Like the title says, brand new Golf 2.5 with 300 miles.
Randomly, I'll hear a "tick" when the windows are down just driving down the road. It sounds like a pebble hitting a tin can or exhaust pipe by of course it isn't that.
Is this a common thing? WTF is going on here? This type of problem would be impossible to reproduce for the service dept. Already took it back for one other thing and got the "oh that's normal".
I have scanned my car with no faults codes on VCDS, basic adaptation setting have been done on the gearbox and i have let it run in and adapt but im still getting this noise.
Im certain it is Dsg related, With the windows down you can hear it as i pull away in 1st gear, It does not make the noise in 2nd or any other gears. If i move the dsg shifter from P to D or from N to D even R it slightly makes the pulling off kind of sound which is my concern.
My flywheel was recently changed, Clutch packs looked healthy and the DSG fluid/filter were also changed at the same time. I have uploaded a video of the noise which is in the link below. When i took the video the car was simply left in P idling but it still made this sound intermittently like it does each time my car pulls off.
The noise can be replicated each time i pull off in D when the gear selection is in 1st. This is strange as simply left in park it was also making this noise when no gears are being engaged.
I dont have any of the previous flywheel symptoms which were vibration at idle in park and the constant rotational flywheel knocking sound that was there previously. This sound can always be replicated when i pull off.
I just recently started driving... with a second hand hyundai accent. Whenever i stop at traffic light with engine on, i hear tick tick noise (probs from engine?). it seems to be coming from front of the driver seat. When I start at the beginning, I do not hear any noise and also when i am driving i do not hear any noise or lets say nothing audible like this. Its only when i stop my car and while i am waiting, i hear this tick tick noise(very clear and audible).
Is it engine metallic part making sound when cooling down? When I start my car I see symbol for low oil pressure, batter life, check engine, but as soon the engine starts these symbol disappear which I think is normal behaviour.
Just noticed this last week when I was driving around at slow speeds with my windows down. If I turn either left or right I can hear a faint little tick or creak for a split second. I can usually make it constantly do it if I swerve back and forth at slow speeds. Sometimes it happens when I hit a little bump as well. It makes me think it has something to do with with either the suspension or maybe some part of the steering components. Little things like this on a new car just annoy me. I don't really feel like taking it in to a dealer because I can almost guarantee they will come back with the typical "couldn't replicate noise" response.
View 3 RepliesBeen driving my new GTI for a few weeks now and I love it. As a longtime VW owner I am aware that these cars like to make mysterious noises, but this one is new to me. About 1 minute after starting my new 2010 GTI and driving to the end of the block, I hear a tick/tock sound from the right rear of the car for about 15 seconds. I am familiar with the fuel pump priming sound upon opening the driver's door, but this is different. What this might be?
View 7 RepliesA mouse in my engine bay? No, not exactly... Although by the sound of it, it's possible. There is a squeak I hear when rolling at <40 miles per hour that happens randomly. It also happens when I turn my wheel from side to side while stopped.
View 9 RepliesJust started the other day. Ecuador codes at p030p035p0411. The noise only happens while accelerating past 10% throttle in any gear.
[URL] ....
Seems to only happen when I first start driving and then make a stop. While I am waiting for the light to turn green I hear a clunk tick cluck tick noise behind the passenger seat that seems to speed up and then slow down. I think that is where the fuel pump is.
View 3 RepliesI've been trying to pin point this golf ball rattle i hear from my passenger rear side of my car. I though it was the sway bar end links wearing out, so i changed those along with a pair of new rear struts as they were leaking.
I was still getting the that rattles when i drove on bumpy roads. I then though it was the sway bar bushings going out on me so i took the sway bar off to eliminate it all together.....WRONG AGAIN.
Ok, it must be something behind the bumper right? before i start pulling the bumper clips my spider man senses zoned in on the passenger rear wheel caliper that i had changed 6 months ago due to a rusted guide pin that i acquire while i was living in snow country New York.
I began rocking the caliper and to my surprise the damn thing was moving very loosely.
Time for some maintenance: Turned out that the lower guide pin on the 6 month old caliper was loose. Cleaned it up and tighten it with an Allen key applied some crc brake grease, installed new brake pads and hardware and that took care of that damn rattling.
I have been getting random bulb out errors, usually its the front side lights and today with out turning on the lights I had rear parking light...thing is I get out of the car to check and they are lit? Faulty bulbs? stock tails and side markers but do have a bi xenon retro in the headlights using the usp hid kit in the projectors.
View 3 RepliesI am getting random misfires on cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Mostly on 6, less on 5, and even less on 4. Cylinders 1-2-3 show ZERO misfires. I am using vag-com to monitor these. Mostly doing it on idle, cruise seems fine but occasionally when shifting I feel it when engaging the next gear. It doesn't buck but I feel a little hesitation. Cruising and accelerating I do not feel it. Its very strange. A couple times during extended idling I have even gotten a flashing CEL. Fuel mileage has been pretty bad ever since I got the car in December. Average tank gets me 250-270.
I tried swapping coils with 123, and the problem stayed on 456. Coils are all new since I got the car. Plugs are fairly new (under 5K) and I pulled a couple to check, they looked fine and gap was about .028. I might try a new set but my gut is telling me the problem is some where else. I would like to verify/test grounds but I don't know where the harness grounds out.
