Golf/GTI VI :: Trunk Unlock Doesn't Work On Fob
Apr 22, 2011
Took my mom's new Jetta to the store today and went to unlock the trunk with the fob and it would work. Ended up unlocking the whole car and doing it that way. Tried it again at home and still nothing. The car is brand new and this was the first time using that feature. I've unlocked the trunk on my MKIV using the fob before and no problems. If its something simple, we don't really want to take it to the dealer because people aren't exactly careful.
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When I went to unlock my trunk hatch last night the remote did not work. I then attempted to unlock the doors....still no joy. I attempted to lock the doors....nothing. I then manually opened the door, fearing my battery was dead (after reading the numerous battery threads) and the put the key in the ignition and it started right up? I then took the key out and locked the door using the reote. I unlocked the door and opened the back hatch with the remote. The only thing I could think was my step mother had unlocked her Dodge Durango that was parked next to mine...and maybe this confused my poor touareg!?
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On my passat the door lock and unlock buttons only work for the trunk and my key fob will arm and disarm the factory system as well as pop the trunk. I looked at all fuses and relays but everything is checking out....
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I am facing a discouraging situation here w/ my Phaeton: the trunk does not work, the mechanic called it quits and VW Dealership wants $32k and 3-6months in order to replace the car's electrical harness.
So here are some details regarding the problem:
1. It started by not opening the trunk when using the door switch. only the remote key.
2. Then, it wouldn't lock the trunk (it would open all the way and close)
3. After a few more days, it wouldn't open/close the trunk or lock it. (it would work once in a while, and sometimes the trunk would open/close just half way)
4. As or right now, the trunk opens and closes most of the time, but it doesn't lock.
I replaced the trunk hatch(lock), the hydraulic pump that opens and closes it, new battery and fuses. The mechanic worked on it on several occasions doing all the replacements and calibration, computer reset and all that.
I'm guessing it might be an electrical problem, a loose contact or interrupted wire given the nature of the problem (intermittent operation). But I don't know where to start looking...
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My '11 Limited has a trunk light that isn't working. I figured it was a bad bulb so replaced it (the old bulb's filament wasn't broken tho). Nope, still didn't work. So I took out the entire little bulb holder to check for bad connections, corrosion, etc. .....the connections are fine. Next I got my volt/ohm meter and checked for DC voltage at the plug coming into the unit.....I got 12.83 volts. So I hooked a jumper directly from the plug to a bulb's contacts and still no light.
What am I missing here ? How can I read voltage at the meter and not have the juice to light a tiny bulb?
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I have a 2013 Accent SE and am having trouble with the trunk release -- it doesn't work. It looks like the part in the trunk may have come loose or something.
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My key FOB only electronically unlocks/locks the doors it wont unlock the trunk and i can't actually use the key part to unlock the car or start the car. Is there a way to fix this besides getting a new key from a dealer since that is very expensive.
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I've been having problems with my unlock on my drivers side recently, it locks on the drivers side but does not unlock, it also locks AND unlocks on the passenger side. It just does not unlock on the drivers side, this has gone off and on sometimes it works, most of the time though it does not at all.
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Dropped my car off at Costco for a few hours (New Tires) and when I picked it up, the "unlock" key on my key fob failed to work. The Lock and trunk unlock keys work but the typical unlock (for the doors) doesn't work at all.
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My car got broken into 2002 VR6 4 motion.
Windows no longer roll down.
Trunk doesn't open.
Interior lights don't turn on.
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My latch wont open at all! When i first bought the car the trunk would open but Im not sure what had happened to it. The key doesn't work at all but every time I press the button on my key too open it or from the button on the floor it makes the noise that it unlocked but its still shut??!!?! Maybe I thought it was the fuse but I had changed fuse 15 still nothing any body experienced this before seems too be a common problem. Should I just go through the front and take the panels off for the hatch and diagnose whats wrong with it?
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AC on a R32 TURBO with fmic is working and cold. blowing around 55* in the shop, idling outside for a long time. everything works great.
drive it about 20 minutes or so.... get hot and doesn't work anymore. pressures are good, fans both work, car doesn't heat up past where it should be.
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My AUX doesn't seem to work (had the IPOD plugged into the M-M cable and the other end plugged into the AUX in the glovebox). When I hit CD nothing happens, when I hold it down, I get CD-MIX. When I hit SAT multiple times it cycles through SAT1, SAT2, SAT3, but never shows AUX. I don't see anything regarding AUX in the manual either.... I have recoded my instrument panel to UK among a couple other vagcom mods. Can I fix this with the VAGCOM? Can I upgrade the firmware via a CD?
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I just noticed the trunk (inside) light was out. So I replaced it and it still doesn't work. I put a 'test light' on the pig tail and one side lights up so I guess there is power there. Once the' light holder' and lamp is in there it still doesn't work. Also when I put the 'test lamp' on one side of the metal holder the 'test light' lights up.
When I put it on the other side it makes the bulb almost glow like half voltage. What it could be? What is that resistor there for ?
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Owner of a 2012 GTI here. So for some reason that I have yet to re create, my passenger map light doesnt work sometimes. It seems to work sometimes but only when I do a full close and re-open of the car. When my doors open, they both should light up, but one doesn't. Even if I press the button.
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I just picked up my new GTI a couple weeks ago and today is the first time using the wipers. The passenger side wiper doesn't work at all. I took a look at it and the wiper is different from the driver side. The wiper itself is cheap plastic with holes every inch. The connector to the wiper arm is purple. Could this be a "temporary" wiper that was installed during shipment and the dealer forgot to switch out?
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I was 4 hours into a 6 hour trip (on the way home) and my air stopped working! when i press the AC button, it lights up on settings 1,2, and 3 but NOTHING blows from the vents (whether the AC button is pressed or not, nothing comes out!) however... when I turn it to "4," air blows full blast but the AC light turns off and only blows warm air.
thinking I need to check my compressor!
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Yesterday I unlocked my car, drove to work and when I got out, the locking button flashes red on my FOB but it wont lock the doors. The unlock, hatch open and panic all work.
I tried to use my spare fobs, and same deal, all but the unlock works. The power locks work if i press the button inside the car. if i lock the car door manually using the key, it will work, but the dome lights when set to open door lit will not turn off when i lock it.
This is really weird, how I can fix/reset this so I can have the locking function back? Should I disconnect the battery and discharge the system?
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I just replaced my evap box along with most everything connected to it (had some bad servos and replaced other stuff for good measure). AC works great now, but the heater still doesn't work. I've had this car 4 years and the heater has never worked. When I took the box apart, the doors were naked (no foam). Heater core looked ok, but thought it would be stupid not to replace it while I was there.
So, I was hoping this may cure my heater issue, but was really only looking to get the AC going. So, the car had been running for 30-45 minutes and while the heater was on, I went to check the heater core hoses, the pass side hose was hot, the driver's side wasn't. Driver's side goes to axillary pump and bottom of coolant reservoir. Not too long ago, I replaced the mechanical pump and t-stat along with other stuff (crack pipe, etc.). Thought I'd get everything while I had the system drained. Didn't work then, either.
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I recently changed my battery and now my auxiliary doesn't work. I have read that it's simply changing a code with program. Vagcom-(VCDS)
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So it started when the auto up DID work, and when it closed, it automatically came back down. In order to close the window, I had to use the switch in the non-auto mode. Now, the auto up and down don't work.
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