Golf/GTI VI :: Screeching / Metal On Metal Noise When Engaging Clutch?
May 13, 2013
For the past few months, pretty consistently, whenever I engage the clutch from full stop into first gear (it does it when starting in second gear too; and reverse) there is a pretty obnoxious and loud screeching noise that I would liken to a subway/train braking or just metal on metal grinding situation. When I took the car in to Douglas for an oil change and APR Stg 1 flash, they told me it's just the brakes being cold, etc. After driving the car some more, I really doubt that it's the brakes and I can reproduce this regularly by slowly releasing the clutch and get the noise usually just before the gear engages.
That car has just over 16K on the clock and has never been abused. The clutch pedal feels fine and there is no issue shifting into any of the gears other than the noise. No mods other than the APR Stage 1.
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I commute 180 miles a day, 6 days a week. I noticed metal on metal grinding noise(more noticeable) at high speed above 75mph especially on asphalt road. I'm sure noise is there at low speed but not enough to notice. My car has 50,000 miles. Tires? Electric motor?
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I got some coilovers installed last night, they are ksports. i have them on fairly low height as of now but i have noticed every time I hit bumps, I hear a kthunk (metal hitting metal noise) from my front driver side. is it from the coilover nuts itself or something wrong with my control arm? the sound ONLY comes from the front DRIVER side.
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What we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?
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I recently worked on a 2006 with 140K miles that presented with the following symptoms:
The hybrid battery was at 1 bar; the ICE would not start; the car was in Ready, but there were no codes. As I let it roll off the flatbed wrecker in Neutral, it felt lumpy. If you have ever pushed a car (or run out of gas in one) with a manual transmission that was in a high gear, engine off, it felt just like that.
I popped the hood and could see that the engine crank was turning while the car was being pushed in Neutral. What else turns with the wheels? MG2, or more specifically, the MG2 ring gear. What is the only way that the wheels could turn the ICE crank? The planetary carrier pinions were locked to the ring gear.
Surprisingly, while I was looking at things, it did manage to start the ICE pushing it around must have freed the carrier pinions, so I let it charge the hybrid battery. It was basically the worst metal-to-metal noise that I have ever heard! I pulled the drain plug and saw about a teaspoonful of large metal chips on the magnet. The fluid condition itself was very good, not the black factory fill that I am used to seeing come out.
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My Elantra's HVAC fan has always been a quiet thing, even on 3.....we won't mention level 4 and the fact it sounds like a 747 at takeoff.
I kid you not, the very evening I hit 60,000 miles and the general warranty expired, the blower motor started making noise like it was throwing a bearing and definitely sounded like some light metal-on-metal rubbing. After I became irritated at this, the noise went away and didn't come back until just a few weeks ago. I could make it stop by smacking on the bottom of the fan assembly a few times but I want a more permanent solution.
Tonight I dropped the blower out which was stupid easy except for the fact you're upside down in the dark with your head in a hole. But three screws and an electrical connector later, I dropped the assembly to find no serviceable components. I mentioned this to friend of mine who's into Volvos suggested spraying some lithium grease on the hub of the blower and letting it run long enough to quiet it down. I'll do this over the next few days and report back but part of me thinks a new blower may be in my future.
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I have a base v6. When I turn the steering wheel (for example, to make a left turn), it sounds like there is metal-on-metal rubbing. The wheel is not extended (turned all the way til it stops)...
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I have an '02 Taurus. For the last year or so it has intermittently produced a metal on metal grinding noise while failing to start up. I'm told this is due to teeth being missing on the flywheel between the starter and the transmission. It's taken as many as six tries to get the car going. But the car has always started in the end.
My questions are: Is the problem flywheel worth replacing at this point at this price? Is it likely to fail totally any time soon?
Also, might the March '09 replacement starter be implicated?
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I have intermittent metal on metal grinding noise. Seems to happen when I am at highway speed. Seems to go away when I put it on 4 wheel drive or slow way down. On one occasion though, the grinding noise did not stop even after putting on 4 wheel drive - had to stop completely before it went away (did not come back after I drove off again). Diagnostics so far....
Unhooked the vacuum lines on passenger side actuator and hooked up vacuum gauge. Vacuum held at 20 psi and drops and raises slightly as the truck is being revved. Takes about 10 seconds for vacuum to drop to zero once truck is stopped. Putting it on 4 wheel drive drops it to zero immediately. Exact same scenario on the passenger side.
This leads me to believe my IWE solenoid is ok. So also my check valves. Next opportunity I get, I will raise one wheel, remove the vacuum line on that wheel and apply vacuum with my pump. Want to see if it will turn my half shaft.
