Golf/GTI VI :: TDI Coolant System Malfunction / Not Working
Jun 23, 2011
This morning when I started up my car the coolant light flashed red, an audible warning chime sounded and the MFI read that I need to check the manual. Because the light was flashing, the manual says there is an engine coolant system malfunction and I need to take it to the dealer. The car was completely cold at the start, so I turned it off, then back on and there was no warning. I drove to work and the temperature gauge read right where it should be the whole way. This afternoon, when I started it up to go home the same thing happened. By the way, the car has only 4800 miles on it.
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Got the red exclamation today going around a cloverleaf off-ramp (19k miles). Coasted home with normal oil and coolant Temps and just waiting for her to cool before topping up the expansion tank and poking around with a flashlight.
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I just bought a 2003 W12 Phaeton with 55.000 km on the clock and a few problems that were knocked off the price.
The car is absolutely fantastic, so much better than my previous 4.2 A8, although I bought with a gearbox problem that dropped the price down to USD 8.000.
The gearbox issue is that it jumps from 1st to 2nd gear with a 'clock' and much harder when the other way around (2nd to 1st). Sometimes so hard that it automatically engages the "safe mode" with the yellow PRNDS sign on the screen. Once on 2nd gear and up, it runs smoothly.
My plan is to take the gearbox off the car and bring it to an expert mechanic on ZF gearboxes, as the VW dealer quotes USD 9.000 for a new gearbox.
Re the other issues, I have plugged in the VCDS after changing both batteries (a standard 90 Ah on the right, a VARTA G14 95 Ah on the left) which show many faults that I can't really identify. The problem I have noticed is that one button on the steering (the OK push button on the right) does not work and when it is pushed, the cruise is deactivated (?). Looks like this module will need to be replaced (VCDS says 'control module defective').
The other issue I have noticed is that the TPMS system doesn't work. On the screen it shows clocks on each wheel... and nothing happens. I guess it's the batteries of the sensors, so I am thinking of replacing them. Would this solve the problem?
I just realized that I did my last VAG-COM check before clearing previous DTCs, so I will do that now and come back to post it.
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The code in question is:
18613 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump
It's a fun catch-all code that can be thrown from any of those. Given that our cars are approaching the 6 year mark, the coolant sensor & thermostat are the most likely culprits. Most of us up on maintenance have already done the green-top sensor, so it's probably the thermostat. In which case, here is the official changing the thermostat DIY: [URL] .....
If you get this code, first check your fans. They're running? Okay, change your sensor & clear it. If it comes back, change the thermostat. If it still comes back, which has been known to happen, investigate further. [IMG] [URL] .....
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Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
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So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
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Couple days ago I drove to work, everything worked fine but fired up everything to drive home and fan wouldn't blow anything on any of the settings. Checked all the fuses and didn't find anything burnt out. Drove home last night and it kicked on as soon as I started the car. I've read up on the resistor that can go bad but it seems that would result in a blown fuse. Can't seem to find anything on the fan kicking on and off whenever it feels like it?
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Just got my new 2012 GTI with touchscreen radio, I think it's the RCD-510. I've noticed with my iPod plugged into the MDI, all of a sudden, i can't actually browse by artist or album. I was able to browse by artist a few days ago when I first got it (I know this because I was putting on some beastie boys in honor of MCD passing), but as of yesterday when I try to browse by artist or album, instead of getting the list of artists or albums to select, the radio just goes back to the screen that shows whatever song is currently playing.
For some reason, I'm able to browse by playlist and song, but to by artist or album. I've tried unplugging the iPod (it's an iPod touch) to no avail.
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I've got a 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen and the blower fan stopped working (again).
About 3 months ago it stopped working on the 1-3 setting and 4 worked fine. So I searched these forums and found the resistor pack was blown. Replaced it with the ~$30 official VW part and it worked fine until last week.
Now all settings are not working. I ohm'd out the resistor pack and they appear to be fine. I put a current limited 12v supply on the fan and it spun up without a problem. I checked the voltage coming from the car to the fan connector and it was at 0v.
From reading the forums this tends to point to a faulty switch. If it is a fault switch then why does the AC light turn on when I switch from 0 to 1?
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So after 1.5 years of owning my R I got my first CEL. The code is P2181. I did some searching and this is a problem in the coolant system.
In the previous posts about this these were the possible problems:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump
I checked my car and I have the updated green coolant sensor. My question is should I just get a thermostat and replace that or should I replace the green coolant sensor with another one? Do the green ones go bad?
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So I bought an 01 GTI last week with a decent amount of things pre-modified including a Jetta front end swap? Anyway the guy I bought it from knew absolutely nothing about what had been done to the car other than the fact that there was an HID kit installed and it was set up to run high beams only.
