So I think I have a slow battery draw. Did a test and the first result showed a 1.4/1.6 amp draw. So I started pulling fuses, and the F8 fuse (in the engine bay) dropped it to 0.4/0.5. F8 fuse is what I believe is labeled as the Radio. I have no audio upgrades. Just the stock RCD-510.
View 8 RepliesI narrowed my battery drain to the box on top of the battery. When I disconnect all three fuses and the 4th wire from inside the box my draw goes to 0 but when I connect any of those 4 it will go back up. Connecting all of them will not increase the draw any more but it seems all of them are connected in some way?
View 3 RepliesI bought my X 2 weeks ago on a Saturday. It was dead when I picked it up, due to sitting. No big deal. I live an hour from where I bought it. Drove it sunday and monday no problem. Tuesday, I fired it up, drove to work. It sat about 11 hours, I came out and it was dead. I jumped it. Drove home and put it on a charger overnight. Fired it up wednesday morning and drove to work. Just for good measure I did a charging system check. It passes with flying colors. Park it and come out 11 hours later. Dead. I jumped it and pulled it inside and threw a new battery in it. Should be good to go...
I drove it, and had no problems till sunday night. It sat about 16 hours and was again dead. I put my charger on it overnight again. Drove to work monday morning and grabbed my inductive amp clamp. I use that for larger draws so I know I won't pop the fuse in my meter.
I pop the hood, and lock the doors. Put the meter on it and its showing 9amp draw. Normal till the computers fall asleep and such. It dropped down to 4.8 amps and didnt' drop. I checked it an hour later and it was still at 4.8. So I left it sit and when I'd walk by I'd check it. Once in a while it was reading 0.0. The others 4.8. When I went out to leave for the day it was at 0.0, and the truck started just fine.
It's been a week now with no problems, and the only thing I have done is lube all the latches and hinges. BUT... last night I was working in the garage and once in a while I could hear what sounded like a motor running for a second or 2 in the clamshell trunk lid. I know it doesn't currently lock, but I didn't think it could or would continue to attempt it.
With the hood open and the hood light bulb pulled out, measured the parasitic draw on their truck? I checked mine because it appears my battery is slowly discharging if the truck sits 3 or 4 days. I got 0.24 amps which seems in line with running the clock memory and the computer. I have a feeling the battery is shot even though it is only 3 years old. When I bought the truck it had a ton of yellow fuzz on the terminals. That is cleaned up and with it running I get about 14.35 volts at idle so it is charging. 0.24 draw??
View 10 RepliesJust wondering if leaving the key in the ignition in the lock position causes the car to draw power from the battery.
View 6 RepliesI notice on my MFD that my battery level never fills up to the top. I've seen purple when it's low, blue, and green when it's in a high charge state, but there's always a missing 'never filled in' space for another bar, though always blank.
I can let off the gas downhill with it already green and that blank space for an extra green bar never fills. It just stays blank. Is this normal?
I found a decent deal on a 2nd gen prius. But I am going to need to repair the battery. I have already known that I can test and only repair the needed cells (since I looked into the situation when I was buying mine a year ago). Looking at the forums and saw there were a couple of chargers being recommended by the users; such as the supermate DC6 or the Hitec 44151 Quad X4.
I will likely want to charge 8 cells at time at least, as I would ideally like to get the car fixed in a couple of weeks.
My battery light is coming on intermittently but the truck seems to be running fine need to know how to test it to make sure that is the problem.
View 9 RepliesCar was fine, then wouldn't start one day, after driving fine a couple of minutes before. Did this a few times previously, just tried a few times then it started again. There is no cranking when I turn the key, just a click. Lights work fine, stereo etc, no dip in power when turn key. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine. Also tested battery - fine. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. Don't see a reason the engine should have seized, as it was driving just fine, then wouldn't start suddenly, but I haven't tried manually turning the crank. I then looked at the switch on the clutch pedal that gets pressed when you push the clutch in, and allows it to start. Looked ok, but pulled the wires and bypassed it with a cable. Still nothing. Can the starter test ok but still be bad? Toyota Corolla 2003 80,000 miles ...
