Golf/GTI VI :: Turbo Pressure Hissing On Hills / Under Load
Sep 23, 2010
I've been noticing over the past few weeks that in the 1,5-3k RPM range, usually more under load (e.g. going up a hill, in traffic) that the turbo sounds like its venting boost more/earlier. It's normal acceleration too, not WOT!
Now, I might not have recognized normally, but my girlfriend's MKIV 1,8t just exhibited the same sound (more noticeable), and it turned out to be the hose to the "pancake pipe"/intercooler came loose. It's kind of the same "hissing" that you would hear if a DV/hooter valve is bad.
I know what the normal "pssst" when taking the foot off the gas should sound like. And that happens at highway speeds and normal acceleration.
So, before I bring it in - is something like this normal on the MKVI 2,0? Is it supposed to be venting to atmosphere during that higher-load acceleration, like going up a hill? Once we got her 1,8t fixed, it doesn't make a sound other than normal turbo pressure release at expected times.
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There's this 1.8t gti I'm buying this week from a family member and we've been trying to solve an issue that we ran into. When accelerating the car there is a hissing noise, safe to say that it is air. Then when accelerating a little harder and you feel the turbo pulling you everything seems fine. But a second or so after , the turbo dies off and so does the hissing noise. Then I can let go of the gas and repeat the process and it happens again.
My issue is that I cant figure it out since I Need to be driving to hear the hissing and the turbo cut off. I looked around the threads but nothing really seems to match my issue. No codes either. On top of that I've never owned a 1.8t and don't know much about its turbo.
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My car is Stage 2+ (mods are in signature). I noticed today a hissing noise coming from the rear of the car when my music was turned off. The sound is very similar to turbo spool but I'm 100% positive it is coming from the rear of the car not the bay. The noise does not show up until I hit 3rd gear and from then up it only makes noise when I'm accelerating. Under any load the noise stays the same. I can accelerate slow or accelerate a little harder and the hissing noise remains constant. The only two things that I can think of are the flapper valve on the SPM exhaust and the rear diff. However, I don't see why the flapper valve on SPM's exhaust would be affected by a certain gear.
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I have a 2001 chevy silverado 3500 6L gasoline engine.
I have been getting a P0307 random multiple misfire #7 on and off for a few months now, occasionally the P0300. Check engine light comes on when I am going up hills, often under heavy load and sometimes when the truck is cold in the morning and the truck starts to run rough until the code clears, which it does pretty quickly usually. I have replaced coil, crank sensor, cam sensor, fuel injectors. If I unplug the battery overnight the code will be cleared and the truck will be running just fine the next day.
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The beast slowed to a crawl on the interstate saturday morning for my son's soccer games... wouldn't hold speed up hills and engine had definite shudder at all speeds... fortunately, the dealer is in the city he was playing in adn the service dept is open on saturday mornings, so I could drop it off... they were exceptional about getting a loaner (new jetta tdi wagon)... they called today to report that one of the turbos was ruined... VW says they have to replace both to complete repair... tracked down parts in germany and will take about a week to arrive, then a day or so to repair. Had problems with the v10's turbos? I'm at about 12K miles... this is my second v10 and it's kinda spooky to have this kind of problem...
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I have a 2005 F250 with 186K miles. I do minor work on my vehicles but have little experience working on my diesel. I was accelerating when I heard a pop and a hiss similar to disconnecting an air hose from an air compressor. Total loss of turbo power. No turbo reading on the turbo gauge on dash. No loss of oil. No smoke. Oil and coolant look fine. Took off turbo and everything appeared to operate like it should (according to YouTube videos). Inspected lines and rubber boots.
Rubber has some cracks but not certain if they are holes. How small/large of a hole would cause total loss? Was originally scared to take it to a shop knowing they could name their price. Not opposed to taking it somewhere now knowing the turbo works but obviously would rather save the money. Any tips on troubleshooting? I'm not opposed to proactively replacing parts/sensors as the truck has given me 186k and I plan to keep it as long as possible.
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I have done some searching on this, seen a video on YouTube but haven't read anything that is firm on what it is. We pulled our 5er for the first time last weekend and the chatter was pretty pronounced in the Arbuckles here in OK. I was running around 65 mph when I hit the largest hill and as I was climbing my speed naturally dropped, boost was around 17 - 18 psi when the chatter started.
Is it something to be really concerned about? Is there anything to be done to prevent it? I'm pretty much still stock, only deletes have been airbox to 6637, and I deleted the heater by turbo for the boost gauge. Other than that everything on truck is still stock.
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Just bought a 1999 7.3 f250 w/71000 miles and took it to a diesel guy and under load he said that the whistling was normal..is this correct?
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I have a 2002 EX 7.3 and have never towed anything with it since purchased a year ago. This weekend I towed a side by side on a single axle trailer about 400 miles and could not maintain 70 mph with the small load up a mild hill. Also I could here the turbo surging while climbing hills. I have a AFE cold air intake and that is it. Truck had a aftermarket muffler on it when I bought it. New to the diesels but I thought it should tow that Trailer a little easier. I have no boost gauge or anything. Truck runs great other then this issue. Does not burn oil, get hot or anything out of the ordinary.
