently is explained in technical service bulletin TSB BR002-07 (Parking Brake Light Won't Go Out | PriusChat)
Here's what happened to me. For some reason, the entire switch body loosened from the firewall and moved away far enough away from the lever arm such that it couldn't contact the switch and close it when the pedal was released. I think it happened because I pressed the pedal too quickly and with too much force somehow. The switch is at the top of the pedal assembly and it's not too difficult to reach
So, I pushed the switch back against the lever arm and presto, the brake light turned off as it's supposed to. I tried the parking brake several times and it is fixed for now. Now I need to determine how to tighten the switch so it won't move again.
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Before putting the kid in the car seat I like to turn on the a/c (in my previous car I would open the passenger side front door and turn the key). According to the manual, pushing the Start button twice will activate all the electrical. But no cold air is coming out in my Prius, just fan. Not till I depress the brake.
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My car think that the e-brake is on, When it's fully down and the cables are not tough with no brake rub. Is the a easy fix for this? I have a 2002 GTI.
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So tonight i discovered that when I press the brake pedal, none of my brake lights turn on. When my headlights are on, the rear light bulbs are on, but no brake lights come on when i press the pedal, and high rear light is completely off (so i know that its not the bulbs). I am going to check the fuses tomorrow, what maybe be causing this?
its still under warranty, so i can always just take the thing to Hyundai if needs be. But i hate dealing with Hyundai because they have the WORST customer service i have ever had to deal with. They have nothing but a buncha mechanic school drop outs working there, so if its an easy fix- rather do it myself.
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