Picked up my MK6 GTI DSG last Saturday. I have noticed a slight shudder when braking and coming to a gentle stop. At first I thought it may be the brakes bedding in so I kept it over the weekend. By today there's still no change. Is it normal for DSG transmission stop like this? Because I have never driven DSG transmission.
View 11 RepliesWe hear a horrible metallic clunking or cracking noise - only occasionally - when coming to a gentle stop, like at a stop sign. The noise is coming from the driver side front and happens more often when the car is stopping gently on a flat or slight downhill. It does not seem to happen when we stop on an uphill. It does not happen during sudden stops. A mechanic recently replaced the driver side tie-rod, thinking that would solve the problem, but it didn't. The same mechanic looked at the brakes and found no apparent problem. The sound is very loud and sounds almost like something is settling.
View 2 RepliesSo I bought my R with 9000 miles on it, and I noticed a little bit of shudder when braking. For some reason it is starting to get a little worse.....and I haven't been bagging on it. Really, warped rotors....at 9k.
View 24 RepliesI've read about transmission shift problems between certain gears with these cars but don't know if my symptom applies. 2004, AWD with 35k miles, however mostly short stop and go driving.
When applying the brakes to come to a complete stop, there's kind of a abrupt downshift that I can even feel in the brake pedal. The car even has a last second little shake and a bit of a clunk..
Difficult to describe, so here's a short YouTube video as well. (you may have to turn up the vol to hear it)
Definitely not the transmission. Pulling the ABS/VSC/TC fuse , the car brakes normally. Skid control affects turning in curves and TC affects acceleration. So, it's ABS related..
Lexus 2004 RX330 transmission downshift when stopping - YouTube .....
I am the owner of a 1996 Toyota 4runner. Recently, when I bring the vehicle to a complete stop, the entire SUV shudders, almost lunges, forward. At times it feels like the brakes are trying to re-engage. Could really use some pointers on this issue.
View 6 RepliesDriving into work this morning, I came up to the first stop sign before I get on the "freeway" and noticed a weird vibration. As I slowed to stop I could have sworn it felt like the engine was being lugged, the same feeling you get in a manual when you try to come to a stop without using the clutch. I thought for sure the engine was going to die. The engine RPMs dropped to about 800-900 RPM and once I got to a complete stop the RPMs went back to normal.
It seemed to do this every time I came to a stop. Could my torque converter be locking up and not releasing as it supposed to causing the lugging sensation I'm getting? The truck accelerates fine and idles fine once stopped, but when slowing I get that weird vibration and maybe the lugging sensation is just in my imagination and has nothing to do with the engine.
I do have a vibration from a missing wheel weight, but that's usually felt at about 34-35 mph. In addition, I also have a bit of a brake vibration when slowing down quickly, such as when slowing quickly from 65 to turn off the highway onto my local road, but this is a completely different vibration.
I have had my ecoboost for a couple months now. Overall I am very happy with it but I have noticed a shudder recently when accelerating and when coming to a complete stop at times. I only feel it when accelerating from a stop or when stopping completely. Kind of feels like something slips. I think I recall reading about this before on the 2011 and 2012s somewhere. What is causing this and is there a fix or is it just the way these trucks are?? I can deal with it but it is kind of annoying when driving in traffic.
View 1 RepliesWhen I am stopped and remove my foot from the brake, the car shudders as it moves forward. This happens when I do not give it any throttle. The idle forward is jerky...like it pulses. It feels like when you let the clutch out too slow on a manual trans. The DSG in all it's techno-glory should be able to release it's clutch(s) smoothly one would think? It happens when I am waiting in line at a stop sign or in traffic...anytime I need to idle forward slowly. I've been driving it for less than a week...it has 320 miles and I'm keeping it under the limits for break-in (BORING). Anyway, the thought of taking it for service at this point is depressing..
View 15 Replies2001 Chevy Silverado, 2wd, 5.3 engine, 232,000 miles, front hubs with integral sensors replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Now when I brake, and just before coming to a complete stop, the ABS kicks in. Doesn't happen if I brake hard. If I let up on the brake momentarily, it stops and the rest of the stop is smooth.
Sometimes the brake and ABS lights come on, but when I had the OBD hooked up, there were no stored codes, and the brake and ABS lights go off once you turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. I suspect the problem is with the sensors for the rear wheels, but don't know where they are located.
There are no wires going to the rear wheels or the axle. Tried pulling the fuse for the ABS system, but that makes the brake and ABS lights stay on constantly.
The noise is not the usual vibrate noise that happens.
The Noise: As I brake harder to the final stop I hear a grind/bump noise. It is hard to describe. It is abrupt and quick. I don't believe it affects the braking just annoying and doesnt sound normal.
