Golf/GTI VI :: TDI Cuts Out While Driving
May 19, 2011
We have had the TDI for exactly a year now, and have 33 000 km's on it already. In the past 2 months, we've noticed the engine cutting off for a second while driving. It can do this a few times during one drive and it does it at any time, not related to the temperature of the engine; it has done it wether it's cold or warmed up.
Brought it to the dealership today for regular maintenance, they explained to me that it was normal and it's called a regeneration process for the emission system. They couldn't tell me the frequency that this could happen. For our car, it happens at least 2-4 times a week even a few times within a drive. I don't know if it was the same thing but I was passing a car last sunday and while accelerating, the engine just shut off for that second and all of a sudden a big cloud of gray smoke came out the back.
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So, my brother has an 01' VW Jetta 2.8 VR6 with a 120k miles on it. He was recently driving around 50mph when the engine cut out, he lost all power and all the lights on the dash came on. He didn't get any loud bang when it happened, it just cut out. He tried to restart the car but heard the starter try and nothing else.
He got it towed to a garage who said they suspected it might be a timing chain but they couldn't say for sure until they started poking around. He doesn't recall getting the loud "marbles in an" noise when the chain is about to go. They were quoting around $4k to replace the engine. Being as my brother is a poor student this isn't something he can do, plus he'd already replaced the radiator, tires and all that and I want to verify what is wrong with it.
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My kia runs great then cuts off during driving, It starts up with no problem and may run with no prblem for some time. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter, had it diagnostic, the only code that shows is the oxygen sensor. It also have had the jiffy lube fuel system cleaning. any clues to what may be happening, the vehicle has 150k miles.
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I have an F-150 with a 5.4L EFI and A/T. For the past two days while driving along the engine just cuts out. There is no chugging or sputtering. It just dies. When it happens, I place the trans in Neutral while still rolling along and it starts right up.
I had suspected it might have been a bad eec relay and connector that I had trouble with in the past, but I changed that all yesterday and the problem happened again today.
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I just bought a volvo 240, cuts off and stalls while driving. Wondering what hose this is.
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The other day I got into my car and it started fine. After driving about a block it cut out. All the dash lights come on but it makes a funny sound when turned over and doesn't start. I tried jumping it but it was no different
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I've been working with a friend who has a problem with his 96 Isuzu Hombre 2.2L (same as S10). Runs fine, then intermittently cuts off. He pulls to the side of the road, and tries to start it. It cranks but won't fire. He waits about 10 minutes or so, then he starts it up just fine. No computer codes.
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I have a 1994 Celica 1.8L ST which cut off on me while driving. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem. Here's what I've done so far:
Originally after the engine would cut off I could get it to start again, but there came a point when it wouldn't start. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, and immediately the car fired up again and was running. However, the check engine light was now on and the engine had far less power and was running very rough. Nevertheless, the car was still working and would no longer cut off. Thus, I took the car to Precision Auto Tune to get a diagnostic test done, and they told me the distributor was bad.
I then purchased a new distributor and replaced the old one. Immediately the check engine light disappeared so I took the car out for a test drive and it ran perfectly; yet, after ten minutes, the engine suddenly cut off while driving down the road. After coasting the car to a place to park, it refused to start again. I left it overnight, tried starting it the next day and it randomly started. It ran for 10 minutes again in park before cutting off again. Since then, i thought the new distributor was faulty and exchanged it for another, but the engine still cuts off after running and refuses to start again. However, when it refuses to start, if I install the old "faulty" distributor, the car starts without a problem, but the check engine light also appears.
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I am having problems with my 94 Caprice. It will start right up when cold. After driving for awhile (not too long) then engine cuts off. Electric power is on but the engine is off (like it ran out of gas, or the gas was shut off). At first, it would take a few minutes for the engine to restart. Now that I have replaced the Fuel Pump Relay, it will start right back up, but when driving it still cuts off.
Could it be the ECM? Where is it located? Is it a "do-it-yourself" job?
What other problems might it be (besides the fuel pump)? Could it be the power distribution box under the hood? I also have fog lamps hooked up to the panel that wont work. The switch light comes on but the lamps do not. I am going to try to hook the (+) up to the battery and see if the lamps get power, if so, the box is fried (or the stud) But if the main power distribution wasnt working would the car still run, start? If the stud is damaged would it cause the gas to shut off?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan that is having multiple electrical issues. The problem first starts to show with the instrument panel needles going all the way to the right and coming back to the left. Some of the instrument lights stay lit. Then either in the next few minutes or days, the engine will shut off while driving. I can wait 30 seconds and sometimes it will start. After this sequence occurs, when I turn the key, the instrument lights will come on for a millisecond and then the engine will not start at all. I take it into the dealer and they say that the battery is severely discharged. They charge up the battery and the problem goes away for 1500-3000 miles. Of course, the dealer does not know what is causing the problem.
It seems like one of the issues could be a defective ignition switch, but what I can't figure out is what is causing the battery to severely discharge?I have removed the BMC fuse, waited 30 seconds and this would allow the vehicle to start, but I have stopped trying this approach because it does not remedy the situation long term.