View 19 RepliesIt's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold). I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue. Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well. Should I have the batteries load tested first?
View 14 RepliesI am slamming my head on this. I have a 2004 R32 with two codes for camshaft sensors. I noticed and replaced the timing chains because they were stretched out and a tensioner was not holding the chains. I still have these faults in the system. I also checked with my Ross-Tech and in measure block 208 and 209, third blocks that there is nothing showing. Both coming up blank.
I then brought it to the dealer and telling them that the chains were replaced for this reason. They have checked the timing to make sure it is correct and timed. They checked the wiring and they said there is a connection from the sensor to ECU. They replaced the ECU but still have the same issue. They too cannot see the blocks for 208 and 209.
They informed me today that there is a confusion of the signal wire from both of the sensors reading 11 volts on each signal wire but the voltage from the ECU is 5 volts. They asked me to cut the wire from the ECU and check the output directly from the ECU and that too is showing 11 volts with key on. Key off shows nothing. They don't know if that is correct or not.
Is my screen fried? Cold weather came in and the screen died and the fuel icon showed up... Even tho I recheck if the guy lid is open...
View 9 RepliesPicked up another gti vr6 5 speed for my girlfriend. It needed the control arm bushings replaced. Finished up and went to drive the car. Now when in gear and let of the clutch. Makes a terrible sound and won't move. But speedo goes up .
View 3 RepliesI need to test the stock fuel pump. Best way of doing so?
View 8 RepliesAny way to test the radiator temp sensor for faults? My radiator fans arent kicking on, and my car will get upto 215f on the drive to work. I am also going to replace the thermostat and test my radiator fans and relay today, but I have no idea how to test the sensor.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought this golf and well gotta say very happy with it, W reg so 2000 model and it the 1.9 TDI SE variant, 29,000 miles and only one owner from new. But like many before me I have a air con issue.
So here's what I have looked at. Done the climatronic test with two error codes
04B6 Standing Time Signal
0318 Air Conditioner Pressure Switch
The blower works inside etc, but only blows warm air. I can hear the engine rev's change when I push the Econ button. So car is pretty mint but 15 years old, where should I start looking.
03 Jetta. The cruise has not been working. Turning cruise on and off works fine as light comes on on dash. Brake pedal switch was replace about a year ago, and I don't think that is the problem because when this was the car would actually go into limp mode.
Just checked the clutch pedal switch by jumping the plug (This was the blue switch lower on the pedal), and still no cruise function. I'm really leaning toward it being the "set" switch/button on the steering wheel as this just feels kinda broken. Did I test the clutch pedal switch correctly? Any other reason the cruise would stop working?
I installed a usp test pipe a while back and I noticed a hissing sound coming out from my cluster right after the install. I have seemed to ignore the sound but now its getting to me.
View 10 RepliesSo I use my car as a "work truck" and part of my duties involves stopping at a number of houses(8-12) for 5-15 min at a time and then driving 2-6 miles to the next house.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2005 Camry XLE v6 that has been draining down the battery lately. I checked the idle current draw and found its about 320mA. What the general range should be? I took the reading with all doors closed (no lights), engine off and nothing switched on except the systems that require constant power.
The car has an aftermarket radio (Pioneer AVIC D1) installed (which has a line tied to the constant power source). At this setting, I suppose only the clock and the security system should be ON, but shouldn't those systems draw very little power? ... I looked through the Hayne's manual but couldn't find anything about idle current draw.
When I went to shut off the ignition today, the MFI showed "Parking Light On". Don't know why it happened but it shut off by itself. But then it switched over and said "Side Light On" and the annoying buzzer stayed on. This is the second time that message came on. I started the engine again and it shut off. Actually, the first time the message "Side Light On" came on was after I had opened the rear hatch and noticed the inside lights stayed on.
View 5 Replies