I figured I'd remove the HID's until i drop some cash on a pair of nice projector housings. I removed them and plugged up some nice sylvania bulbs as per the OEM standard 9007, and figured I'd have no issues... They are still stuck on high beam only... What could be causing this?
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So the car broke down on my wife while on the way to work again. This time the coolant is completely drained from the system. It is all over inside the engine compartment so it's impossible to tell where the leak actually is. Within the last year we have replaced the pump and thermostat so I am going on the assumption that neither of those are an issue at this point.
Although I figure a stuck Tstat might cause too much pressure to build up and blow a line. Ill cross that bridge when the time comes. I also assume there should be nothing wrong with just putting water in there just to find the leak and then of course draining and putting the proper fluids in. Is this a wise course of action to take? You never know with these German things. I would of course use the same type of water that is used to mix with the coolant already.
My wife also stated that she did not see any smoke coming out of the tailpipe and only the engine. This means the engine itself should be safe and no gasket blew inside.
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Like the title states, I've got P2181 (coolant system performance) CEL on again. I've had this code before and finally had everything serviced. It was off for 5k miles! I've spent a lot of time diagnosing this on the previous occurrences, and was 99% certain it was the thermostat due to the coolant temp dropping a notch or so when engine braking* on the interstate for more than a few seconds.
The current issue is mainly that the car will not heat up quite as fast, but it will not go lower from engine braking for a good chunk of time. I'm getting fairly poor MPG compared to what I was getting a month or two ago. The major changes are winter fuel blends and winter tires, which I'm sure affect the MPG a little, but I would hope not as much as I am seeing. Old average was around 27mpg combined and 30 or so for mostly highway, now I'm getting 24 tops. This is likely due to engine temps not being up to allow for most efficient fuel burning.
First plan is to change the CTS and see if that will fix it. If the code comes back after that, I'll have to check the thermostat and coolant mixture, but I wouldn't expect it to last only 5k miles.
Current: 105k
Thermostat and coolant changed at 100k
Water pump at 80k
CTS sometime around 70k
Engine braking lowering temp due to no fuel being ignited and coolant still circulating through the system if thermostat open.
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I have these two items removed and before I hit the road with the car I would like to get these damn sensors outta my cluster. What ohm resistors I need for each item? I lost my meter and would really like to not buy another.
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how common a problem it seems to be that our fans just stop working. Replacing those later this week.
My question is concerning my AC not working. Is it possible that, since the two fans won't work at all, the AC system won't engage? Or do I have two completely unrelated problems?
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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Noticed my coolant was going down. also realized my driver side radiator fan was not working. I ordered the part, im on that. But (1) should or can I still drive my car to work? Also would my driver side fan cause some of the radiator fluid to evaporate.?
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My MIL came on the other night so I brought it to the dealer today for diagnosis.
Per tech, "Found 1 DTC P2181 for cooling system malfunction, checked measuring values, found thermostat sticking open.
Recommendation is to replace thermostat with housing." I have 95K miles on the car, original owner...first time in a long time to have an issue.
The SA indicated the thermostat replacement. The tech indicated the thermostat is in the front of the engine which is hard to access.
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Well after 8 weeks on owning this touareg this is the second warning light we have to deal with and also had the dead battery scenerio which took 2 trips for them to fix.. Man this is crappy for sure. I am busy at work and do not have time to search around so any info would be great about another TSB that I have to take in to the dealership or anything.
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I have the VSC light, ABS Light, BRAKE light all on.
Check VSC System, Check ABS System, Check Brake System, Brake Malfunction.
I went to start the car this morning, battery was dead. Jump Started, and all these messages came up.
I have disconnected the battery for a good 2 hours, still no luck. I charged the battery. So its starts right up now.
The Brake Pedal is really HARD. When you brake, the car leans to the front Right Side.
When I reconnected the battery, The Brake Pedal is soft, but is instantly hard when Started.
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One morning I took the car out to the mall. Right away I had the ESP light on and stayed on the whole time. Tried turning it off with the ESP button to no avail. Got to the mall and let her sit for a few hours. Came back out and started the car and now two light are on. The ESP and Exhaust system malfunction. Found a thread that had the exact same problem as I did. He said the Mass airflow sensor must be bad. So the next morning I popped my hood to find out that a little mouse had made its nest in the engine and had bitten into the wiring harness that lead the the Mass airflow sensor.
I tore apart the tape and found that only the red wire had been chewed all the way through . I soldered the wire back together and re-wrapped the tape. Couldn't find any else around the whole car that was tampered with so I thought I was good to go. Started the car and both light are still on..Drove it around a couple more times to see if that would take them warning light off, and still no go. So I am guess this has to be removed by the dealer is the only way to go?
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