I also want to get a vacuum gauge on the FPR, or check fuel pressure at idle. I replaced one cracked vacuum line, i am thinning there might be others since there seems to be miles of vacuum line on MK4's. Also have a new fuel filter to install, mine appears to be OEM and the car has 97K.
My car sits with 45,000 kms on the clock. Had it stock for the first 5k kms and then went stage 1 w/dp and intake. Have been beating the ever living piss out of this car since, and more so since stage 2 got revised again. At about 30k kms I started to develop a random sputter/misfire that was only really noticeable at idle, more so with a mount insert installed. Approaching my winter tire changeover and oil change I had planned to do this past weekend I ordered some maintenance stuff from ECS (filters, spark plugs, spare coil just in case). I had recently got a CEL with a "cylinder 2 misfire" code. I cleared it and it came back within a couple of days, again cylinder 2. Great, nice and easy..Sorta.
Picked up my parcel from the WA post office and installed the coil right there to see if it would go away. And...... NOT. Not worried at this point as I figured the plugs were just toast from so much hard driving for the past 40k kms. Got her into the shop last night and did my tire changeover, oil change, put the factory coil back in and changed the plugs. Here is what I found hiding in cylinder #2,
The car runs so smooth. It's like I found another 10hp lol. Definitely recommend changing up the plugs if tuned and putting kms or miles on the car. With the added power I'm guessing the life span drops off quickly.
I have a 01 wolfsburg jetta with aw engine code .. I have replaced and gaped spark plugs all 4 coils , DV. As well as fuel filter . Sometimes it runs fine . It misfire at random times most often at WOT. ..and I've noticed almost always when fuel level is low.. installed a boost gauge .. after disconnecting battery to reset ecu it boosts 10psi and runs strong .. however 1 or 2 WOT and it will misfire and then I won't boost over 4-5 PSI .. worst of all I get no CEL not even blinking .. I have also located a leak in the brake booster line . Does this affect it at all? ..
View 2 RepliesThrew a random CEL, took the car to Pep Boys, Code P0036 was found "Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2. What I should do and risks involved if I do not take care of it soon?
View 3 RepliesI finally decided to take my car in to the dealership for this random split second hesitation that mostly happens in first gear. I have 8600 miles on the car and it has done it since the day I bought it. I thought it might have been compressor related from running the AC. I have tried driving with no AC and ESP off and it still does it.
So I take it in and they decided to let the new guy work on my car. I take him on a ride (AC and ESP off) and sure enough it does it nice and strong for him to feel it. I was happy so we went back to the dealership and they gave me a 2.slow rental and I was on my way. 24 hours later they call and tell me, "Ron we believe it might be your throttle body so we're waiting on the regional master tech to get his opinion before we put a $750 part on your car".
I'm like "ok, whatever you say, just call me tomorrow with an update because I don't want it back till it's fixed". They call me the next day to inform me that my brake light switch was faulty ($10.25), they replaced my wiper blades, adjusted my wiper arms and the car was ready to be picked up.
Now that I have it back I can say driving it now that it's acting normal is an adjustment. My mind expect that hiccup but it doesn't happen, at least not most of the time. I'm not completely convinced that this hesitation is gone because I think I felt it happen once yesterday. Time will tell... In the mean time it is 95% cured.
I have noticed as it gets colder, my car rattles more. I keep hearing random rattles, mainly in the door panels. Looking for remedy apart from going up to the dealership?
View 5 RepliesHaving to parallel park a LOT, I coded the car (using VCDS) to do mirror dip on reverse. Has saved me multiple times from curbing my right rear wheel (even more, anyway).
However, when I pull away, the mirror returns from dip to random heights. Sometimes it's a bit higher, sometimes lower, sometimes facing the sky.
It's then pretty dangerous when I check the right mirror (to merge) and realize I can't see the cars behind/to-the-side.
How to fix this?
. Use a different control module?
. I thought about wiring a resistor into the "up" motor motion, so that it slows down on return, and ends up in a lower position.
. Physically block the motor somehow so that it stops at the right height.
I was going to post this in the technical forum, but going by the amount of replies, this forum seems to have much more traffic. Anyway, my car has random long crank issues. It usually happens when it is really cold or if the car has sat for a day or more. I will have to hold the key over for 5+ seconds, but as soon as I turn the key back and crank again, it fires right up.
I have replaced the battery and tested it and the alternator, replaced the CTS (green top), not that it's relevant, but I just replaced the thermostat, housing and all seals, no CEL. Any other things I can check?
I have a 1974 Mercedes 280 C. Two of the power windows no longer work...the driver rear (stuck down) and the passenger front (stuck up). The problem started with middle console switches...the right bank (passenger controls) the small chrome surrounding piece popped off and caused the switches to get stuck then fall apart. I was trying to put them back together and got a spark...ooops car was on and i was using metal tweezers...then the rear driver side no longer worked??? others work. Do the switches need to be replaced or is it a bigger electrical problem. Checked fuses...all fine.
View 2 RepliesI just picked up a pure white 4 doors GTI SE last week. I noticed today that the rear windows don't go all the way down.
View 3 RepliesI am really an mk4 guy but my wife just got a new 2010 golf and we are both too lazy to get out the manual and read. how do you open the windows using the key fob???
View 18 Replies