2004 F150 FX4 ....
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My father's 1997 F150 with the 4.6 two wheel drive, has me stumped again. I have a lot of mechanic knowledge but this one has got me wondering whats going on. Here is the run down. When you are driving down the road, it rides just fine and makes no noises from 0-20 MPH, after about 25 to 35 mph it makes like a metal on metal noise that is coming from the rear, and forces the truck to slow down, when you try to accelerate through this problem it has a bad bang and it wont allow you to speed up anymore, it does not seem like a brake issue (but I could be wrong) since it does not actually pull to one side or the other.
It seems like an equal force trying to stop the truck. I have heard rear ends that were going out and they make clunk noises or whirring noises etc, but its still some what driveable. I have checked the rear end oil and it does have oil in it, and its probably about an inch from the full level (but that shouldnt cause this issue im sure). My father wants a definite answer before we start tearing this thing apart to try and fix it. Since its mostly used to take trash off, and also get the kids down the dirt road to the bus stop.
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I picked my R up three weeks ago tomorrow. I took it in this morning because there has been brake noise from day one. The noise was a scraping, metal on metal sound that diminished a fair amount when the brakes were warm. I only got a very brief conversation with the service agent at the dealership this afternoon, and all he told me is that they had to order in new brakes. I don't know if it's just pads, or calipers or rotors or the whole deal! I'll get the whole scoop tomorrow.
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When driving in my parking garage, I can hear a slight metal on metal noise. An extreme example would be sharpening a knife on a sharpener, its not as loud or predominate.
-I've checked the lugs, they are secure.
Car has springs and spacers.
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I have a 2011 Prius with about 32K miles on it. I've been hearing light metal on metal grinding noise for a few days now. So I decided to take it to a stealership and they told me my ceramic pads and brake rotors both need to be replaced for all 4 wheels. I thought Prius brakes don't need to be replaced for 100K miles.
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My 98 CR-V is now making a metal on metal ticking noise. The noise only occurs when the car is in motion. The noise seems to occur about every two revolutions of the wheels when moving slowly; I can't determine if the ratio holds true at higher speeds. The noise seems more prevalent when standing on the car's passenger side, but not significantly. The car has 225K miles.
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My 2009 Accord is making a metal on metal noise when I drive. It's not all the time, probably about 1/3 of the time or so, and only when I'm accelerating/cruising, not braking. It's very loud, and when I took it to a mechanic they just took it for a ride, didn't hear anything, and told me to come back when it's more consistent. What it could be? I'm nervous even taking it out now.
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I have a 2012 Elantra with 21000 miles on it. It runs well but in the last month or so it has started to make a strange noise when first accelerating. I would describe the noise as touching a fork to a metal fan...kind a "zzziiiinnnkkkk" sound, I guess. It only happens when the car has been sitting for a while and only on the first acceleration, usually in first, second, and third gear after which it immediately goes away and doesn't happen again until the next time we drive it. It seems like it would be related to the transmission except the sound is too tinny for it to be the gears. It sounds more like sheet metal making that sound. I took it to the dealer but they said they couldn't make it make the sound, which is crazy because it does it EVERY time we drive it.
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I ease off the brake and i hear this rattle coming from my car, like metal on metal. But really high pitched like something got loose or something. Tick tick tick tick. So i give it gas and it goes away. Its only there if i brake and release the brake...So i get home and everything is normal. I go outside and move my car and there's the weird rattle again ...
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This morning on my way to work, pulling into the parking lot around 20mph. I hear a metal on metal grinding noise. (almost to the sound of a muffler dragging on the ground type noise). Then that disappears for a bit, hear a loud metal clunk then some high pitched sound. All within say 30 seconds. Definitely coming from the back, but can not tell from which side.
Things I've checked in the parking lot:
Nothing hanging low, exhaust seems in-tact
It doesn't look like the brake shields behind the rotors are bent or touching
Sounds still happening if on or off brakes , on or off throttle.
It seemed to happen only at lower speeds. Disappeared once I got up to 50mph
Just took it out for a drive, that loud metal clunk happened when I put it into reverse, drove around, no other sounds. I just don't have a warm fuzzy feeling that this will just disappear.
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I hear a metal on metal scraping/screeching sound with the windows down and only when i drive by guard rails and other stuff sound reflects off of. I saw the traveling hub zerk thread and that's what made me think of it. I've zerked every fitting I've seen, but this ones new to me. Problem is I can't even tell witch wheel (if any) it's coming from. It's consistent with speed.
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Solara 4 cyl. auto. transmission. I recently had the head replaced. Now it is making a metal on metal sound near the drivers side of the engine. It makes the sound during idle, when I change gears, and the sound increases when I rev the engine. What could it be?
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