Golf/GTI VI :: Surging / Down Power Under WOT
Sep 17, 2014
So my 2012 GTI DSG with Revo Stage 1 has been great since the reflash. 25k miles. Well about a week ago I started noticing some surging-general lack of WOT power (felt stock) but no CEL, nothing. Took it to my mechanic and he hooked up his VAGCOM and we drove around and he couldn't discover any problems. No misfires, proper boost, everything. As far as I can tell, there's no good reason why it should be running weird and then normal without any intervention.
Bad fuel? Dirty injectors?
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Ok so a little back story, I have CEL codes 17748 & 17755 which basically tell me that I have a stretched timing chain. That being said, others say they have the same codes and their car runs like a champ and makes full power. Not sure the truth to that but whatever. Regardless, I don't know how a stretched chain would cause a sudden surge of power at certain rpm, but I do not know the ins and outs of this engine and ECU.
So, for some reason my car feels fine when driving around at low rpms, but when I take it above 3000 rpm or so with mild throttle, it feels a little weak. Now if I am giving it moderate throttle, once I hit the 3000 rpm range, all of the sudden I can hear my intake get louder and there is a sudden surge of power. Furthermore, it feels to me like as the rpms get higher, like over 4500-5000 range, the car feels pretty weak. I am not sure how the car should feel though because this problem has been like this since I bought it. I am pretty sure it's not making full power though.
I can see how stretched chains could lead to being out of timing which could mean low power up top, even though I don't know why the variable cam gears couldn't make up for this.. but what's up with this power surge thing?
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I have a late '99. It's been weak all summer. Took it to the dealership. They put it on the computer and said the only problem was bad injectors. Specifically #8. I replaced them all. It's still weak and now is starting to surge going down the road. I have my suspicions but I'm not a mechanic.
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I was driving my 2011 the other day home from work and experienced a rough idle. Normally the truck idles pretty smooth. I noticed when I was driving at highway speeds the truck seems to shake a lot. I pulled over and turned the truck off. I did a walk around and could find anything out of the ordinary. I started it back up and no more rough idle. However while i was driving at freeway speeds I could feel a momentary lack of power, then the truck would regain its speed. This would only last a sec or two.
I figured I'd give it a few days.... well now its gotten worse. Its doing the same thing but a noticeable difference in the lack of power. I still have boost pressure and the turbo seems to working fine. Im trying to figure out what it might be. I'll be taking my truck into ford again...
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So I have a NewSouth oil pressure gauge installed and have had no issues with the 2 years it's been installed. The problem lies after the car has warmed up and oil is up to operating temperature. Oil pressure will surge anywhere from 30 to 40 psi, no other indications abnormal (rpm, oil temp, water temp). I do not have a mechanical gauge to swap in for troubleshooting. Oil and filter were just replaced and checked for proper level.
The gauge acts like it has an electrical open circuit in the signal wire. At first I thought it was a bad sender, so I replaced it, no fix. Checked the signal wire to ground and no fluctuations at all.
What I am thinking it might be since it mostly happens at highway cruising speed is the oil pressure relief valve located on on the oil pump. From what I've read already it will cause the surging indication I am getting, but don't see the point in replacing it since all other indications are normal. Since it mostly happens at highway speed, I'm not convinced I have a bad gauge setup.
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So me wife has put on about 7000 miles on her new tdi. It's a dsg, 2012. We brought it in for some warranty work and oil change at 600miles.
She is having bucking forward and back issues in the morning and after the car has sat for a while. When you go to accelerate light throttle it literally jerks forward and back and moves you in your chair when shifting first to second.
Dealer said no codes no updates nothing. I know the dsg is clunky normally but it literally jerks us back and forth in the seat 2 to 3 times or more.
Also when on the highway it surges up and down when cruising 70 to 75 like wind is blowing the car with steady throttle.
I told dealer last visit to reset the dsg gearbox as my wife did 70%traffic driving the first 4000miles. Now it's 90% highway.