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1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
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I have an isspro gauge and did the blue spring about 5 years ago. Since then my fuel pressure is in the 65psi range.
Last week it dropped to 50-55 normal driving and I figured the HFCM was on it's way out (195,000 miles). Replaced the HFCM and the pressure was a bit higher, but not back to it's usual range. Then pulling the boat home from the lake a couple days ago, I saw it at 45psi. On a couple hills it went as low as 40 psi, so I was getting gripped...coasting downhill it only went back up to 50 psi and no higher. Got 'er home and currently not driving it.
In garage with Key On Engine Off, during injector buzz, I can hear a hissing/air noise at the upper filter bowl. Also, the bowl drains empty once the pump cuts off and the sound of air stops too.
I am hoping it's a regulator issue, but I don't know if they are known to wear out or go bad, or if something else in the upper filter housing went bad. So I ordered a new upper fuel filter housing which also has the oil filter tower attached and I'm assuming that these new units would come with the blue spring upgrade already done.
I can check for codes tomorrow when I bring my computer home from work, so I haven't checked for codes yet. I pick up the new filter housing tomorrow and will periodically check back here during the day tomorrow.
Also, while I'm at it: the new HFCM doesn't have the heater. Can I just leave the old connector from the harness un-connected to anything?
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Weird thing happened today. Was out running errands, and upon pulling out into traffic I felt the truck lag a little. I figured it was the typical trans hiccup we all experience from time to time. As I continue driving, I notice I don't have any turbo boost.
I'm cruising around 55-60 and when I slowly give it gas......No boost. I stomp it and the turbo gauge slowly climbs to about 12 psi. At this point I waiting for the truck to throw a warning message and none came.
As I'm reaching my destination, the speed limit is 30 so I'm just putting along and any acceleration I did, the boost needle wouldn't move. I arrive at the store, and when I got back in 5 minutes later and drove off, My boost was back. Truck operated normal for the 25 minute trip home. I thought a similar thread was started but I couldn't find it.
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Daughters car is throwing this code of 17705 VW (1297) saying it is a "Pressure Drop Between Turbo And Throttle Valve" Car runs rough until about 2500 RPM. Replaced the pressure switch by the intercooler.
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When I drive up and down hills I am noticing a lot of noise from my doors now... I have a 2 door Gold TDI... it almost sounds like they are moving or something...
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Engine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
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Got a 2006 6.0 won't build turbo pressure had to previous codes a p0098 and a p0405 I replaced the egr valve and the mafs codes went away but still no boost
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It's been a few days, I heard sound come from the engine bay like is sucking air. Finally I was able find out where the noise coming from. it's tube by the back of intake ram ripped. What is that tube do?
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My car has been making a hissing sound when I turn it off for the past few weeks, I checked the hoses around the intake manifold and they all look to be attached fine.
I took a video and discovered a flex in the rear of my manifold..is this normal? What would be the common issue?
Look at the rear of the barcode label
[URL] ....
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I have 2010 Golf VI (2-doors) for just over 2 months now. There is an air hissing sound that comes from the rear edge of the door, from the point approximately at the door handle level. At speed over 70 mph the noise begins to compete with the radio. It seems the weather strips here do a piss-poor job insulating the sound.
Now, my question is - is it a design flaw, common to all 2-doors Golfs VI, or just bad weather strips (or the warped door, maybe ) on my car?
(And yes, B-pillars also started to creak at 2K miles, but that already been discussed in another tread...)
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I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
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2002 Jetta 2.0 4-speed auto - 151,xxx miles.
Symptom: when driving, occasionally there is what I can only describe as a fairly loud (but not overwhelming - radio easily drowns it out) hissing+buzzing noise. It's a bit like listening to a small plastic gear grind at a very high speed with a bit of a hissing as a backdrop. It only happens occasionally, and I haven't identified any glaring rhyme or reason to when it happens.
What I can say is I've observed it around shifts on fairly strong acceleration, I've observed it climbing long hills, and I've observed it when cruising ~60mph on the freeway. It SEEMS like it is sensitive to the gas pedal - when I hear it, if I depress the pedal more and accelerate I tend to move beyond it, but if I let the pedal off and decelerate (thinking of the 60 mph freeway case here) I can bring the sound back. And if I continue to decelerate we move past the noise.
So, I can't really tell if it is RPMs, or speed, or engine load, or...
A little about my history with the car: I bought it only 2,000 miles ago, so I can't say much about what is "normal" or has been going on for how long.
A little about the transmission - I know they have a very bad rep. I had the trans fluid changed with the correct type right after purchase. It generally shifts ok. There are occasional delays going from reverse into D, and sometimes shifts on acceleration are less elegant than you'd hope, but it seems to generally function as a 4-speed transmission ought to.
This noise is something failing, and given that seems to relate in some way to speeds/loads/possibly shifts I hope this isn't a sign the transmission is going to suddenly give out.
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