Golf/GTI VI :: Temporary Throttle Cut Out In Hard Cornering?
Jul 28, 2014
As I got to work today, I took the off-ramp particularly enthusiastically. At the very end of the ramp, I got a huge red warning on my MFI saying 'Fuel Pressure Low, Engine off'. Error message was on for maybe 2 seconds. I checked my tach, no dip below 2k, throttle response was normal. Car has run fine after that.
My hypothesis of this happening: I was low on fuel. Indicated range was 40 miles. When I took that corner hard, gas must have sloshed around in the tank in a way that the fuel pump didnt 'find' any gas for a couple seconds - causing the error. As the fuel settled in the tank, got back to normal.
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I get a whine when I'm driving hard under low speeds and accelerating (only when really aggressive). Is this cause for concern? Haldex whine I'm assuming?
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Have some issues with my power steering pump. When I purchased the car i discovered it had brown fluid in it. Replaced it with green type and tough the pump had taken no damages from it. Did a track day with slicks (Toyo R888) and got problems with fluid boiling and loss off power in hard cornering.
My first thought was that the pump was damages by the wrong fluid. Before I got around replacing it the pump started making more and more whining sounds while driving on normal road with road tires.
Therefor I replaced the pump but the sound still continues. I changes the belt tensioner as well since the bearing could cause some issues like this as well. But the pump still struggle on normal road usage.
Could the steering rack be damaged with some internal leakage from the wrong fluid on it when purchased? I run DLI engine mounts, I can't see how but would that affect the sound from the pump?
Could there be any bearing on the belt (water pump/ac/alternator?) causing this issue? When running idle the belt runs fine with out any typical shot bearing sound.
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I just noticed that when I am taking a hard right turn such as getting on the freeway or exiting, I hear random clicking noises in rapid successions in random intervals. the traction control alarm also lights up when this happens. is this normal? it sounds like relays are going crazy. I have not tried left turn yet since there isn't many opportunities around.
Clicking happens under hard cornering which in turn causes TC light to come on and when still under acceleration.
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So driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
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I just did a stage 1 remap on a 2010 golf r, everything is works like a charm. However, when I lift-off the throttle the car jerks hard. This only occurs on the first start and cures itself after a drive. I could simply replicate the problem by shutting down the engine and turning it back on. it doesn't have to be cold. it seems to be the ecu forgot everything it learn after i switch off the engine. Happens in all gears including reverse. noticed that during reverse, the car seem to go fast with light throttle , and back to normal once the problem is cured after a drive. Had no issues before the tune.
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So after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
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Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
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I have a 04 R32 approaching 140,000 mi. The EPC came on on two separate occasions on the freeway going about 70-80 MPH, the vehicle lost power for a split second with the EPC light on. After that split second, the vehicle regain power and act normal again. I've been having minor problem with different thing and not sure if it's all related. I am high idling at 1,100 RPM in traffic and hard to start the vehicle from time to time (I noticed especially when the gas tank is approaching the red zone). Recently, the mechanic cleaned the throttle body real good and minimized the high idle problem.
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Got an odd clunk, feels like rear off throttle from hard acceleration. Feels like diff bushings might be worn. Looking for some info about diff bushings and how they feel. Also found the front prop shaft coupler looks like its seen much better days so ill be replacing that.
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2002 Jetta 1.8t, auto tranny, 90K miles. Recently took it in and had all coilpacks replaced under VW's recall.
Sometimes when it's been sitting out in cool air for a long time (in Texas summers, this is nights-only), about 3 miles in it suddenly starts misfiring- BAD. Check Engine light comes on. Lasts about 30 sec, then goes away and doesn't come back for the rest of the drive. WTF?? I can't make it happen on queue.
I heard about the all-too-common grounding problem on the engine harness. I did find a significant resistance between the ring terminal on the head and the battery (-). I tied the 3 ground posts under the battery together with 12ga wire and crimped terminals, and ran another 12 ga wire up to the engine block ground right under the ring terminal that grounds the coils, which should have shorted past any weak spot on the harness. PROBLEM STILL OCCURS!
Scans showed:
17766 Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
16682 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
16684 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
17658 Low Fuel light (only ~3 miles after lighting the Low Fuel warning, I don't think the fuel pump's running dry just yet here)
Seems to focus on Coil 2. But last time I did this I got these errors for Coil 3 and swapped it for a new replacement I had in the trunk in case one went out unexpected. Well now it just says Cylinder 2. Just did it again tonight after clearing codes and got these same Cylinder 2 errors again.
Actually I started to wonder... I've been running the tank close to the "low fuel" light to check my actual mpg usage (no display for it in my MK IV), but fill back up a few miles after it lights. I can think of a couple of spots on the late-night drive back that I see this, one's after a hill which might cause a fuel pump to run dry temporarily, but another's a light downhill then up a light offramp. I don't think the tank's been low every time this happened but I'm not sure. Well, a couple of times it's been mostly level in the parking lot anyhow and misfired a bit right off the bat when starting, so probably not.
Wouldn't there be some sort of "low fuel pressure" code if fuel starvation was actually the issue going on? Hmm, I went looking and I'm not sure there is one for a MkIV, there's errors for fuel trim but I don't think you get those in short-term. This is kinda scary how it just goes out while driving, and I can't do much to reproduce it or test out fixes.