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I have a customer that has a 2.0 mk4 with 260000 miles on it..about 20k miles ago we had 6 codes saying throttle body was not working and car was surging, so we ordered a vdo tb, installed it reset tb and it ran fine for 7 months and 20k miles. Again car is surging, so i tried a tb reset. tb was under guarantee so we took advantage and replaced it/reset it and it threw a code within 5 min of driving and hesitating/surging. He is original owner? possible ecu getting sleepy?
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While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
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Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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Today after driving my roadtrip to work my car started surging! It happened leaving the light after i had gotten of the exit! Around 5500-6000 rpms and the engine light came on and started flashing. This went on for about 10 sec then the engine light went off and no more surging. Car had a half tank of gas also. Just a note i also have EVOMS intake.
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I just acquired a 01 wolfsburg jetta 1.8t and first time vw owner.
I just got the car and found that all the pcv ventilation hoses were crumbling and broken down. I replaced everything under the intake up to the y at the valve cover. All was in stock at the dealer was the oil cooler elbow, tee and pcv valve. From there, i made my own hoses using 3/4 hose and couplers.
Before this, it ran fine but sometimes at idle the idle would jump up and down but not die. I also had a couple codes, can't remember what the number was. One was O2 bank 1 sensor 1 lean and i think the other was O2 related.
Now, after trying to fix the leaks. CE light went out but idle still does the same but my boost improved from like 5psi to like 9psi wot. That's not an issue but coming home tonight when i went to second, it felt like it was dragging or not wanting to accelerate or accelerate and like stall for a second. If you blip the throttle it back fires while in second when its doing this.
Only mod on the car i know of is it has a forge DV/blowoff i guess is the correct name. It can be used as a dv or both.
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So I just recently had to take my 2010 Golf TDI into the shop to replace the mechanics unit. Took them a while to get the unit installed but overall I was happy. The car was driving perfect for about 2-3 months. Then all of a sudden the transmission starting violently surging and dropping the clutch again. I thought the mech unit was going bad again in less than 5K miles. I couldn't get the car in the shop until about 3-4 days after and I did drive the car there because the surging was manageable. It did kick the car into safe mode when the dsg appeared to overheat. It turns out there was a leak from the gasket. They are fixing it now free of charge but it looks like they messed up.
The issue is now I am afraid of any damage that may have been caused to the mech/clutch form the fluid getting low. Should I be worried about this and if so what should I do? I would think the shop should be responsible for any damage done to the car.
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My 94 4Runner V6 has been acting up for over 4 months now. I've replaced the mass air flow sensor, the fuel pump, the fuel regulator, the O2 sensor, the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new distributor and rotor and last but not least the fuel line filter and dam it it's still screwed up. The spark plugs didn't show any signs of sooting or fouling in any way, I compared there color to Other used spark plugs and they looked good.
I've spent over $2000 on this 4Runner that had run perfect for almost 14 years and now I cannot even drive for 5 minutes without it bucking, hesitating, with No Power at all and eventually stalling. I also replaced the ECM or ECU with a good used one. I also cleaned the air intake and throttle body and cleaned and reattached the ground to the battery, the ECM, the coil which shows as being good, the ground to the engine from the firewall were also inspected and cleaned. I even bought a new gas cap for the gas tank and also had the fuel injectors cleaned at the dealer and "They Said The Engine Runs Perfect When It Is Hooked Up To The Fuel Injector Cleaner" but when it's hooked up to the fuel system again it acts up again.
One Thing About It IS When It's Acting Up If I Turn Off The Engine, While In Neutral And Restart It It Works Good For A Few Minutes Then Starts Acting Up Again. The engine is good, there are times it works Perfect for a few hours but Eventually it will act up.
Now that the summer is on us it's acting up even more because of using the air conditioning. It use to only act up when it would be warmed up or hot and only when there is a load on the engine, like driving around normally, but now it's even acting up when it's idling after just starting it.
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Just replace the b solenoid in my transmission last night; everything running good now, but for some reason it started doing this weird thing where if I come to a complete stop at a red light, then ease into the throttle, it will start surging,bucking. If I give it a little more gas on the pedal it will smooth out though. It only does it if u ease into the throttle after a complete or near complete stop. What's going on?
