I have a slow leak in one of my tires. Loses maybe 1 PSI per day. I've taken the tire off, washed it, examined it closely, used dishwashing soap (to look for bubbles) and cannot find the leak. Even paid close attention to the valve.
So now I'm thinking of using of those cans of sealant, but I'm afraid of damaging the tire pressure sensor.
FWIW, the tires have about 13K miles on them.
A few months ago I developed a slow leak in my drivers front tire. I took it to a local tire shop and they told me small sections of paint on the inner part of the rim that sits on the bead of the tire was corroding and flaking off causing a small air leak. They sanded it down and resealed the paint and it stopped the leak. I asked them if it happened to this rim, could it happen to all of my rims? They couldn't answer that, but now I think I know the answer. 2 of my other wheels now are losing air and I bet it's the same problem. Is there a recall of some kind? Dealer says since my car is out of warranty, they can't do anything.
View 8 RepliesI have a 04" GLI and I was thinking about doing a coolant flush. Looks like I have a slow leak. I was wondering where should I look in order to stop the leak. Put some coolant in about a month ago and now the coolant light is back on. Every morning when I pull out of my driveway there is a small leak under the driver side of my car. Is this an easy fix? If I do decide to do the coolant flush myself what is the recommended coolant replacement?
View 4 RepliesOn my 1.8t jetta she is leaking coolant slowly. Just started when it got cold out. It is dripping down the oil pan right down the center. It is falling off the oil drain plug. Was reading that it could be the water pump leaking but then it wouldn't be in the center of the pan. Got it jacked up now so here are some pics.
View 6 RepliesWe have a 2003 Subaru Legacy named Penny. Lately she's been "thumping" when we make slow tight turns -- usually when pulling into or out of a parking spot. This is less of a noise, more of a sensation. Thumping and bumping as if the front tires are flat, but that's not the case. To complicate matters, it doesn't seem to happen first thing in the morning. Starts showing up after a drive of 30 - 40 minutes and continues to get worse the longer we drive throughout the day. Driving straight is fine, less sharp turns also fine. Mechanic guessed axle and replaced both front axles last week. But the problem persists. We are independent musicians, traveling often, and NEED this car to drive reliably!
View 9 RepliesOur 98 Saab's A/C seems to have a slow leak. Do-it-yourself, stop-leak, A/C recharges available at stores like Advance and NAPA Auto?
View 1 RepliesVan has 144k miles on it. It's been well maintained (see my other posts). I have had it since new (7 miles). The LIM was done preventively at about 75k miles (5 years ago).
Two to three years ago it started using/leaking etc coolant at a very slow rate. I would estimate somewhere in the 8-10 fl oz per 3-4 month range. As time has gone on it has been progressively using more. Now it is about 12-14 fl oz in about a month or 6 weeks. My "low coolant" indicator came on the other night. It had been a while since I added any coolant mix. 3-4 months anyway. It took about 1/2 gallon (US). There has been no "real" visible leak,up to now. I noticed yesterday when I was under it doing an oil change, that there was a "film" on the bottom of the trans pan. I followed the trail as best I could and it led me to the rear of the engine near the drivers front wheel. It was a small drop of coolant. (I tasted it). Don't try this at home... From the top of the engine looking in, I followed the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing "pipe". It is very difficult to see in there. I took a few pix. [URL] ....
It looks like there is a little pool of coolant sitting near or under the thermostat housing that pools on top of where the transaxle bell housing meets the engine block. It's very hard to to see in the pix. Some of what looks to be damp, is actually shadow. This pool I believe runs down the back of the engine/trans, and then is blown on top the trans pan and undercarriage.
The van runs great, I want to keep it for the next 9 years. There is no coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Unless the fix is fairly easy, the leak is still small enough that I am not going to bother with it until it becomes a large leak. The car runs cool even in the hot summer pulling a load. The only issue is the leak and that I have to add coolant every once in a while.
Ive been losing 20psi every week for the past month and I've finally had some time to fix it. I figured a leak that small would best be fixed with some slime. But can we use slime with tpms? If not, I guess i'll just have to open up the hole and plug it up.
View 16 RepliesA while ago I got my oil changed at a Midas location and it was not for a couple months later when I got my oil changed again that Midas cross threaded the oil plug. So now I've got a slow leak and I was told that I'm going to have to replace the oil pan the next time I get an oil change.
View 11 RepliesMy wife has a 2006 Touareg V6.
Noticed a coolant leak a week ago, refilled with coolant, and as of today the coolant warning has not come back, so whatever it is must be a very slow leak. Today I took the opportunity with the unseasonable warmth in Chicagoland to investigate.
Got the T-reg up on jacks and belly pan removed, ran the engine while inspecting the bay, didn't see anything.
After I shut the engine off, however, I noticed a small but somewhat steady dripping coming from roughly the middle of the front of the engine block.
Pulled the plastic cover off one of the pulleys, part # reads: 022 121 341. I couldn't find a match anywhere online, but I got tons of results for 022 121 011, which is the water pump.
I found oil leaking out of my audi (model above) this morning. it runs great, but is leaving a small puddle every time I park. I looked underneath and there is oil collected in many places. Its not pouring but slow drip when the engine is hot. More to the front of the car. Its not happening at the washer to the crank to drain oil.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2015 sonata SE with the stock 16 inch kumho summer tires. One of the tires just developed a leak, a slow one, after 5 days psi drops from 34 to 28. I am guessing I ran over a nail? or maybe valve leak? I don't recall driving over a pothole or anything that would otherwise damage the tire or rims.
Now suppose it is a nail, is it dangerous to keep it in there? will it deteriorate the rubber even more? Or is it one of those things i can leave in there, and just keep pumping air every few days?
