So yesterday evening I was driving home and I noticed this clicking sound like a relay clicking on and off every time my RPMs go above 3k then drop below 2500. I am at 9Kish on the OD so I am just gonna let them know at the 10K oil change. Whatever it is or does, it isn't affecting the cars drive-ability one bit.
View 4 RepliesStarted a few days ago, There is a faint whistle noise when I am open throttle around 2500rpms. It lasts for about a second and does not occur at any other time. It does not occur under gradual acceleration, or when the car is parked/in neutral and just revving. I tried searching the forums *a little* bit, but my keywords just may have not been right.
My first inkling is that it may be related to flapper, since the rpms seem right and sounds vacuum related to me. But, the unit is completely disconnected (have borla cat-back) and the hose is ziptied, so is this possible? I will try to get a video of the noise later today.
I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
Yesterday I was driving my R spiritedly (the usual...). I accelerated up close to redline and was just about to shift up when something happened in front of me (I forget what, lane change, something like that) so I let the gas pedal snap back up. I didn't touch the brake pedal at all.
What surprised me was the tach fell off almost like the car was dead. My expectation is that momentum and the car being in gear would cause the RPMs to decay slowly, just as my speed decayed.
Do you think the DSG plays a role here? Did it engage the clutch because of the 'panic' lift of the throttle? It didn't put me in an unsafe condition or anything, it just surprised me as I'd not seen it do that before.
I have a 24v GLI with the O2M 6-speed trans. This morning while leaving for work I accidently let the clutch out while in gear and my e-brake still on. Heard a really loud bang and the engine didn't stall out (which it should have). Now I have no engagement in any gear and there is a very loud clicking that changes with RPMs. Did I blow the CV joint, or is this something much worse (blown diff, destroyed clutch, etc.)??? I'm border-line freaking out!
View 9 RepliesSound shown in video. This is when vehicle is idle, as rpm's change the sound becomes more frequent. Check engine came on about a week or two ago, not sure if its related (haven't gotten the chance to get it read yet).
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I drive a 2005 Kia Rio with 48,000 miles. Every once in awhile (particularly after a bit of driving when everything is warmed up) the RPM won't go past 2,500. I'll put it in 1st gear, accelerate till 2,500, but as soon as it gets there, the engine gets groggy, the car slows down, and I have to quickly switch to 2nd and repeat the cycle on every gear. Flooring it makes it worse.
Obviously the fastest I can possibly go with this happening is about 50mph on 5th (just below 2,500). This has happened three times and it has fixed itself every time so far.
A possible clue may be that the check engine light frequently comes on, and its always the same culprit: this "flow meter" sensor. I've had it replaced three times now, but it still always trips the engine light. I now just ignore the check engine light.
The son inlaw just bought a 86 4runner. It's been beat pretty good but I know Toys are good for it. My question is, it rev's just fine in every gear but 5th. Going down a flat highway and in 5th it won't rev over 2500 no matter how much gas ya give it. It has a 22re and 31-9.50's under it. My daughter had a 86 p/u with a 22r (I believe) and 33-10.50's and it had no problem hitting 90. Is there a limiter on these things? Thought i'd ask before chasing vac lines.
View 2 RepliesMy VR6 is making a ticking sound when i accelerate, between 2800-3100, then it dies down a little and then gets loudest at about 3600-4000. The noise stops at exactly 4000rpms every time. Here is a sound clip of what the noise sounds like... you can hear it best in the last 15 seconds or so in the video. Maybe its the timing chains...
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I have a 1998 Ford Escort which I drove about 450 miles in frigid weather over about 8 hours in mid January. After arriving at my neighborhood and getting off the expressway, I couldn't get the idle on the car (manual transmission) to go below 2500rpm's. Further, upon taking off, the car was trying to stall, and I was forced to feather the clutch through town driving and keep the throttle up so it wouldn't stall, even with the clutch in. The weather at the time was about -7 degrees (f). The next day the weather continued, and thee car would start, jump to the same idle for 10 seconds, then drop suddenly to 500rpm, then stall out. I wrote the car off, cleaned it out over the next week, and then I tried to run the radio while doing so last weekend. I got the car to start, and run normally. I think it may be a computer issue, but it may also be the temperatures. The car has 207,000 miles on it.
View 3 RepliesEngine runs fine while in park but if put into drive rpm's won't get above 2500 then begins to choke.
-Fuel filter changed
-no vacuum leaks
-disconnected cat
-good spark
My 2008 Accent started to stutter between 1500 and 2500 rpms. Now the check engine light has come on, and the engine is idling rough.
View 3 RepliesI have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
View 4 RepliesWhen I accelerate (particularly during heavy throttle) I hear a sound that sounds like a diesel engine between 2000 and 2500 rpm's. It almost sounds raspy in nature.
View 24 RepliesI've got a 2008 Subaru Outback, manual transmission. When I come to a light, I may put the car in 1st gear with the clutch depressed while I wait to proceed. Then, all by itself, the accelerator revs up to about 2500 rpm for a brief moment. Then it comes down, rests for a second and then does the same thing all over again. The only thing that will make it stop is if I put the stick in neutral and release the clutch. Any way to cure this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 Explorer XL 2 dr. It has the 4.0L OHV V6 and the 4R55E Transmission. I bought it used with 152,000 miles on the odometer. About a month after I bought it I noticed it sounded different. I looked down at the tach and the RPMs are up around 2500 with the overdrive engaged. I turned the overdrive off and nothing changed. I turned it back on and nothing changed.
That weekend I pulled the tranny pan and filter and replaced the filter and fluid. There was the normal amount of debris in the bottom of the pan but nothing major. Now when I drive it it tries to shift into overdrive but when it does the engine bogs down and the O/D off light starts flashing. I know how to do the overhaul but I wanted to get a few opinions before I start tearing into it. What could be wrong .
Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
2011 Sonata GDS. I previously purchased 19" Gen coupe wheels and never had a problem immediately. Approximately 2 months later of driving with the 19" wheels, when I got onto the highway one day, the car did a slight jerk with acceleration and the acceleration halted for a split second. Ever since that day, anytime I accelerate fast and/or reach highway speeds, the car has a delay when I hit the throttle. The car then has a "rattle" "groaning" sound that comes when the RPMs hit around 2000-2500 rpm. It will go away if I drive slow speeds/slow RPMs or shut the car off for a short amount of time. I have taken my car to the Hyundai dealer 3 times. I've had the adaptive values for the transmission and engine reset and that didn't do anything. I had a mechanic ride with me in the car to make sure they were hearing the sound and the delay in shifting and the mechanic was very shocked and had never even heard a sound like this before.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 Santa Fe that for the last week or so has been slipping/jerking at about 2500rpms (2nd and 3rd gear). This only happens after the car has been warmed up and running for 20 minutes or so. I have put it into manual and it does not do this, only when in auto.
View 2 RepliesSo I bought this 2007 used with 86K on the engine. After 2 days cats code went off and i had both replaced with brand new ones. Now my truck is making a rattling as i step on the gas at about 2500 rpms. Its sounds like metal in a can swirling around amd as i let off gas the sound stops. It happens often, also the other day in was pulling off and heard a grind for about 2 seconds then stopped never beard it again, it sounds like its coming from the rear passenger side. It sounds like a bearing. This is the noise.
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