So looking further, other people report what may be intermittent fuel pump issues when the tank goes low. But could that result in "Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit"? I mean the coils will still electrically read as firing. Of course if the system gets all glitch-y, the software may be making a mistake somewhere and report this wrongly.
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I live in NM. It's been excessively hot here this summer, 95+ daily for the past 2 months.
Yesterday while I was driving I noticed a weird feel in the accelerator pedal. Almost like a mini-misfire. It was intermittent. Maybe did it 6 or so times in a 10 minute time span. My wife couldn't feel it in the passenger seat but I definitely felt it through the pedal. There was no MIL light during or after the incident.
We get home, she gets out on the passenger side and there was a strong fuel smell (tank, filler, and filter are on that side). By the time I got the car up in the air and the rear passenger tire off and fender liner out the smell had dissipated (probably evaporated due to the high temperature). There were no noticeable leaks. No dripping. Before I had it in the air I definitely smelled fuel underneath the car around the rear passenger side. I opened the hood and didn't smell or see anything in the engine bay.
I called VW customer care and they informed me this recall of the fuel tank ventilation valve was performed back in 2009 but the symptoms explained in the recall are exactly what I experienced. I verified the recall was done using my VIN number search on NHTSA's Safer Car site.
I can imagine that although the recall was done 7 years ago, it's still possible for this ventilation valve to fail. Especially because the recall states high ambient temps are a factor.
I have a legit VCDS but have not scanned it yet. Wife is off today so I took her car. I plan to go home, scan the car, and try to reproduce the issue before taking the fender liner out again. I have the means to do my own work but if I have to do something like drop the fuel tank I'll probably take it in.
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At times when taking my beloved R aggressively through a long, tight turn (e.g. highway cloverleaf on ramp), usually while while accelerating, I get an oil pressure warning message (turn off engine immediately)...which goes away immediately once I straighten out/ease off on the aggressiveness.
Is this just an indication that oil is a little low? I can't say specifically what the interval vs. the last oil change was when I've had this happen.
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FYI This is on the passenger side. Should I just replace the whole metal shaft? Can I just replace the rubber thing that is severed? If this is the wheel bearing do i need to get it repacked?
I am replacing the whole suspension because I started hearing a "pfft" sound going over bumps and sometimes a clunk on the passenger side when cornering to the right. is this severed leaking rubber thing the main cause of the clunk perhaps?
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When I drive in a parking lot or parking garage and start off into a slow, tight corner, I feel a "surge". If I had a locked diff I would understand. I have a Haldex composition controller. I am not bothered about it...just wondering what it could be. Maybe the clutch slipping?? No evidence of that at full throttle acceleration runs in the higher gears.
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My cornering lights (the lights that come on with the turn signal or an actual turn under 22mph) don't work when the fog lights are on. Is there anything I can do outside of using a VCDS cable? It seems stupid since the cornering lights shoot out of the main headlight assembly, not the fogs.
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I have a 07 20T and today when I went to pass someone on the highway I punched the throttle and the car rev'd up and it started to jerk really hard as if it was not catching the next gear. So I let off the gas and everything went back to normal. Under normal driving the car drives normal and fine, its only when you give it some hard throttle and when it hits high rpm's it jerks, it feels like the car wants to stall. I have 30k miles on it.
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I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado with blown front shocks. I have Walker Evans shocks for an Arctic Fox utv that are the same size as my current shocks. I'm wondering if I can use those temporarily for daily driving until I can afford replacement shocks. Are utv shocks interchangeable with regular shocks if you have the proper springs?
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For the past few weeks I have had a bizarre issue with my 2010 Sonata GLS. If you unlock all doors (press the FOB unlock button twice), get in, close the door and then turn the key and attempt to start the car, all power is lost to the the interior and with no lights, radio etc. The car is literally dead and won't start. If I open the drivers side door and then close it again, all power comes back and I can start the car. All radio stored stations are lost, the clock is reset and usually the trip odometer is reset too. Other times, if I just press the FOB unlock once to unlock just the drivers side door, the issue does not apparently seem to happen. What the issue may be?
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I am driving to work as i do almost everyday but somethin weird happened when i got there... usually i turn my car off when I go into work as everyone does but i guess my car decided it still wanted to run today. I took my key out of the ignition but my car kept running. Luckily I filled up yesterday. I tried pushing the key in and taking it back out a couple times but it just stayed on. With my key out an the car running my MFD would say the steering column lock message but the steering wasn't locked an with the key in the message went away and steering was still free.
So I called my flight to let him know whats going on, since I was already in the parking lot he and a few others come to look and laugh and blame it on the fact its german or blame it on the features they want but dont have. [IMG] [URL] ..... but i the end it had something to do with the remote wire going to my amp?? I am not sure how but my flight chief thought to unplug it and my car just shut off. I am still wondering how a remote wire to my amp could keep my car running without the key. I've had the stereo system in over a year and its never done this..
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I have a 2009 V6 Ltd with about 15k miles. It has always seemed to shift a little too hard from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd under light to medium throttle. Does this sound like a transmission ill that can be fixed by adjustments?
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