Braking down a hill and a sharp turn (in either direction) around 10mph results in a slight knock (1, not multiple). Is it normal? I have some suspension goodies to put on but i don't want to do that before getting any repairs done if necessary...
View 5 Replies2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
I have a 2010 GTI with 70K miles. At @ 40K the clutch began to exhibit sort of a slight sudder, and squeak when the car was fully warmed up, but only from starting from a stop on a steep uphill incline. The dealer could not duplicate the problem when routine maintainence was performed, At the 70K maintainence, they could duplicate the problem, and have told me that a new clutch from flywheel on is needed. The Diagnosis was $90 and could not have included any mechanical inspection. One of the Techs told me that there is a list of VIN's that VW apparently identified as having potential clutch issues. My thoughts are:
Even though the car is past the 60K powertrain warranty, the problem was brought to the dealers attention at @40K.
If the car is on the list, VW already knew there could be issues.
I feel that under the circumstances VW could be expected to cover 1/2 of the repair, since the car now has 70K.
Other questions if VW has no interest in working with me:
Can the flywheel be resurfaced? What would the approximate cost for labor to replace the clutch by an Independent garage? The car operates as usual, just with the one issue. I would like to have repair done fairly soon.
Recently leased a 2014 Nissan Sentra SL It has 800 miles on it now. Immediately I felt a slight vibration when coming to a stop. It is intermittent happens about 50% of the time. Brought it to my dealer and he said he couldn't feel the problem on the test drive, if it persists come back to him.I plan on going back to service next week. As I apply the brakes it slows down smoothly but just before coming to a complete stop is when it vibrates. Most people say my car has warped rotors causing this,My question is: How can a brand new car with 10 miles on it have warped rotors?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2016 is350. I just took off my is250 exhaust and installed it onto the 350. It is an invidia axle back paired with a tsudo midpipe. Since I have made the switch I have noticed several times after braking and coming to a complete stop within a couple seconds the exhaust "pops" usually 1 time and it is fairly loud. This did not happen on the 250. What is concerning to me is that it doesn't sound like normal exhaust popping/gurgling when slowing down or downshifting it is more of a sudden loud single pop after coming to a stop.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonata with 4,000 miles. Recently, I have noticed that when coming to a stop, I hear a light thump noise in the center console area near the gear shift lever. If I put my hand on the gear shifter, I can feel it move ever so slightly at the time of the noise. The noise is very repeatable. If I take my foot off the brake and start rolling and then I reapply the brake (either softly or hard) it will make the thump noise. It is not very loud and can be drowned out with loud music, but if listening to news, it is very noticeable and annoying in city traffic, where stops are very frequent. I put the car up on ramps and looked underneath and did not see anything noticeable. It will probably require the center console between the seats to be removed.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2008 ford f150 4.7 liter 4x2 & the problem I am having is when coming to a stop when I accelerate there is a slight shimmy in back end or could be described as a vibration for just a few seconds and then you don't feel it anymore until you come to a stop & restart. Once you have pulled off it will not do it anymore out on road. I checked fluid & it is not low in back end. Transmission shifts good so what could cause this.
View 2 RepliesI have been enjoying my PP GTI from the time I picked it up a month ago but have recently started noticing a noise that comes from the rear suspension AFTER braking to a stop. Basically, whenever I come to a complete stop and the car SETTLES (not while its breaking, but after a split second after it comes to a stop) on the rear suspension, I get a very noticeable clunk. This also does not just happen with hard stops from speed, it happens also when i creep forward and stop suddenly and the car's rear end settles.
I have thought about what it could be and I have come to two potential conclusions: 1) Break slap caused by the pad settling back into the holder in the caliper but it seems like its making too much noise to be just that. 2) This is related to the dreaded rear suspension noise issues that our friends in Europe have experienced. Relating to number 2, the car does seem abnormally loud when going over rough roads here in Detroit. It doesn't necessarily clunk or rattle but you can definitely hear the shocks working. This seems abnormal to me being a brand new car (my first in fact) which is why I am afraid it could be the shocks/top-mounts.
I get weird squeaking noises coming from the front of the car. It happens when the front dips during braking at a stop. Happens when I turn. Happens when I go over bumps. What it could be? Car has 150,000 miles and suspension is stock.
View 2 RepliesWhen pulling away casually in 1st from a stop, I hear a slight chatter noise. Had this since before the tune (stage 1). Almost like the sound a diesel makes at idle but only lasts a second or two. To the best of my knowledge it is an OEM clutch. Had 9k miles when I bought it, now has 25k.
View 24 RepliesI got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
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