Golf/GTI VI :: Thermometer Stopped Dinging At 39 Degrees
Jan 18, 2012
This morning the outside temperature reading on my dash in my '12 Golf hit 39 degrees but I didn't hear it ding because I had my radio on and I was paying attention to oncoming traffic while at a stop sign. Then this afternoon I was in motion, with the radio off, and the outside temperature reading hit 39 degrees and it didn't ding - so the first time obviously wasn't due to not paying attention to the dinging. It just . . . stopped dinging! I hope this isn't a major repair, I'm glad it's still under warranty.
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I have a 02 gti 1.8t and my a/c stopped blowing cold out of nowhere. I added r134 and it didn't make a difference. Changed the switch near the firewall in the engine bay and it still did nothing. Compressor clutch kicks on when a/c button is pressed. Could it be I have a leak?car has 147k on it.
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Just got my golf R 4 door/Nav. When driving straight on the highway (regardless of road crown)... my wheel was about 4 degrees off to the left. No problem alignment wise, but the nice flat bottom wheel is cockeyed.
Car has only 330 miles on it. Took it back to the dealership, they put it on the alignment rack - actually had me sit in the car ensuring the wheel was straight as the tech adjusted the Tie Rods below.
This made it better - I instantly noticed it was better when I took a short test ride with the tech, just as they were closing. However, on the highway home I noticed its still about 2 degrees to the left. Really frustrating as now I have to take it back to the dealer a second time.
The tech actually showed me the alignment printout which was close to-but not totally perfect. Said the only way to make it perfect is to adjust the sub-frame? Really? on a new vehicle.
I do have plans to mod the car's suspension with H&R Coilovers - but will not touch anything until I get this wheel thing square and I am 100% satisfied.
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How many degrees should cool the air conditioning? My Golf 4 has about 14 years and doesn't seem to cool as much as before. Measuring with the probe of a multimeter, the temperature of the air coming through the air vents drops 10 C below ambient temperature. For example at 28 C ambient temperature I can get 18 C through the air vents, but doesn't seem that low. After the air mixes inside you don't really notice a big drop.
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So I've noticed that the R sometimes makes a heavy clunk when turning 90 degrees at any speed. I probably heard it once every couple of weeks, but I never investigated. I finally asked a shop to take a look at it, and it turns out the dealer never removed the shipping spacers.
Apparently these are placed on the car to minimize the stress of shipping via sea and road. I imagine I'll get a little more transfer out of my suspension, making potholes less jarring. Is that a fair assumption?
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On my way to work this morning guy pulled a left turn from a side street while I was in the rightmost lane. He pulled wide and forced me off the road. In dogging him, I hit the curb, went up on both wheels. Did not catch his plate (I go to work at 5AM, it was very dark and I was distracted because my car would not drive straight). I noticed I had to turn my wheel 35 degrees to the left to keep the car going straight.
All said, they are at 2k already on the estimate to replace most of my front right suspension and wheel. Probably going to replace the back one too. They have not even taken the thing apart yet. The only good news is my deductible is only 500 bucks and there was no cosmetic damage.
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I got up this morning to a relatively cold 16 degrees. I started my Passat 2.0T to let it warm up about 10 minutes before I left. I got in the car, and started to drive and noticed in the upper mfi display a blinking thermometer with wavy lines under that. so I figured it must be something coolant related. Having to get to work, I took it slow and steady, after all it was cold...
The temp gauge came up to normal, which is dead on in the center... not even a fluctuation. Got to work, shut off the car, counted to 10 and started it... no more flashing light... car sat all day, about 9 hours, and drove home... was fine the whole time...Was this a fluke, should I check the coolant, will any coolant do? And to think I've had 8 or so months without a problem. Hopefully just a reminder I am driving a VW.
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My digital exterior temp reads -40 degrees in May when it's toasty warm outside.
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My dad has a 2000 Mountaineer (Millennium edition) and the Compass/Thermometer display has not worked in months. I looked through the Manual and looked through the fuse block and they do not specify which number on the fuse block deals with this. Its probably tied in with something else but its not clearly noted in the manual.
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I have a 2004 Solara. Ever since I could remember, the outside thermometer has been giving me false readings. When I pulled out of my garage today, the outside thermometer read 50 degrees. I drove to work without stopping for 60 miles and the gauge still read 50 degrees. When I got to work, the gauge quickly dropped to 41 degrees.
This problem has happened many time before. When the car is in motion, the temperature will not change. When the car comes to a stop, then it will adjust. Where is the sensor for the thermometer? Maybe the air is not reaching it due to the high speed.
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This has happened a few times now. First time at a stop light, and most recently while coming down a hill. All of my needles drop and I get no response from the engine, brakes and power steering work for a little while and then they cut out. I pull over to the side of the road, turn it off, sometimes it turns back on immediately, other times it will do the same thing needles go up and back down.
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After disconnecting my am/fm/cd factory unit in my 2014 F250, my outside thermometer does not work. The digital readout has three dashes and an F instead of numbers. What is the fact that the stereo controls the thermometer? Is there any way to deactivate this, so that I don't have to stare at ___F? I'd rather that it just is blank. Is this the same result that other aftermarket stereo installs have got???
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My car Gen.2 was 200K. I change the water pump and thermostat on 150K. The reason to change the parts because I think my car a lot of miles. The car run great no problems. Till last month my car had overheat on freeway at night time. The temperature up to 245 F have the red triangle on dash and thermometer icon on Navigation screen. Before overheat on same day on the daytime when I take off I heard sound water running in the engine. The day after I check the level coolant in the reservoir tank was full but in the radiator need to fill up the coolant. After that when I drove the car the coolant overflow form the reservoir all the time. I have to check and fill up the coolant in the radiator every morning. I been the many shop ask them about the symptom of my car. Some they told me water pump failure, some said thermostat failure open all the time or some told me head gasket leak. I check all the engine didn't see any leak but I saw coolant overflow from reservoir...