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I've got a 2010 Camry. I've had it since new and it's been pretty well maintained. Recently, I've been having an issue where it cuts like it wants to stall out when I stop after driving.
The idle will also surge, but it's a small surge, from like 750 rpm to 1,000 and then back to 750. Last night after driving, it dropped to around 500rpm for s second and I thought it was going to stall, but it didn't.
I love the car, so I'm hoping it's not a serious issue. 6 speed manual with about 130,000 miles. Other than this and a small exhaust leak, it's running great.
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Has happened twice. No check engine light, no code. Lights and electronics stay on, beeps like the door is open, shuts off and I am able to turn it right back on. Definitely do not want this happening on the highway. Don't have any other issues with idle, etc..
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so, I'm driving home the other day in stop and go 102 degree traffic, and my A/C cuts out. I thought maybe my compressor took a dump, because I've noticed a little noise from that side of the engine. Then I look down, and notice my water temp is like 240-250ish. As soon as traffic starts up again, temp goes down to normal, and A/C comes back.
I have a 2 mile commute to work, so it hasn't happened since then.
no DTC's, no rad fan. A/C fan works. Put 12V to fan - no worky. fuse block on top of battery not melted.
Obviously I need a fan, but I was wondering about something else. since this started, my car gets to normal operating temp (NOT), in literally under 2-3 minutes. I know its Texas and a billion million degrees, but I think that's too fast.
Green top coolant temp sensor, and metal impeller water pump already installed.
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1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 in line 6 Cyl misfires when driving. I bought this about 2 months ago (200,000 miles), and when i first got it it was acting like it was misfiring when driving above 60 mph( did get codes P0301 cyl 1 misfire, and P1391 CPS) . it started to act the same way just driving in my small town. so i ended up changing the ignition coil pack and changing spark plugs, i also replaced the CPS (camshaft position sensor). and was still acting the same way. I located a TSB that said there might be a carbon build up problem preventing valves from rotating and seating.
So I used seafoam and clean up the Top, and drove it in low gear at 4500 rpm for 15 seconds or so 6 times.. initially when doing this it was cutting out (jerking) when rpms got up there. after doing this twice with about 3 weeks in between never had a problem in town with it acting up running like it should from what i can tell..
Then i took a road trip, and a 60 mph was fine, 70 mph it was fine.. so i thought it fixed the issue and all good.. but about an hour into the drive it started acting up again.. unexpectedly cutting out for a second here and there, and usually when going up hill, and when got to destination about another 40 minutes, coming to a stop light i noticed it when stopping it was running pretty rough like it wanted to die out but never actually did. never got any more check engine lights either. I'm kinda at a loss at what the issue might be, and what i need to do to fix it as i really like the vehicle
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Over the past several years, this has happened maybe once a year. However, in the past three months, it has happened three times. The shut down always occurs at low speeds. In each instance, I had taken my foot off the accelerator and was coasting to, say, make a turn into a driveway, or enter a parking deck, or move slowly in traffic. I'll realize what happens when i notice that the steering wheel is locked. And then that nothing is happening except the car rolling.
Every time, the car has started back up, immediately, without incident. (Of course, I have to stop the vehicle and put it into Park before restart. Only once have I had the problem where someone was right behind me.) Several mechanics have been unable to figure out what is causing it because this never leaves a code in the car's computer. What is going on and what he might service to fix this?
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The panel goes off and the fan quits blowing. Sometimes it works, cools great, then just cuts off...
1989 Bronco II 2.9 4x4 auto 164k miles... I have been on TRS, BroncoII Corral, and even FSB searching.
This is the first attempt at reaching out because i have found that here at FTE the folks that chime in know their stuff, or know where i can find out for myself.
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I got a 99 jeep sport straight 6. AC works fine after topping off. Pressure 32 l/s 210 h/s could still be a little low but air is very cold. Problem is while drive compressor shuts off. I thought it may have been too low causing it to kick off. while in park & holding rpm's at 2k everything seem to be ok.
It cycled on/off at times as normal but then compressor stopped & didn't come on again. shut the engine off checked the fuses restarted & the air is back running like normal?? so whats going on do I have a bad l/pressure switch or may be a relay sticking??while at 2k rpm's l/side 25 h/side 250 then at idle 32 & 210. I don't think its low enough to cause the shut off but.....
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Today while driving the stereo simply cut/lost its sound. Radio and everything else still works buttons screen, just no sound. Turned the car off, it sat for 5 mins and turned the car back on. Sound came back for nearly 20 sec and then cut off.
Looking over the Lexus history the ML amp was replaced with what Lexus history shows as an upgraded amp per TSB about 30-40k miles ago if I recall.
The previous amp issues when it failed was the chipping noise, correct? Could I still potentially have a failed amp?
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MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
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When im driving my truck down the road all the power cuts off then comes back on, don't know what it is?
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Once I had driven for about 15 minutes and the truck set for about 5 minutes. Then it would not start. Another time, I drove for about 20 minutes and it cut off while driving in a parking lot. I have had 2 different shops take a look at it and they cannot duplicate the problem. They have run a bunch of diagnostics and tried their selves but it always starts for them.
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