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I have a 6.7 diesel extcab longbed 4wd with the 3.31 rearend. I have been experiencing a surge primarily told by the boost gauge when using the cruise control unloaded and either or both going up a steady climb in elevation or headwind. It does not surge if I shift down to 5th. Does not occur pulling a load. Still occurs in manual mode and tow-haul mode. Does not occur if your controlling throttle with your foot. I find that it happens at speed of 65-70. It will boost to about 10 pounds then fall to about 3 and will continue this until maybe a hill or change in direction. It does not occur with a tail wind. I took it to the dealer today and ford had a new flash for the pcm and the tcm. Hoping that this would fix it but I don't believe it did.
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I'm getting some light surging while under acceleration. None at idle or once in overdrive. I cleaned out by exhaust back pressure although it wasn't really that dirty. Thinking about replacing the sensor anyway but it is a little pricy to just buy for no reason. Should I look for anything else? And where I'd the best place to get one? I've seen the 20 amazon ones or over 100 at the parts store.
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Went out this morning - which was one of the first times we've dropped to freezing since I've had the R32. Car started fine - but idling was rough - almost felt like it was surging. Rev'd it a few times, no change. Meanwhile the tach malfunction light appeared. I turned it off and then restarted. No tach light and it was idling normally.
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I have a 2003 toyota tacoma 4x4 with the 3.4l engine. Recently I have noticed that while accelerating I am losing power. I first noticed it would surge while going slowly uphill and since it has started happening all the time. I especially notice a serious dip in power during freeway acceleration at around 3000 rpm. The truck has 100000 miles on it. I have changed the plugs, run injector cleaner (the stuff you buy at the gas station), cleaned the throttle body, changed the air filter, and cleaned the mass airflow sensor. I have played a little with the throttle position sensor and that seems to have some affect on the timing of the surge but it is hard to tell. Of course toyota doesn't service the TPS for that year but rather try to sell you a new throttle body $1100.00!!! Could this be the catalytic converter or maybe a faulty injector? Also, I have not changed the timing belt yet.
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I replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and the readings on my sct programmer didn't change at all so I don't want to keep blindly throwing money at it if one of you has experienced this and found a cure. The interesting thing is it never throws a code or check engine light or anything according to my sct. Doesn't even show that the egr valve is unplugged. I have read that it could be a bad turbo, vgt solenoid, icp, throttle positioning sensor, or a couple other things.
It feels like I'm the front car in a bump draft in cup racing when I'm at a steady speed. The truck has arp head studs, new style egr cooler with the tubes, coolant filtration, new oil cooler, new ficm, blue spring, all filters have been changed in the last month.
2004 powerstroke surge/ rapid idle - YouTube ...
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I have a 2007 f350 6.0, just replaced the oil pressure sensor in January, now, my truck is surging like crazy! I heard it could be the ICP sensor, how easy is this to change? And where do I find it if this is the problem!
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I have a '01 7.3 Excursion 2WD. 220,000 miles. It has a 4" exhaust, K&N filter and Edge Reprogrammer set on emission illegal. It gets the best fuel economy and moves out very well for 8000 lbs. Recently, I started to feel a surge while making light throttle acceleration. For example, round a corner at 35 and try to gently resume the 45 Speed limit. It begins to accelerate and then cuts out or surges, sometimes several times. If I lay into it, it responds fine. I have serviced the air filter, the fuel filter, use synthetic Amsoil. I did notice a slight improvement after the service. Less frequent cutting out or surging. I also was in an area where Bio diesel is readily available. I added almost a full tank of B10 Bio and it seemed to work. Changed the fuel filter just after.
It has been cold for NC. This morning it was +14 when I started the truck. It seemed to finally catch on maybe 2 cylinders with lots o' white/ blue smoke. It cleared out in a few minutes and seemed to be hitting on all 8, or at least 7. Once it warmed up, it's fine. But I had the codes p0672, p0674, p0676, p0678. My question is: Is there a common thread in the fact that it appears that I lost 4 glow plugs on the same bank?
One arm chair quarter back's response to the surging, is that the under valve cover injector wiring harness may be breaking down, especially since the truck has 220,000 and the valve covers have never been off. I have a fresh turbo with the good wheel sitting ready. I have just been too lazy to swap it out. Would a fresh set of injectors be a wise choice, when I swap over?
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