Happened Friday as I was pulling into the garage. Tried to re-start, would turn over, chugged a bit and back off it went. Had it towed Sat morning. Haven't heard anything back yet...cant be battery, had juice...just 4900 miles on her.
View 9 RepliesThe car will start and run for about 10 seconds and stall. The engine has been completely rebuilt 20k miles ago. The timing is perfect and the car makes 190psi on every cylinder
I should point out that it is NOT the immobilizer. it has been checked over and over and verified to not be the immobilizer. Here is everything that has been done.
- New fuel pump
- fuel filter
- fuel pump relay
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel injectors
- fuel pressure has been verified
- spark plugs
- ignition coils
- crankshaft position sensor
- cam position sensor
- MAF sensor
- throttle body
- CU has been tried in another Jetta. worked fine
- gauge cluster worked fine in other Jetta as well.
- brand new battery
- alternator checked and passed
- grounds checked, all fine
The car has been scanned with VCDS. Here are the results:
6 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
Here is a video of what the car is doing.
I am able to rev the engine but it dies quickly afterwards. vacuum pressure looks completely fine on the boost gauge.
My roommate has a 1.8t jetta as well so I have access to his car for trying things with.
I posted awhile back about my R not wanting to start. It will start, just not turn over right away, but it will start the first time. However, it feels like it's going to stall out because the revs don't climb very high at all (1k at best) when it usually goes just over 1k to start, then drops down to 5-600rpms.
Yesterday, after it sat in the hot sun for nearly 3 hours, it cranked but didn't start right away. It had started right up when I left my house to go to the gym, and I drove it 5 miles to the gym.
Then again, this morning, after it had been sitting outside all night, I went to start it and it just didn't sound right when it started, like maybe fuel wasn't getting to the engine.
The car has 31,500 miles on it, has had all recalls done, and the battery checked out last month. The battery was fine, so it's not the problem. I have been doing some research on this issue, and have come up with the following things to have the dealer check:
-fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-coil packs
-crank position sensor
-fuel pump fuse
-fuel filter
-injectors
-alternator
-starter motor
-crank angle sensor
-cam sensor
-check all grounds
-check fuses
And to top it off, I just drove it down the road and the sunroof randomly opened on its own. I have never had that happen before! Do you think the two are related at all? I'm just wanting to make sure what to tell the dealer when I drop it off later this afternoon. I ran a vag-com scan last night and there were no electrical or engine fault codes found, so I don't know what is up with it.
Is this a warm stall issue and if so what is the actual solution to it ?
- Car is warm it will stall out at times after start . Giving it some gas will save it from stalling
- When dead cold it will have a very sluggish start
New plugs and coils. New fuel pump fuel filter & regulator . New crank sensor . Throttle body cleaned as well as maf. evap leaks all sealed up too. battery is good too
Very frustrating. Only solution would be to leave it at a shop for at least two hours so they could do live scans. But I'd rather not pay two hours of labor for nothing.
[URL] ....
My wife drove the car to work, and it ran good. She got a check engine light, but it was not on when I got home from work. I started the car and it idled fine for a couple of minutes and then it stalled. I check the codes and there was nothing locked in. There was a pending coding P0321. I am not sure what a pending code is, but I assume not enough to trigger the check engine light.
After work each night this week I tried troubleshooting but I have not gotten anything accomplished. Each night the car would start fine but if I turned it off it would not start until many tries if at all. It turns over strong but won't start. I drove it around the neighborhood today and it stalled and wouldn't restart.
The fuel pump primes. When the car won't start the fuel pump relay clicks constantly. Is this normal? I replaced the fuel filter because it has been 50k miles. Is the crank shaft sensor the problem? I hate to throw money at parts that aren't the problem when I can't get a code to trip the check engine light.
It happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
Having problems with start up? It feels like the engine wants to stall when I start it and as if the flywheel is so heavy. It also like jerks the car. You can clearly tell it isn't a smooth start up. Maybe the starter?
View 10 RepliesI have a Renault Scenic of 2001 with a 1.4 petrol engine (hope you've heard of scenic before) that stall on start every time and i need to push the gas pedal a few times to get it start. That happens every time my car stays more then 20 minutes off, while surprisingly mornings starts faster than usual (that is without stalling) and keeps the idle high for several minutes (even in summer). Don't know if this is related but I also get vacuum in the gas tank (i guess) as it stops the fuel pump when refilling every 5 seconds.