Just wondering is it worth it to bring it to the tire shop and have the check for where the leak is and have them patch it.
I have 3750 miles on my tires, when should i get it rotated and/or replaced? How does one replace tire since there is a TPMS system? is it easy to do without dealership?
My son has a 2007 sonata v6, daughter has one too. Both have about 130K miles, and both developed slow coolant drip leaks. I took off both hoses on both cars, cleaned the crud from the housings and replaced with new hoses and clamps. Problems solved in daughter's car, not so in sons car. I note that it looks like the area below the thermostat housing is wet - and thought that was from the crud/hose situation. But he is still losing coolant, even more now that its getting colder at night, and I's sure its not the hose connection anymore.
The car will generally NOT leak when hot, only as/when it cools off. I.e. puddle in the morning situation.
Looking at the diagrams, it looks like that "housing" is really a connection to the crossover pipe, heater hoses, other stuff (throttle body heat) and also contains what looks like a temp sensor.
I suppose any of these are possible, but my first thought was either a leaky temp sensor (or possibly loose) or something more serious like a cracked housing, leaking o-ring, gasket etc.
I have a '98 Volvo V70 that has a slow leak in the cooling system. I have brought it to my indie Volvo mechanic several times and they keep trying new things - they've replaced the thermostat, all the hoses, overflow tank, and this last time used Stop Leak in case I have a bad head gasket. I'm 4 visits and $1600 into this repair, and it's still leaking. Now they're saying it must be the head gasket and it will be $3000 to fix. What do I do???? How do I know it will fix the car and when do I ask for my money back? When do guarantees come into play? Is the car worth it? It's worth nothing with a leak, so I'm stuck in this corner.
View 7 RepliesWill start with the back story, i have a 2007 G6 V6 that had a slow leak in the radiator. I kept it full and it only went higher than normal once but i noticed it right away and didn't let the needle peg at hot so I've kept it full, checking it every time I went somewhere. the other day on my way to work the needle pegged at hot and the temp light came on so i pulled over right away and shut the car off and let it cool for an hour and added some more coolant. started it up again and the temp stayed normal for a minute so i tried to get it back to the house when the needle pegged, i lost power and the check engine light came on. i stopped the car and called a tow and while waiting on the tow truck my battery died and all i had running was the hazards. the only thing I noticed was the leak in the radiator had gotten worse.
After I got it home and let it sit for 5-6 hours i got a jump from my neighbor and I noticed I wasn't getting any circulation, the reservoir was still full, the check engine light came on and stayed on, and within a minute or two the temp was rising fast so i shut it off and haven't touched it since except to check the oil which looks, smells, and feels fine and is at the proper level and didn't see any oil floating around the overflow tank. and while the car was hot I didn't see any smoke or steam coming from anywhere aside from the leak in the radiator, the water pump pulley was spinning fine, no whining or whirring sounds. i did notice that the plastic piece where the metal overflow line attaches to the engine was badly cracked but wasn't leaking.
I'm thinking maybe the water pump went out and/or the thermostat is stuck closed and caused the overheating issue. as far as the check engine light goes, could that cracked plastic piece cause the check engine light to stay on?not sure if there's a sensor involved in that or not. or could it be the low coolant sensor causing it as the block has no coolant in it?
I running into a bit of a strange tire problem. I recently had the tires replaced on my 17" wheels. I ordered the tires online and had them installed by a local garage. Ever since then, I have been having what appears to be an intermittent leak from my left front tire. I'd typically fill the tire to 42psi in the morning and, by the next morning, discover it to be around 34-35psi. My commute each day is approximately 100 miles round-trip. This is very repeatable.
I have been back to the mechanic. He removed the wheel and very carefully examined the valve stem, rim-tire bead, sidewalls, and treads for any leaking using the soapy water method. We couldn't find anything.
1) It's a very slow leak.
2) I am under Power Train Warranty for another year (Certified Pre-Owned).
3) My friend is a mechanic who will fix it for free as long as I buy the Water Pump.
But I worry Toyota is going to give me a hard time and say it's something else not covered by warranty or say it's not you water pump but the radiator, which shows no sign of leakage and is not covered by warranty.
My friend showed me the bolts that were corroded white on the pump with a mirror and flash light. I buy the water pump and he installs it for free or go to a Toyo dealer where you don't know what to expect?
2006 Camry LE 4 Cylinder, 48,000 miles---I know Toyota makes junk Water Pumps.
I have a 2006 F-150 XL with the 4.2 V6, auto that has a slow coolant leak that I cannot find.
I bought the truck this spring, 190K, drives good, but it leaks coolant. I have added probably 3 gallons of water this summer, this does not bode well for winter.
I can't see any wet spots or steam, but do smell anti-freeze occasionally from outside the cab.
I don't really want to try easter-egging the repair (replacing things that might fix it).
How to find the leak? Or should I just use some form of stop leak.
i got a screw in my tire with a slow leak. is this covered under warranty or should i have it done locally ?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 Saab 97x. It has auto-leveling air suspension. Recently, it seems to have developed a slow leak. When I drive all day, it is fine, but each morning when I go outside, the rear end is eight inches lower than it was when I parked it the night before. If I start up the car, the pump kicks in, and the rear end lifts to its proper level.
View 1 RepliesThe a/c compressor is the nearest thing to the medium slow leak. It's up against the left upper side of the oil pan, near the timing belt cover. It appears red on the oil pan but more yellow color on the ground. There are no power steering hoses and the pwr steering pump is further back (and tho a bit wet, it's not leaking) I drove 6-8 mile this morning w no a/c to see if it would still leak...and it did. The power steering resevoir doesn't seem to be going down. Whata ya recon ? bad compressor ?
View 1 Replies