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I have a 2009 dodge journey. Besides the brakes it has been a great car. A few months ago my car started dinging. The notification chime (the noise it makes when say your gas light goes on) doesn't stop. It "dings" about every 5 seconds. There is no consistency on when it starts. No constant. The only constant about this problem is, it stops when the wheels stop moving. Not step on the brake or gas, the car has to be at a complete stop.
It starts immediately when the car starts to roll. It will do it every time I drive for weeks, then for no reason will stop and not do it for a month. I am afraid to take my car on long trips for the fear of it starting to "ding". I have tried and tried to get it diagnosed but no one can fix it or even find a reason it would be doing it. There is no notification light so they don't know where to start. How to cut the wire that is hooked up to this chime ...
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I'm currently having an issue with our 2008 Explorer, 4.0L, 4x4 RSC. The RSC light will come on, and there is a dinging sound. This has happened in the past, usually in town, slower speeds, etc. I had it checked out, but no codes were being thrown. The brakes (rotors & pads) are fairly new and in good working order.
Well, tonight it happened at ~70mph. It felt like each brake was individually depressing, even though the brake pedal had not been touched. I assume it's a sensor but plan to get it into the detailer on Thursday.
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I just bought my wife a 2010 GX 460 and noticed an issue today with 4 Lo. When sitting with the car on, and in park, I engaged 4 Lo. The 4 Lo light began flashing along with a dinging sound. It didn't stop when I put it in drive or reverse, and just continued. The manual states I need to take it into the dealership because there is a malfunction.
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I just bought myself an '02 F-350XL 4X4 with a 7.3l, love the truck, but I've got an issue. When you first start the truck and the chimes go through their little ditty, about 3 seconds later they go off again.. but this time they chime five times and cycle five times, so a total of 25 times over a certain period.. seems to do it about every half hour, could this be related to the clock somehow? The truck is bare bones basic, XL trim level Reg cab, Auto with tilt, cruise and A/C, oh and the premium stereo...
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I have a 2000 V10 4wd. I'm going to list what happened in time order to best describe this problem. Sometimes when key is off there is a clicking from under the brake proportioning valve and sometimes a 2 second long buzz. When this happens, the A/C blower motor can run with key out also. If mistakenly left on over night it kills the battery.
I also notice that sometimes while driving my airbag light comes on randomly and sometimes it dings with doors closed. Also a few weeks ago the overdrive light starts blinking every few days. A few weeks later it wont start. No crank. So I put in new starter because mine was looking pretty crusty. Still no crank, but if I jump connection on inner fender solenoid/relay, then it starts fine.
Next day I put in a new solenoid/relay on passenger inner fender. Cranks fine and starts fine for the whole day until it randomly begins cranking by it self. With no key in. It did this several times even after re-checking everything and cycling key switch to check for bad connection there. The trans starts shifting hard, like the line pressure increased and sometimes it growls a little when it shifts into 4th
I then figured it was the Digital Trans Range Sensor which only allows start signal to go from key switch to the inner fender solenoid/relay if the trans is in park or neutral. I tested the DTRS and it seems to be working fine. It only has power at the solenoid if its in park or neutral on the tan/red wire, but the wht/pnk wire has power even when not cranking.
Being I couldn't figure out why it had power, I cut the red/lt blu wire at the ignition harness and ran a wire from the key switch side to the solenoid. Cranks and starts fine for 2 days and no mystery cranking either. Then after my wife had it all day acting fine I go to leave work that night in the rain after working a 14 hour day..... no crank. I noticed the "THEFT" light blinking but I've noticed that before and never had an issue starting.
When I came back to work in the morning it cranked and started fine 3 or 4 times then crank but no start again. I reconnected the crank wire back to factory thinking I bypassed something necessary. No change. Still acting randomly. I just ordered a VSS for the rear axle and a new DTRS for the trans. Gonna put these in today and test. Next will be a key switch since I'm having things work with key not on and I have 8volts on my grey/yell Accessory wire with key off.
I found a relay that clicks when inserted in it's socket even if key off. Its located driver side by Firewall by the Brake Booster. It has a tan/red wire(same as activation wire on inner fender solenoid but doesn't effect starting.
I have a schematic of starting system but I can't post pics because new acct here. The starter wire is red/blue at Key Switch then wht/pink after Central Junction Box, then dk blu/org after CPPJ clutch pedal position jumper(mine is auto trans. thats why is has factory jumper) but then turns to wht/pink before the DTRS then tan/red out of DTRS and at solenoid(I'm not sure it goes direct from DTRS to solenoid but color stays). As mentioned earlier, the white/pink wire has power but it shouldn't unless cranking, so its either getting it from the CJB or from where it changes from dk blu/org to wht/pink. Is there anything between the CJB and the DTRS? If nothing then why does color of wire change, and what could be giving the wire power?
Just as a note, in case it matters....my interior lights don't come on when door is opened but when it is open it dings like the key is in even when its not.
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So I washed the car today, and when I was done I had the Parking Brake error. Now the button keeps blinking and the parking brake light on the dash keeps blinking too. I don't think the brake is actually engaged, but I am afraid of pushing the button now in case it locks up in "engaged mode". That way I can't drive to work tomorrow. I know this may just be the button, but driving around with this dinging sound and blinking lights is annoying.
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I have a 98 F250LD the problem I'm having is that my door dings when open and no key in the ignition. It only stops if I put the key in and turn it to run.
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Have the dinging when a passenger sits in the seat but doesn't buckle up? It must have a sensor in the seat to trigger the dinger to go off. 2013 f150 5.0 xlt ....
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