View 3 RepliesMy 96 2dr. Blazer with 121,000 on it . It will randomly not start. Come back next day starts and runs fine. It will randomly Stall (usually at lower RPM) it may start back up or not .If it dosen't start, it will start up 2 hours later, like nothing happened.
Fuel press. reads 58-62 lbs. running or with k.o.e.o., Even when it won't start. It holds press. for 2 min. c.e.l. never comes on when car won't start. c.e.l. would come on at close to red line and would be "left bank rich" Dont think it's crank or cam sensor cause their are no codes? Gonna check coil and ICM .
Checked for bad connectors at ecu, and everywhere, pulled, giggled on harness at ign. switch,plugs on drivers side under hood.Pump coming on even when car doesn't start. When it dies or doesn't start it doesn't sputter, like it's not getting gas ,I think it's voltage.
Car has new fuel pump and spider installed 2 years ago, run 44K every 6mos. Car is perfect inside and out Very well maintained . I want to keep this car forever.
Why my car sometime start up really bad and even stall when the RPM drops down to 0.... This usually happens on a cold start up. What I should do?
View 4 RepliesMy car was driving good when i had an accident just the fender and door was hit, but i loved the car in the body shop for 1 1/2 years now i went to pick it up and the battery is low, the gas engine start and stall in 3 or 4 seconds . Can i tow the car with the wheels on the ground and been pressing the brakes a little to re charge the battery, 2007 prius 120000 miles.
View 7 RepliesMy Mazda MPV will stall at slow speeds, such as if I am turning a corner or slowing down at a stoplight. Sometimes it starts back up once I put it into park, but other times it takes a few minutes of trying/resting before it will start up. One day, I am afraid it won't start up at all again. I just got new spark plugs and recently got a new mass airflow thingy put in. Check engine light does not come on for this.
View 2 RepliesGot Tiguan 2011 46000 miles on it. Just serviced intermittent no start and occasional stall after start.
Dealer replaced High pressure fuel pump and fuel pump control module. So far so good.
Seams like common issue.
What's wrong with my 98 ranger. automatic trans, rebuilt last year. over the summer i've replaced the battery and the alternator. oh, the radiator too, though why that would matter i don't know. believe it's the 4 cylinder, 2 wheel drive.
without any rhyme or obvious reason, sometimes it won't start. always after driving somewhere then parking. like after i go get groceries then go to return home. sometimes when i'm parking it'll stall out too.
electronics and ac come on when i turn the key, but no mechanical sounds at all. headlights aren't dimmed when i turn the key or anything. no clicks, no starter trying to rev, nothing. check engine light is not on. recently got it inspected (state inspection) and had the battery tested during an oil change at walmart. no problems found.
i discovered over the weekend that if i shift it into neutral and roll it a foot, come to a full stop, return to park, and try to start it, it works like nothing is wrong.
I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
As the title says, when I start the engine cold I get a slight puttering and drop in RPMs followed by the engine revving itself to about 1100 for a few seconds and then normalizing at 600. It has only actually stalled out a few times. This does not happen once the engine is near operating temperature.
Now, I did not notice this issue prior to doing some maintenance on the vehicle (radiator replacement and transmission service) and I've read that this can be caused by a faulty coolant sensor. Possible?
Battery is new.
Also, when I say cold start I mean summer temps here in Michigan. So it's happening anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees F.
Just having a bit of an issue here, my fuse box cables are getting pretty hot and I don't know why. I replaced the fuse box itself and replaced the cable that goes from the alternator to the fuse box and its still getting hot. It only gets hot after I drive the car. Not sure if it's normal.
Before changing the fuse box and cable, the car's lights would flicker and my car would stall out here and there, also at times when I powered off the car the radio will turn off and turn right back and the clock will reset to 12:00. So I did some research and someone told me to change the fuse box and the cable that goes to the alternator. Did that and it fixed the issue, but the cables are still getting hot....
This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
View 1 RepliesThe 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
View 1 RepliesI have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
View 2 Replies