Golf/GTI VI :: Thickness Of OEM Brake Pad
Jul 4, 2012
I just had my 20,000 mile service and my records showed 7/32nds on my tires and 12mm front and 9mm rear remaining on the brake pads. The information on the tires is pretty useful, since I can forecast when I'll need new ones. If 3/32nds is when the tires need replacing then at my current rate I'll need new tires in a few thousand miles (2 months at my current pace). Does that sound reasonable?
But what about brake pads? What is the depth in mm of stock pads on a new car?
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Getting ready to perform the clean and adjust rear brakes maintenance. I took a digital caliper and measured my rear drum brake thickness. The thinnest measurement I got was 3.19 mm.
I looked up the specifications and rear shoes brand-new are 4 mm. Minimum thickness allowed is 1mm.
I have 95K on my 2008. Since my brake shoes are showing close to brand-new measurements does this mean my rear drums are out of adjustment or is this normal?
XT1080 ?
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I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
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I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
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Just thought I'd ask, I was at the dealer last week and while there asked them to take a look at my brakes because they were making a slight screeching sound but only when first applied when speed was slow.
They said it all looked good but that the sound I was hearing was from grooves that had been etched into the driver's side front rotor. I find it hard to believe that my rotor would have grooves in it after only 21k miles, considering I don't track it or drive it aggressively that would have caused that.
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I have a dsg. Now, like any other automatic trany, the car will NOT let you turn it on if it is not in park. So it is impossible to cause havic by starting your car in drive or reverse. So I know what I am about to sudgest wont present a huge safety risk.
Now my Jeep did not require a foot on the break to turn it on because of that same feature. Why did VW require a foot on the break to start a dsg car I wonder. I can only assume it is because they just did it the same for manuals and dsg.
So is there a way to turn it off. I'd really like my wife to be able to get in the passenger seat and start the car without having to reach down and hit the break. Is it something as simple as vagcom?
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Okay let me start by saying my car is APR Stage 1. The other day I was driving with my cruise control on and held in the accelerate button to speed up. After holding in the button for a couple seconds the check engine light and battery light flashed back and forth as if I changed some setting with the tune. Ever since that happened, if I turn the TCS off, the emergency brake light comes out and the error message 'check brake pads' is displayed on the MFI. Also, the weird part is that it's not just the light. The actual emergency brake is slightly on without pulling the handle. I can feel it when I accelerate. It's harder to get the car going. Once I turn the car off and leave it off for a few hours it goes back to normal. Why this is happening?
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Driving home a friend behind me told me i didnt have brake lights, so i checked and all the bulbs were fine, then i found this.. all connectors are corroded and the second one from right to left even had the back plastic melted.. i know mkIV have reputation of having some type of electrical issues .
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So, it snowed pretty good this morning and there was about 3-4 inches of snow on the ground. I pulled out of the driveway as usual (in reverse), I get to the end and I'm turning and I noticed a vibration like something was rubbing against the wheels, I thought maybe something to do with the snow and wheels lost traction or something. Then I continue driving and when I step on the brake moderately hard (normal braking), I get this vibration like something is stuck in the wheel well and the brake pedal vibrates. If I very gently press it, it doesn't happen. So i pulled over and check the wheel wells and rotors and nothing seems out of whack. Is this the ABS? The pedal shakes quite a bit.
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got my new brake set up installed about 3 days ago. Adams double slot rotors, ebc redstuff pads. I put about 250 miles on the new set up after bedding in the setup. Im now getting a squeak from the fronts when i hit the brakes normally. Is this something that will work its way out or is there an issue?
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Whenever I try to brake boost my GTI the throttle seems to cut out. is this some kind of safety feature where brakes will dominate throttle when both are depressed?
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I have a 2013 golf r with 12k miles and I remember the next day after racing it my brake petal started vibrating every time I step on it.
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I'm at 30K miles and notice my front pads are nearing their end. Before someone says, "use search" I already did and didn't find anything. I know our front brakes are shared with the TTS so I figured I would start a thread for a central place regarding people's experiences. I'm quite impressed with the stock pads as I tracked the car and never got any fade all day. The squeal on the street is very occasional so I'm thinking VW put a more aggressive pad on the R in the first place. That being said, what have others found if they replaced their pads with something aftermarket? The car is my daily driver.
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Yesterday while doing a test run on my car, I had the "low brake pad" warning light come on in my car. I pulled the front wheels off to have a look and the pads looked fine. I followed the sensor cable to see if there was a short/open in it and I found on the vehicle-side of the wire harness that one of the wires came loose and detached from the harness. (that isn't a phenomenal description, but I hope you at least understand) Needless to say, I think I need to replace the wire harness. Is there a part number for JUST the plug, or am I looking at a whole assembly? With the searching I did, the only info I found was to short the circuit by cutting and splicing, but I would much rather fix it the right way.
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Tonight while driving along at about 30-35mph, smooth road, contant speed, straight, etc. I heard a continuous ding, saw a red light come on, and saw the MFD light up "release parking brake."
I checked and the brake was released as I thought.
I pulled over, set and released the brake a few times, shut the car off and restarted it.
The BRAKE light remains on the whole time though and I can not get it to turn off.
That isn't the bad part though, once you are under way the chime continuously dings until you stop again.
The brake is not set and is not dragging, I coasted in neutral and there was no noticeable deceleration. Also once I got home which was about a 45minute drive (a lot of fun with the chime sounding the whole time) I put my hand by the rear wheels and neither of them had much heat coming from them.
It obviously is an electrical glitch of some sort. Where is the parking brake sensor? is it inside the cabin or outside under the rear end somewhere? is there a fuse I can yank to get this to stop until I can bring it in to the dreaded dealership?
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I noticed it a few days ago. little droplets all along the bottom edge of the third brake light. wanted to see if it was common or normal before i start dealing with the dealership. and...as always...
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Wanting to lamin-x it and the compound curves may be easier to do with it removed. Can't find anything about removal of these.
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I was driving around today and had to hit the brakes really hard for the first time. ABS kicked in and during the ABS 'action' the brake pedal rapidly went to the floor. With each 'pump' the ABS made it felt like the pedal sunk slightly.
This was on dry pavement, a little gravelly / dirty and the car stopped rapidly, but just as I stopped the pedal was VERY close to the floor, and with just a touch more pressure it did in fact hit bottom.
Sounds to me like the ABS pump needs to be bled, is that right? Can I do that myself with a VAGCOM? I hate having the dealer do anything, even if it is their job. How to SAFELY confirm if cars does / does not do this as well?
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So, according to my wife, there has been an indicator that the brake fluid is low, a couple of times, over the past several months.
Now, I know pretty much nothing about brake fluid, since it is usually simply changed at specified intervals. My mechanic might have not filled it up to level at the last service - there is no indication of leaks, especially since the warning is rather sporadic.
My wife went and got a bottle of "Prestone DOT 3 High Temperature Synthetic Brake Fluid." Will that do? Any precautions?
And yes, this is for my 2010 MT Golf TDI.
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A friend of mine recently had a VWR intake installed in his R along with HPA dogbone mount. After the installation he noticed a lot of vibration in his brake pedal. He then had the dogbone mount removed and the stock put back in thinking that the mount was causing the problem. After doing that he still had the vibrations in his brake pedal. He then brought the vehicle back to the dealership who did the install for him. They couldn't find what was causing the problem. He later found out that his VWR intake was resting directly on top of the brake reservoir. Noticed vibrations in the brake pedal or notice that it is resting on top of brake reservoir? Can his intake be missing a bracket or installed improperly?
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How I can access the 3rd brake light in the hatch spoiler?
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